Kathmandu, Nepal Report of what it's like to live there - 01/11/10
Personal Experiences from Kathmandu, Nepal
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. I lived in Jerusalem, Split, Croatia, Dubai, UAE, Sibu, Romania, and Doha.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
US and Canada. Usually go through the Middle East and connect at NY or Washington.
3. How long have you lived here?
18 months
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
corporate job
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
We lived in a 10 bedroom home. It was large and functional. Many of the homes are Nepali style and don't make a lot of sense. We were lucky to have a home with a very large yard, but this is very rare. Also, a large home doesn't make a lot of sense in Nepal because of all the electricity issues.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Be prepared to drive all over for groceries. You can go to Bhat Bhatini but it can be pricey and selective. Plus, it was across the city for me and could take up to an hour to get there. I would get my veggies and fruits from the market. There is also an excellent meat shop (and really the only hygenic store)it is called Nina and Hagar. Only trust their meats. Everything else is scary. Blue Bird is also a good alternative to Bhat Bhatini
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Paper bags, toys (in Nepal toys are expensive and cheaply made).You will not like your choices for childrens' clothing. You can have your clothing made, but they cannot do jersey or stretch fabrics. You can have jeans made for children if you find a good jeans tailor.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
None. But my FAVORITE Chinese restaurant is at the Soaltee hotel. Roadhouse is also great. It is super cheap and fantastic.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
If you visit Chitwan in the summer the mosquitos can be a bother. We also found VERY large spiders in our home. We also had a rat or two.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Sometimes through slow boat. It took a while, but it arrived.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Excellent. We loved our didi and dai. It is cheap. We had our didis live with us, which worked out great. Our one didi came with us to our next posting. Nepalis are lovely people.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
I went to the 5 Star hotel. It was pretty lame, but sufficient. It was also expensive for what it was.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Try not to as much as possible.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes. There is a Mormon and Catholic church that I know of.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes. It is all cheap.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Not much. It is a tough language to learn.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
A lot. The roads are not even, nor are the sidewalks (if you are lucky enough to find one).Maneuvering throughout the city is no easy task.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
We never used local transport but taxis are your best bet.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
We had a very large van with a driver. We also used a motorcycle when it was just my husband and I.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. It cost about 70 dollars a month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Just use the regular Mero Mobile. It was fine.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Our dog survived. I don't think it is an optimal for a pet, but pets can survive. The vets also do house calls.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not too many. There is a large opportunity for humanitarian work.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Modest.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Terrible. This is especially true in the summer. The smog sits overhead and doesn't leave until the Monsoon begins in April.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Not really. The Maoists can be a pain and stir up problems. Usually crime is minor towards the expat community.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
You will become ill with something. It is inevitable. CWIC is about the only respectable clinic. We had several things done there and it was just fine.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The weather is pleasant in the spring, summer and fall. October is by far the best month. The pollution isn't that terrible and you can see snowcapped mountains. The winter can be rough and depressing (mainly January and February).Many of the homes are not equipped to deal with the cool weather. We had to wear parkas in the house. The electricity can be a problem. They often do load shedding during the winter months so even if you have a heater, you often can't use it. Sometimes you can use a gas heater but there is often a shortage of petrol as well.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Lincoln School is terrible. We had numerous problems with them. They don't respect the parent and believe that they know what is best for your kids. Be prepared for your kids to only explore the Liberal Arts. The school itself has many liberal ideals, which funnels into all the classrooms. The school will provide your children with an excellent school theater program but don't expect much in the maths and sciences. There are some teachers who have worked there for well over 10 years. When you meet them, you will wonder if they forgot what the real world looks like.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Lincoln did not provide me with much. Again, I felt like the school did not listen to my concerns as a parent and did whatever they thought was best. In the end, they were wrong, and I was right.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
The playgroup there is fantastic!I have made many lasting friendships from meeting weekly at each other's home. There is a warm, welcoming feel in the expat community.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Not really. You will rely on after school activities to keep your kids active. Phora is also a great place to get your kid's wiggles out.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Quite large. The people are unique, especially those who have lived there for more than 3 years. Most expats are with NGOs or with the State Dept.
2. Morale among expats:
It seemed great. Most people who can live through Nepal are easy-going and friendly.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There isn't much of a social life. You have to seek it out. We spent a lot of time together as a family, which I loved.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
As a family with kids, I loved it!It is difficult for children to find friends and can feel a little isolating.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes. At times we could not meet because of the recent bombing of a Catholic Church.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Thamel is a lot of fun and there are some fantastic, cheap restaurants. Chitwan is a must-see. Ride a few elephants and see the rhinos. Pokhara is beautiful if you can visit on a clear day. Some of the scenery is breathtaking. It is much easier to fly to these places but the Nepali landscape is absolutely gorgeous. Patan, Dubar Square and other parts of the city are fun to explore. Definitely get a whole new wardrobe. Visit Women's Planet (Dubar Square) and find yourself a jeans tailor.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Nepal has A LOT to offer. Many expats miss the opportunities that are in Nepal. Get a new wardrobe. I also had TONs of home decor things made from my home tailor. I got tons of jeans and jean skirts made from my jeans tailor. I had dining room chairs made and many other items of furniture. We also had some custom made Tibetian furniture made- Gorgeous. Also, Tibetian carpets are fabulous. I also found a jeweler who made me some amazing silver items. If you draw him a picture, pick a gem, he can make anything. Nepal has SO much to offer. You just have to have a good imagination and find the right people to do it.
9. Can you save money?
Definitely. There is no where to really spend large sums of cash.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No question. It changed my life.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
White clothing. It will not remain white using Nepali water.
3. But don't forget your:
'Give away items'.You will find opportunities to give things away. Bring blankets and clothing for kids that will last them as long as you are there. Also, bring toys. You won't find any good ones in Nepal. Your favorite clothing items so you can get them copied. If you have a shirt you love or something you always loved to wear but it doesn't fit any more, this is your chance to get it copied or made just right. Bring fabrics you love from home. Magazines that have wooden furniture you love. Find yourself a carpenter and he can copy that too!
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Into Thin Air.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
7 Days in Tibet
6. Do you have any other comments?
Never give up an opportunity like this. Of all the countries I have lived, Nepal was the most enriching and life changing. It will stretch you, but the character you will gain from the experience will be something you will hold forever.
