Riyadh, Saudi Arabia Report of what it's like to live there - 10/21/08
Personal Experiences from Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No--Tunis, Tunisia.
2. How long have you lived here?
Two years.
3. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
There are direct Saudi Airlines flights from NYC and DC on Saudi Airlines, but If work for the USG, must fly through Europe. About 14 hours.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
State Department.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
USG housing is all located on the diplomatic quarter, which is very nice and large. A lot of security, but because the security is Saudi military and police, I never trusted it as they were sleeping most often or only concerned with women/alcohol and not threat issues.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
A little cheaper than the U.S.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Humidifier.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Everything is available--all fast food, Lebanese food, etc.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Available and cheap, as Saudis do not work and have maids/servants/ do everything for them.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Readily available and trustworthy.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
None--per our Saudi friends, all other religions are illegal (HARAM) as are Bibles and crosses or any service.
5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Available and cheap.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English is fine.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
There is no system to help people with disabilities.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
Right.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No and not safe, for fear of kidnapping by Muslim extremists.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Anything is fine, although U.S. diplomats are not allowed to drive vehicles off of the Diplomatic Quarter.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, not that expensive, fast and of course, very censored.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Easy to purchase in country and not that expensive.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
IVG line or locally purchased cell phones.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Excellent, although the wonderful religious authority just made dogs and cats illegal--this hopefully will never be enforced, however.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Yes, but not for women.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Dress, but because of the heat, no jacket.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Very dusty in Riyadh because there is no water and it is a desert. Very little rainfall and no humidity. Jeddah is very humid.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Obvious terrorist issues, considering that this country is where it all started. Lots of terrorist sympathizers here.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Excellent health care.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot and cooler in the winter months--gets pretty cold.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There is a very good American School in Riyadh but now, no kids are allowed at post.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Extremely large and because of the difficulties of dealing with Saudis, the expats hang out together a lot.
2. Morale among expats:
Everyone hates the Saudis but they stay for the money. Liquor and fun is illegal, as are movie theaters, bowling, sheesha in Riyadh, etc.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
If you are a diplomat, you can have fun. The Saudis drink more than any group of people I have ever seen, so they always want to go to parties.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Terrible. The Saudi system is predicated upon absurd relgious extremism and there is little opportunity to date. If Saudi men see any women, many of them are very aggressive and assume that the women are prostitutes. Taking a women out at night, if she is not your wife, sister, etc., is very risky for the women. Diplomats cannot be arrested, but others will be.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I am not gay, but per my gay colleagues, so many Saudi men are gay and because this is just a male dominated society, no one bothers two guys together. Huge gay percentage in Riyadh.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Saudis look down on everyone and in particular, black people and other Arabs. If you are a white American, they will generally be ok, but if you are darker, look out.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Go to malls, run away from Muttawa (religious police), make fun of Saudis for their amazing hypocricy.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There is very little Saudi culture, so everything you buy is Indian, Pakistani, etc.
9. Can you save money?
Yes, but you need to get out every 6 weeks which can be expensive.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, but not if I was a woman.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Hope to engage Saudi women or Saudi men on issues of importance.
3. But don't forget your:
Patience and money to leave Saudi every 6 weeks for some freedom and escape from hypocricy.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Anything about Bin Laden, terrorism, etc.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Anything about Bin Laden, terrorism, etc.
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
7. Do you have any other comments?
Its a sad thing because so many Saudis are nice people. The society, however, is so distorted and run by extremist ideas. Everything there is dictated by prayer times, etc. That is fine, but it can get difficult for non-Muslims or Muslims who want some freedom. As an example--literally--do a google search---an Imam there just called for the death of Mickey Mouse!
