Pretoria, South Africa Report of what it's like to live there - 12/30/19
Personal Experiences from Pretoria, South Africa
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, we have also lived in Kathmandu and Nairobi.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Travel to the US is relatively easy with direct flights to Atlanta (16 hours) or to DC via a stopover mid-flight in Accra or Dakar. There are easy flight connections to Europe (12 hours) then to the US (6-8 hours).
3. How long have you lived here?
Just over two years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Work at the Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
In my opinion, housing is largely demoralizing. Some houses are close with large yards, pools, and large bedrooms. These seem to go to families with at least three children (no matter position/rank). We have a small (1,600 sqft) three bedroom house for four people with a nice yard. It's a 45 minute to 1.5 hour commute to work each way. Traffic is terrible in my opinion.
The house is close to the Pretoria campus of the American School. My child's commute is about 10 minutes to school. Most people live closer to work, and have about a 20 minute commute. Their children have about 30-45+ minutes (longer to get to JoBurg campus)--many are picked up around 6:00 to 6:15am and return from school around 4:30-5pm (or later). I do not feel the house has adequate storage (only a 6'x10' storage area) and no quarters for staff or space for guests.
There seem to be many issues with the houses. There are problems with electrical malfunctions and leaking roofs seem to be common and it seems to take many requests to get problems fixed.
Compounds tend to share a common driveway/entry and then have small private yards with fences between the houses for privacy. Some compounds cram 6 houses on a lot where there used to be just one. There seems to be a large diversity/disparity in housing based partly on family size and when you arrive (early in the transfer season is better).
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Nearly everything you need is here. Groceries for most items are cheaper than the US, especially meat and wine. Some items are more expensive such as tortilla chips, tortillas, pasta sauce, refried beans, laundry detergent--so we make our own or get through the pouch. Compared to our other posts the availability of food and supplies is so wonderful and amazing. Quality of produce is generally high, but the packaging is very plastic-intensive. Produce is almost always packaged in plastic.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
We bring salsa, tortilla chips, refried beans, and laundry detergent. Some spices and herbs can be expensive. We brought and acquired here seeds to plant lettuce, kale, and cilanto--all are much better than from the store and easy to grow.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Lots of varations of a theme--meat-intensive with lots of sauce in a family-friendly restaurant (play areas are common). There are proper nice restaurants with small, but interesting menus but we rarely go there. Uber-eats is popular and many restaurants participate or have delivery.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Ants, mosquitoes, (flying) termites, and flies are common depending on the season. South Africans do not believe in having or using screens to keep bugs out. The weather is usually nice enough to open windows, but there is the high likelihood is insects getting inside.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Pouch. Letters take about 3 weeks (either direction), receiving packages is slightly less. Local postal facilities are not adequate and thus we only use the pouch (wish we had a DPO).
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
We use a weekly cleaning service (someone takes care of all legal requirements for the staff!) for about R1900 ($150) per month. A gardener is about R400 per day. Live-in housekeepers are plentiful (but we don't want one or have the space). Live-out housekeepers are less plentiful.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Virgin gyms, a type of health club, are the most common. Fees are reasonable, but depend on the location and type of membership. Mountain biking and trail running are popular are dedicated and secure(ish) parks. Annual memberships are between $50 and $75. All have restaurants and playgrounds, many have showers, and some have attached gyms.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Cards are more common and secure than cash. A local bank account is necessary. Many payments (phone, etolls, school activity fees, etc) are only practically done through EFT through a local bank. Many online local merchants only accept a local card. ATMs are common, scams are robberies are common enough to be wary when using.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, for every Christian denomination I can think of and for synagogues as well.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English is more than enough. At stores and around the neighborhood/town, I get spoken to in Afrikaans. It's nice to know a little bit but not necessary. I haven't look into classes for any of the local languages.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Some, but the city/country make a lot of effort to have accessibility for disabled.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
People use Uber for local transportation. Gautrain goes into the airport and Sandton. There is not a convenient station in Pretoria. You'd still need Uber, motor pool, or to park the car at the station and drive home/work thereby reducing the time savings. Buses and 'taxis' should be avoided.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
There is a large automotive manufacturing industry here including BMW and Ford. Common makes are: Mercedes, BMW, Audi, Volvo, Ford, Toyota, and Subaru. Small SUVS have enough clearance for safaris (dirt roads and game viewing), visiting the region, and potholes. The highways are good and people will drive 140km. It's good to have a car with some quick acceleration to get through traffic or away from uncomfortable encounters.
Parts are generally common and easy to find from the major brands. Parts are slightly more expensive than the US. Note: oil changes seem to only be available from car dealers. They run R2000 to R3500 ($140 to $250) and can include tire rotation, a thorough inspection, and washing. Motor oil is expensive--roughly $100 for 4 liters (4.2 quarts)...
Smaller cars for commuting are better and some houses have very small garages that will not fit a large SUV.
There are great road networks throughout southern Africa making it possible to drive to Namibia, Zambia, and Mozambique. For the longer trips, it's nice to have a reliable vehicle with 4x4.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Getting the line from telkom can be an epic nightmare, it can take weeks or longer. Internet can be slow, goes down during load-shedding, and 'high speed' capped (80gb per month) is about $150.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Local provider is necessary. Data is expensive.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
My dog was quarantined for two weeks. I know of several people who had major problems getting their dogs into the country due to the tests required. I highly recommend using a local pet shipper such as Menlyn.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
It's not easy to find a local job. There is very high unemployment and a large group of qualified South Africans.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business, slightly casual.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Crime is still an issue. We don't let our children wonder around (malls, restaurants, etc) out of our sight. Lots of house robberies in the neighborhood. Be careful who you let into your house for work, maintenance, cleaning. During the day, it's safe to walk the dog, go for a run, and (local) children ride bikes without parents around.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Excellent care is available locally. There is an overreliance of antibiotics. It is a regional medevac destination.
Tap water is potable and fine.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality at the end of the dry season (October-November) can be pretty bad and causes some breathing difficulties, especially for children. (Mine was hospitalized.) Air quality is very good in summer with the rain. In winter, a haze sets in and there is lots of outdoor burning mostly for heat.
4. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
None to my knowledge.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Wonderful. The extremes range from 100 above in summer (December/January) to 30 in June/July. It's mostly dry and at about 4,500' elevation, there is usually enough cooling or warming that those extreme days still are comfortable.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Many schools operate on the southern academic calendar (January to December). Thus, switching a child from the northern academic calendar (August to June) would result in losing half-a-year coming to SA and probably another half if switching back to the northern when departing. There are some very good local and British options on the southern calendar. Most people use the American school (Joburg or Pretoria campuses) and the French school is relatively popular.
We have really loved the American school. The teaching quality is very high with dedicated and caring teachers. There is low staff turnover. We have some issues with the disparity between the Joburg and Pretoria campuses where are clearly more benefits for the Joburg campus than the Pretoria and the Joburg campus administration seems really disconnected from Pretoria and don't understand how it functions.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, many. Getting someone to answer the phone or reply to an email is a challenge. You'll probably need to show up in person to get their attention. My daughter's preschool (Morningstar Montessori) is great and costs about US$4000 per year. Note: preschools will be on the southern calendar and AISJ does a poor job is making ANY of the holidays overlap (or coincide with USG holidays).
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large, very large. Morale is good. People are generally very happy here. It's large enough city, country, and community that people can find their niche. That being said, getting settled and finding your niche can be difficult. You're pretty much on your own.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Find an activity, church, or hobby and you'll find some locals. Go outside and talk to your neighbors.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's very family-friendly, but seems to be good for singles and amazing for couples. There are so many places to go. For singles, there is a large expat community (diplomatic and professional) and a large numbers of professional locals from a similar culture to the US.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
The locals are friendly and welcoming. Due to the high income disparity, many of the embassy neighborhoods are not very diverse. It is changing, but slowly. I do not see many inter-racial families here, but there is several interracial expats families here. It may or may not be an issue.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
The country is very progressive, but old prejudices linger. There is relatively high gender equality and the country is making progress on racial prejudices.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
There is something great to see or do in every direction and in every part of the country. Cape Town is great, but too many people overlook Durban (including the beaches of Ballito). The mountain biking around town have been wonderful and great camping, biking, rock climbing around Waterval Boven. Staying in Marloth park just outside of Kruger has been great too. For a taste of something different, Eswatini (formerly Swaziland) and Mozambique provide an appreciated contrast to SA with hiking, biking, culture, and beaches. The country is huge and a serious tourist destination--come on R&R if you're not posted here.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There are so many people and things to do, there are few 'hidden gems.' The Big Red Barn at Irene market has a farmers/craft market a couple of times a month and the location includes an acrobranch, playground, biking, and a restaurant. You could easily spend the day there. There are other locations with similar family-friendly restaurant and activities.
There are plenty of movie theaters are malls. The malls across the country have most of the same stores and even restaurants. Grove mall has ice-skating and a ice hockey league.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Most of the stuff isn't interesting or especially unique to SA. People do buy a lot of wine and gin before departing.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
See above. A very comfortable and affordable city that is relatively quite that is like southern California but perhaps cleaner, cheaper, and safer.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Housing is small and poorly-maintained, in my opinion...worse than most other places.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Prejudices including what "real Africa" is like. SA is real Africa even if it has nice roads, clean water, and a large and vibrant culture.
4. But don't forget your:
Sense of adventure. It's a wonderful place, with some severe challenges, that is worth exploring and understanding.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
District 9 and something about Mandela.
6. Do you have any other comments?
South Africa is so more much than you think it is.
