Johannesburg, South Africa Report of what it's like to live there - 10/28/19
Personal Experiences from Johannesburg, South Africa
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No; this was my sixth tour. I have served previously in Southern Africa, Europe, and the Middle East.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
It doesn't matter where you live in the U.S. Getting back and forth between South Africa and your home is always a long grueling experience. After making many such trips, I have decided the direct flights, though shorter, are more miserable than breaking it up with a layover in London. But that's me. If you can finagle an upgrade to business, that will make a huge difference. In my numerous trips back and forth, I only managed to swing a cheap upgrade once, but boy was it worth it.
3. How long have you lived here?
I was in Johannesburg for three years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is generally good and nicely-sized. Some of the homes are laid out in an odd fashion (mine was) that makes entertaining a challenge, but others tend to have a large central room where you can host people for cocktails, etc. Many houses have small pools - kids seem to like them, but most adults admit they never use them. I had a pool and never set foot in it once. Most yards (aka "gardens") are small.
Commuting times tend to be about 15 minutes in traffic for most U.S. Consulate employees. However, if traffic lights are not working, that can snarl traffic horribly. Frequently traffic lights are not working either due to malfunction or because the copper wiring has been stolen (happens a lot).
Quirks:
-There are no electric outlets in bathrooms, by law! This was a surprise to me.
-Because winter is short and mild, most houses aren't insulated in the way U.S. houses are. As a result, the interior of your house can be quite cold in the winter. Sometimes it is colder inside the house than it is outside! Since heating is from wall units, but not every room has one, most people end up purchasing small electric heaters to supplement.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can basically buy almost anything your heart desires in Joburg. For specialty items, you might have to work harder to locate them than you would in a city of comparable size in the U.S. (e.g. ingredients for Asian cuisines). Oddly, given the amount of coast the country has, there isn't much in the way of fresh fish. Some restaurants get fresh fish deliveries, but only a few grocery stores do (and I sometimes think the fish have been frozen and then thawed...)
I would say most food products are a bit cheaper in SA. Some products - like beef steaks and lamb - are remarkably cheap, even in restaurants. And of course there are products you can easily get in SA that are hard to find in the U.S. (e.g. porcini bullion cubes!) I buy lots of cleaning supplies, but haven't paid attention to whether it's more expensive in SA or the U.S.
Wine - you'll hear about SA wine: very inexpensive for truly outstanding wines. The sticker shock when you return to the U.S. is palpable.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Nothing, really.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are tons of restaurants featuring all major cuisines - everything from Korean BBQ to Italian to Lebanese to traditional South African. Even the most expensive restaurants in the city are significantly cheaper than in the U.S.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
None that I experienced beyond normal things (wall spiders, small lizards, etc).
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Diplomatic pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Readily available and relatively inexpensive.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Lots of gyms. People seem to like Virgin Active, though there are other options. They don't tend to stay open late into the evening, unfortunately.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
You can use credit cards everywhere. Lots of people in SA do not carry cash on them. ATMs are common and I used them regularly without problem. In some locations, you might run the risk of getting mugged by someone casing the machine. Happens from time to time.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Most faiths and denominations are represented.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None - but I learned basic greetings in nearly all the official languages, which helped me in the office and on the street. As everyone likes to point out on this site, the locals appreciate any effort to learn their language and culture.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
I would think Joburg would actually be better for people with physical challenges than most cities on the continent.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Mostly no on "safe" and yes on "affordable."
Most people rely on Uber. Do not take yellow taxis, minibuses, etc. The Gautrain, which runs from Joburg to both the airport and Pretoria is safe, clean, and dependable. Mission personnel use it with great frequency, especially to go to the airport. An accident on the highway (a regular occurrence) can turn a 20 minute car trip to the airport into an 1.5 hour ordeal. With Gautrain, the trip from Sandton station to the airport is always 15 minutes. You can't beat it.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
I like to go off road, camp in the bush, etc. so a 4x4 with high clearance, but other people like compact cars. Burglary/carjacking is a real risk - especially burglary. My car was broken into once. Generally, leave nothing visible on any seat - put it all in the trunk.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. Once you have a phone service, you can get internet turned on. Shouldn't take more than a day or two.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Great vets and kennels for dogs.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There is no way to sugar-coat it: the risk of being a victim of crime in Joburg is pretty high. Lots of people experience it one form or another (burglarized cars is a big one). And some parts of the city are not safe to be in at night. Having said that, I traveled throughout the city extensively and often late into the evening without any problem. Be aware, and try to be in the company of locals if you are in a dodgy area.
2. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot dry summers - but surprisingly cool in the shade. Mild winters that generally have cool days and colder nights. November through February, roughly, is the rainy season.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Morale is generally good. Biggest complaint is that Joburg isn't a walking city. You have to drive everywhere. Sort of like Houston, TX.
2. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
For singles, yes - dating in Joburg would be like dating in NYC. I think all the major social media dating platforms are used here.
For couples, super great: from great restaurants to in-country travel (think wineries, etc) to incredible wildlife/wilderness experiences, adventurous couples will have a blast.
For families, same as for couples. Kids love safari (or so I hear). One downside is that the security situation limits what older teens can do in ways that they sometimes find frustrating.
3. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I think the answer is generally that the situation is relatively good, but SA still has a lot of problems on this front. There is a vibrant LGBT scene in Joburg. None of my single LGBT friends had any problem dating (that I was aware of).
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
I thought so.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
The country is still working through Apartheid and the damage it did to the country. Income inequality is staggeringly bad here. Most of the country's wealth is still controlled by the white population, so there is a push among the majority for the government to address access to services, employment, and education. It's very much a work in progress.
There have been a lot of violent protests against immigrants (largely from other parts of Africa). This will remain an issue for the foreseeable future.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
How fun it was. I'd rather live in Joburg than Cape Town (though the latter definitely has a more majestic setting).
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
With pleasure.
