Mbabane, Swaziland Report of what it's like to live there - 08/20/23
Personal Experiences from Mbabane, Swaziland
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, we have lived in Abu Dhabi (United Arab Emirates), Accra (Ghana), London (England), Baghdad (Iraq), & Grenoble (France).
Note: we work for the U.S. Embassy so all our answers are taken through that filter.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Seattle, Washington. It takes roughly 22-26 hours door to door.
3. How long have you lived here?
Four years.
4. What years did you live here?
2019-2023.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is generally spacious with a medium to large yards. There are no apartments or compounds; all housing is stand alone with dedicated 24/hr security. Half of the houses are embassy owned (and maintained) and the other half are leased. Most housing is in Mbabane, roughly 25 mins drive to the embassy. About a quarter of the houses are in Ezulwini valley and have shorter commutes to the Embassy (3-5 mins drive). The furniture pool is the standard and in good condition.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can find just about anything you need here. Being so close to South Africa, we have access to most supplies and amenities from there, including food items. For larger/specific items, you may need to drive to South Africa. Local furniture makers are affordable and popular. Embassy pouch purchases generally take 2-3 weeks to arrive.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Nothing. See above.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are a good number of fair to very good outdoor dining options around. There are good pizza options, local food restaurants, Korean, Portuguese, Café, Taiwanese, Indian, German. Fresh fruits and vegetables abound.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
None.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Embassy pouch purchases generally take 2-3 weeks to arrive from the U.S. Incoming pouch can include bicycles, TVs, food, etc. Pouch is adequate although outgoing pouch size is restricted to smaller packages.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is readily available and the local help generally revolve between outgoing and incoming families. Expertise and skill sets vary. For us, our nanny is excellent and does our shopping, cleans house, does laundry, and cooks. We pay between 250-350/month depending on overtime.
We also employ a gardener. The embassy reimburses 80% of her salary.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are a few gyms/clubs around town...no idea about cost but should be relatively inexpensive. Two embassy buildings have exercise gyms available to staff.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes, we make most purchases with credit cards. We withdraw cash form the Embassy and vary rarely from ATMs. You should always be mindful of your surroundings but using credit cards and ATMs is reasonably safe here.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
English is the official language of business and education; spoken throughout.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You need to know very little SiSwati but it does help to be polite and learn a few local greetings etc.
Unsure where you can find tutors but I'm sure they exist if you look hard enough.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Depends. We are currently adding an ADA-approved residence to the housing pool. That said, in public or non-Embassy areas, movement for mobility impaired individuals might be challenging. Most government and business buildings do not have elevators, ramps, etc.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Travel by local combis (vans) is not permitted by Chief of Mission. Taxis and inter-city shuttles with a few companies is allowed/safe.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
At least one 4x4 is recommended for trips/travel. Some country roads can be rough. The main roads/highways are fine. A smaller car is suggested for local travel. Driving happens on the left side of the road, so right-hand drive vehicles recommended.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet speeds and reliability have improved dramatically in the last few years. Although not at the speeds of 1st world countries, internet speeds of 10 Mb is commonplace at roughly $100/month. Various options exist. Starlink has just been approved so that will exponentially increase options/speeds for the Mission.
One company can install same or next day.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
MTN is the main provider. Google Fi does not work (except with wi-fi).
Note: We do, however, keep our U.S. numbers active with Google Fi but there are other options.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Most houses have great yards and access to green space for pets. However, the availability of vet care is definitely an area that could improve. Care and expertise are hit or miss. Until recently, we had a very good vet in Mbabane, but that clinic closed so there is a gap. Folks now have to drive a bit to the next town to access care. No idea if these other options are any good yet.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Any Eligible Family Member (EFMs) who wishes to work in the Embassy will most likely find a job.
Employment on the local community is also available with a defacto work agreement and front office approval.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Some members of the community have volunteered with a local animal care/shelter. Others find ways to volunteer at local churches, schools, etc.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Relaxed to work-casual. Formal dress may be required for local ceremonies or official work engagements.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Although things can occur anywhere this world and one should never fully let down their guard, the crime and security situation is not as serious in Eswatini as it is in South Africa or many other posts we’ve experienced. Here, you can freely walk where you wish, withdraw from ATMs, etc. without being pestered. Riding bicycles and walking at night are risky strictly because of poor street lighting, so you do take on risks of vehicle having limited visibility. Also, all the residences have their own 24/7 security guards.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
We currently have two full-time nurses in the Embassy health unit. Outside the Embassy, in general, for typical/noncomplicated issues or standard health care needs, the two main approved clinics Embassy staff use are competent, affordable, and quick. That said, for more specialized care, staff generally find higher quality options in larger cities in South Africa (a 2-4 hr drive depending on your needs).
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The air is generally very clean although during crop-burning season, we do experience 1-2 months of sporadic smoke pollution from burning. The embassy has done a good job of making air purifiers available to residences. Water is clean and there is no need to disinfect vegetables.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The weather is amazing. Rarely too hot and the winter months are short. Most the year the weather is temperate and lovely.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are two main schools in the country: UFS (Usutu) International Academy (grades K-12) and Waterford (grades 7-12). Both schools follow a South African academic calendar (Jan-Dec), ethos and curriculum. This is not a seamless connection to North American systems, but it can work.
Our kids arrived when they were in grades 4, 2 and preschool. The older kids integrated by taking some extra time in grades 2 and 4, which worked well for us. The youngest joined in Kindergarten (Grade 0), and we love that they all 3 go to the same school. They have received solid elementary education at UFS, and while the school is small and not perfect, we very much like it.
UFS school follows Cambridge curriculum from grade 8-12 (Form 1 to Form 5) and it prep students to for IGCSE examinations to finish high school. UFS is located outside of the major cities. Kids should expect to commute 45min-1hour each way due to distance.
I am less familiar with Waterford, which is a high school located in Mbabane. It has a historically prestigious reputation and is generally extremely well-regarded, although the school went through a rough patch during/following COVID. The leadership is working hard to rebuild the school and hold onto its reputation, although recent families have reported mixed success. My understanding is that this school follows an IB curriculum and IGCSE. The student can choose their track. The commute is very close to residences in Mbabane.
For a third option, some families chose to send their kids to Montessori Life International, which is located in Mbabane proper, and a much smaller commute. This follows a mixed Montessori/project-based curriculum with South African standards.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
They will make accommodations but you will need to collect the required paperwork/assessments. They will accept international assessments.
Special help is available, but its consistency is unpredictable. If a parent is persistent and keeps a close eye on the school, the school will provide most accommodations.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, all are available and relatively inexpensive. Our youngest attended a Montessori school for two years.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Soccer, field hockey, basketball, rugby, cricket, chess, drama, etc.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Including other Diplomatic missions and NGOs only, there are several hundred expats. There are also thousands of other expats who have simply immigrated to Eswatini over the years. Morale is very good and networking is the key to finding what you need. It is a small country.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Embassy social gatherings, wine tastings, and private barbeques (called “braais” locally) are the most common after hours events at post. Most venues, including local restaurants shut down early and have limited hours on weekends. Although there are a few special events such as the annual, internationally acclaimed Bushfire Music Festival and Luju Food/Fashion/Music Festival, both of which run throughout the weekend and offer great after hours fun.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
No idea for singles but terrific for families. There are many things to do and costs are relatively low.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
Easy for us...no idea about prejudices.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
No idea.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There are certainly some gender inequalities that still persist in this culturally traditional nation...there are small changes/improvements but in general, it sometimes feels that Eswatini is still a few decades behind what we might find in the West.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Services such as tailors, carpentry, music teachers, tutors, and (some) sports clubs are available and extremely affordable and great for kids. Our kids take judo, piano lessons, soccer, nature clubs, and horse-back riding. There is a local climbing club, art classes, dances classes, yoga and more. Several Embassy employees take flying lessons (including myself) which is terrific and half the cost from U.S. flying schools. It takes time to find these groups, but the CLO and embassy community are quite connected, so it’s easy to get information once you get on the ground.
The scenery is mountainous and stunning, and there are a lot of nature-related activities at post, including wildlife, hiking, biking, camping, etc. The community is small and close-knit. Traffic is nearly non-existent and there are lots of access to amenities due to South Africa being so close.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are several local markets and handicrafts of note:
Mbabane market has woodwork, textiles, shields, etc.
Ngwenya Glass makes wonderful glass works.
The Swazi Candle factory makes unique/beautiful candle items.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The traffic in Mbabane is almost non-existent.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
It's a hidden gem...the work-life balance is perfect and the people are lovely. The drivers are fine...not too fast and generally observe all the roads rules...though I assume some do not have valid drivers licenses.
Plus Swazis like Americans!
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes...we extended twice: from a three year tour to a five year tour (by the time we leave).
Most families have also extended their tours.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expectation that everything runs on time...
4. But don't forget your:
Sense of adventure...
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Those Who Eat Like Crocodiles: Fitzgerald, Laura
6. Do you have any other comments?
Highly recommended post with a lot of career options despite not being in the limelight of other larger posts. The local employee team is also terrific. We are a small mission but mighty.
