Vladivostok, Russia Report of what it's like to live there - 06/22/17
Personal Experiences from Vladivostok, Russia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. I lived previously in the FSU for approximately six years in two other cities.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC, USA. 16 hours of air time plus layovers. Better to route through Seoul or Tokyo than Moscow, unless you have no choice.
3. How long have you lived here?
3+ years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
For official personnel, housing was almost entirely townhouses with a few apartment buildings post was trying to get rid of. You can see the US consulate from the main townhouse complex, making the drive about 5-10 minutes in good weather and a walk approximately 15-20. As others have noted, driving and even walking in winter adds a number of dangers. Strongly recommend 4x4 cars with winter tires and buy snow boots and/or attachable winter traction devices to your boots.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Surprisingly good. Most goods are from Europe or Asia and the variety and quality were nice. Most grocery stores lack any English language signs, however, but it's easy to use a phone to translate from labels if your Russian isn't strong. Household supplies were relatively available, but again are European and Asian equivalents to U.S. brands. Costs fluctuated a lot with certain items very affordable and others much more expensive for no apparent reason.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Not much. Official Americans can get dry goods through diplomatic pouch. Alcohol (anything other than beer or wine) is prohibitively expense (a small bottle of American whiskey cost in excess of $70; the same that costs $30 in the U.S.) The things you will not be able to get locally will largely be perishables, however, so stockpiling in advance may not be helpful.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Excellent, excellent restaurants. I don't recall any delivery services available, but you could take out food from many locations. I took full advantage of the restaurants here and had at least a dozen places that I miss dearly now (Zuma - high end, trendy Asian fusion/sushi), Moloko & Med - European/American, Dumpling Republic - Asian dumpling/noodle house, Paulaner Brewhouse - german beerhall and restaurant, Khlopok - amazing Uzbek restaurant and my favorite place in VL, Syndicate - steakhouse with live jazz music, etc.). When I arrived in 2012, I was told there were few options for quality food, but by exploring, it was easy to find truly excellent restaurants and great new options opened every months. While warm weather months are precious given the climate, the outdoor dining scene explodes during this time of year and you'll find yourself tempted to go out for dinner every night/day.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
I didn't experience anything and don't necessarily agree with comments about mosquitoes seen in other posts, but maybe my home was simply situated differently. Tick issues out in the woods was something we were warned about, however.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Diplomatic pouch. I never used local facilities.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
I apparently had a different experience than other respondents. I had a part-time maid who was exceptional, very friendly, and very thorough. It was years ago, but was very affordable in my opinion given how well she cleaned and how much time it saved me.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Actually, excellent. I belonged to Geometria Fitness and the facilities were very nice, equipment was well-maintained, and there were a number of classes you could join (spin, yoga, etc.). Cheaper than equivalents in DC, but not necessarily "cheap."
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
You may use them, but security advice from post was to avoid credit card use in general due to the threat of information being stolen. ATMs inside of shopping centers major hotels, and banks were considered safe. We were cautioned strongly against using ATMs found on the streets/exteriors of banks due to rampant skimming and hidden spycams.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
It is very helpful, if not essential. By 2015, approximately half of the nice restaurants in town had an English language menu (often just one copy). In a few cases, we actually translated these for them. I would assume this has increased since then. English language capacity was very limited in general, however. Locals generally study Chinese, Japanese, or Korean in school rather than English. Russian instruction for foreigners is available locally and is affordable.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
The consulate was the only ADA compliant building in the city, perhaps the entire region, if I recall correctly. Vladivostok is an extremely hilly city and most building entrances involved stairs without ramps. Over three years, I never once saw anyone in a wheelchair and only once saw someone with crutches. I imagine it would be a very challenging place for someone with disabilities.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Very. I didn't find buses or trams as smelly or dirty as others have noted. It's Russia. It's the Far East. I've been on some pretty dirty subway trains in New York as well and didn't find public transport here to be particularly bad. Taxis were becoming more reliable by 2015 with radio dispatch companies sending reliable cars to you (you must speak Russian in order to make requests, however). Marked taxis were more expensive, but far safer than flagging down local "gypsy" cabs (private drivers hoping to make extra money). Same advice in any country - be extra careful at night and if you feel that the car is taking you somewhere other than your destination, trust your instincts. In three years at post, I don't recall any reports of people being attacked or robbed by drivers, though. Very safe if you are smart.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
4x4, winter tires/all weather tires. Even with such a car, I lost control of my car twice and slid downhill. By luck, these never resulted in any collision with others. Russian drivers are often amazing in their winter driving skills (awe-inspiring, actually), but collisions in winter were a daily occurrence. Major roads would also be shut down in winter if the road's grade was too steep, funneling everyone to the same few thoroughfares. That resulted in a lot of accidents, frustration, road rage. I rode a motorcycle here infrequently (there is a big riding community here with a huge festival in May), but road conditions are poor and drivers show little concern for bikers. I quit early in my tour and never rode again for safety reasons.
Parts for Asian-make vehicles (Toyota, Honda, Hyundai, etc.) were readily available. Parts for European and, particularly, American make vehicles were unavailable or extremely hard to locate. I had to order a part through the pouch, but local mechanics are actually excellent and very creative. Theft from vehicles was more prevalent than theft of vehicles. If you don't have a garage or a private parking lot at your building, you may be at greater risk if you are parking on the street. Many apartment complexes have a guard or at least drop-arm gate to protect against car theft.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, but you may have to try several options before finding what works for you. I tried two cable providers and was very disappointed, though I did catch my neighbors splicing the service from the second provider. Eventually, I settled on a 4G modem service that was extremely fast and fairly dependable.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Several options here (MTS, Beeline, etc.) that were pretty reliable and relatively cheap.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Yes. I used a veterinarian recommended by other consulate employees and he was excellent. My dog was rather small (carry-on size) and the process to import and export the dog was surprisingly simple. You just need to make sure that your veterinary exam before export is made within the strict time limit before your departure date.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not sure. Limited opportunities without very strong Russian language skills. Jobs within the consulate were limited (CLO, nurse).
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual. Jeans and slacks are common for men. Women tended to dress more formally than their male counterparts.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Be aware of the environment in light of bilateral relations. In 2012, this was a much more forgiving atmosphere. By 2015, there was a bit more anti-American sentiment. Having lived in Moscow, I found the people of Vladivostok to be much more worldly, open-minded, and accepting of other cultures than their counterparts in Moscow. Unlike western Russia, large portions of the population are of Asian descent and mixed families were common. That being said, foreigners (identified by language or appearance) will draw attention and not always in a positive way.
There were some issues with feral dogs at post, but the local government "resolved" this before the 2012 APEC Summit. They did not reappear in numbers even after three years, but may not be the case now. We did not have any issues in Vladivostok during my three years at post, but you would regularly see reports of bears and even tigers entering smaller towns and villages further north.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
See above. Local medical care improved dramatically after the building of the medical center on Russkiy Island in 2015, which employed quality professionals and advanced equipment. There was also a European medical clinic that opened in 2015. Major issues would require a medical evacuation, but you can at least expect proper diagnosis and stabilization/preliminary treatment locally.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
In general, excellent. Your location next to the sea blew away most of the pollution and resulted in most of the year being bright and sunny even when it was extremely cold. As others have noted, however, locals often burn their trash for weeks on end in summer and that ruins all the beneficial effects of the sea breeze. Fog here is amazing. One moment, it can be clear and bright. The next, you can barely see ten feet in front of you.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
It is unlikely you will find a restaurant with gluten-free or other specialty menus, so you'll have to self-sufficient in this regard.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Happily, Vladivostok is sunny with clear skies the majority of the year. This was a huge surprise to me. Even when it was bitter cold (-30), it was bright and clear unlike Moscow, which is generally gloomy, grey, and overcast for much of winter.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
June-September was amazing - warm, sunny, clear skies, with few days of rain or storms. As noted previously, the outdoor dining scene and outdoor/rooftop bar scene explodes during these months. Winters can get very, very cold (thermal underwear, goose down coats, insulated boots, etc.), but days are still usually sunny and cloudless. When snow does fall, however, it stays around forever and makes life complicated here - driving is treacherous, walking is a challenge (there are almost no sidewalks in this city), accidents are common/people drive way too quickly, and many roads get closed. Brownouts were common and in winter and could have implications for life safety. By 2015, all embassy residences were outfitted with emergency generators, but this may not be the case for private citizens.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
As noted by others, very limited. The School For the Gifted was the only real option and was the school that American, Japanese, and Korean expat students attended (English language instruction). Expats with small children enrolled them in local kindergartens/preschools, and their children quickly learned Russian.
2. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes. Soccer/European football is very popular with active sporting leagues. As of 2015, an American football league was starting up with teams from cities throughout Russia competing with one another.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Extremely small, however morale seemed to be very high. Vladivostok is a well-kept secret in my opinion. It is listed as a hardship post and, for certain people, this may hold true. However, the quality of life here is surprisingly good, the restaurant/cafe/bar scene was amazing, goods are relatively available, and if you are friendly and make an effort to communicate in Russian, most locals were extremely nice and accommodating. It is the overseas assignment that I miss the most.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
The expats held a monthly expat happy hour. Otherwise, you'd have to just go out and meet people. There is enough to do and enough opportunities to interact to make this very easy.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
As noted by others and consistent with much of the FSU, this is better place for single males than single females. Couples will enjoy as well. Families will have the most challenges out of those three groups. While there are special restaurants with kid-friendly sections/events, some waterfront parks with nice playgrounds, and things to explore, the geography does not lend itself to letting children run around on their own too much. If they lack language, it may also be harder for children to socialize with their peers. Seems like expat children tended to stick together. Anecdotal stories from the School for the Gifted were that the locals could be catty toward the expat children, but I had limited visibility on this.
4. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
As noted earlier, appearing foreign will get you significant attention - sometimes good, sometimes bad. It will vary by person.
5. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
I met some amazing people while here and truly enjoyed my assignment due to this. As far as experiences, I missed Kamchatka, but colleagues and friends who went their described it as "amazing." I did visit Lena's Pillars in northern Yakutia and it was breathtaking. Sakhalin Island, where most expat oil companies were located, was a fairly nice place to visit. Within Vladivostok, Russky Island had many opportunities for hiking, enjoying beaches, kayaking/rowing, etc. While in Russia, I visited Kazan which was a fun break and very different from both Moscow and Vladivostok. Worth a trip.
6. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Russky Island. Some of the beaches north along the eastern coastline were amazing, just be careful that you don't go into any regions that are under military control (i.e., Fokina) as a foreigner. Khabarovsk has an festival in winter where the city is decorated with ice sculptures. The Chinese city of Harbin is also an easy flight from Vlad and their winter ice festival (a whole city is built of ice) is supposed to be amazing - sadly, I did not make it during my tour, but others went and loved it, though they said it was incredibly cold.
7. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Traditional Russian art and souvenirs are available, but there is no specific local "specialty."
8. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Sea views from consulate housing, nice waterfront areas, very large townhouses, excellent restaurants, enough to do to keep you occupied and not bored, easy travel to points of interest in Asia, and an environment that encourages you to learn/develop your Russian language skills.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
It was a much friendlier, more open environment than I had expected. It took me a while to explore restaurants and cafes to figure out which were the best. It would have been nice to get some quality advice beforehand. However, you can now find a lot of reviews/photos online that weren't there in 2012.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely. I wouldn't have imagined that I would miss Vladivostok as much as I do.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expectations that Siberia/the Russian Far East is a barren wasteland covered in ice. It's a hidden gem if you have a sense of adventure, an open mind, and don't expect it to be like living in northern Virginia.
4. But don't forget your:
Winter clothes. As sunny and clear as it is most of the year, that lovely sea breeze is unforgiving in January.
