Krakow, Poland Report of what it's like to live there - 08/19/11
Personal Experiences from Krakow, Poland
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, it is our 4th overseas assignment
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington D.C. It is a 2-hour flight to Munich and an 8-hour flight to D.C.
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
USG
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Families are in detached houses and couples are in apartments or townhouses. Housing varies on size and quality of finish, but most are pretty nice. Most houses are about 4 miles outside the downtown and consulate area (a 15-20 minute drive or 25-30 minutes on public transportation).
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Fruits and veggies in season are really inexpensive, but out of season you won't find much or you will pay an extreme amount for what you do find. There is a wholesale-type store, Makro, that offers a pretty good selection, and a few higher-end grocery stores like Alma. A lot can be purchased at fruit and veggie stands or bakeries or specialty meat shops.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Ethnic foods, spices and condiments. Although you can find most everything here, you pay a lot for it. We order all our clothes, shoes, electronics, etc. We buy anything other than food online just because of cost, not because of availability.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
McDonald's, KFC, Subway, plenty of kebab stands, lots of Polish and Italian cuisine. There isn't too much outside of Polish and Italian in terms of choices. You can eat a good, not great, meal with drinks for much less than you can in the States.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Vegetarian-friendly foods are just starting to make there way into Poland. There are a couple of restaurants and a couple of stores that carry soy- based products. Organic is even weaker here.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes during the summer.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Through the pouch or DPO.Mail tends to be slow. It takes at least 3 weeks.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Domestic help is available, but this is Europe. It is not as expensive as Western Europe, but not as cheap as the developing world. We pay 5 dollars an hour for average help.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes. There are public pools and plenty of clubs, but they are not cheap. Most pools run about 5 dollars an hour for swimming.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
It is fine and safe, although some places expect you to have a Euro credit card with the pin and chip. Not all places will take credit cards, so check first.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
One English mass a week at a catholic church, Spanish mass once a month at a catholic church, there are some small protestant groups.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Satellit tv has a full range of channels and you can get AFN.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Outside of the tourist areas, it is a must. In stores, veggie stands, etc., they will not speak English. Even if Poles know English they are really reluctant to use it and will let you struggle in Polish rather than speak English.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Most of the buildings in the city center are hundreds of years old and not accessible.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes. They are safe and affordable.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Polish roads are pretty bad. Roads can be narrow, but delivery trucks and buses use them, so size is not a problem. With a larger car, parking can sometimes be tight -- this is a really old city. At a minimum, all-weather or snow-specific tires are needed for the winter, especially if you want to travel out of Poland, since some neighboring countries require them.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, but it isn't so high speed.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Many major European carriers like TMobile and Orange are here. You can get prepaid or go with a plan.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No, but they have to have the EU pet passport.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
We have a great vet, and their English and quality of care is better than that of the doctors. We have joked that if we were seriously ill, we would rather see the vet than the doctors here.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not really. Jobs at the consulate are the best bet.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Poles, like most Europeans, tend to be dressier. Consulate staff wear suits.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Krakow is a tourist destination, so pickpockets are common.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The recently hired Post Medical Advisor has improved the situation, but there is a lack of English-speaking medical professionals, even for relatively routine cases. Many people have had to be medevac'd to London. The dentist here, for example, is very modern and well trained, but he doesn't speak English, and neither does anyone on his staff. Hospitals are well equipped but look like something from the 1950s, and are crowded with long lines.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Moderate, but there is a lot of open burning of garbage. And Poles often burn coal in the winter that is hard on the lungs.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Winters are long and dark. The sun is down by 3 p.m. in the depths of winter. Springs have a lot of rain, and summers can vary from winter coats to 90 plus degree temperatures. The long winters and being cooped up inside tend to take their toll.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Currently half of the families at post homeschool due to the long commute, long days and for individual family reasons. The International School of Krakow is the USG sponsored school, and it small (especially in the upper grades) and is located on the outskirts of Krakow. The physical plant of ISK has been updated. There is also a British International School that is in the city center.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
They are available but in Polish. Some families in the past have used it and liked it.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Tough one. The international school has an intramural program. Any other programs are in Polish and are holdovers from the communist sports training facilities. There are no "fun" sports programs or non-elite sports programs.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Small. Krakow itself only has about 800,000 people. Work contacts are not likely to translate into friendships. Average Poles have no need for your friendship, and the small expat community makes it difficult, especially for kids.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Lots of restaurants, bars, concerts. But not a lot of socializing at home among expats.
3. Morale among expats:
Krakow is a charming city, but once the novelty wears off and the reality of weather, language, the rude and unfriendly nature of Poles, and poorly run admin at the consulate sets in, the honeymoon ends quickly. A lot of time is spent battling the admin for basic needs and work orders. The inefficiency of this section really weighs heavily on the home life. This isn't something likely to change since FSN turnover is unlikely.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
This is a great city for singles and couples. Lots of restaurants, bars, concerts, etc. It is more difficult for families, as most family activities and almost all cultural activities are in Polish. Because it is not a family tourist destination, most restaurants in the city center are not family friendly, but a few in the neighborhood of consulate families are making steps to becoming more family friendly. You will see very few Polish kids out and about at grocery stores or in town. As Americans, we have been told to get our kids out of the grocery stores because they are in the way of the old grannies there. Polish grandparents take care of the kids while the parents work, so you will not see too many family outings. Kids, if they are in pubic, are to be quiet so as not to disturb the peace.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Poland is socially conservative, and in Krakow they are even more so. However, there is a gay and lesbian film festival each year.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes. Poland is a very homogenous society, and there have been instances of racist comments. If you aren't caucasian you will stand out.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
We have traveled so much while here. You are less than 6 hours driving to Budapest, Berlin, Vienna, Bratislava, Warsaw, Prague, and there are cheap flights to other European destinations. Krakow itself is a major tourist destination, and there are often festivals and a wealth of tourism activities in Krakow.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
In Krakow, there is a festival or cultural event every week. There are extensive trails for hiking, a lot of biking, even roller blading around the largest public commons in Europe. Zakopane is a mountain town about 2 hours away with hiking, skiing, etc.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Boleslawiec pottery, folk art at the craft festivals.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Poland is the middle of Europe, so it makes travel cheap and accessible.
11. Can you save money?
You can easily spend all your free money on travel if you choose. Take advantage of the central location and travel.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Probably, but we would realize that 3 years in a place in where most people visit for week is a long time. This isn't the home-run assignment that we or many other people at post thought it would be. For a first-world country, it really seems behind in a lot of ways.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Sunscreen, beach towels, swim suits and smiles. Poles think smiling is for idiots.
3. But don't forget your:
Thick skin, warm coats, Polish dictionary, and passport for travelling out of here.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
A long time ago and essentially true by Brigid Pasulka (Sums up the tragic history of three generation of Poles that explains much of what you see here.)
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Aniol w Krakowie, Vinci
6. Do you have any other comments?
We have lived up our European tour. We have traveled extensively, in part, because we don't want to come back to Europe after this tour. There is some truth to the old saying that dogs are more welcome than kids in Europe.
