New Delhi, India Report of what it's like to live there - 03/11/08

Personal Experiences from New Delhi, India

New Delhi, India 03/11/08

Background:

1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?

No, I've also lived in Sydney, Canberra, Sofia, and Lisbon.

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2. How long have you lived here?

9 months.

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3. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:

From the U.S. we stopped over in England and then took British Airways to Delhi - from there it was around 7 and 1/2 hours.

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4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?

I am affiliated with the U.S. government.

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Housing, Groceries & Food:

1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?

Government housing is getting smaller and smaller if you live off post. The rent for housing is getting higher every month and only big companies can pay the ridiculous rents that landlords charge.

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2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?

The cost of groceries is going up all the time. If you eat only Indian food and go to the local markets, food is very cheap. Lots of expats want organic produce because of the high use of pesticides here so this can be very expensive. All imported food is twice as high as back home. The big expense here is dog food and washing detergent.

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3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?

Dog food, washing detergent and toilet paper.

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4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?

All the old favourites are here. McDonalds, though no burgers. KFC is just like home and Pizza Hut. They do have wonderful restaurants here some of which are cheap but most are quite expensive.

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Daily Life:

1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?

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2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?

Very easy to find help, just ask other expats for good recommendations. You can't live here without getting someone and it's one of the few places in the world where it won't cost you too much.

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3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?

Not many stores take credit cards especially the smaller ones. We now have many shopping malls and in these credit cards don't always work for some reason. ATMs are common in the expat communities.

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4. What English-language religious services are available locally?

Not many I'm afraid. There is a church run out of the British School every Sunday that is for all denominations.

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5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?

Many newspapers are available as are magazines. Local ones are very cheap. Overseas papers are here also but come with a hefty price. Cable TV is pretty good, we have lots of channels in english including HBO and its very cheap around US$10.00 a month.

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6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?

It's good to know a little but most people speak some English in all the shops I've gone to.

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7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?

There are not many sidewalks here and people with physical disabilities would find it hard at most of the monuments as there are usually no ramps. This is starting to improve though as things are slowly changing as they are getting ready for the Commonwealth games in 2010.

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Transportation:

1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?

Trains are affordable and an experience everyone should have while living here. Buses, I don't know anyone that has been on one. They are very crowded and dangerous. They are well known here for killing pedestrians. Taxis are cheap and are everywhere.

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2. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?

They drive on the left just like in England.

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3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?

I would not bring a car from the U.S. as the steering wheel is on the wrong side and this could be very dangerous here. Lack of parts would be a big problem too. The bigger the car, the better. Whatever car you have by the time you leave, it will be covered in dents. The driving is the worst I have ever seen.

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Phone & Internet:

1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?

Yes, again cheaper that at home.

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2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?

There are many different options here so just go with the one that suits you.

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3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?

We use Skype right now; it is very cheap indeed.

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Pets:

1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?

The vets are not what you are used to back home but there are some good ones. I have not heard of many kennels; people usually get their staff to look after their pets. NOTE: If you are coming with a dog or cat and they might need an operation - bring one of those Elizabethan collars with you to stop them biting the operated area.

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Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:

1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?

Few and far between. There are lots of NGOs here but the pay is very small.

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2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?

Men tend to go to work in suits although in summer they wear short sleeve shirts. Nobody wears shorts here and you will get stared at if you do. In shopping malls and expat areas the women can wear Western style clothes. But in the markets you get less attention if you wear the local dress.

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Health & Safety:

1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?

Very unhealthy; I have never seen pollution like it. Also this is basically a desert, so there is dust everywhere. Houses get very dirty with a black dust in some areas.

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2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.

No big concerns with terrorits. Only being a woman here is hard. You get stared at and felt sometimes. You can't walk on your own in a lot of areas and teenage girls have it hard here. They have to be in groups at all times.

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3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?

Being with the government we get to use certain doctors. But other people tell me there are very good doctors here and some of the hospitals are excellent.

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4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?

It was still a shock to find out how cold it gets in Delhi in the winter. The mornings were very cold, warmed up during the day then got much colder at night. So bring clothes that you can layer. The summer is well, HOT!

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Schools & Children:

1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?

The American School (AES) is excellent and that is why most people come here. My daughter who did not want to come here now wants to stay because she loves the school. It has lots of after school activities which is needed here as there is not much for teenagers to do otherwise.

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2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?

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3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?

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Expat Life:

1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?

Very large. You will never meet everyone here.

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2. Morale among expats:

Most of the time it's pretty good. We all have our good and bad days here in Delhi so it helps to have a friend.

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3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?

People tend to eat out a lot or have people over for dinner. There are many things to keep you busy, from the museums to art galleries, music nights etc.. Many theaters have movies shown in English.

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4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?

I think this is a great city for couples and singles. I am not sure I would come here with children because of the pollution. Smaller children get more out of the city than teenagers. Teenagers feel like they lose their freedom when they come here.

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5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?

There are many gay/lesbian expats living here.

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6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?

The different religions seem to get on pretty well here. Of course, again, prejudices against women are a big thing. You only have to read the Indian newspapers every day to see it. If you complain about something as a woman no one listens to you, another story if a man complians. As a woman you tend to lose confidence in yourself after a while.

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7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?

One of my favourite things to do is actually going shopping in Old Delhi. The many sights sounds and smells remind you how it once was. Visiting all the old monuments, there are so many; some not well kept though. Shopping is wonderful here if you find the right places and can get lots of bargins.

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8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?

Paper products are beautiful. You can get some wonderful pieces of furniture. One of the best buys are the textiles made up into tablecloths, napkins, and bedding.

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9. Can you save money?

We thought we would before we came but it's getting more expensive all the time. If you want to visit other places in India it can cost a fortune. Just be careful not to get carried away with the shopping and the foreign goods.

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Words of Wisdom:

1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?

Not sure. I do love it here, but health-wise I think I would really consider it very carefully before bringing children here.

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2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:

Your good clothes. The water you wash your clothes in here seems to wear out your clothes very quickly. Anything that you treasure. We didn't bring much but now wish I'd brought a lot less.

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3. But don't forget your:

Buy all the shoes and sandals before you come. Trainers are very expensive here.

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4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?

Twilight in Delhi by Ahmed Ali.

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5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?

Twilight in Delhi by Ahmed Ali.

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6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:

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7. Do you have any other comments?

People ask me if I like it here and I always say it like a love/hate relationship. I love it for many reasons, the colors, the people, the sights. Then I hate it at times, but I'm glad I did experience it all.

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