Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea Report of what it's like to live there - 06/13/16
Personal Experiences from Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes, the first.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Philadelphia. About 24 hours of flight time. Assume two to three days of travel, depending on layovers.
3. How long have you lived here?
10 months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
A beautiful, new townhouse in the "Peninsula" compound. Ground Floor: two car garage, laundry room, half bath and small bedroom with tiny full bath. Second floor: open concept kitchen, dining and living room with half bath and under-stair storage plus large balcony. Upper floor: master bedroom (king bed) with walk-in closet, full bath (shower only) and small balcony, living room/office, two bedrooms, and full bath with tub. We have a small yard that is mostly tiled that we never use because it's hard to get to - you have to walk down stairs, go through the garage and then through a hallway past the laundry room.
The two sets of stairs are very tall - about 18-20 stairs each. GSO provides baby gates if necessary.
The Peninsula is waterfront property, and the Embassy rents about 10 townhouses here. There are another 10 townhouses rented by other diplomatic missions or expats. There is also one apartment building, and two more apartment buildings under construction. The new Embassy will be built in this complex as well, but that will be a few years away. It's nice to walk around along the water and watch the fish. Unfortunately, the sewage system empties into the lagoon in the back, so occasionally the smell is bad, and large amounts of trash often wash in. Right now, there is a small pool and a covered BBQ area by the pool. When construction is completed, there should be another pool, a playground, gym, tennis court, and other open space (in addition to the Embassy amenities). In the meantime, we are living in a construction zone, with the attendant dust and noise. You can also walk to two small restaurants within the compound, and you should go there in a group due to security reasons. There is a Yacht Club, which has a playground, two restaurants, a bar and a gym in addition to marina services.
There is also an owned compound about a mile away with about 8 (?) townhouses (referred to as the "Staff Compound"). The staff compound has a pool and a small gym. The townhouses here are dated and are chopped up by small stairs. There is no place to walk around, so it is not ideal for people with kids or anyone who needs to walk outside. It is very quiet. Stay-at-home spouses will go stir-crazy here.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Expensive, with occasional shortages. But you generally can get what you want for a price. Beef is pretty cheap. All dairy is imported, so it's expensive. Fresh milk costs about US$8 for one liter. Boxed milk is common and cheap. You can get cheese, but the selection varies. If you see a favorite, buy it and freeze it. Most imported foods come from Australia or NZ. There was an onion and carrot shortage for a few months last year.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
This is a consumables post. Bring peanut butter (the local version has a different consistency), Nutella, maple syrup, pickles, mustards, salsa, juice, alcohol, oils, soda, pasta sauces, anything you really like and can't ship via pouch. While you may be able to get many of the above items here, it is really expensive and the quality is not the same. The diplomatic pouch is your friend.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are no American fast-food restaurants. Generally, restaurants are expensive and are of low quality for the price. There is a new tapas place within walking distance of the Peninsula town homes with the only decent pizza I've found here. It is a breath of fresh air.
There are some fancy and expensive restaurants at the luxury hotels. But generally speaking, you have to cook from scratch every meal. Around the current Embassy downtown, there are very few restaurants available for lunch. There is a surprisingly good Indian place a 10 minute walk away (you need to walk in a group). Otherwise, very slim pickings. You will need to pack your lunch.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Not really. Surprisingly few for the climate.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Pouch only.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Housekeepers, or "Haus Meris," cost about 50 kina (about US$17) a day. Most of these amazing women live without water, electricity or non-dirt floors, and they risk their safety and well being to commute to work. While it is common to complain about the quality of work (and I am certainly guilty of this), I try to keep in mind how much they overcome, and I am happy to help the local economy.
Many haus meris also watch children, but there are nannies as well, who are referred to as "pickininni meris". The nannies will keep your children alive and well fed. Don't expect western-style nannies.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is a small air-conditioned free gym at staff compound. In a few years there should be a gym at the Peninsula and at the new Embassy. The Yacht Club and the Aviat club also have gyms for a price. There is no air conditioning in these. There are also gyms at the fancy hotels.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I sometimes use credit cards, but I try to use cash.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Not sure, but English is an official language. I know members of the mission do attend services.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English is fine, although most locals speak Tok Pisin.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Definitely.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Absolutely not. There is no public transportation. Privately owned PMVs are off limits, as are taxis. I think there are one or two approved car services.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
SUVs are probably best, but you don't need 4x4 in town. Outside you do, because roads are not paved outside of the capital. You may be able to drive for two hours outside of the city, so it's not like there are that many places to visit. Also, many women (myself included) do not feel safe driving here due to security reasons, especially with children in the back. You can use the Embassy's motor pool for a fee.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, but it is slow and incredibly expensive. For unlimited data, you could pay as much as $1000 US per month. That is not a typo. Most pay a few hundred for service that will generally not allow you to live stream. You can download overnight or longer and then watch. PNG has some of the most expensive internet in the world. No matter what you pay, you will encounter frequent complete outages. A huge bummer.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
The Embassy provides phones to employees and spouses. I kept free texting on my US phone for friends and family, and I use the local phone only for local friends.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Not sure - we don't have pets.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are a few positions available. As the post gets bigger, it will become a problem, because there is not much to do here for spouses. Telecommuting is difficult due to unreliable and slow internet.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
It is shockingly hard to volunteer. But there are some opportunities with an orphanage for children with AIDS and at a the RSPCA.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Casual. No Marine Ball. Some formal charitable events.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Absolutely. 70% of the local women are victims of spousal or sexual abuse. Carjackings are common, as are break-ins (although not in embassy housing). Expat women have been raped in situations that would surprise you (like a hotel bathroom). You can not walk outside of compounds or shopping centers. And you don't really want to walk around shopping centers because they are generally dirty (shoes are optional at most shopping centers, especially for children). There are no parks or playgrounds. You must always be on your guard in public. It's exhausting and stressful for EFM's and children who don't have the safety of the Embassy every day.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Malaria and Dengue are very common, including in the compound. There is a growing risk of drug resistant TB, and typhoid, AIDS, and cholera are here as well. Most of the local population do not have running water or electricity, and there is no public garbage collection. There are sewers that empty straight into the bay - I don't know if it is treated or not.
Medical care is dicey. We have not had a nurse here on post since I got here. They have hired one, but she or he has not started yet. We do have access to the Australian High Commission doctor for a fee. The U.S. Regional Medical Officer tries to come every few months. There are also clinics, although we don't have access to the one that most expats use. There is a private hospital that has ambulance service and an emergency room. Bring a credit card - unsure of costs but you really have no choice. I just continue to hope that nothing happens to us. It will be nice once the nurse gets here. Medevac spot is Singapore.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Fine. Burning trash is common and can get overwhelming if there is no wind.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Mold is common due to the climate. You are on your own for food allergies. International school is nut free.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Isolation and boredom. Not being able to walk around anywhere is incredibly frustrating. Work loads seem to be high, so you can bury yourself in work, but that has its own issues. If you have children, you will worry about their mental health.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Tropical. Hot and wet and Hot and dry.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There is one approved international grade school - The Ela Murray International School - kindergarten (called "prep" here) through 8th grade. It is based on Australian curriculum, but it is not accredited by any non-PNG institution - standards are set by private PNG consortium. We have found the curriculum to be about a year behind our public school back home. Since the school year starts in January, our older son started late in the fourth grade in September (when he would have begun fourth grade in the States) and then started fifth grade in December. He loves his current teacher, who is from Canada. He had difficulty understanding his local 4th grade teacher. Class size seems to be about 25 per class. Two classes per grade. Pretty good after-school programs, including music lessons. I will need to do a better job augmenting math, or else he will be behind at the next post. Facilities are just okay. There is a large pool, tennis courts and a soccer pitch. The bathrooms are kind of gross, and sometimes they run out of water. But that happens throughout the city and is probably not the school's fault. I think the first grade may be full, so check with the school before you bid in order to see if there are a waiting list for your child's grade if you come in mid-year.
High School:
POMIS, the high school, is not approved by the American education team. Some people at the EU do send their children and like it.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Probably not much.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Preschool:
The Ela Murray Early Learning Center preschool is fantastic and expensive (about $1200US per month, 7:30-2:30 full time). You can send just a few days a week. It is the only preschool with decent bathrooms and a very large shaded playground. It is purely a play-based curriculum. There is no formal learning of letters. There is a long waiting list, so you should contact the school ASAP.
There are two other preschools used by expats - Southbridges and Peter Pan. Southbridges is not yet full-day and has a very small facility. Southbridges does focus on formal learning and is run by Filipino teachers.
Peter Pan's curriculum is a mix between the two above, but it's facilities (especially the bathrooms and lack of shade) were problematic for me.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Only through school. Besides the after-school programs (rugby, soccer, tae kwon do, programming, etc.) there are inter-school soccer and rugby programs.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large due to oil and gas, aid work and diplomatic missions. Morale is mixed.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
You may have to work at it, but there are ways to meet people. The Yacht club and Aviat club are social clubs with restaurants and gyms. There are groups that snorkel and dive or bushwalk. If you put yourself out there, you will find non-mission friends.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
If you can get over the security and medical issues, this is fine for singles, couples and families with toddlers and perhaps babies. There are playgroups for toddlers and below on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday around the city, so you can easily meet other parents (mostly moms). I can't recommend it for school-aged children - it is just too isolating, and the school is not great.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Probably not.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There is no gender equality. This is a very Christian nation, although Christianity is mixed with a belief in sorcery. Women and some men have been murdered for being accused of being witches.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Living in such a culturally different society has been fascinating. If you do not appreciate America after living here, you are doing it wrong.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Renting Embassy boat to visit Fisherman's Island or Lion Island; Crystal Rapids, Koitake Lodge, massages at Airways Hotel.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Yes - there are markets most weekends with local art and carvings.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Proximity to Cairns, Australia and the Great Barrier Reef.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
That so many women (and some men) do not feel safe enough to drive here. That we would not have a medical professional at post. How isolating compound living is. That the elementary school does not really meet international school standards. That it is so expensive to travel within the country - it is cheaper and/or more relaxing to fly and stay in Cairns. That you can not save money if you pay for preschool at the ELC and/or leave the country on travel for mental health reasons.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Certainly not with school-aged children. I would have stayed back on SMA if I really knew how difficult it is here.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Cold-weather clothes.
4. But don't forget your:
Patience and sense of adventure.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
"Guns, Germs and Steel"
6. Do you have any other comments?
The hardship pay has been raised to 35% for a reason. One R&R per year is not enough. Many people who thought they would extend decided not to do so once they got here. We thought it would be a hidden gem, and were wrong. That being said, once the construction ends at the Embassy and Peninsula, it will be much better.
