Johannesburg, South Africa Report of what it's like to live there - 07/11/10
Personal Experiences from Johannesburg, South Africa
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Mexico City.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
There are direct flights offered daily by Delta. The flight to Atlanta is 15 hours. Other flights through KLM and AirFrance have layovers in Europe before reaching the U.S. total time varies but is usually about 18 -20 hours.
3. How long have you lived here?
1 year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Embassy/Consulate housing is generally on compounds. Generally a town house our stand alone house in an enclosed community with a security gaurd on call.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Woolworth's is the best grocery store with lots of fresh fruits and veggies and also premade dishes that actually taste fabulous; it is a little bit pricey, but in my opinion worth every penny. Pick n Pay and Checkers are also good but not as gourmet, but you can find everything there. Also Thrupp's is good for imported items, it's expensive but good for finding those hard to find U.S. items such as Campbell's Chicken Noodle Soup, etc. The deli there is also amazing.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
More laundry detergent. I am not a huge fan of the local stuff. And maybe Kleenex with lotion. Other than that, everything is here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Fast food chains include: Wimpy (hamburger place: it's gross), Steers (another hamburger place: it's okay), Nando's (grilled chicken: it's good), Anat (kebabs, schwarmas: it's good) KFC, and McDonalds are some of the Fast Food locations. Dine in resturants are plentiful and very good, there are a lot of good steak houses (Turn n Tender and Grill House are good), Greek (Plaka is good), Seafood (Fishmonger is good), African (Moyo is good and popular) and Italian (Asiago and Sala di Pepe are good) restaurants. Pricing is reasonable and in most cases cheaper than the U.S.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
not too bad, there are ants, spiders, and some weird looking bugs but nothing overwhelming.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
U.S. Govt. personnel use the pouch. Local mail isn't super reliable, but major couriers are available, and local mail isn't a complete disappointment if you have to use it.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Plenty and cheap.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
It feels like there is a gym on every corner here...Most people go to Planet Fitness or Virgin Active. Both gyms are nice and also offer luxury branches that are over the top, but if you like to indulge they are great.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
It's okay to use credit cards, but be careful identity theft does occur so make sure you have the appropriate protections in place. Using cards at major chains, etc. is usually okay. Also at restaurants if the waiter brings the machine to your table. ATMs are okay if you are security conscious, we usually use them only in malls, just make sure to not let anyone "help" you with the atm retrieval process and you will probably be okay.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Lots of churches here. From Mormon to Pentecostal to Catholic, to Muslim, to Dutch Reform Church to Methodist, you can probably find what you are looking for.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Most people use DSTV for cable. Cost is comprable to that in the U.S.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Almost everyone speaks English. The only issue is whether they understand your American accent and you understand the South African accent. But overall it's fine.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
There are not a lot of sidewalks, and if you are in a wheelchair, traffic doesn't slow down for you while you are in the street. Most malls, etc. have elevators and escalators.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Local taxis or buses are NOT used by Americans. There are other taxi services that are okay like Rose taxi an taxi for Women (pink cars). The Gautrain just opened and it might be good to get to the airport, etc. and cheaper than taxis.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Most people buy cars here b/c of the whole left hand drive situation. Most people get BMW, Honda, Nissan, Audi, Toyota, etc. Cars are more expensive here than in the U.S. and in my opinon have more mechanical problems not sure if it's the terrain or just bad maintanence. In Jo'burg roads are okay for the most part, but pot holes are here and there and outside of the city it can get pretty rocky if you intend to travel, but the major highway system if fine and paved, it's just the back country roads that are a problem sometimes. In Jo'burg sometimes the traffic lights are out and often the street lights do not work and with road construction it can be a little scary driving at night... Other than that it's fine and there really aren't too many problems. Crime/car jackings are a concern, but just be aware but don't be scared to leave the hosue.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet service is crappy. You buy packages based on the amountof bandwidth you use monthly, and it can get kind of expensive for slow service.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Cell phones are here and okay. You can pretty much get anything you want. If you don't plan on using them a lot, then maybe go for the prepaid option.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Depends on where they come from. My dog didn't have to be quarantined but I relied on a pet shipping co. to get everything in order b/c the whole process is complicated.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Pet care is good and readily available with private vets and 24 hour emergency facilities.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
I think it's hard to get a job because of the whole work-permit situation. Most spouses of government employees end up working at the consulate or the embassy. However, depending on your skill set, jobs are available on the local economy I have American friends who are not affiliated with the U.S. Govt. who had no problem finding a job.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
At work mostly business casual and formal if necessary. In public it's pretty casual.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Crime is criticle here, that being said you can enjoy life out in the open here but just need to be conscious of your surroundings and security in general.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Dry air is a pain in the winter, but other than that not too bad. Private health care is good.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality is good/moderate, but it gets really dry in the winter.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Climate is mild most of the time. Summers are nice with a bit of rain, but it does get kind of cold in the winters and there is no central air so bring your electric heating blankets.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I hear they are good.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Not sure, but probably accomodate.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Available and good too.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
yes.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Relatively large. At the consulate there are about 30 Americans, and there are a lot of Americans living on the local economy as well.
2. Morale among expats:
At the consulate things are okay, but count on seeking comfort outside of the office. There are enough sponsored events, but because post size is small, people feel left out or excluded from time to time because everyone knows when someone else is organizing something. Families and married couples love it here. Singles do fine, too, but should seek friendships outside of the consulate community because most events are family oriented.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Social life is good. Many lounges and Clubs if you like that. Restaurants are good. Good theatre, concerts and art, too. Among the embassy community, someone is always hosting a dinner or party.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's a good city for everyone.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Thriving gay/lesbian community here. Many colleagues seem to thrive here.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Xenophobia is a concern here, but not really for Americans; only for immigrants from neighboring African countries.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Travel. Cape Town and garden route are great.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There are so many day trips and short weekend trips travel is great. Swaziland is 3.5 hours away, Madikwe Game Reserve, Pilanesburg, Durban, etc. all very close. Also Dining is great. Night life is good. Shopping and craft markets all over.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
African crafts, diamonds, tanzanite, etc.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Living in SA is much like living in the U.S. in terms of accesibility to items of comfort. Travel within the country and to surrounding countries is fabulous. People are generally friendly.
11. Can you save money?
Yes, but not easily if you want to partake in all SA has to offer.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
sense of urgency, people take their time here.
3. But don't forget your:
barbeque utensils, safari gear, and frequent flyer miles card (you will be travelign a lot).
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Jozi Chic, The Power of One, Cry the Beloved Country, Kaffir Boy, Frommer's Guide to South Africa.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Invictus, Skin, and District 9.
6. Do you have any other comments?
It's a good posting overall.
