Johannesburg, South Africa Report of what it's like to live there - 10/26/09
Personal Experiences from Johannesburg, South Africa
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes.
2. How long have you lived here?
2+ years. Currently living in Joburg.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Educator.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
There are 2 direct flight on Delta from DC and Atlanta that are 17 hours. You can fly through London or other European cities. It is about 10-11 hours from the UK and Europe. SA Air is nice. SA AIr and British Airways have daily flights from Heathrow.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
There are beautiful housing facilities in Jo'burg and the suburbs. All are pretty much gated and walled in. Traffic is crazy here! The roads cannot accommodate all the cars. The gov't keeps talking about expanding William Nicol (a main road that leads into Jo'burg), but nothing has happened in the 2.5 years I have lived here.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Woolworths is quite possibly the best grocery store on earth! They are amazing. You will hear everyone say they got it at "Woolies". There are also a lot of other options. You can get US brands for a bit more, but the local brands are really good. Toiletries are widely available and reasonably priced. You can get local, US and UK brands.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
You can get pretty much anything here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
KFC and McDonald's. There are local chains as well. Nando's chicken is pretty good. There are tons of restaurants and it is very cheap to eat out.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Lots of bugs and no screens in any of the windows. Another thing you just get used to. There are sliverfish in houses. Mosquitoes, but no malaria risk here.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
The SA mail system is unreliable. Customs likes to take things from the mail. If you need it, you must use a courier, which is super expensive.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
It is widely available and cheap. I pay R150 (about $20) for one full day. It is very cheap to have a live-in maid or nanny.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are gyms everywhere. South Africans are obsessed with working out and looking good.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
You can use a credit card everywhere except to buy petrol--you need a SA credit card to do that. ATMs are all over the place. There is just a ton of corruption in Joburg, so sometimes you have difficulty using foreign cards.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are all kinds of churches available.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes and yes. The local tv (DSTV) has local, UK, US and african shows.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English is widely spoken.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Should be ok--there are elevators and ramps in most places.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
The local taxis vans are INSANE! The locals take them. They have no rules and drive on the side of the road to pass you. There are new buses--not sure how that is going. The trains are being built for the World Cup.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
You do not need an SUV unless you plan to do a lot of camping and game drives. We drive on the same side as the UK. Cars are expensive here and it is very hard to find an automatic. Parts are expensive. There are lots of carjackings and smash-and-grabs. Never leave anything visible in your car.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
They call it "wireless", but I have a giant antenna attached to a long cord running through my house. There are all different plans. It is fairly reasonable. You buy it by bandwidth, so the plans are different than in the US. It is slow but not too bad. Another thing you just get used to.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Cellphones are expensive to use here. Most people use them to SMS (text). Everyone has a cell phone.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Nope.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
I hear they are cheap and very good.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Lots to volunteer at. The American School always needs good subs.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
South Africans love to dress up. The women even dress up to go shopping.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
No real worries here. The tap water is said to be some of the cleanest in the world.
2. What immunizations are required each year?
Just the regulars.
3. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Where do I start? Jo'berg has a very bad reputation for being dangerous. There is quite a bit of crime, but it seems random. Lots of break-ins, burglaries, carjackings and "smash and grabs"-this is where a person will smash your window and grab a bag or any other item that is on the car seat. A simple way to remedy this is to not have anything on the seat. There are security guards, fences and walls EVERYWHERE--again, something you just get used to. There does seem to be a rise in violent crimes this is usually a carjacking or burglary gone bad. I am a single female, and I do feel safe here. You just need to be cautious and hope for the best. It is not nearly as scary as they make it out to be!
4. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Great medical care. No worries there.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It is quite possibly the best weather in the world! It does get cold in the winter and in the evenings, and none of the buildings or houses is heated--which takes some getting used to. Otherwise it is sunny, sunny, sunny! And little to no humidity. The weather is one of the best things about Joburg.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
AISJ has a good reputation. It follows the American and IB Diploma curriculums. It serves ov er 60 nationalities, so it is truely international. It is located closer to the northern suburbs of Joburg (Fourways, Lonehill Sandton) than to Pretoria. There is a small AISJ campus in Pretoria up to grade 6. The local SA schools are also very good, they just follow the southern hemisphere school year.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
AISJ can accommodate only minor learning disorders and special needs.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are numerous good daycares. AISJ has a pre-K as well.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes--at the American School, and there are tons of other sports programs in the communities.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Pretty large. Just not close-knit, due to how easy it is to live here.
2. Morale among expats:
Pretty high. It is very easy to live here.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Eating out, clubs, bars, braiis (BBQ's). Great theatre. An obnoxious casino--Montecasino--where all the teenagers hang out. TRAVEL!
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Good for all. There is lots to do and the travel opportunities are fantastic! Teens find it difficult, due to not having the freedom to go out on their own. Single women seem to have it a bit hard, as SA men are not very open to dating foreigners.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
There is a very active gay scene in Joburg. My gay friends say it is very welcoming and gay friendly here.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
SA is a very interesting place. There seems to be a lot of tension still due to apartheid. It is actually hard to explain. They have made great strides since 1994, but they have a LONG way to go. There is still much separation of races in the Jo'burg suburbs. And the economic divide is enormous--the very rich living a few miles from the really poor townships--which is one of the reasons for the high crime rate. There has been xenophobic violence in the townships due to the South Africans feeling that the Zimbabwe refugees (and others) are taking jobs from them.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There are tons of things to do. Great restaurants, theater, bars/clubs outdoor activities--something for everyone. The travel within SA and to other southern African countries is amazing! SA travel is pretty cheap. The travel has been my favorite part of living in SA.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
African crafts.
9. Can you save money?
Yes.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely--it has been fantastic!
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
heavy winter clothes.
3. But don't forget your:
sense of humor and sense of adventure. And your patience...you will needs tons of patience. It may look like the US here, but scratch the surface and you know it is Africa.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Tsotsi, anything about Mandela, Yesterday
7. Do you have any other comments?
South Africa is a fantastic country. South Africans are friendly and warm. They are just not too keen on getting close to people who will not be here forever. You will have so many great travel opportunities. The wine is to die for! I have yet to find a SA wine that I did not like! SA is a very traditional country. People tend to get married early and stay close to family. There are times you think you may be stuck in the 70's or something. Everything here is slow (except the taxis!) and African logic is not logical at all! Joburg is deceiving, as it looks a lot like the western world, but things do not seem to work right--which can be frustrating. Just remember TIA-"this is Africa" and you will be ok!
