Pretoria, South Africa Report of what it's like to live there - 09/05/08
Personal Experiences from Pretoria, South Africa
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Caracas, Venezuela; Krakow, Poland.
2. How long have you lived here?
13 months.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Work at U.S. Embassy.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
State Department uses Delta through Atlanta. It takes about 24 hours including layovers to reach Johannesburg.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
For the Embassy it is a mixed bag. Trend is to force newcomers into compunds, with little or no regard for family size or housing standards. Most compounds have small living spaces and little or no green spaces. Stand alone houses are of good size, but many of the government owned properties are in disrepair and there is no budget to fix them adequately. In short, it is a crapshoot on your housing, but expect the worst and you won't be disappointed.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are cheaper here. Lamb and beef are excellent and 1/3 the cost of DC.Most all you need are available, though imported good are more expensive. The Monument Park Spar (grocery store) has the best selection of US items in Pretoria.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
U.S. breakfast cereals, crackers and cookies, kitty litter, maple syrup, pancake mix.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
KFC and McDonalds are common. Local fast food chains like Nandos and Steers are everywhere. Pretoria has some excellent restaurants, but more are in Johannesburg.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We can send and receive through the pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Pool of domestics that have worked with Embassy folks and have been reviewed by RSO. We pay about US$17/day. Live-in help is different, but I do not know how much they cost. Note that most day domestics work from 8am - 3pm so that they can catch the bus back to their home before dark.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I use credit cards frequently and never have had a problem. However, cc scams are common. I rarely use ATMs. Again, scams are common.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes. Most denominations are represented from Mormon to Orthodox Jew.
5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes. Same as U.S. Without cable you can receive 4 channels. Cable offers you much more, and costs around US$100/month.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None, but knowing the basics in Afrikaans, Zulu, and/or tswana is appreciated.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Pretoria definitely is not ADA compliant. It would be very difficult to get around as a disabled person. It is worse in the countryside.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
Right.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Don't know if they are affordable, but expect they are cheap. However, they are not safe. RSO recommends never taking them, except for a few taxi companies that they will recommend.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
It is not possible to bring a left-hand drive car to SA. Unless you already have a right hand drive car, you'll have to buy one here.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, broadband and ADSL. More expensive than U.S. Most have usage caps, so price depends on how much throughput you use evary month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
It is a different system than the US. Embassy personnel get an Embassy cell phone, anyway.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
We use Vonage, so it is a local call to the U.S. Many VOIP options are available.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Vets are everywhere and you can always find one that is open 24/7. Kennels are generally good. Most Embassy people use Menlyn Kennels and Cattery.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Normal U.S. dress code in the Embassy. Pretoria is about as formal as DC.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Moderate. Worse in winter as there are many brush fires and people heat and cook with kerosene or coal. Plus the winter is very dry, which can make it worse.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Violent, random, and senseless crime. People are killed over a cell phone here. ATM machines are routinely blown up and cash in transit vehicles are commonly attacked. Thieves frequently are armed with automatic weapons. Security can make a difference, but everyone is a potential victim. It is safer in the small towns and in the countryside. South Africa is the rape capital of the world.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
HIV/AIDS is a risk for the promiscuous. TB is common. Medical care is very good, generally. Dentists and orthodontists are excellent and far less expensive than in the U.S. ERs are also good and inexpensive.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Winter is cool and dry. Summer is a bit rainy and warm. However, when it is in the high 80s (F) it never feels that hot.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Our son goes to the American International School of Johannesburg. He likes the school. We have concerns about the quality of some of the teachers and the administration is a bit questionable. Buses pick up the kids from your front gate and drop them off in the PM.Historically, they have offered a wide selection of after school programs, but they seem to have cut back on them dramatically this year. I am not sure why. It is about 45 minutes to the school. Most of the kids at AISJ live ni Johannesburg, so it is difficult for Pretoria kids to establish friendships with many of teir classmates.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Don't know, but there are many Embassy kids with special needs, so they are accomodated in some way.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large. Pretoria has many, many embassies.
2. Morale among expats:
Among the embassy families, morale is not good. The crime situation makes most everyone feel like prisoners in their own houses. You generally don't meet your neighbors because of high walls and gates. The Embassy is a top down organization with the current crew. Heads of sections are treated very well, staff level personnel and FSNs are not. This may change, but the reality for now is to be prepared for some rough going if you come here.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
It is hard to meet South Africans, as mentioned above. Embassy people tend to socialize with each other. We have made a few friends outside of the embassy, but it has been because of our initiative to make it happen.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Singles prefer Johannesburg; it has more nightlife. Pretoria is a quiet city with some good restaurants. Family living is made tough because of the security concerns. Kids just can't walk down the street to play with their friends. If they have no activities after school, they are generally stuck at home.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
There seems to be a reasonable G/L population in South Africa in general.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Race is an issue. South Africans tend to self segregate. You rarely see mixed groups in restaurants. Some areas are clearly frequented by whites and others by blacks. Few places have both. No religious prejudice that I've seen.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Getting out to the country, wildlife reserves, beaches, golf.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
African crafts of all kinds.
9. Can you save money?
Absolutely, unless you spend it traveling.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Probably not. Although we love getting out to the country and away from the city, Embassy life and the attitude toward the staff makes the work week very unpleasant.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Heavy winter duds (unless you are skier) and U.S. car. Expectations for service in restaurants and sense of time.
3. But don't forget your:
Hiking shoes, sunscreen, and sense of adventure.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
7. Do you have any other comments?
South Africa has great potential, if they can overcome crime. The game parks are fabulous and many are close to Pretoria. Trips to Cape Town are affordable and unforgetable.
