Mbabane, Swaziland Report of what it's like to live there - 10/06/19
Personal Experiences from Mbabane, Swaziland
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, we have served in many places in Africa and Asia.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
USA. The flight is brutal, especially with kids. In addition to the Joberg to US flight, there is a 5 hour drive to Joberg from Mbabane, and usually an overnight stay in one direction. We try to stay and explore this side of the world on vacations, rather than make that trip too often.
3. How long have you lived here?
Two years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
State Department.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Lovely houses that are bigger than you need. Everyone has a yard.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can get everything you need. There are multiple grocery store chains and a Woolworth's. People occasionally make the trip to Nelspruit to get things they can't find here, but we never have.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
This is a non-consumables post, but we use the pouch to get an occasional shipment of tortilla chips, because you can't find good ones here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Not a ton of restaurant options and everything closes early. Most households employ people to do cooking during the week. There are also a few ladies that cook meals and do house delivery: Ethiopian, Vietnamese and Indian food. Get on the WhatsApp groups and Swazi Diary that share info as soon as you arrive so that you know what's going on.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Lots of people have problems with ants, but they are tiny and don't bite. I don't mind them.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Diplomatic pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Almost every house has at least a nanny or cleaner and a gardener. There aren't really drivers for hire here, which is different than almost everywhere else we have served (and makes coordinating school drop-offs and pick ups much more difficult, because the embassy is about 30 minutes away). We pay around 400 USD a month for a live-in nanny, 200 for the gardener. I think we pay higher than most the other families.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The old PEPFAR compound has a gym that is pretty good. There are also local gyms that offer classes: pilates, zumba, karate, etc. There are good yoga classes. There are nice sidewalks around Mbabane and the air quality is great, so it's a nice post for running outside, at least during the summer months. There are running groups, constant marathons/5Ks, mountain biking competitions, tough mudders, rock climbing (the best on the continent is 90 minutes away)!
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
We use credit cards at restaurants and grocery stores. We haven't had any problems.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
All of them I think.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Most everything is done in English.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
It would be a better post than most on the continent.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
The RSO warns against using taxis, but I've never had any problem. They are oddly expensive though.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
If you plan to do a lot of adventuring: Kruger, Wild Coast, Mozambique, bring a 4WD. If you plan to stay in the city, a car will be fine. We have one sedan and one SUV.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
The internet is not great, but you adapt. Some nights we can stream things, but other nights we cannot. It's the most frustrating when you try to make a facetime call to family in the states and the call keeps dropping.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
MTN is the regional provider. They are pretty good.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
There are vet services here. They are fine, but not great. Really important thing to note if you are bidding on this post with pets. GETTING YOUR DOG HERE IS A NIGHTMARE. We have brought our dog with us to every post, no problem. To get your dog through South Africa, you must put your dog in quarantine, get hundreds of dollars of tests that aren't available in the US, and get a shipping company to ship to South Africa and another to receive the dog in South Africa. We have always shipped and received our dogs by ourselves, no problem, but a shipper on both ends was non-negotiable. And you cannot fly pets directly into Eswatini. Our dog ended up spending a year in the United States with family before we could get her here. We ended up spending well over 5,000 USD on the whole process. Honestly, I might not have bid on the post if I knew what all this would entail. That said-- some friends shipped their dog in from another country on the continent, and seemed to have an easier time. I suppose you could always try to sneak your dog in through Mozambique and try your luck, but I was told by the embassy it was not allowed.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are lots of EFM jobs, including a Pol/Econ EPAP job. If the spouse does health work there are a lot of organizations that may have work options.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
There are a few great organizations that would be happy to have extra help.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
People dress professionally for work. The only thing you need to dress in formal attire for is the Marine Ball.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
No, I feel very safe. Everyone is always concerned about the strikes and marches, but they are never as large or dangerous as the newspapers lead you to believe, and they announce where they will march, so you just steer clear.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
No trauma services in the country. Also, I have never seen a dentist here, and with the high prevalence of HIV, it's just a risk I don't need to take. Mbabane clinic is fine for ear infections, etc.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Nice and clean, except for the 2 months of the year when they light the entire country on fire.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
There are lots of green spaces and flowers, so allergies might flare up. I am not aware of any issues with food allergies. Since you do most of your own cooking it's not too hard to avoid certain things.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
None I can think of, but there aren't really many mental health services either.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
There are seasons! It's actually really cold here sometimes! It never snows, but there is a cold season, a rainy season, a dry season, spring and hot summer. It's lovely, but you certainly don't expect weather like this when you think of Africa.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
They are fine. Not the best for younger kids,but they suffice. There is a Waterford school for high school aged kids and it is a FANTASTIC school, but the kids have to take a test and be admitted.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
They try, but often don't succeed. They just don't seem to have the capacity to do much more than the norm.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, all available. You pay more than you should for what you get.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, soccer, horse back riding, jujitsu, ballet, etc.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
It is small, but it is composed of great people. Try to get out of the embassy bubble if you can, there are some lovely friends to be made. The morale is great. We all feel so lucky to live here.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
If we are in town, our weekends are full. There are always dinners and brunches and birthday parties and activities. We often take group camping trips with multiple families. There are monthly wine tastings and trivia nights. The local animal shelters often have dinners and movies. There is a national historical society that does monthly outdoor excursions. We find ourselves busy all the time!
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It might be tough because the community is so small, but if your focus is enjoying life, not finding a significant other, you will be fine. And you may even get lucky!
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Eswatini just had their second Pride parade! They are coming around. I don't think anyone would give you any problems.
5. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
It not super easy, and a lot of that stems from not speaking Siswati. However, we have a few great local friends that I'm sure we will keep in touch with.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Eswatini had the first school that allowed children of all races on the continent. It's a fascinating story. There are still some weird things, just by virtue of being next to South Africa, but generally, everyone gets along well.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Oh so many things! We typically take weekend trips once or twice a month. Rock climbing in Waterval Boven, Ballito beaches, Kruger National park, ALL the Swazi national parks (you must go to Mkhaya!), Dullstroom, skiing in Afriski, the yearly Bushfire festivals are AMAZING, spend a weekend with friends in Mbuluzi, get away in Phophonyane, do sundowners and a camping night in Mlilwane (30 minutes away!), the list goes on. There are also some great longer trips that aren't difficult: Mozambique, Mauritius and Reunion, Cape Town.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
See above. Eat at Edladleni, do the waterfall hike in Malolojta, get involved with the local hiking club- they end up in amazing places.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Baskets and glassware. The Piggs Peak craft market has a great selection.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It is a small city. Not much pollution. People complain about not having much to do, but you end up with more than enough to keep you occupied. It is very suburban. I would definitely recommend living in Mbabane to Ezulweni, given the choice.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
This was the most difficult post to settle into for me. I felt like more could have been done to make my transition easier. As I mentioned, the embassy is about 30 minutes away from most of the housing. So on the first day in the country, I found myself in suburbia with two kids, no groceries, no car (and encouraged not to take taxis!). I felt very alone for the first few weeks. I couldn't come to my "Hail" at the MSG, because I had no way to get there! It was tough to adjust. Coupled with the stress of shipping the dog it was really tough. Since the housing is spread between Ezulweni and Mbabane, the embassy community is kind of fragmented and it took a while to find "our people." Now that we have been here for a while, we are happier here than probably any other post we've served.
Note: I think there is new RSO taxi guidance, that gives you a list of 4-5 taxis you can choose from, but if they aren't available then you are stuck. While in Mbabane I use the taxis that are recommended to the NGO staff located up here and have never had any problems.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
1000% yes. We still have another year, but I already tear up when I think about leaving. I'd maybe wait to get a dog until after you arrive.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Any preconceived notion of "hardship" Africa.
4. But don't forget your:
Sense of adventure and ability to make your own fun!
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
This is perhaps a bit dark, but fascinating: https://medium.com/thebigroundtable/the-killers-of-swaziland-1d128e3119df
6. Do you have any other comments?
Life is really good here, you should come!
