Riyadh, Saudi Arabia Report of what it's like to live there - 10/13/17
Personal Experiences from Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, we have been posted to Canberra, Tokyo, Okinawa, Ankara (twice) and Budapest.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, D.C. I'd guess eight hours to Frankfurt, and about eight more to Riyadh via Lufthansa.
3. How long have you lived here?
Our original tour was two years, but we extended for another year because we actually enjoyed living in Saudi Arabia, so just short of three years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. State Department dependent.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
There is U.S. embassy-owned housing, which is comfortable and well-maintained (although very oddly configured), with most of the comforts of home.
There is also embassy-leased housing, which is in general shoddily constructed, poorly maintained, and almost totally lacking in storage space except for some kitchen cabinets and small closets, so people are often forced to purchase furnishings like bathroom vanities, medicine cabinets, kitchen and bathroom shelving, storage closets and such themselves. Embassy-leased housing can also be subject to flooding and sewage problems. Newer units lack wired telephones, Internet connections and cell phone coverage (and no hope for any of that for a while, at least while we were at post).
Some of the older leased houses are quite nice -- like ours -- but still have serious problems concerning water storage and the lack of any kind of cool water in hot weather. If you're coming to post and have a choice, I would say go for embassy-owned housing, and definitely try to avoid the newer leased units -- life will be quite difficult in them until they're "broken in."
Most housing is fairly close to the embassy, except for the very newest units, which are in the middle of nowhere.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
It's said that "everything" is available here, and to a certain extent that's true, but it often isn't the quality Americans would expect. For example, frozen vegetables have thawed and been refrozen, almost always, and are simply a waste of money. You can find things like American mayonnaise and cheese, but they are often past their expiration date and have obviously gone bad. Meat and fresh vegetables tend to be OK, and sometimes excellent.
You can find most normal household care items, or substitutes, but it does take a while to sort out what the products are actually for. In general, we have found food and supplies in local supermarkets to be pretty expensive.
There is a military base about an hour away which is a pain to get to, but the products are fairly reliable when they're in stock, except for the fact that they freeze things like sour cream and cheese for long shelf life, and the results are often disastrous. Better to get those kinds of things in the local markets.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Specialty items such as cosmetics, personal hygiene brands that you want in particular, maybe American food items that could be hard to find (like horseradish, your favorite spices, perhaps a certain kind of rice, real mayonnaise that hasn't spoiled or expired). You also might be able to find the American products you like at the military base. In any case, you don't have to ship a lot of food because you'll always find it or a substitute somewhere here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Pretty much every conceivable fast food outlet is here. We ate at McDonald's a couple of times, which was quite a cultural experience with the booths curtained off for privacy. Riyadh also has a vibrant restaurant scene, and you can find almost any kind of food you're craving, from Italian to Armenian.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes, bees and wasps getting in the door when open, but overall nothing terrible.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We have an APO (military post office) available to us as well as the diplomatic pouch. There was a problem with theft of APO items when we arrived in 2013, but that seems to have been resolved. For any valuable items, I would still recommend having them sent by pouch, which although slower, is more secure. It's also necessary for things like DVDs, which the Saudi authorities may find objectionable and confiscate.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Domestic help was not so easy to find when we arrived; the CLO was at a total loss as to how we should go about getting somebody and said her list was completely out of date. Luckily a friend knew a Nepali man who did work for her, and I hired him. He left something to be desired in the small things like dusting but did the big jobs well, such as cleaning up the enormous amount of sand and dust that accumulate in just hours here. I paid him 300 SAR for a day's work, so around US$80 for eight hours. I also had a gardener to whom I paid more. Both of them worked for us the entire three years we were in Riyadh.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
You might have problems with your bank using your debit card in Saudi Arabia. It took us several calls to the SDFCU to let them know that we actually lived in Riyadh and to please stop blocking our card. Credit cards could have the same problem. It's really best to cash checks at the Embassy.
4. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None -- almost everybody can speak English after a fashion, although it would be helpful to know a little bit of Arabic, even just to be polite.
5. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
I didn't pay close attention, but my guess would be yes, there would be many physical obstacles.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
There are no local trains or buses, and taxis were prohibited for us to use anywhere in the country, although when we were leaving the embassy was arranging for us to be able use Uber. In general, though, you will either have to rely on the embassy's motor pool or bring your own car. There are also embassy shuttles to supermarkets and such, but the "system" for pickup to get home seemed pretty poor to me. One important note is that while we were there, some restrictions had been imposed on mens' use of the motor pool since they're able to drive in Saudi Arabia. At that point in time there was a push to get new arrivals to bring their own cars. Quite frankly, the drivers are crazy and dangerous in Riyadh, so I could understand why even men wouldn't want to drive there.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Many people had SUVs but we didn't, and our small BMW was just fine, although getting it serviced was a challenge. If you're planning to drive out in the desert, then a 4WD is mandatory. There was absolutely no risk of car jacking or burglary, but there certainly was the risk of an accident on the road.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Not in most of the housing; certainly not in the newer construction that is located on the outskirts of the Diplomatic Quarter. I paid about US$100 a month for what was supposed to be a high-speed Internet connection because I needed it for my remote job, but it slowed to a crawl quite often during the evening and crashed frequently. I can't even imagine what people do if they don't have a wired telephone line and thus no chance of having this so-called high-speed connection. People obviously find alternate ways to get Internet in their homes, but most residences don't have it ready to use the moment you move in.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
I brought my iPhone from home and bought a local chip, and it was fine. Be sure that your domestic phone is unlocked, though, before coming here. The U.S. embassy issues some phones as well, but they're mainly labeled in Arabic and hard to use. Some of the newer housing has no cell phone coverage, or very spotty at best, plus no wired telephones, so I guess in that case it doesn't really matter what kind of cell phone you have.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No, they don't need to be quarantined, but you must go through a huge amount of work to obtain an import permit for them (as a "guard dog"), and they absolutely cannot be transported during the summer. There was a vet on the military base, and he pointed us to a local vet clinic that was very good.
Interestingly enough, I found that the Saudis are curious about dogs, even if they claim not to like them. On one occasion my husband was walking our dog on the DQ, and a car with a Saudi family stopped. The father asked if his kids could "meet" our dog. My husband said yes and got her to sit. The kids got out of the car, lined up, waved to our dog, got back in the car and drove off. A real life encounter with a dog! In another instance, I was walking our dog when a man shouted from a passing car, "Nice looking dog!" then proceeded to follow me home. That worried me a bit, but it turned out he was with a female friend, which was surprising in itself, and they both loved dogs. I wish I had taken a picture of them sitting on the sidewalk petting our dog. We kept in touch, and they became good acquaintances.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not really as I didn't work on the local economy, but rather had a newspaper editing job that I did remotely from home. There might be some teaching jobs, but my understanding is that those are pretty dreadful (and I'm also not sure dependents can take them without work permits). Most dependents work at the embassy or related organizations. A telecommuting job could also work if you are lucky enough to get a house that can sustain a high-speed connection.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
American women don't need to wear an abaya or headscarf at the embassy or when performing their job on the outside, but an abaya at the very least is required in public, and unless you want to get stopped (or worse) by the muttawa (religious police), it's advisable to wear a headscarf as well and at a minimum, have one with you, always. If you get caught without a headscarf, you can be thrown out of shopping malls and such (and people have been). I didn't have to wear an abaya on the Diplomatic Quarter as there were no muttawa there, but the entire place was full of immigrant workers (and a lot of Saudis live there as well), so unless you like constantly being gawked at by very large groups of men, an abaya is recommended. Men seemed to be able to wear what they want, except for shorts.
One comment on the subject of abayas and headscarves: While we were living in Riyadh, there was a movement among younger embassy women to get the ambassador to issue a statement saying the choice is up to the individual as to what they wear in country. Of course it is, in theory, but the culture is what it is, and nobody is going to change it until it's ready to be changed. It would be unthinkable to wear Western-style or immodest clothing in some Riyadh neighborhoods and parts of the country, and could even be dangerous given how ultra-conservative it is. When we were getting ready to move to Riyadh, I was dead set against having to wear an abaya (and almost didn't go because of it), but in the end I grew used to them and even liked them. I found a designer who made stunning abayas, which made them less objectionable to wear, and in fact I couldn't bear to give them away when we left (although can't figure out where to wear them now ;-)).
I think women just have to be open minded and flexible about this situation, and if you simply can't tolerate the rules and are going to be constantly resentful, it's best to leave, or not come at all.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
It's a high-threat terrorism threat post in a volatile region of the world, so one always has to be aware of one's surroundings. We were forbidden from taking taxis for security reasons, which can make getting around difficult unless you have a car or use the motor pool. There is no public transportation system, but I'm sure even if there was, we wouldn't be able to use that, either, for reasons of security. That said, I never felt unsafe or threatened there, even when alone in a park at night.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The sand in the air is unhealthy and contributes to upper respiratory ailments. I was admitted to a private Saudi hospital three times while in Riyadh (for the same problem), and had two surgeries, and the hospital, quality of care and doctors were all excellent. It was also a very interesting cultural experience ;-).
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Not good. The amount of sand and dust in the air is phenomenal. I have read that some 4,000 tons of sand descends on Riyadh every month.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It's incredibly hot in the summer, with temperatures going up to 120F, but oddly enough, tolerable, even in a black abaya when out in public, partially due to the almost total lack of humidity in the air. For six months of the year, the weather is delightful, sort of autumn-like, and it even gets cold at night since Riyadh is situated in the middle of the Arabian Desert. Our first year there, we had a huge amount of rain in fall, which caused much flooding in embassy-leased housing since there is often no adequate drainage in homes and gardens (or on the roads, for that matter). One problem with the climate was that we couldn't get any cold (or even cool) water during the hot months. The embassy finally tried to fix the situation with our water tank, which was unprotected and unshaded on our roof, with some but not total success. This was a problem for four leased houses, but not for the rest of the community.
An aside about the heat: We went to Iceland one August on holiday, which was brutally cold, even then. When we returned to Riyadh, it was a relief to step off the plane into the 110 degree F weather ;-).
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
People seemed happy enough in Riyadh -- I expected everybody to be miserable, but they weren't. Embassy employees often extend their tours there, and some outside of the embassy community have stayed on for years. I don't know the size of the expatriate community, but I'd say fairly large.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
People seemed to have get-togethers at home. I worked most of the time so didn't really have a social life, except for the occasional embassy function or party/dinner with friends.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I think it's fine for families and couples; it could be difficult for single women since they can't drive and it's sometimes difficult and inadvisable to go places on your own. Being part of a couple, I think a woman has much more of a chance to interact with locals, too.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I don't know personally, but there must have been some gay or lesbian expats there. Homosexuality is forbidden by law, so I would be pretty careful.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Well, certainly with gender prejudice -- if you're a woman, you're already a second-class citizen. Religions other than Islam are not tolerated, and Christians can't openly celebrate Christmas and such, so religious prejudice, definitely. There are many black Saudis, so I don't think that kind of prejudice is a problem; however, if you're Southeast Asian or Filipino, as many of the immigrant laborers are, you might run into some problems of being treated like household help.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Within the country we traveled to Jeddah, much less conservative than Riyadh and a beautiful city on the Red Sea; to Mada'in Saleh near Medina, a fascinating necropolis built by the Nabateans, who also built Petra in Jordan; to the mountainous province of Asir, which was a breath of cool, fresh air with fantastic scenery; and to Dhahran in the eastern provinces, where Desert Design, a great Saudi handcraft store, is located. We also went north on a tour to a camel beauty pageant, which was a most unique and enjoyable experience.
We also traveled around the Gulf, twice to Oman (my favorite country in the region), to Doha several times (gorgeous city architecturally), and to Bahrain and the Emirates (the grand mosque is a must-see in Abu Dhabi). We had been to Kuwait before and saw absolutely no reason to return.
As to my best experience during our three years in Saudi Arabia, it was without doubt one day in Diriyah, an old city in Riyadh, where I had been photographing the gate to a private home. Suddenly a man drove up and started speaking to me in Arabic. I didn't understand and thought I must have done something wrong (and headed to our car), but he said, "Wait, my brother will talk to you." His brother was the patriarch and spoke fluent English, and he invited us into their home for lunch and to spend the afternoon visiting in their garden. I don't think I've ever experienced such hospitality from total strangers, and it's an experience I'll always treasure. We had several other similar encounters, and all were enjoyable, but I'll never forget that one.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
We drove around Riyadh extensively as I was unable to walk for three months due to a broken foot, and much to my surprise, it's a city full of beautiful, innovative architecture, all of which I photographed. We used to "cruise" local neighborhoods for the purpose of taking pictures -- many of the homes are literally palaces or very close to it, and they all have spectacular gates. It became a challenge for me to document these fabulous houses, and it gave us a glimpse into the Saudi lifestyle.
For people who aren't into photographing the local architecture, Diriyah in Riyadh is a fascinating old city to visit, featuring a UNESCO World Heritage site. Janadriyah, the annual cultural festival, is well worth going to. Oddly enough, shopping malls, of which there are a countless number in Riyadh, can be entertaining, especially during the summer. And the camel souk on the outskirts of the city, was quite interesting. The old part of downtown Riyadh, where Deera Souk is located, is great to wander around as well. Just don't go on a Friday as that's when executions take place in the main square next to the grand mosque.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There isn't much in the way of local crafts here, except for camels. However, there is an excellent shop in Dhahran that makes tables from old Saudi doors, frames tribal masks and has a superb collection of Saudi art. There is also the gold souk in Riyadh if that interests you. Additionally, one can buy designer abayas, which are more expensive than what you'll find in the souks, but are also exquisite and make having to wear one much more tolerable (enjoyable, even).
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
A very different culture, beautiful weather in fall and winter, a brilliant blue sky, interesting places to explore if you just look for them, incredibly hospitable people (the Saudis). And if you're a photographer like me, an endless variety of innovative architecture and unusual sights to capture.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I wish I had known that it isn't as bad as people who haven't lived in Saudi Arabia make it out to be; in fact, it can be an enjoyable place to be posted. I also wish I hadn't been told tall tales about how I wouldn't be able to do any photography in the country. It's not true, and I in fact did a huge body of work in three years' time. You just need to be careful and unobtrusive, and remember not to photograph people without their permission (which they will often give). I only got stopped once, in a shopping mall, when I thought I was hidden from the view of the guards. Wrong, but I got my picture anyway.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I'd come back for another posting without any hesitation, although I think things could get more difficult there when they finally have a reformist king.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Heavy winter clothes, but bring warm clothes at least for the cold winters. Riyadh is in the middle of the desert, but contrary to what most people think, it cools down considerably in fall and winter.
4. But don't forget your:
Polarized sunglasses -- absolutely necessary with the brilliant sun here.
5. Do you have any other comments?
As I mentioned before, I didn't want to move to Riyadh and almost stayed in Budapest, but at the last moment I decided to give it a try. I fell in love with the country on our first weekend there, when we were taken to Deera Souk for the purpose of buying some abayas. I had thought Saudi women were totally enveloped in pure black, nameless, faceless people without any way to express themselves. But that night in the souk I noticed that every one of them had some kind of decoration or even "bling" on their abayas, and I realized it was a fashion statement and that life there would be more interesting than I had thought. Unfortunately, I didn't get an abaya that evening because the stores kept throwing the customers out and closing until the muttawa had passed by (apparently they were afraid of being accused of selling "flashy" abayas).
As a result, I enjoyed our three years in Riyadh -- it was a fascinating cultural experience, and one I'd recommend to anybody who is open to being exposed to a different way of life. At the risk of sounding silly, I might even call it a "hidden gem" of a posting -- hardly anybody chooses to go there the first time, but they often don't want to leave and end up extending, even returning for another tour. People make friends in the embassy and expat community and never seem to have a shortage of things to do, and somehow it becomes a comfortable way of life, despite some of the hardships. We have been invited back in 2018 for the opening of a building my husband was involved in planning, and quite frankly, I can't wait. And it will give me a chance to wear some of those beautiful abayas I couldn't bear to part with when we finally left last year ;-).
You can view my photographs of Saudi Arabia on my website: http://www.pbase.com/helenpb/riyadh
