Riyadh, Saudi Arabia Report of what it's like to live there - 03/17/13
Personal Experiences from Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Australia is a 20 hour flight.
3. How long have you lived here?
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
The contributor was affiliated with the Australian government and lived in Riyadh from 2010 to 2012, a fifth expat experience.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Most westerners live on housing compounds, most of which are 30-45 minutes' drive from the city. Most diplomats live in the DQ, which is about 15 minutes from town.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There is cheap local seasonal produce, although with a limited variety of choices. Everything else is flown in from the US and elsewhere and can be very expensive. You can buy pretty much everything, for a price, except alcohol and anything containing it, pork products, nutmeg and wine vinegar.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Foodstuffs, personal toiletries, books, music, board games, anything to help pass the time.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Saudis love fast food. Everything that you can find in the USA exists here.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Compounds can be full of mosquitoes, but are generally regularly fumigated (don't ask what with - it's probably not healthy).
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Mail is generally let in if the material is not offensive. Amazon will ship to KSA.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Available and cheap. Around SAR1000 a month for a part-time maid, and SAR2000 for a driver (essential for women, if they are not to be house-bound).
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Commercial gyms are only for men (though there is one women-only gym on the DQ). For women, there are often gyms on compounds, or join the US Embassy-run USERA facilities.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Like in Europe or the US.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Everything but Islam is illegal, but private services of various denominations do exist.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Available, but the foreign press is censored, and the local English-language press is of awful quality. Satellite TV is standard in compounds.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None. The people who work in shops/restaurants, etc. are South-East Asian expats who speak broken English. You'll hardly ever need to interact with Saudis, unless it's your job to seek their company.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
No one walks anywhere, so if one had a suitable car, it might be okay.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Westerners do not take buses, and women should not take taxis. There is a train to the Eastern Province, which is basic, but fine for an outing.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
4WD is best, because of frequent car crashes (get a good crash-test rating) and the ability to take them on desert outings. A small car would not be a good idea.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Reasonable internet service is available - good enough for Skype without video - but it's expensive and can take months to get installed.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
3G coverage fine in Riyadh, patchy elsewhere.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Not sure. Saudis hate dogs, but some Westerners have managed to bring them in - you have to classify the dog as either a guard dog or a blind dog, since pet dogs are not allowed.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Yes, though the conditions and work practices can be hair-raising. For female spouses: check out the "Women's Skills Bureau" website.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Women must wear the abaya, but do not need to cover their head if they are white. Arab-looking and Asian-looking women do need to cover their head, and will attract more attention from the religious police (not fun!). Men should avoid shorts in public.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There is a general risk of terrorism, which is easy to ignore once you get used to the heavy security around the Diplomatic Quarter, government buildings, and western housing compounds.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is patchy at best. For anything important/complex, you'd best leave the country. There is a wide variety of prescription drugs available cheaply and without a prescription.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Regular dust storms can be unbearable, especially if you have asthma or allergies. The lack of humidity makes your skin so dry it cracks, and many people have dry eye and throat problems.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Incredibly hot in summer; surprisingly cold in winter. From April to September it is mostly too hot to do anything outside during daylight hours.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
UK, French and US schools exist and are apparently good.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Probably.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Medium.
2. Morale among expats:
Varies. Accompanying female spouses tend to be miserable, as are many singles, but not all. Families with small kids seem to do best.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Mostly private parties and dinners, since music, theater, dance, most art, cinema and bars are illegal.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Fine for all, but it would be least fun for an accompanying female spouse without small kids, because there is nothing to do all day.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Officially, no. There is a death penalty for homosexuality. Unofficially, though, there is a pretty active gay scene, and I have known gay men to be very happy dating here --- although it is all underground, of course, and can be risky, especially if you go out with a local.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Incredible racism, directed at anyone of non-Arab or non-white appearance (i.e., Black, Asian, and Pacific Island people). Allowances are sometimes made for Westerners, but not if they aren't white.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Expat friendships are the highlight, but also travels within Saudi and encounters with locals, who are usually friendly if you show some interest in their culture.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Desert picnics, private parties and dinners, parties on compounds, the Hash, triathlon and road-cycling clubs, motorcycle riding on Fridays, theatre group, choirs, 4WD club, coffee mornings for accompanying female spouses (like craft fairs).
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Nothing is made locally at all, though you can buy honey from Yemen, rugs from Iran and Afghanistan, and furniture from Pakistan, if you like.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It is a good base for exploring the Middle East, and travel within Saudi can be beautiful, if tiring.
11. Can you save money?
Yes, but you'll spend it on holidays, because you need to get out every 3-4 months, or you'll go mad.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, but it is not for everyone. If you have strong nerves, a good sense of humour, and an adventurous spirit, you'll be fine. But more than 3-4 years is not recommended. The place is fascinating, but it robs you of so many of the smaller (and larger) joys of life, from music to green trees to walking around in normal clothes.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
prejudices - Saudi is bizarre and unlike any other country on earth. It is not like Dubai or Abu Dhabi, or anywhere else. With an open mind, you can have some interesting adventures here.
3. But don't forget your:
Books, movies, anything related to your hobbies that can be practised at home or in private. Musical instruments.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Inside the Kingdom: Kings, Clerics, Modernists, Terrorists, and the Struggle for Saudi Arabia
(Robert Lacey), The Saudis: Inside the Desert Kingdom
(Sanda Mackey), My Desert Kingdom: Finding a Life in Saudi Arbia
( Jill Koolmess)
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
The Kingdom
- a bit silly, but why not.
6. Do you have any other comments?
Saudi is an exhausting but fascinating place to live in. Bearable for a while, because of the incredibly supportive expat community, but you wouldn't want to live there long-term.
