Pretoria, South Africa Report of what it's like to live there - 06/01/08
Personal Experiences from Pretoria, South Africa
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Harare, Bucharest, Lilongwe.
2. How long have you lived here?
7 years.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
I am associated with the U.S. Embassy.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
8-9 hours from Europe, 15-16 hours from U.S.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Both compound houses and stand-alone houses; no apartments. Houses tend to be smaller than one expects for Africa.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Everything is available here. Local items are cheaper than the U.S. Imported things are expensive.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
U.S.-type pancake syrup (Mrs. Buttersworth, Log Cabin, etc.).
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
McDonald's, Subway, KFC, pizza joints, Italian, Chinese, Portuguese. No Mexican. Good steak houses.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We use the pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Readily available US$250-$300 per month.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
They are both commonly used here but credit card and ATM scams are on the increase.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes. Catholic, Anglican, Baptist, non-denominational, Islam
5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes. Newspapers about the same as U.S. DSTV about US$65-75 per month according to the exchange rate.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Imagine USA in the 1950s.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
Traffic moves on the left.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Most expats don't take them, but I believe the local buses and mini-buses are quite safe and affordable. The Pretoria/Joburg train is very cheap, but not safe.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
A left hand drive (US type) vehicle cannot be imported. Best to buy local. Cars are expensive. An SUV/4WD is not necessarily needed.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, about US$110-150 per month according to package.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Vodacom is the most popular. You also have others to choose from.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
Telkom, the local company, charges about 10 cents a minute to call the U.S. during cheap time; about 14 cents per during peak time. Either way you don't break the bank.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Very good pet care and plenty of kennels.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Don't know about those not affiliated with the Embassy, but any EFM who wants a job can get one in the Embassy. They are begging for people.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Moderate.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Violent crime is a big problem, but for U.S. Embassy families, RSO has installed electric fences; many are moving to compounds; Embassy is using armed patrol guards and 24-hour guards on the compounds. Yes, crime is definitely an issue, but with the right attitude and security stance, you can live a normal, enjoyable life.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Very good health care here.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Summers (November-February) are nice with thunderstorms. Winters (June-August) are generally sunny and cool. Other times thunderstorms and warm. Temperature never gets too hot or too cold.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
North American International School for K-8 and American International School of Johannesburg for K-12. Both schools are unique. NAIS offers low teacher-student ratio and is in Pretoria. AISJ is large but is 40-50 minute drive from Pretoria.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Neither school is good for special needs kids.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
My kids went to a good Montessori school. Other preschools abound.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large.
2. Morale among expats:
Ok, I guess. Worries about crime.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Plenty.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
For older kids it can be tough as there is always a lot of coordination involved for play dates etc., otherwise, good for families. Good for singles/couples.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
There is quite a big GL community.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
With apartheid in the not so distant past, there are still lingering issues. Also, society tends to be male-centric.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Game parks, cycling, hiking, horseback riding, beaches, Gold Reef City (amusement park), Cape Town, lots of touristic things to do.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
9. Can you save money?
Yes, if you don't spend it all traveling all over the place!
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
U.S. model car.
3. But don't forget your:
BBQ grill.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Any SA-centric book by Wilbur Smith.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Any SA-centric book by Wilbur Smith.
