Mbabane, Swaziland Report of what it's like to live there - 03/24/15
Personal Experiences from Mbabane, Swaziland
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes, my first,.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
DC. It's along trip to and from Mbabane. There are direct flights from Atlanta and JFK to Jo'burg, and that takes about 16 hours. If those are not your home airports, you need to account for the added layover and flight time to DC or wherever you are going. Also keep in mind that it's a 4-hour drive from Mbabane to the Jo'burg airport. Truthfully, when all said and done, it's 2 solid days of traveling.
3. How long have you lived here?
2+ years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
The houses here are amazing. All are single family homes, most have large yards, and about 70% have pools. There are many people here who have been to numerous posts all over the world, and they all say this is the best housing pool they've ever seen.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are pretty moderately priced. Meat and vegetables tend to be less expensive than in the U.S. But fresh fruit, especially berries, will cost a fortune. If you buy something and love it, buy a lot of it because you may never see it again. There are some decent food stores in Mbabane, but the stores in Ezulwini near the NEC tend to be better and have more variety. There is also a good health food store at the Gables that has a good selection of things you won't find at grocery stores, like Tahini paste and almond butter.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Chocolate chips, brown sugar, good vanilla extract, coconut oil.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
We have KFC and Nando's and a few other places. But I don't know if the food there is any good or what it costs.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
We haven't experienced any serious insect problems here. Many people do have ant problems, though, no matter how clean they keep their house.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Diplomatic Pouch. It's pretty reliable, and things get here in 2-3 weeks. You can't ship anything from here that is bigger than a VCR tape, though.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
It's very easy to find household help, and the cost is about US$200-$250 per month for a full-time helper. Many of the housekeepers have worked for American families for years and take on a new assignment when their current family leaves.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are a couple of local gyms. One is right next door to where the NEC is being built and one is about to open in town at the Mbabane Club. I think they are both about US$50 per month. The US Embassy has a pretty amazing gym, and most of the current equipment will be moving down to the NEC. I do Crossfit, and I'm in the gym 5-6 days a week using the free-weights, pull-up bar, ploy boxes, med balls, etc� but there are circuit machines as well as treadmills, an elliptical, and a recumbent bike. If you like to work out, you'll appreciate the gym at the embassy.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
We primarily use cash here, but we have used our ATM and credit cards without issue. Just don't let anyone take your card away to swipe it out of your sight and you'll be fine.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I only know of the English language Catholic service, but I'm sure you can find others here as well.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None, but it's nice to be able to greet people in SiSwati.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Definitely. There are very few sidewalks, and were there are sidewalks they are usually very crowded. It would be difficult to use them in a wheelchair or with crutches. Also, Mbabane is incredibly hilly, making it pretty difficult just to walk around.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
There are "kombis" (taxi buses), but we are advised not to take them. The only people I know who take public transport are the Peace Corps volunteers.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
I would recommend an SUV or a truck, something with decent ground clearance. The roads here are pretty terrible, especially during the rainy season. Pot holes can be huge, and there are random speed bumps everywhere. I would recommend bring or buying something relatively new, since finding decent mechanics here is difficult. A repair that would take two days in the U.S. takes a month here. You can ship some parts through the pouch, and you can get some on the local market in Swaziland and SA, but it wouldn't hurt to ship oil, filters, and other odds and ends you think you might need.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
They call it "high speed" but it's anything but that. We pay about US$150 per month for 1028kb/s of speed and we barely get one-fourth of that. It's truly the most frustrating thing about living here. The internet will go out for days, and no one will know why or when it's coming back on.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You only have one choice here: MTN has a monopoly. The US Embassy staff are issued phones, but family members should bring an unlocked phone and buy a SIM card here. Most everyone uses a pay-as-you-go plan, and you can buy air time just about anywhere --- but it can be pretty expensive for the calls and the data. 500MB of data will cost about US$20 and $10 will get you about 30-40 minutes of talk time.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No. There is a vet in town but he isn't equipped to handle anything serious. But there are good vets in South Africa.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are some EFM jobs available at the embassy, and some of the spouses have been able to get work at the many NGOs in town.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
A few of the EFMs volunteer at local orphanages.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Front office people wears suits and ties, but mostly everyone else is business casual.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
This is considered a high-threat post, but, for the most part I feel pretty safe here. As long as you are aware of your surroundings and use common sense, you should be fine. All homes have 24-hour guards, and the local guard force is excellent. Our previous RSO said they were the best guard force he ever worked with.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The healthcare in Swaziland is pretty mediocre. There are some good doctors at the clinics, but it really depends on who you see. The healthcare in South Africa is top notch, though.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
It depends on the time of year. Summer is the rainy season, and the air quality is pretty good. During the dry season, the Swazi people burn EVERYTHING! At any given time you will see brush fires on the sides of mountains, in people's yards, and beside the highways. No one in my family has breathing issues, but I do see that people who have asthma or other breathing issues might have problems living here. In addition, we are at 4000 feet above sea level, so that might cause some people problems, too.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
My allergies haven't bothered me at all here, but some people have problems with itchy eyes and running noses. Almost everything packaged here has dairy in it, so if you have a dairy allergy you should stick to the fresh foods.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
We frequently comment that this can't possibly be Africa. Swaziland must have the most mild African climate of anywhere. The summer (December - March) is warm but rainy. It rarely rains all day, but you can expect some rain just about every day, mostly in the afternoon and evenings. The winter months (May - September) are ridiculously dry.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
We've had mixed feelings about the schools here. When we first arrived, our children attended the Montessori International Preschool. We were neutral about this school. We did have some issues, like when they renovated and construction workers were carrying huge pieces of wood with rusty nails through swarms of 3-6 year olds. I also didn't really trust the director. She lied to me on a few different occasions about incidents that happened at school. There are several other preschools here, though. Currently many of the little kids go to Evergreen Preschool, and all the parents seem pretty happy.
Our son attended Usutu Forest School for grade 1, and it was truly the most stressful year of my life. His teacher would call me weekly to tell me how he wasn't coloring in the lines and she thought he wasn't keeping up with the class. I would drive out there almost weekly (40 minutes in each direction) so she could compare him to the kids in class doing the best work. She would literally pull out the other kids' work and put it side by side with my son's to show me how behind she thought he was. As a 6 and 7-year-old, he was getting 90 minutes of homework a night. I hired him a tutor who used to work at the school and she worked with him 2 days a week. She was so appalled by the amount of homework, she called the school to complain. Mind you, they have a no homework policy.
The last straws for me were when his teacher called him a misfit while in a meeting with me, and also when another boy pulled a knife on him and threatened to kill him, and the school did nothing, citing "boys being boys." I wish I could say these were isolated incidents, but I have many friends who pulled their children out of Usutu over the last 2 years because of bullying issues, problems with teachers, etc. These children are from all walks of life, Swazi, Scottish, and South African, and they were all experiencing the same issues. Currently my children are attending the Montessori Primary School, and I couldn't be happier. It's a total turn-around from our experience last year. The high school here, Waterford, gets great reviews from parents for the IB program, but some people complain that their children in the lower grades (starting at 7th) are not being challenged and are given work well below their grade level. Many Swazi's with money send their children to boarding school in South Africa.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
The Montessori Primary School does enroll some children with special needs (cerebral palsy and Down syndrome) and it seems to integrate them well into the school. Usutu does offer a department for OT but my experience was that they were pretty useless.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
As mentioned above, there are several preschools here, but only a few are used by the US Embassy. When we arrived, the Evergreen school was not yet open, but if it had been, I definitely would have sent my children there. There are no daycares, but you can hire a nanny for less than US$250 per month.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Most of the schools offer after-school sports programs like cricket, soccer, rounders, netball, and a few others. You can also enroll your kids in Judo, swim lessons, and additional soccer training. One of the parents has her son running track with the man who trains the Swazi track and field Olympians.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
It's a pretty small community, only about 15 State Department direct hires and another 10 with USAID, PEPFAR and Peace Corps, but almost all have spouses and children. Everyone seems to really enjoy each other's company. The CLO runs a lot of events, and people do a lot of entertaining in their homes. This current group of people is a lot of fun, and the local staff are wonderful people, too.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Most entertaining is done in people's homes, but restaurants here are pretty inexpensive, and people do go out to dinner often in Mbabane and Ezulwini.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
This is a great post for families and couples. I would also say this is a great post for singles if you can meet the right people. There are many single expats living and working in Mbabane, although none currently work directly for the US Embassy.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I'm not sure about this. I do not know any openly gay people at post or in the community.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
We haven't experienced any tensions, but I am told there are some hangover feelings from the Apartheid era.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The U.S Embassy community is amazing. The majority of the people who work for the embassy, USAID, PEPFAr and Peace Corps are lots of fun to be around. Krueger Park is an amazing site, and I enjoyed seeing the beaches, Durban, SA, and Ponto Do'ouro, Mozambique.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
I could go on and on about this but heres just a few:
Swazi Candles, Ngwenya Glass, Mvubu Falls, go to www.biggameparks.org to see all the local game parks, lots of great places to shop and go to the beach in SA and Mozambique.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Candles, glass, tapestries
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The country is beautiful! If you love being outdoors, you will love it here. There are tons of hiking trails and local game parks. You can get to some pretty great places in South Africa like Krueger Park, Jo'burg, Pretoria and Durban in 2-6 hours.
10. Can you save money?
Absolutely, but you can also spend it traveling all over Southern Africa.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
It would have been great to know a little more about the lack of healthcare and how hard it is to get a car fixed, but we've been able to manage.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely!
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Sweaters and heavy winter clothes. Also your hectic lifestyle and any preconceived notions about living in Africa.
4. But don't forget your:
Laid back attitude and sense of adventure.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017WI5PW/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0017WI5PW&linkCode=as2&tag=thesunspousunder&linkId=TJUIYLUMFCLAI3HW
6. Do you have any other comments?
When we were assigned this post I wasn't thrilled about coming to Africa, but it really has been a wonderful place to live.
