New Delhi, India Report of what it's like to live there - 02/14/17
Personal Experiences from New Delhi, India
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Third post, after Paris and Vienna.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC. There's no direct flight, so it's either the long haul to Newark or a stopover in Europe somewhere - 16+ hours of flying.
3. How long have you lived here?
Lived there for 2 yrs, 2014-2016.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Spouse, diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
There are 2 compounds and various neighborhoods with on-economy housing. We lived on the smaller Bhagwan Das compound and LOVED IT. It's farther away from where most others live, but it has staff quarters onsite and the community was amazing. Commute to embassy was 15 mins in no traffic (ha!), anywhere from 30-60 mins in rush hour on the way home.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Food in general is cheap, but you will pay more for "American" things or higher quality things. Embassy has a fairly large commissary, and Amazon will fill in the gaps (pouch only though).
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
You can find anything you need, and have the rest shipped! But because it's pouch only, I would advise shipping any special liquid items you need.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
You will get tired of curry. There are 5 star hotels with fancy restaurants and different cuisines, tons of mid-range restaurants, even a decent BBQ place - you can find pretty much anything. Almost anything can be delivered to your house, including McDonalds - but no beef burgers!!
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
We had ants, but nothing too weird inside. Mosquitoes outside are a major issue.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Pouch only.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is plentiful and very inexpensive, of varying degrees of quality. Not unusual for people to have a cook, nanny, gardener and driver!
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Gym available through the American club at the embassy.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Cash is widely used, and there is a Bank of America at the embassy that can cash US checks for rupees. We did not have an Indian bank account. There's also an ATM at post.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English is widely used. Hindi is helpful, but you will be fine without it.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. General infrastructure is not great.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis (including Uber) are available and cheap - maybe not as safe for a woman alone at night. Tuk Tuks widely available and cheap, definitely used all the time, but like riding down the highway with no rules in a tin can! The lack of general road safety cannot be overstated ;-)
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Can't bring a car unless it is right-side driving - everyone gets a car there. It will get dinged up and damaged, but repairs are cheap.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet was ok - ours was often not very fast. Dealing with internet company was painful.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Local provider with my own unlocked iPhone - dirt cheap!
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Lots of jobs at the embassy. Did not hear of any on the economy - not really worth it as you'll be paid in rupees at local rates!
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Tons.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Women should generally cover shoulders and legs. You will sweat through every item of clothing you own.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
I felt very safe. But women in general have to be careful.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Other than air quality, biggest concerns are dengue and other infectious tropical diseases. No malaria in Delhi itself, but that is a concern if you travel south. Onsite embassy Health Unit was a lifesaver. Oh, and you will get Delhi Belly on a regular basis. Hospitals are iffy - there are modern ones, but I would be very concerned about anti-infection practices. Most medical issues out of the health unit's purview will mean a medical evacuation to Singapore.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
I cannot overstate how bad the air quality is. It is horrendous. Please check the daily AQI readings from the embassy- Los Angeles on a bad day is around 60, and Delhi is routinely 200+, and in the 400-500+ range in the winter. Everything outside is covered in black soot. Many people get sick. We all wore masks and ran air purifiers in every room. I sealed off windows with tape. It is BAD.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
The air quality will be very hard on you.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Extreme dry heat from March - July, then extreme heat and monsoon through August/September, then it starts cooling off and will be cold from Nov (40s-50s) until February. There are exactly two weeks of pleasant weather and decent air in October and February.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Great schools and several choices. The American School is very highly rated.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Preschool onsite at the embassy was great! Other choices in the residential areas.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Big tight-knit group. We loved it. Lots of other expats outside the mission.
2. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I think this would be a tough place for LGBT expats because of the local culture, especially if you're single.
3. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes. Women are still not quite equals. But also depends largely on caste/status and where you are - dynamic is different in the south.
4. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Travel is unique but difficult throughout India - infrastructure is not great. Travel to other places in Asia was amazing!
5. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Textiles are fantastic! And jewelry!
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I wish I grasped just how bad the air quality was going to be, and how depressing it would make our day to day lives!
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Hmmm. Not sure. Air quality aside, it was a great adventure. But hard to see my kids breathing that crap every day and not feel extreme guilt.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Heavy winter clothes, fear of squatty pottys, dislike of spicy food.
4. But don't forget your:
Sense of humor and patience!
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The White Tiger.
