New Delhi, India Report of what it's like to live there - 05/18/13
Personal Experiences from New Delhi, India
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, Islamabad, Geneva, Mumbai.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
New York - direct flight was about 18 hours.
3. How long have you lived here?
May 2009 - June 2011
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government - U.S. Embassy
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing varies - everything from sprawling lawns in Chanakyapuri, to walled compounds, to newer apartment buildings. Commute time varies; the morning commute before 8 a.m. is decent; the evening commute is a mysterious creature. Wedding season means night traffic is a nightmare. Always carry a book to read in the car :). If you can afford it, hire a good local driver. The traffic is not worth the aggravation. Aggressive panhandlers target western auto drivers.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
High quality things can be expensive. You can get organic farm goods delivered to your door at a premium. Western cleaning products and groceries are available but expensive. Local fruits and vegetables are affordable in season but must be cleaned and cooked throughly. Surprisingly cheap are pumpkins and other gourd vegetables.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Between the embassy and the local markets, we felt well stocked. Electronic items are marked up about 150%.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Food is yummy, unless you love salads, which is like playing Russian roulette. Beef and pork products are hard to come by. KFC has no biscuits. But local Kati rolls, the Indian twist on McDonald's and pizza are fun.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Dengue abounds, especially in Fall. Microbes cause serious GI issues for most people. Delhi's dirty secret: it is one of the sickest embassies in the world because of persistent lung and GI issues. Flies and other insects congregate near neighborhood garbage dumps.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Via the embassy. Most Indians use DHL or Blue Dart because they do not trust local mail for packages.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Good domestic help is available; higher quality costs more money. Labor is very segregated because of caste concerns, so your cook will likely not touch your bathroom or garbage. As a result, most Delhi upper-middle-class families seems to employ an army of part-time local help.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, but the good ones with hygienic facilities are expensive. You can run at Nehru Park and Lodi gardens if you aren't afraid of feral dogs and if you watch the uneven trails carefully. It's best to run with a buddy.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
No problems at all.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes, and affordable. More likely to have sitcoms and reality shows, rather than intense American drama. Honestly, there is so much to do that just sitting in front of the TV is rare.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You can get around in this former British colony with only English, but learning local polite greetings helps. If you take trains and travel in north India, Hindi helps, but it isn't necessary.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
This is not a wheelchair-accessible city.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Local trains, yes. You can travel around India fairly cheaply on Indian railways, provided you go first class (still affordable, make reservations early). Buses -- NO! They are not safe for women. Taxis are hit and miss.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
A sedan is fine in Delhi. Make sure it has good a/c and air filtration before you come. Japanese makes are easier to service. SUVs are hard to park and maneuver through the tiny Delhi alleys, but they are great for drives outside the city.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. Cost is comparable to the US, speed is up to 2MB as of 2011, with no caps on downloads. Just fast enough to stream SD video. Frequent power cuts are a big problem. Most houses have back-up generators, but there is a gap of a few seconds before they kick in. Invest in UPS units for all of your electronics. Don't bother to reset the clocks on your stove or microwave: it's going to happen almost daily in the summer.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
They are ubiquitous. Coverage is good, but data speeds aren't great.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
It is, but you have to do your homework and find the right people.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Hmm, this varies, but visas are tough to get.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
You don't need to go full on sari/shalwar kameez, but shorts won't work. Loose linens that cover shoulders and have sleeves are wise. The dress code at work is oppressively formal, given the weather in summer.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
For women, yes. Cabs aren't always safe, walking around is often an invitation to be groped (even if you are all covered up). Women should not take buses, but the all-female metro cars are okay. In markets, be aware of pickpockets, adulterated food, bottled water, and pickpockets. Tourism scams abound. Please arrange travel with reputable tour companies in advance. There can be communal and terrorist threats. Spontaneous demonstrations related to political causes are common. Traffic accidents and toll plazas with gun-wielding thugs happen. Delhi police treat women badly, both locals and expats. Please stay in touch with your local embassy. When socializing at night, best do it in large groups in the the more elite and western pubs and bars.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Respiratory and GI issues abound. Dengue is real, as are random outbreaks of things like scarlet fever. The Max hospitals are recommended by most western embassies, but medical care can be rough on women. Medical practiioners can be brutal while shoving needles into your arm, and won't talk to a female patient about her allergies etc. Standard medical banter: "Excuse me, what are you putting into my arms?" Curt response from medical tech with no name tag: "Medicine." If you have a medical emergency, please take a trusted companion with you. Doctors and teachers are treated like gods here; their authority is final. But there is no malpractice risk here, and mistakes often abound. If you are pregnant, medevac! There are way too many miscarriages and hushed-up birth defects.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Very unhealthy, especially for young children, during winter when dung, garbage, and everything else is burnt for warmth, and smog traps it within Delhi. You won't see the blue sky for a couple of months. The open garbage dumps and stagnant sewage doesn't help.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Dry and oven hot in summer, pleasant in winter (if you are breathing purified air in your car). November and February are gorgeous. Monsoon isn't as severe here as in Mumbai, but when it rains, traffic is a nightmare. Also, the weather lends itself to all sorts of antibiotic-immune super bugs. Hello, scarlet fever, cholera, dengue,, etc.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The American school is top notch and is a huge attraction for expats serving here.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, most expats hire nannies and use embassy preschools.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, there is a well-developed Little League program, and many school-associated sports leagues.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge. In addition to embassies, the NGO community is sprawling.
2. Morale among expats:
Good morale.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Delhi folks are social in a different way than Mumbai folks. You need to cultivate people, and throwing a good dinner party and learning to entertain is important. The various festivals and cultural events are a godsend. People will often invite you to parties away from Delhi at their farm houses, so it isn't as simple as going to a bar and going dancing, On most days, and weekends, you will actually have more invites than you can realistically attend. Bookshops and cafes are great places to hang out.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It is a great city for families (especially if you have hardy kids with strong lungs and digestive systems). It is fun for couples (Delhi couples love socializing with other couples) but tougher for singles. Dating is common, but hush-hush and frowned upon. If you are willing to date casually, without expecting it to evolve into a serious relationship, you are likely to enjoy it more.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Gay life exists, but it is super-underground. Be aware that men holding hands with each other aren't gay in this culture. People are very rough on lesbians. There is a small but supportive gay scene, and they are doing more to win political and civil rights, but this is a conservative culture.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes. Americans, except for Caucasian Americans, learn to develop a thick skin. Indians (sadly) treat white people better than they treat each other. Other ethnicities are treated as a curiosity, at best. This is a country where both male and female stars endorse bleaching and fairness products. You will find women who excel in every field of Delhi society, however violence towards women, molestation, rape, and harassment are a daily reality. Indians are also very weight conscious (the former Miss India, Aishwarya Rai, was skewered in the press for taking too long to lose weight after her pregnancy), so if you are overweight, steel yourself for some harsh comments and humor. Words to identify people of various races and ethnicities that would shock an American are fairly common here.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Excellent white-water rafting on the upper Ganges; touring temples, palaces; zip-lining through old forests; crowded bustling markets; warm people; excellent shopping for jewelry, fabric, furniture; great hub for Regional travel
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Travel. Take art, dance, and music classes. Enjoy great shopping for art, fabrics, and furniture. Attend cultural activities and concerts affiliated with embassies.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Art, crafts, fabrics, furniture, gems, books -- India is a shopping paradise. Plus: regional travel.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Vivid culture, exciting travel, great shopping.
11. Can you save money?
Yes, if you don't drink alcohol at the five-star hotels.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes. Especially for the great school for the kids. But I would take specific health precautions.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Ideas of feminism and privacy.
3. But don't forget your:
sense of adventure and thick skin. Also, your breathable fabrics.
4. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
