Vladivostok, Russia Report of what it's like to live there - 04/05/12
Personal Experiences from Vladivostok, Russia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, this is my fifth expat experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
North Carolina. Two-days via either Seoul or Moscow.
3. How long have you lived here?
We just left after 18 months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Consulate employees mostly live in townhouses nearby. They are very large and well-equipped. Housing here is very good in general.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can buy most things in Vlad, but they tend to be pricey. Most things are imported from European Russia, and fresh fruits and veggies can be hard to come by in winter. Meat is very poor quality.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
4x4, stabilizer winter traction footwear, and heavy winter clothes.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There's a Cinnabon and a fake Subway, but no McDonald's. There are a surprising amount of good restaurants in town. There is good Italian, Korean, Uzbek, Georgian, (of course) Russian, and other random stuff. You won't go hungry there, but the nice restaurants are pricey. Expect to pay $50 per person.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Not much.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Lots. Mosquitoes are horrible, but the real danger are the disease carrying ticks in the forest. Treatment for these diseases are spotty and locals avoid the woods during tick season of May and June especially.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Diplomatic pouch. No DPO.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Hard to find trustworthy and reliable help, and it's not cheap.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, but the nice places are very expensive. Around US$200 a month.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I used local ATM's frequently with no problem. Most nice restaurants and some stores take cards. The only problem is that some places won't accept foreign cards.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
The Catholic priests are Americans and the Lutheran pastor is German. I think they give services in Russian though.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
AFN and internet.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
A lot. Very few people speak English.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Lots.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Buses are cheap and safe, but stinky. Taxis are also not too bad, but probably not too safe (even though I used them a lot). There are no registered taxis. Just some random guys who drive around and pick up passengers. It's better to take them in groups.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
A 4x4 with high ground clearance. I know you were told that about your last post, but it turned out not to be true, BUT if you want to drive in winter in Vlad it's a must. One colleague brought a FWD car with studded snow tires, but he couldn't even make it up our driveway in winter. My Jeep did OK, but I recommend winter/snow tires. Even during summer, the roads are horrendous with massive potholes.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, and not too pricey. Less than $100 a month for fast DSL.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Get one. Not too expensive, but unless you have a local ID it can be hard to get a sim card.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
I understand decent vets are available, but I have no personal experience. Russians love animals especially dogs.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Nope.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Informal compared to Moscow. People only wear suits for special occasions and people will actually stare if you're wearing a suit, because it's so unusual. It's a very dirty city, especially in winter, so your clothes will become dirty/damaged very quickly.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Driving here is deadly. The city is very hilly, similiar to San Fransisco, but the streets are covered with snow and ice 5 months out of the year. This makes driving treacherous. Drunk people at night can be a nuisance, but during my time I never witnessed any real violence on the streets.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Lots! For anything worse than a cold you should be medevac'd to Korea.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
It is usually good unless our neighbors are burning their trash.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It's Siberia! Generally it's colder than Moscow, but the winters are clear and sunny. They are very survivable even for the unitiated as long as you have the proper winter gear. Spring is monsoon season so it's very rainy and windy. Summer and fall are too short, but beautiful. In summer the town really is a beach community with lots of watersports which surprised me.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
My kids went to a local Russian kindergarten, which they loved. There is a school called "The School for Gifted Children" which teaches in English but the teachers and most of the students are Russian. There is no accredited international school as of 2012.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
None.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
My kids enjoyed their school, but the facilities are atrocious compared to the US. Their school costs around $500 a month. You can hire a full-time nanny for around $800 - $1000 a month, it's hard to find someone reliable and trustworthy. Also, pre-schools never accept kids who are not potty trained. Russian women can take three years maternity leave, so there's not much demand for pre-schools for small kids.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Not really in the American sense. Boys have martial arts class at school and girls do ballet. Hockey classes for kids are available.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Very, very, small. One of the smallest in the world in any city where we have a Consulate or Embassy I'm sure. This isolation is one of the most difficult parts of this post.
2. Morale among expats:
Surprisingly high. Most expats are lifers married to locals, so they've chosen to make their life in Vlad, because they enjoy it.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Bars, restaurants, clubs. Russians love to party.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I was there with my young family and we enjoyed it. Russians are very kid friendly and there's relatively lots for families to do. However, it's definitely a tough place. Single people like it if they speak Russian and are interested in meeting locals. Families with older children should consider carefully before moving to Vlad due to the lack of schools.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Russians are pretty homophobic, so I imagine it could be tough for openly gay people.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes to all of the above. During my time in Vlad, there was no racial violence that I'm aware of and there are lots of Asians in the city. However, the racism that persists in European Russia could easily spread to Vlad any time, so caution is advised.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Getting to know the locals, hanging out in bars and restaurants, traveling around the region to experience the untamed wilderness.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Hang out with locals, hit the bars/ clubs, learn to ice skate, ice fish, go to Kamchatka.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Cheaply made, but expensive, Russian souvenirs, vodka, restaurants, travel to other parts of the Russian Far East.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Learning about winter sports, living in a rarely visited (by foreigners) part of the world, getting to know a new culture. Russians in Vladivostok are very friendly and warm, especially compared with Moscow. A good comparison would be New York vs. Seattle.
11. Can you save money?
Yes, if you don't leave too much. Flights out are expensive.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, but not with school-aged kids.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Golf clubs, sandals, and 1st world living standards.
3. But don't forget your:
Winter clothing, especially something for ice traction, a 4x4, and a healthy sense of patience and humor.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Travels in Siberia by Ian Frazier
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Not sure. Maybe Doctor Zhivago
6. Do you have any other comments?
Vladivostok is truly unlike anywhere else in the world. It has a high hardship differential that is very, very, well deserved. I had previously served at another high hardship post, which in comparison was a cakewalk compared to Vlad. You really have to live like a local, because there are no expat facilities. However, Vlad is just so crazy and so off the wall, that's it's hard not to enjoy your overall experience there if you're an adventurous person.
