Abuja, Nigeria Report of what it's like to live there - 08/21/15
Personal Experiences from Abuja, Nigeria
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No; I have also lived in the Azores and Seoul.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC. Fly Lufthansa/United out of Dulles to Frankfurt, then it is direct from there to Abuja. Total flight time is about 15 hours.
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is manageable, but not great. There are several compounds (of varying quality) in the USG housing pool. GSO works hard to improve the housing situation, but the landlord's market (where they sometimes double the rent just because their ego demands it) makes this an uphill battle. Most of the USG compounds have swimming pools, some have tennis courts, and a couple have gyms. One compound has a nice clubhouse operated by the employee association with food and draft beer. Construction quality is very poor: often, a structure is built, then they break the walls to install plumbing and electrical as an afterthought. The city's power infrastructure is also very poor, but USG housing (fortunately) has backup generators in place. You quickly grow numb to the multiple short power outages every day. That said, I've heard that new developers are coming into town trying to build US-spec housing, so there is hope.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can generally find good quality fresh produce at reasonable prices at the farmers' market or through a couple of vendors that come to the USG housing compounds. Some grocery items at stores are reasonably priced, some are astronomical. You won't usually find US brands, but other brands (often South African) will usually suffice. Choices of cheese and beer are seriously lacking.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Beer. You can order tortilla chips through some online vendors. I wish I could ship cheese. You should find UPS and power transformers that work on very dirty power and bring them in your shipment.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are a few KFCs and a couple of decent frozen yogurt and gelato places, and their prices seem OK. There is a Johnny Rockets - you pay $50 for what you would pay $12 in the US, but every once in a while, it's worth it. I've heard that a Domino's and a Cold Stone just opened in Abuja. If they are anything like the ones in Lagos, they are probably US quality with similar prices. Lebanese food is good in Abuja, probably because there is a large Lebanese community. Indian food is also pretty good. There are a few Chinese restaurants (ranging from passable to good), one good Ethiopian restaurant, one Thai restaurant (hit & miss on different menu items), and a couple of Italian restaurants (also hit & miss). There is a place called Beer Barn that has a surprising variety of imported beer.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Nigeria has malaria, so mosquitoes in the evening are a particular concern. There is a cerebral malaria strain here that is particularly dangerous. A few years ago, an American officer died from it (from what I understand, this person seemed to do all of the wrong things, leading to this worst case scenario). Although many non-Americans don't take the anti-malaria prophylaxis, Americans with the Mission are strongly advised to take it. There are three different kinds: doxycycline (1 daily capsule taken with food), Mefloquine (1 weekly capsule - some people have reported very vivid nightmares as a side effect), and Malarone (1 daily capsule - more expensive, but generally considered as the best of the 3). We never had any issues with malaria.
We very rarely saw dead cockroaches in our apartment. I'm guessing that a combination of all the geckos running around and the pesticide on our compound kept insects at bay.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Via pouch, although the embassy is in the process of standing up a DPO.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Available, cheap, and of varying quality. We were satisfied just to have someone who didn't steal from us, but some people are very happy with their stewards.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is a gym at the US Embassy and also at a couple of the USG housing compounds.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Um, did I mention this was Nigeria? Cash your checks at the embassy.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are lots of churches (Roman Catholic and Protestant) and a couple of mosques. I have heard that there is a Mormon church somewhere.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English is fine, though Nigerian English requires some adjustment.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
I think it depends on the disability. I have seen a couple of people who are wheelchair-bound get around OK, but my general impression is that this would be a very tough place for someone with a significant physical disability.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
USG personnel aren't allowed to use them due to safety and security concerns.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Honestly, just about any type of car is OK. Most of the roads are pretty good, but the ones that aren't are pretty awful. Small SUVs are preferred. Parts that aren't Toyota or Honda are very hard to come by. Bring spare tires - they are very expensive to ship later.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Maybe? Internet quality was one of the biggest complaints amongst USG personnel at post - varying quality, data caps, speed. That said, there was a new vendor just as I was leaving who was offering unlimited data via fiber optic links, so this could be a game changer.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Bring an unlocked smartphone and use Etisalat - reasonable pricing, reception, and service.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No quarantine required. There is a decent vet that most of the embassy staff used who made house calls - very reasonably priced.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
It depends. There is a bilateral work agreement in place, and I have seen several expats get work either with one of the USG agencies or with an NGO. Spouses who didn't work tended to be the most miserable.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Generally pretty conservative. If you had to deal with people outside of the embassy: coat and tie; internal: slacks and dress shirt.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Abuja is a designated high-threat post, with travel essentially restricted to within the Ring Road (which circles the city, of course). Even with the occasional Boko Haram explosion in or near the city, we never really felt unsafe.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Lots! (see malaria earlier). Basic medical care is available through the Health Unit and Abuja Clinic. Anything they can't handle means a MEDEVAC to London or Johannesburg.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
During the dry season, the Harmattan weather phenomenon brings sand dust through the city, leaving a film of dust on everything. It's generally very manageable, although there are occasionally dust storms that flare up, and I have heard of some people doing strenuous exercise outside during Harmattan and coughing up small blood droplets.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
I don't think I noticed any significant allergy issues. If you have a food allergy, you have to be really careful when dining out, as you never know what's actually in the food you ordered.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
There are two seasons: the rainy season, which is humid (obviously) with temperatures in the 80s/90s and some amazing thunderstorms (they are fun to watch from indoors), and the dry season, with temperatures in the 90s/100s (see Harmattan previously mentioned). It's pool weather year-round.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I've generally heard that primary school is decent, secondary school not so much but improving. Some families are happy with the American International School, some send their kids to boarding school elsewhere.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Pretty good size. Overall, I noticed that the morale of the expat community seemed to improve dramatically during my two years. I think this is a combination of improving quality of life options in Abuja and the arrival of a lot of good people. Within the embassy, the Ambassador and DCM were top-notch, while most of the rest of the staff were enthusiastic and capable. The quality of the people is what I will miss most.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
This mostly centered around parties at other people's compounds: pool parties, barbecues, etc. There was one American who hosted amazing karaoke parties. The great group of people led to a lot of fun parties.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I could see a case being made for each category. The expat scene is very single/couple-dominated, generally hosting parties at their compounds. Families seem to have fun by scheduling activities with each other at their compounds. The options for things to do out in town have not been great, but the options seem to be improving.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Nigeria has some of the world's most draconian anti-gay laws. That said, I have known several gay/lesbian expats, and I have not heard of any incidents against them.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Interestingly, as a white male, I have been very conscious of getting lots of privileged attention around town. I have also observed some of my African American female colleagues being flat-out ignored. Also, Nigeria is almost evenly split between Christians and Muslims, but my general impression is that they usually get along without any issues, in spite of the Boko Haram madness in the north.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The expat community was very tight-knit and fun. The quality of the work was terrific. Our R&R trips out of the country were awesome (you should really take advantage of the cost-construct option, as you can make some surprisingly amazing vacations).
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Hmm... still thinking...
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
A little bit of local art. The best values can be found at the Sheraton Crafts Village.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Successfully completing an assignment in Nigeria will instill the confidence that you can handle almost anything. The work is very important and gets a lot of attention back in Washington --- do well, and people will notice. There is very little worth spending your money on, so we saved up a lot of money. If you are Foreign Service, you get three R&Rs, which people have used for some pretty spectacular vacations. There is almost no tourism industry of note in Nigeria, but that didn't stop someone from buying one of those big, red CitySightSeeing tour buses (really?).
10. Can you save money?
Yes - we saved TONS.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I wish I'd known how physically draining an assignment here would be. I wish I'd known that, despite its challenges, Nigeria would be very rewarding professionally and very manageable from a quality of life perspective. It's not a garden spot, but there are worse places.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
We're glad we had the experience, but once was enough.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
High expectations, diva attitude, winter clothes, dreams of visiting the Nigerian countryside, dreams of having anyone come visit you.
4. But don't forget your:
Sense of humor, resilience, sunscreen, board games, puzzles, movie collection... sense of humor, resilience...
