Abuja, Nigeria Report of what it's like to live there - 05/03/13
Personal Experiences from Abuja, Nigeria
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. I have also lived in Ciudad Juarez, Mexico and San Jose, Costa Rica.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Northeastern US - 20ish hours. If you only want one layover, you can fly through Paris, London, or Frankfurt (London has one fight daily, Paris and Frankfurt are overnight). If you want 2+ layovers, you can fly through Lagos.
3. How long have you lived here?
One year so far.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government - diplomacy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
This depends greatly on where you work. Housing in Abuja proper is extremely expensive (think Manhattan or London prices, aka $3,000 / month rent for a tiny / shabby apartment). The majority of my Nigerian colleagues commute from outside the city, from 60 minutes to 3 hours depending on traffic. That being said, if your housing is provided by a diplomatic mission, it tends to be large, cool, with plenty of storage, and on a guarded compound. As long as you're not driving at peak times, nothing in the city is more than 15-30 minutes away from anything else. Most expats live in Maitama, Wuse, or Asokoro.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can get most things, but they are very expensive. Even non-imported items, like fresh fruits and veggies, are much more expensive in Abuja than in the rest of the country. Apples US$1.50 each, a box of cereal $8-$10, decent-quality bathroom tissue $3 per roll, etc. You can get many British, South African, and Lebanese brands, fewer US. Meat is generally lower in quality than at home. Many expats use a farm-to-table approach. Fresh milk is not common, but it's findable. There are five kinds of beer here, only one of which is not a lager (it's a sweet variety of Guinness). One small store sometimes has Budweiser imported, but they charge US$200 per case (not joking).
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Brown ales and porters, beef jerky, olive oil, high-quality trash bags, paper goods, laundry soap, etc. You can mail order any non liquids through the diplomatic pouch
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
No US-brand fast food (no, not even McDonald's). Local equivalents are not bad, but are mostly chicken oriented. You can get pizza at many restaurants. Other restaurants are expensive, but have not-bad quality most of the time. Chinese/vaguely Asian (5 different places) tends to be the lowest quality, Lebanese the best (3 options). There two good Indian places. One Italian and one French that are very good (these are the extremely expensive places, think $100 per person easy, with wine). There is one place offering traditional Nigerian stews and dishes that expats tend to go to, but we most enjoy exploring the many roast fish/roast chicken/beef-on-a-stick/beer joints. You eat on plastic tables outdoors, and it's lovely. It can be very spicy, so be prepared.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Pretty much everything, although bugs tend not to get as big as in other places I've lived. They have the worst type of malaria here, and several expats who think they don't need the antimalarials have died from it. Ants that get into your house are the small ones, though, not the huge red stinging ones, so that's good.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Diplomatic pouch (there has been some talk of getting an APO).
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Available, cheap enough.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, but expensive. Three independent gyms, plus one at the Hilton.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
It is entirely a cash economy. The only safe place to do either is at the Hilton, and even then, I wouldn't. Most diplomats cash checks at work and avoid the problem altogether.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, many.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes. Direct TV is about US$150 per month.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None. But at the same time, you will have serious communication issues. English is almost no one's true first language. Learning just a little Igbo, Yoruba, Pigeon, or Hausa (Pigeon and Hausa are most widely spoken here) will make running errands, getting your car fixed, getting your food at the restaurant, etc. much faster and more entertaining.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Elevators are almost always broken (and many people don't use them anyway because power outages are so frequent, and can be quite long). Side walks (where they do exist) seem to be in better repair than I imagined they would be. No public transportation is wheelchair accessible.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No and yes, respectively. Some expats use taxis and are fine, though. There really aren't other options, it is a driving-only city.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
You would really be okay with anything in Abuja. Roads are wide and relatively well maintained. Something with higher clearance would be good for the innumerable speed bumps---and to see what's coming at you. Having a big car doesn't hurt when you're muscling through a crazy intersection, but it's not critical. However, really bright headlights, a loud horn, and good windscreen wipers are very critical. There are few street lights or traffic signals (power or bulbs are usually out) - the horn substitutes for both. The horn also seems to be an alternative to breaking or using a turn signal. Whatever you drive, be mentally prepared for 5-10 major dings and scratches, and not just on the bumper. However, resale value is very high.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
No. Some people have more luck than others, but there is no high-speed internet. What you do get is not absurdly expensive, but is it also not reliable. See phone section.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Anything you can put a SIM card into will work. The vast majority of people get a SIM and load it with prepaid minutes. You can do data like that, too. There is 3G. I hesitate to recommend a particular provider because they all go down for hours or even days at the time on a regular basis, or only get decent reception in certain parts of the city. Most Nigerians carry 2-3 phones.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
I think there is one vet, no kennels.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Yes, if you work overtime trying to find/secure them. Some teaching, contracting for development agencies (GIZ, DFID, USAID, etc etc). A work permit for non-diplomats costs $1000 per year.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Generally conservative at work, a bit more flexible in public.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Yes. And no. The terrorism thing is scary - it just kind of lurks there at the back of your mind all the time. You find yourself thinking "I hope if I get kidnapped they want a ransom and not a YouTube video of my death." In my one year so far, we've had a small explosion outside one of the few pub-style bars, a similar explosion outside a popular grocery store, and a major prison break. There was also the bombing of the UN headquarters in 2011 and bombings at two newspapers' office buildings in early 2012. Some diplomats might be put under curfew , and police checkpoints will increase, but other than that it doesn't impact your daily life. It's mostly just an ever-present fear that you feel somewhat irrational about having. Crime incidents like the following are a much more serious issue in terms of how you live your life here: home invasions, emphatic bribe demands at checkpoints (especially bad if you don't have diplomatic plates), taxi scams (someone pops out of the trunk through the back seats and holds you up at gunpoint), and muggings. Muggings are usually violent; the two I know about involved a stabbing and clubbing with a metal pipe. See notes on transportation below, as well.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Yes, and the quality of medical care is very, very low.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Pretty bad during the dry/dusty season (Nov-March); medium levels of pollution during other times of year, mostly from extremely old cars and trucks with no emission controls. You can't really run outside regularly without developing a nasty cough.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Warm to hot all the time (between 80-105F), with varying levels of humidity From May-September it rains at least once per day, usually right at sunset and again late at night - it cools it down a bit, but remains very humid. November-December is dry, dusty, and it actually gets down to 70 at night sometimes (you will see parkas, woolen hats, gloves, etc.). Jan-March is HOT and dry. October and April are right in between these extremes, and somewhat glorious, with big puffy white clouds, not too hot, but little rain.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I am not in a position to comment directly, but there are lots of expat families with children, and from what I've heard there is a choice among a decent variety of schools, both in number and quality. There is an American School, a French School, and an International School, and likely a few others.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
I think most people use nannies, who (I've heard) are relatively less expensive than in many other countries.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Don't know, but probably through the schools.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Medium to large.
2. Morale among expats:
Medium - depends on the day really. Most people are here to do interesting and meaningful work, so that helps.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Hmmm. I don't want to say "It's equally bad for everyone," but I am not sure how else to be honest here. Let's just say that once you find your niche within the diplomatic and local communities, it can actually be really great socially. You also have to be able to be nice to everyone, because, although there are lots of expats, Abuja is a small city, and you will run into the same people everywhere. You also need to be able to entertain yourself, since going out gets expensive and repetitive (people entertain at home quite a lot). Finally, know when to stop spending time with people who are overly negative, since they can really poison everyone else's experience. It can be fun if you make it fun!
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
This country is incredibly anti-LGBT; but at the same time, Abuja as a city seems to practice "don't ask, don't tell." It is difficult to maintain any kind of normal, open lifestyle outside the diplomatic/expat community.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes. But generally it is not directed against expats (well...gender prejudice unfortunately transcends most boundaries).
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Having a more active social life than I've ever had at home, a good sense of camaraderie with other expats and coworkers, getting out of the city limits for the Hash, eating roasted fish at outdoor restaurants, BBQs in friends' back parklots (yards/grass/green is sparse in the city) spending time at home playing my sadly-neglected musical instruments. The sheer joy and excitement that comes over people's faces when you try to speak a bit of one of the local languages - it's the best payoff per minute of language learning time I've ever experienced.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There are 2 movie theaters, one very good golf course, 1.5 malls, 5-ish grocery stores, two main open-air markets, and two tourist craft markets. There is a pottery making "village" about 45 minutes outside the city, and a waterfall a bit farther than that. The Hash organizes biweekly hikes which are well attended, and there is a mountain biking club. Finding a group to volunteer with helps keep things in perspective.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Wooden furniture carved to order, large paintings, bronze statues.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Weather is hot but not bad. The diplomatic and expat-NGO worker community is lively and relatively large. Even though activities don't vary too much, there are social events every weekend night and some week nights as well. Making friends outside the expat community is a bit trickier, possibly because the wealthy/political crowd in Abuja is not so exited about hanging out with ex-pats. If your employer/embassy/mission lets you travel outside the city (some do/most do not), you can explore some interseting cities/cultural sites within a few hours drive of Abuja - but kidnappings of expats are on the rise, so take serious precautions. Food and air travel are very expensive, so saving money is not really an option - Lagos is the cheapest flight (still usually over $400), but doing a long weekend there is fun because, compared to Abuja, Lagos feels like New York City!
11. Can you save money?
Yes, if you entertain at home and fly out of Abuja airport as infrequently as possible (tickets to Ghana are $500, all other countries $900+).
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
On the fence, leaning to "no".
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
winter clothes, fancy car, and your negative attitude. (If you bring it, it will consume you.)
3. But don't forget your:
Workout clothes, sense of humor, patience, and boardgames.
