New Delhi, India Report of what it's like to live there - 10/22/17
Personal Experiences from New Delhi, India
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Pretoria, Jakarta, and four others.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC. Fly to NYC, then 16 hours direct flight to New Delhi.
3. How long have you lived here?
One year and a half.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
We are pleased with housing. It's in a safe and green neighborhood, with 15 minutes drive to work. There are a lot of leased properties in which occupants complain about mold, old bathrooms and kitchens, and distance from the Embassy. The two government compounds are decent, but a bit dark inside. One compound is where the embassy is located and that will become a construction site once the new embassy annex construction starts. I would not like to live there, as the air is enough polluted without the construction dust and noise.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Horrible...difficult to find. New Delhi does not have western-style supermarkets, unless you drive outside of the city. Shopping consists of small mini-markets with pilled up goods from the floor to the ceiling. They also sell fresh produce that is not the best quality. There are larger fresh produce open markets in only certain areas of the town, where produce are half a price. It's a good option if you do not mind the filthiness around you.
There is well-stocked embassy commissary, but prices are high. Many embassy employees shop online. There are organic shops (online) as well, but I would not trust an "organic" label on anything in India.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Crackers of all kinds. Indian snacks are all masala spiced. Otherwise - we always try to live of locally available goods.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Most restaurants are "all in one" food type. You can get in same restaurant Indian food, Mexican food, Chinese...The noise (loud music) is often the main reason for not going out, together with not properly washed/bleached groceries. Service is also not great.
There are many online stores to order your groceries. They are pretty good and deliveries are fast.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
There are rats in yards and above the ceiling areas, ants, roaches, termites
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We receive mail and packages via pouch. There is no Diplomatic Post Office (DPO) in Delhi. For outgoing packages we have to use the American Association service at a very high cost. Local postal mail has own complications and bureaucracy.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is readily available, but good help is not. You have to try many before you find good and honest help. The moment you arrive, people will be knocking on your door. Most people have all-rounders (does all for you: cooking, cleaning, laundry), and others have separate cooks, laundry person, cleaning person, gardener, sweeper, driver. A contract is a must for all hired help. Most people have drivers as well as drivers in India are mostly without legal driving licenses and they do not follow traffic rules. You can get a local driving license if you opt for that.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is a gym at the Embassy, part of American Employee Association ACSA. Free for members of ACSA (membership cost vary, and starts at $375 /person/year).
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Most credit cards are accepted in restaurants and larger shops, but you will need cash for travel. ATMs are everywhere.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Christian, Muslim, Hindu, Jewish.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None. You can manage with English.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Absolutely. This is not a place for a person with any disability.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Local buses - available but not safe for many reason (filthy). The Metro system is great and it's growing. It's clean and on time. There is airport metro line as well. Cost of Metro per ride: $0.35.
Taxis are available everywhere and they are nor pricey. You always have to negotiate the price, including if you will demand AC in a car. In monsoon season they are often infested with mosquitoes, so wear a lot of bug spray. Tuk-Tuks are everywhere as well.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Import of vehicles with left hand drive is not permitted.You have to get one locally. It's very popular to drive 4 wheel drive. There is 10 year age limit for diesel cars (resale consideration), and 15 year age limit for petrol. There have been recent reports of car burglaries by local gangs, where they force you to get out of the car by tearing your tires and steal your purse and other belongings from the car.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, but the speed varies and it's not stable. The embassy helps with internet installation upon your arrival.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Few local plans are available with different data usage. It's not pricey.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
There are many vets, but some pet owners complain about the quality of service. Due to many toxins in soils and water, rat and other pest poisons, pets get sick very often. No quarantine is needed upon arrival.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Most EFMs rely on embassy employment, which is almost impossible to get with the hiring freeze. Some of them start their own businesses but there are many regulations in regards to owning the business and being employed on a local market (extremely hard). The taxation system does not work in a favor for local employment as well.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Many...English teaching or girls empowerment, for example.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Local formal dress for woman at the official functions, and casual at work. Men at work: mostly shirt and tie. All depends on the chief of mission. The previous ambassador had a rule that from April through September (hot months) - tie is not required.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Women walking alone after dark is still a concern. As many people sleep in bushes or on a side of the street, you have to be aware of their presence and keep your distance.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Many. India is dirty and polluted. "Delhi belly" is very common: we all have it at least once a month. Sinus infections and asthma are also very common due to the high pollution. Dengue, malaria, chikungunya and Zika are also common for New Delhi. The medical unit is very busy with medical evacuations as local doctors and hospitals are not deemed adequate.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The worst air we have ever experienced! Last year pollution level was over 1,400 PM2.5 the day after Diwali, and stayed at levels over 500 for at least 2 weeks. For comparison: New York PM2.5 is usually around 30. Winter time is the worst time for pollution as people burn anything to warm themselves (tires, leaves, garbage). In addition, farmers are burning crops in surrounding areas of Delhi. We are restricted in outdoor activities (walking, gardening, jogging, tennis, soccer, baseball....) during those months, and then again during the dengue season. Therefore gaining weight is a "popular activity".
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Bleaching your vegetables, fruit, eggs in a chlorine solution for 30 minutes up to 2 hours is a must. Do not eat salad or any uncooked produce if you do not know where it came from and who served you.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Climate is not your best friend in New Delhi: It's hot (extreme heat from 105 - 115 F) from April through June, followed by the monsoon season (hot and humid) from July - mid September, followed by pollution and cooler weather through mid February. The nicest time is from mid February - end of March.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The American International School is across from the American embassy and compound. There is also a British school and a French school.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Some, but limited.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, and yes.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
The expatriate community is community is large. I am not a part of it.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
It's not easy. There are diplomatic functions at various embassies very often. There are women's clubs as well, but most members are rich Indian woman.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Probably good for couples. Not so good for families. Pollution and disease level, lack of outdoor activities are all major factors to consider.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Genders are not equal in eyes of most Indians.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
India offers very exciting travel, even though most of the time it's hard to get to places. Hindu temples, pagodas, Mogul fortresses and residences, the Himalayas and Darjeeling are most wonderful sites you can visit.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
You get a chance to meet some exceptional local people; airport is great and it offers flights to all over the country and the world.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
You cannot ever know everything. Living and learning is the key. The most shocking (and I still cannot understand the reason behind it) is the lack of "normal" supermarkets.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Heavy winter gear, expectations..
4. But don't forget your:
Face mask(s), inhalers, clean air, skin moisturizers, mosquito repellents.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Piku movie (perfect example about the culture), many books by Indian authors.
