Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Report of what it's like to live there - 05/14/18
Personal Experiences from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes, this is my first time living abroad.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
New York area. The flight between NYC or DC and Kuala Lumpur averages 26-26 hours including connections. From the East Coast of the U.S. you'll usually fly west with one connection in Asia (Tokyo, Taipei, or Hong Kong). There are sometimes flights heading East that will connect in London. With a two leg journey, one flight will be about 12-14 hours and the other will be about 8.
3. How long have you lived here?
A little over a year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Assignment at the U.S. Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
The housing in KL is VERY nice. They are roomy apartments in modern high rises very close to the Embassy. Singles and childless couples are typically housed closer to the Embassy (an 8-15 minute walk depending on the building), families stay a bit farther away in apartments closer to the school (a 10-15 minute drive from the Embassy). There are some maintenance issues, but GSO is very responsive. Typical issues would be repairs needed on wall mounted AC units and leaky pipes under sinks. All buildings have on-site security provided by the building management, and they coordinate very well with the embassy. Apartments typically have pools, gyms, and common areas for BBQs. Many also have small playground areas for the children.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can get just about anything you want in KL. It's probably the easiest transition for an American moving overseas since you can find nearly every product you'd find back home, including familiar American brand (also tons of British and Australian brands). Groceries are certainly cheaper than what you would pay in the New York area. Australian and British imports can be pricier, but if you buy local brands you'll definitely be saving money. There are several very nice grocery stores within walking distance or a short drive from the housing area, and they're nicer than many grocery stores I've seen back home!
You can also get grocery delivery in KL. Jaya Grocer offers their own online service, but there are a couple of mobile apps including Happy Fresh where you can choose your store and then select your items. The items available are limited compared to what's in the store, but say you're hosting a game night and are too lazy to make the trip to the grocery store. You can order your snacks, paper cups and plates, and even alcohol online and have it delivered straight to your apartment.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
None, as I enjoy exploring local food options. The only thing I miss that is a bit hard to find here are frozen pre-made meals. You can also find American brands of shampoos, conditioners, cleaning products, etc. If there's a particular niche product you can't live without, definitely bring that with you but major brands tend to be available.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
When it comes to restaurants, KL is Little America. We have almost every chain here (McDonald's, KFC, Chili's, Outback Steakhouse, Olive Garden...the list goes on). Can't decide between Starbucks and Dunkin' Donuts? No problem! We have both!
Want to get outside of the American bubble? Just about every style of cuisine is available here. Western-style brunch spots, hip cafes, sushi, dim sum, Korean BBQ, Indian buffets, stylish tropical bungalows serving gourmet Thai, hole in the wall noodle joints, and delicious hawker stalls. The main thing to do in KL is eat, so get prepared to gain some weight or desperately try to sweat it all off. The hardest part is deciding where you're going to eat and what you're in the mood for.
We also have Food Panda, an online app where you can order from 100+ local restaurants. Pick a style of cuisine, choose your restaurant, and order a feast on your phone. You can link your credit card to the app and a driver will come straight to your apartment on his trusty moped to deliver your meal.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Some houses will have ants as they're par for the course in the tropics. A little ant bait usually does the trick!
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Embassy KL has a DPO, so all shipping and receiving is done on site. Everyone has a UPS one-click ship account and the mail room sticks the flat-rate shipping boxes.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
I don't have household help, but many of my colleagues do. Some have a dedicated part-time helper who comes every day (mainly those with children). Some singles and childless couples will share a helper so that each apartment has someone stopping by once or twice a week.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are gyms near to the embassy where some folks sign up for monthly memberships. These have all of the facilities you'd expect back home and host classes throughout the week (step, spin, kickboxing, pilates, etc). Most apartment buildings have on-site gyms with basic cardio and weight equipment, and there are a few fitness classes taught at the embassy.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes, you can absolutely use credit cards. They can be used in the malls, grocery stores, and restaurants. Some smaller shops and food stalls will be cash only. If you try to use your credit card to pay for something online through a Malaysian payment site it will be hit or miss on whether your card will be accepted. I've had success about 70% of the time.
ATMs are very common, most people will use the ones in the mall and they are safe to use. If you're working at the embassy, you can cash checks there to get local currency and avoid using ATMs entirely.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You don't need to know any Bahasa to get by here. The only word you need to know is Keluar so you can recognize the emergency exit signs in the malls. Almost everyone speaks at least moderate English, and many Malaysians are fluent.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Local transport is safe, efficient, and inexpensive. People generally do not take taxis around KL as they are very overpriced compared to Grab (Asia's version of Uber). Everyone has the Grab app on their phone, and like Uber you can link a credit card to the app so you don't have to worry about carrying around cash. It is often quicker to take a Grab around the city as opposed to navigating the train system, and it is also very inexpensive. Rides average $1.50 to $4.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Those without kids generally do not have cars. While they're nice to have if you want to explore outside of KL, they're definitely not necessary in the city. Everyone walks or takes Grab wherever they need to go. If you have kids you'll likely need a car to transport them and their equipment to/from school and sports.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, the internet speeds here are what you would expect in America. Internet/phone service is about $50/month and it can be installed before you arrive at post, to include your wi-fi router.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Everyone uses Maxis. You can either get a set monthly plan or pay as you go. You can get 10GB unlimited data for about $30 or $40 a month. Simply bring your American phone with you and swap out the sim card for the new Maxis one. When traveling in the region, Maxis offers a data/call/text plan for about $10 a day, or you can buy local sim cards at the airports once you reach your destination.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
There is a home for orphaned girls where many folks from the embassy community volunteer, and some folks are involved with the local SPCA.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
The embassy is business casual, and for formal government meetings, business dress is required. Formal or business dress would be required at diplomatic receptions.
In public places, Malaysians and expats are very casual (shorts, tees, sundresses). Think summer in DC or NY. While it is a Muslim majority country, no one expects women to cover up. Some restaurants and bars have dress codes so you'll have to have some smart cocktail wear and nice shoes. If you're visiting religious sites (temples, shrines, mosques) you should wear long, loose pants and cover your shoulders.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There is some petty crime, mostly purse snatching. If you're going to wear a purse where it on one shoulder so if it gets grabbed you can just let go of it easily (the snatchers come by on motor bikes). The best thing to do is to not carry a large bag at all, just bring whatever you need in a small clutch or wristlet that you can tuck up under your arm. Situational awareness is key, but the crime is similar to any major tourist city. There is virtually no violent crime, but most people don't walk alone at night in unpopulated areas just to be on the safe side.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Local medical care is excellent, the hospitals have English-speaking specialists and all of the equipment and facilities you would expect in a major American city. Malaysia is quickly becoming a medical tourism destinations. The sir is generally clean here, but every few years a significant haze may come through so those with respiratory conditions may choose to wear a mask or stay in doors if that happens. Tropical diseases like Zika and Dengue are present, and cases of Dengue have occurred among embassy personnel. Apartment buildings are regularly fumigated against mosquitoes, but it's always smart to wear insect repellent if you'll be outside in the evening, or when traveling to forested areas outside of the city.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Every few years Malaysia experiences a haze from crop burning in Indonesia. This has not happened in the year that I've been here, but there was a bad haze season a couple of years ago. The Embassy provides all apartments with air purifiers just in case. In general air quality is probably on par with many large American cities.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Food allergies can be tricky here, particularly fish and peanuts as they are used so frequently in Asian cuisine. Also, if you are a strict vegetarian or vegan, you may run into problems because there is fish sauce, meat broth, or bits of meat in almost everything. If you go to the nicer sit-down restaurants and cafes they can accommodate allergies and dietary restrictions and many have special menus for vegetarians. The only places I would recommend avoiding would be smaller local restaurants and hawker stalls.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Imagine the hottest, most humid day of the year in a place like Louisiana. Now imagine that every day of the year. There's supposedly a wet and dry season here but I think that's a vicious lie because it rains basically every day. Most of the storms last for 1 or 2 hours but when it rains it tends to rain hard, to the point of mild flooding in the streets. It also seems like the weather enjoys strategically victimizing you by having many rain/thunderstorms start up around 4pm on weekdays when you're getting ready to try to walk home from work or around 2pm on the weekends when you're just getting settled at the pool.
Be prepared to put your clothes through the stress of frequent washes and carry an umbrella with you at all times.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
This is a mid-sized embassy, and there are diplomatic missions from many other countries here as well. There are fewer expats from the oil and gas sector, but some are still here. Overall expats really enjoy KL. It is not the most interesting city as there are not many museums or cultural events, and very few historic sites. However, it is a very easy city with everyone speaking English, modern infrastructure and conveniences, easy transportation, and great dining and night life. Morale is high because people are thankful for the ease of KL and enjoy traveling throughout the region.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There is an expat group called Internations which hosts events throughout the city. Otherwise people meet for BBQs or pool parties, or go out for dinner and drinks/dancing.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
This city is great for everyone. Families love it because of the high quality schools and activities (bird park, aquarium, science center, etc). Singles and couples have a great time traveling frequently within and outside of Malaysia, and spending time among the hawker stalls and on pub street. There is something for everyone here.
4. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The number 1 highlight of Malaysia is traveling throughout the region. KL is the main AirAsia hub, so you can go almost anywhere on an inexpensive direct flight. In one year I have already been to 11 countries and still have several more to go. The most common trips are to Singapore, Bali, Thailand, and Cambodia. Visiting East Malaysia on the island of Borneo is also a must-do!
5. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Georgetown, Penang, is probably one of the most photogenic places you can visit, with great food, colonial row houses, and amazing street art. The islands off the east coast of peninsular Malaysia have white sand beaches and excellent snorkeling, and you can visit some of the largest cave systems in the world in the rainforest of Borneo in East Malaysia. For a quick day trip from KL, head south to the port city of Malacca for great food and vibrant, historic colonial flair.
6. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Malaysians seem to love malls more than almost anything else on earth. Some are a bit more "local" with less expensive stores, others are filled to the gills with global luxury brands and fine dining. Some have theme parks, almost all have movie theaters, you probably haven't spent this much time in a mall since you were in high school.
Central Market is a good place to go for handicrafts, batik, and antiques. The thing that is most unique to Malaysia would be the batik fabrics and pewter goods. Other than that many of the handicrafts are coming from other southeast Asian countries, and will look the same to what you may see in a market in Thailand, Cambodia, or Indonesia.
7. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The travel and convenience. You have almost all of the amenities you would expect in an American city with the added benefit of being able to be in Phuket in an hour.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I really didn't have to spend so much money buying toiletries and medicine to ship over here. Almost everything can be found on the local market, and if it's not the brand you're used to you can certainly find an acceptable local replacement.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely. If you've ever wanted to live the life of one of those digital nomad travel bloggers without actually quitting your job and losing your health benefits, come to Kuala Lumpur. There are so many holidays in Malaysia that you can travel the entire region on long weekends and never break into your vacation time. Feeling like a change of pace? Pop down to Singapore or up to Bangkok after work on Friday for the weekend, the flight will be under an hour and probably about $50 roundtrip.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothes and closed toe shoes.
4. But don't forget your:
Umbrella!
5. Do you have any other comments?
Kuala Lumpur is a cheaper, more relaxed version of Singapore. Your Instagram feed will look like that of a 20-something trust fund travel blogger, and your Facebook friends will constantly ask you if you're actually working.
