New Delhi, India Report of what it's like to live there - 08/14/13
Personal Experiences from New Delhi, India
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. We've also lived in Lithuania, Bulgaria, Bangladesh, Germany, Russia, and Switzerland.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
From New York, you can get a non-stop flight (Newark to New Delhi) that takes 12 hours or so.
3. How long have you lived here?
We arrived in January 2013.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
We have a house with a very small yard. It's not a design that Westerners would really like, but it's a nice little house. We have one extra bedroom. If you are with the USG and you are on the compound, your housing will be very, very tight. No one seems to have an extra bedroom on the compound, for instance. Since we have a big dog, I'm glad to have a walled yard. She gets a little more freedom. And since there are stray dogs everywhere, I'm glad I don't have to walk her out on the streets. Those who do walk their dogs on the streets say that they often have to stomp their feet loudly at stray dogs to get them to move along and/or threaten them with a big stick that they always carry. I'd hate that.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Depends if you want local things or specialty items. At the commissary, prices are high. At the local markets, prices are very low. Imported cheeses and other items are extremely high. Like US$20 for cheese. Things like that.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
A job. I'd ship myself a job :-) Otherwise, I'm good. I always bring maple syrup, but other than that, I can get just about anything here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Anything you could want, but no beef at any of them. Prices are fine. Normal. Probably a little lower than worldwide prices.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes. And they have dengue fever and malaria. We do not take anti malarial medicine here and that's not a great threat, but dengue is always around.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Through our Embassy. It's expensive to send. More than at other posts.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
I'm told we pay at the high end of normal and I pay US$300 per month for a woman to work full time cleaning and cooking and running errands. She also takes care of my dog. Most Indians are afraid of dogs, so I'm glad we found someone who gets along well with mine and cares for him very well.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes. At the American compound for USG people in New Delhi. Also the school let's families use some facilities, I think.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I don't use a credit card here. I use cash only. I use the ATM at the U.S. Embassy. I haven't had any trouble. I wouldn't want to use one anywhere else though.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Cable isn't very interesting, but it's there. Some movies. Indian news, and I guess CNN and BBC. The usual.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You don't need any, but isn't it always nice to know a few polite phrases? No mater where you are, I find that's true.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
A lot. It's not a new, planned city. It's crumbly and bockety and if you were not sure of foot, or if you were in a wheelchair, or blind and trying to find your way around, you'd have nothing but trouble.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Not for girls or women. Taxis are pretty safe. There are preffered companies.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Has to be right-hand drive. We had to buy one here. We got a Toyota car that's sort of a van, but more like a car. It seats 7, but has regular car doors, not sliding van types. This car is very popular here (Toyota Innova).
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
High speed internet is supposedly available in some places. Not at my house. It's snail-slow. Frustrating. Awful, really. But some people have just mildly slow Internet.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
They are easy to get and very cheap.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No. Just lots of hoops to jump through.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Adequate. Not great. But they make house calls, and I love that. I hear there is no acceptable kennel. I hired a housekeeper and part of her job description is pet care while we are away. She watched my dog all summer long.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
I think I've already answered this question. A resounding NO to employment opportunities.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
If I could get a job, I might be able to answer this question.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
For women. An unusually high rate of rape, and extremely violent rape at that. I cannot let my teen daughter take public transportation or go anywhere alone. It's easier for guys.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Air quality is bad. Dengue fever happens. Otherwise, it's fine. If you are USG, the health unit is good.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Hot in summer so though it's cleaner in summer, it's not nice to be outside. In the winter it's very unhealthy and smells just awful, all the time. If you have asthma or other breathing issues, think long and hard before committing to New Delhi. I have this sort of low grade throat clearing going on all the time in New Delhi.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot in summer, and humid and rainy. In winter, it's nice and cool actually. Too bad the air smells so awful, because if it didn't smell so bad, you'd want to be outside all the time in the winter.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
American Embassy School. We came here for the school. It's not perfect and some people go a little crazy with their glowing about the school, but it is absolutely a very good school. One of the best we've had yet.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
If you are USG, there's a preschool on the compound. I think AES has one also. Most people have live-in child minders.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
AES has excellent sports offerings. My son plays both softball and baseball (competitive, traveling baseball teams are rare in the Foreign Service). My daughter is on track and field. This is the first school we've had that's offered track and field. Usually it's just running. My kids are very happy.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Big.
2. Morale among expats:
Not among trailing spouses who want to work. Work is the problem. You sit around and wait for a decent job to be advertised and do silly things while you wait just to kill time.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Plenty if you are interested.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I imagine so. I am in a family, so from my perspective it's good. The only problem is that while my husband has good work (we travel with his job) and my kids have a great school, there are zero decent jobs for me. So if you like to be at home or are happy finding non working things to do, it's a great post for families. If you find that without decent work you cannot be happy, then this might be a nightmare post for you. You'd think a mega mission like this would have options. Nope. Really, really horrible work opportunities for spouses here.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Against women. Absolutely. It's oppressive for women.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
I love to take photos. I've had wonderful, colorful, vibrant opportunities here.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Tons. This is a great tourism destination and millions come here to enjoy what India has to offer. You'll never run out of things to do.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Endless. Fabric, jewelry, furniture, ... Anything at all that you can imagine, and some things you haven't even thought of yet.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The culture is non-stop, the colors, the interesting music, food, film, etc. If you like to take photos, the opportunities are endless. If you are interested in history, India is great about displaying it for you. If you feel you need house staff, you can afford it here. The cost of child care is very low (but don't expect Western style child care either -- you do get what you pay for in some respects).
11. Can you save money?
Yes.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No. Not having a job is horrible.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Hope of employment.
3. But don't forget your:
Camera. It's gorgeous!
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
City of Djinns.
