Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Report of what it's like to live there - 04/09/17
Personal Experiences from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
I lived in England and then in the U.S.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington DC was our home base. We flew DC to Boston to Hong Kong to Kuala Lumpur. It was about 30 hours with connections.
3. How long have you lived here?
About 9 months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
We are in a 3000 sq ft, 3-bedroom, 5-bathroom apartment in a high-rise building. We can walk to KLCC Park/Mall or Pavilion. Pretty much all apartment buildings that we've visited seem to have pools and gyms. They usually have two kitchens. We have a teeny "maid's quarters" (small closet) where we keep a second refrigerator and some storage containers. Traffic can be horrendous at times, Friday afternoon rush hour seems to gridlock the city, but most people we know have a 15-minute or less commute to work for their 1-2 mile drive.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Availability and cost are comparable. Some things are less expensive, and other items cost more. It tends to even out. You can easily find products from the US, UK, Australia and all over Asia. There are lots of grocery stores and markets. The Marks and Spencer store in the KLCC mall has a decent supply of gluten-free products.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
We found that most things we need are readily available. There is a KL Klubb-Lah Facebook group where people post to ask others where to find things if they need help sourcing something.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
You will be spoiled for choice in KL. There are many, many, many amazing restaurants here. People also use the foodpanda app for delivery. It's reliable, has lots of choices, and is very reasonably priced. There is everything from high end French restaurants where you can get five or more courses to really good Mexican, Thai, Chinese, Indian, Malay and western choices.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Carry mosquito spray and know the symptoms for dengue etc.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We use APO/DPO and it usually takes 1 to 2 weeks for letters and packages to arrive from Amazon, etc.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Help is readily available. People pay around 20RM an hour (about $4.50 an hour at the current exchange rate of 4.43). It's easy to get recommendations from friends who usually know an expat family who are transferring, or otherwise embassies often have a list or KL Klubb-Lah on Facebook is a good source to find someone. It's cheaper per hour if you hire someone full-time.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Most apartment buildings have a gym and a pool. There are running trails through KLCC park too. They can be busy, but it's a pretty place to run/walk. Sometimes there are fitness classes in the park, and there are multiple places to go for yoga or fitness classes in gyms. We sometimes have people offer yoga classes or personal training in our apartment gym.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
You can use credit cards in most places, although you will find more places here that are cash only versus back in the UK/US. ATMs are everywhere, but as is good practice everywhere, we tend to use the ones in high visibility places such as the nicer shopping malls, banks, and airport. Some embassies offer check cashing facilities.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
All kinds of services are available.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You don't need much at all and could happily survive without any language instruction. I was lucky enough to take a class that was a mix of learning some language and culture. It's nice to know pleasantries such as hello, please and thank you. I also find it handy to know numbers and phrases such as how much, can I have a discount, I would like (number) of them please. Sometimes a few little phrases will help get you a more reasonable price for something and you might not have to pay the tourist prices for everything.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Curbs tend to be high, cars sometimes park on sidewalks blocking them, and they're not always in the greatest condition, so I would say it's not the easiest place to live and get around in a wheelchair, but there are probably worse places too. Our apartment would be accessible to someone using a wheelchair. The only negative would be that if it rains, the way we go to pick up/drop off children at the school bus at our apartment would not be wheelchair accessible. There is also a ramp from the elevator down to our swimming pool and playground area, but the ramp would be far too steep for a person in a wheelchair to use without assistance from someone else.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
I've taken the train for touristy options and it's been fine. I've found it easy and pleasant to use Uber. They are extremely cheap, reliable and I feel safer in an Uber than a taxi as the app means your drive and driver are known and connected to you, the passenger. I've had many engaging conversations with Uber drivers and feel like I've gotten to know Malaysia from some of the drivers. I can't think of an Uber journey that's cost more than about 12RM (under $4) and I've been all over the city.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
You drive on the left, so we bought a car here. We have an SUV, but it's not necessary to have an SUV. I do feel very safe in it and parking hasn't been in a problem. If I go anywhere that I know parking is difficult to find, I just take an Uber. They seem to be resurfacing many of the main roads I use in KL. There are fewer potholes now, but you can get larger potholes in older sections of town. I've heard it's a difficult and lengthy process to bring in cars from outside and there are rules to be followed strictly such as no tinted windows. With so many people getting two- and three-year postings here, it's pretty easy to get a decent used car.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
We had social sponsors who helped set this up before we arrived. We weren't able to pay by credit card from the US, so our sponsors paid cash and we repaid them upon arrival. I've heard of even businesses complaining about difficulties getting phone lines/internet installed in a timely manner, so plan ahead and ask a work colleague to help get you set up ahead of time if you can. We paid for the most expensive/highest speed internet and it has fluctuations in service from time to time. We don't have cable and use Apple TV, but seem to be successful using this most of the time.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You need unlocked phones here to be able to put in a new sim card and get a local phone number. You can go to places such as My Maxis/Hotlink at KLCC and they will set it up for you. We pay $8-15 a month per person for our phones and we use them a lot. You can buy top up tickets at "mynews" outlets and add them to your phone when you need them. We use whatsapp, facetime and skype for many of our calls so that helps keep costs down.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
We don't have pets, but have several friends that brought pets here. I believe quarantine was required. One friend's cat was in need of significant vet care after coming out of quarantine but is doing okay now.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Many spouses are teachers or become employed family members working in their embassy. There are full and part-time jobs available. Not all spouses work. Some spouses telecommute from jobs they held before moving to KL.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
There are many opportunities because of all of the refugees here. There are opportunities through the SPCA and environmental groups as well as through the UN.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
It depends on your place of employment. Most places seem to be business casual to business. There are sometimes events at either the schools such as International School of Kuala Lumpur, or events related to diplomatic missions that require formal dress. Out and about, you will notice that most Malaysian Muslim women are covered, but wear colorful clothes and headscarfs rather than wearing a full burqa, although you do also see this from time to time. As the country also has Chinese and Indian citizens, you will see the same kinds of fashion here that you do anywhere else in the world. There are US/British/European/Japanese/Australian stores from very high end to high street in the malls here.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There are reports of purse snatchings and so you are always advised to keep your bags across your body and away from the road while out walking and not to carry/wear valuables. In your car, you're recommended to keep bags out of sight, especially if driving alone. Having said that though, I haven't felt unsafe here and I walk around a lot with other female friends during the day or with my husband and children in the early evenings. Keep your wits about you and stay alert as you would in any other city.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
In the nine months I've lived here, there have only been a few days of haze, but I've heard it can get really bad. I know that the International School of KL has air purifiers. They monitor readings and limit/end outdoor activities if the levels are too high. Medical care is decent with two good hospitals in the center of the city. Embassies will send people to Singapore if necessary for treatment beyond what is available here.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
It's been decent except for a couple of days over the last nine months. Most people have air purifiers.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
I'm not sure how seriously restaurant staff take it when you tell them about food allergies. I react to shellfish, so tend to order vegetarian a lot when out. Even doing this has no guarantees, because you'll often see vegetarian items that have scallops, shrimp, fish paste or shrimp paste as part of the ingredients. (How can this be?!!!) I took language classes for a while, and my Bahasa teacher told me that they don't have a word for "shellfish" here, so trying to explain to people who don't speak very good English that I can't eat anything with shrimp, crab, lobster or that type of thing can be a bit trying.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
You won't get winter blues here!
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It is hot and humid all year long. There are some days where it cools down at night, but you will live in air conditioning. If you want an escape from the heat, go to Cameron Highlands for a weekend where the temperatures are lovely during the day and you might even need a sweater for the evening! Cameron Highlands is a great place to go to see tea plantations such as Boh. It's about a 3 hour drive from KL mostly because the last section is on twisty mountain roads.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
We absolutely love the International School of Kuala Lumpur. https://www.iskl.edu.my/ My child had been in one school from age 3 until the end of Grade 5 before moving here, and they made her feel so welcome. She absolutely loves it and I know she won't want to leave when the time comes for us to transfer. The teachers are wonderful and often email with the children as they complete homework. They offer to work with students outside of classes on any material that is particularly challenging. There are lots of opportunities for arts, athletics, and after school activities in addition to having a robust academic program.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
This is on an individualized basis and worth reaching out to schools. ISKL is implementing plans to enrich and expand how they will serve special-needs children. They already have a team of learning specialists and always seem to be looking for ways to improve what they do.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are many preschools available and there are after school activities available at ISKL in ES, MS and HS.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
The expat community is large and morale seems to be excellent. There are bazaars and events put on by embassies and country community groups frequently and even more so during the lead up to Christmas.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Most apartment buildings have Facebook pages - join the group and go to group events. If your children are at school, join the PTA or attend informative sessions when you can during the school year to meet other parents. Connect with people through your place of employment.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I think this is a great place for families and couples. I can't really speak to single people, but I think it has every chance of being as good a place to be as any other city.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
This is a mostly Muslim country, but I've heard it's tolerant compared to other Muslim countries.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Malaysia has preferences for the majority group (Muslim Malaysians). This tends to be for employment, getting into colleges, costs of housing etc. The Chinese and Indian Malaysian populations seem to accept this, at least on the surface.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Having Air Asia has made our time here amazing. We've already been to Cambodia, Langkawi, Penang and Bangkok. We have plans to go to Myanmar and Vietnam coming up soon. It's also really easy to drive to other destinations such as Pulau Redang (great snorkeling) and Tioman (scuba diving). Getting scuba certified costs about RM 1200 per person ($270) and that includes having the classroom lessons, materials, pool lessons and the diving instructor along for four open water sessions.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Central Market sells locally made clothing and crafts, it also has a great food court with local, western and SE Asian food choices. Central Market is in a two-story air conditioned building and just outside it is a quick walk to Chinatown, more outdoor market stalls and some great bakeries and florists. KL Bird Park has been a favorite with visitors because although it's enclosed it feels quite spacious. There are places just a short drive outside of the city for hiking and swimming in outdoor waterfalls. There are many Chinese Temples, Hindu Shrines (the Batu Caves is one of the most sacred Hindu places outside of India). and Mosques to visit around the city. The Petronas Towers offer excellent views of the city. There are several bars/restaurants around KLCC park that offer lovely views of the city and Petronas Towers (SkyBar at Traders Hotel, Fuegos, and Helipad just to name a few).
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Yes, lots of opportunities to buy locally made things including batiked items, beautiful wood furniture, local art and antiques.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The great food, the mix of old and new, the people, and the opportunities to visit other countries all within two hours flying time from here.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
How cheap Air Asia and accommodation in very nice hotels/resorts in SE Asia are so we could have started planning trips sooner!
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter anything!
4. But don't forget your:
Patience... Malaysia goes at its own speed and there is a saying "Malaysia-Lah" that you'll hear people say when things don't quite go as planned. Smile about it and just enjoy all this beautiful country has to offer!
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
"Evening is the Whole Day" by Preeta Samarasan. Well worth a read.
