Riyadh, Saudi Arabia Report of what it's like to live there - 10/27/15
Personal Experiences from Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, I lived also in Europe and the Middle East.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington DC. Six hours to Frankfurt/Munich/London, then nine hours to DC.
3. How long have you lived here?
Since summer 2014.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Big houses, Arabic style, no storage, no walk-in closets, poorly built and finished. Pipes are leaking, electricity is causing problems, etc.
But it is close to the embassy in the Diplomatic Quarter. Some housing is within walking distance, and some requires driving, up to a 15-minute drive.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Some local products, especially produce items, are cheaper than in the USA, but imported goods are more expensive. No alcohol ,no religious items, no gambling accessories. Clothes are more expensive, and there are no changing rooms for women (as that would lead to rapes -according to their beliefs).
We use the military commissary for American items.
3. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Plenty, but they are more expensive than in in the USA, and food quality and service are average. It is hit and miss. You cannot have alcohol with your meal, there is no pork, and you must observe prayer time when everything is closed. If you are a couple or a woman, you have to be seated in the "family section" with screaming kids around you. Some top-level restaurants do not accept kids, but the cost of a dinner for two there (without alcohol of course) is 200 USD.
4. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Some ants, mosquitoes - not a big problem.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
APO.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Around 8 USD for an hour, widely available, but the quality is poor.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Embassy and Annex have gyms for free. In the diplomatic quarter there are some facilities, but they are very expensive. You have to join them if you want to attend classes.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Accessible, no problems with it.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are some secret masses organized by embassies.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English is enough.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes, poor or non-existent infrastructure.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
There is no public transport, and we cannot use taxis for security reasons. Just recently, Uber was accepted. We use the motor pool all the time, and they are a Godsend. However the Embassy management is trying limit the use of the motorpool by imposing new rules - just to make our life even more difficult
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Jeep or something like it. Women cannot drive. The drivers in KSA are the worse in the world. Everyday I see accidents or fender/benders. Traffic is horrendous. Drivers do not obey any regulations. You will see a 9-year-old driving full speed and the mother sitting in the front seat with an infant on her lap.
Lots of people are to afraid to drive here.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, at around 150 USD monthly, but it is choppy and slow.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Buy here, or bring unlocked from USA.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
There is one vet that everyone is using. You need lots of documents to bring pet in. Dogs tend to be stolen.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There is no bilateral agreement, so spouses cannot work on the local economy unless they give up their diplomatic passport. There are some options in the embassy. Some spouses are working unofficially in the schools.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Women have to wear abayas. 90% of Saudi women are completely covered, leaving just the eyes. Men have to cover arms and knees.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Terrorists blowing themselves up every week. The bomb factory was just discovered, and some Westerners were shot and killed. The embassy was closed for a few days, and all the time we hear warnings. War at the borders, ISIS has its cells in KSA. Since the beginning of this year, over 1000 people have been arrested for suspicion of terrorist activities. Our kids' school looks like a prison, with guards holding machine guns outside, barbed-wire fences, and tanks. But it is a safe post, according to the State Department, so they just took away the danger pay!
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Dust allergies, MERS recently. Medical care is okay but not up to western standards.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Very unhealthy when sand storms hit, otherwise good.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Very hot and dry from May to November ( 40-50 C), nice , cooler weather during the remaining months.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are different types of International schools available. My experience with the American International School is described in the school reports section.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, a few.
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Some at school. My kids play soccer at the Arab club (which I found myself online) and they thrive. It is life-saving, because otherwise they would be crazy bored. But it is also expensive.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Big size, low morale. Americans working for the embassy are unhappy in general. The management is trying to take as many privileges from them as possible: limiting the motor pool, perhaps on closing the Annex-recreational center, limiting embassy events, etc. Danger pay has been taken away.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Not many, as I wrote before. Mostly parties at different embassies in DQ, dinners, trips to the desert. On the whole, it is very boring.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Maybe for families with small kids, when a trip to the park and swimming pool is enough. There is not much to do here , no sports events ( women cannot participate), no movies, no theaters, no concerts, no museum, no night clubs. Singles cannot mingle with locals of the opposite sex outside the Diplomatic Quarter and compounds.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
If you want to be lashed for your homosexuality or killed in the name of the sharia law you are welcome to come here.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Where do I start? There is only one religion: Islam, and that is it. If you believe otherwise, check the answer above.
Women are second-class citizens, along with the Asian/Black population. There are places where women cannot enter (sports venues). They cannot drive cars, and there are special sections for them in shops and offices.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Familiarizing with culture, meeting members of the Saudi Royal family.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
You can go to the desert, visit 1 or 2 tourist spots in KSA, that is it.
If you are Muslim you can go to Mecca.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Carpets, some furniture. Unfortunately almost everything is made in India/Pakistan.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Living in a secluded country, not accessible for tourists.
10. Can you save money?
Maybe some, but since the danger pay has been removed I do not think so.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I do not think so.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Freedom.
3. Do you have any other comments?
Saudi people are usually nice and friendly. Lots of them studied abroad, and they have modern outlook. However, the conservative/orthodox attitude prevails. Public beheadings, treating house help/workers like slaves, road rage, untouchables, members of royal families, not respecting human rights, and (frankly speaking) the ugly surroundings make staying here very difficult.
