Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania Report of what it's like to live there - 02/16/13
Personal Experiences from Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania
Background:
1. Your reason for living this city (e.g. corporate, government, military, student, educator, retiree, etc.):
2. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
3. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
West coast of US; 28-30 hours including layovers --- one stateside layover and one in Amsterdam. Delta/KLM had the best connections, especially for traveling with pets.
4. How long have you lived here?
(The contributor was affiliated with the U.S. Embassy and lived in Dar es Salaam from 2010 to 2012, a third expat experience in Africa.)
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Most housing is on the peninsula and is fairly good sized and nice. The commute to the embassy, with no traffic, is about a 10-15 minute drive, but during "rush hour", the ride can take around 30 minutes. Traffic is bad outside the peninsula, and traffic lights usually don't work---or people don't adhere to them.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries and household supplies are quite expensive except for fresh produce, which is good and relatively cheap. Bring your own paper goods, toiletries, and cleaning products. You can get good wine for low prices from South Africa. Juices, sodas, and bottled water are pretty cheap. Alcohol is so-so in price.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
More portable fans. Some of the rooms are large and the one little air conditioning unit isn't enough to even slightly cool down one room. Car oil & filters. Lots more sunscreen and mosquito repellant.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There is no such thing as fast food in Africa. But there is a good "quicker" Thai place and a couple of delis. There is a Subway that is pretty similar to ours. Lots of restaurants: Thai, Chinese, Indian, Italian, and even a couple of Mexican. Prices are from the medium to high range.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Malaria is the main one talked about while we were there. Everyone has ants and roaches in their houses. Spiders are there but not a big deal.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Only through the embassy.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
They are everywhere and relatively cheap. Although there are tough laws for insuring them.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is a small gym at the embassy and a few public ones on the peninsula.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
NEVER use either one there. You can, but I wouldn't trust using a credit card except at the high end hotels. NEVER use an ATM, the issues with this are getting more and more frequent.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I'm not sure. Ours was Swahili only.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes. The men in the streets have the latest editions of English newspapers and several magazines. There are several options for TV but we used AFN.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You can get by without, but you get better service and attention if you know some Swahili. A little goes a long way with their appreciation. Also, even though English is the main business language, there are still a vast majority that don't speak it.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
There are no sidewalks, and the roads are in very poor condition. Almost all of the houses are at least two stories. So walking the streets or getting to places upstairs would prove difficult. If you have breathing problems, it may be an issue the farther you live off the peninsula.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Ther are no local trains. Don't take buses, and only use properly marked taxis. Pajaj's are plentiful, but use them at your own risk. Taxis are not too expensive, but always agree on a price BEFORE you get in.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
I would only drive a 4X4. Roads are bad, and when it rains they flood, and some places get pretty deep. I would worry about driving through some areas in a regular car. Parts and services are VERY expensive, as is gas/diesel. Carjackings aren't so bad, but break-ins and theft of mirrors is a big issue. Always pay to park your car in public. While most people can drive their left-hand-drive vehicles without problems, I find it easier to use a right-hand drive. Shipping & customs take FOREVER, so plan ahead to ship a vehicle or purchase one locally. The best option is to get one from another diplomat as they leave. Paperwork & customs can take literally months otherwise. The ports are a mess to process shipping a vehicle, so plan ahead.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet is very expensive and unreliable. There are many competing companies, but it seems several are down more than they are up. The speed is average on a good day. Streaming leaves a lot to be desired. Most you recharge by scratch cards.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
There are several carriers and they are mostly the same price range. For data packages it gets a bit pricey.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No. But they do have to be approved BEFORE coming into country.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
I heard the Italian vet left, and that's the only one we knew of that was high quality. The pet food is expensive and not that great. I would ship most food and medicines.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
The only jobs I saw expats do were within the diplomatic community and charities. That doesn't mean they aren't there, I just didn't know of any.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Casual on both accounts.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Yes, many muggings, and the house break-ins are getting worse. The biggest problem is that most break-ins are inside jobs from the security company the embassy uses (KK Security)and they don't fire the guards after they are caught.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Malaria. The embassy clinic is pretty good and there are a couple of good options on the economy.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality off the peninsula is bad with traffic and trash burning. On the peninsula (where the majority of expats live) is only bad when they are burning trash next door.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Very hot and humid 9 months of the year and the other 3 it is still hot and humid, but a bit more bearable. Seasons are opposite of the U.S. and there are mainly only two rainy seasons. Streets flood when it rains and the roads are all bad.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I've heard that the lower campus is good and that parents are happy with it. But the upper campus is terrible, other kids hate American kids, the education is horrible, and it makes no sense how they handle things. And the social issues with the teens isn't very good. 11th & 12th grades are especially rough. There is NOTHING for the teenage crowd to do but party with drugs. It is not a U.S.-based school like most we've dealt with elsewhere, and if you are not familiar with the British IB system it is not good to throw your kids into it towards the end of their school career. Most parents send their kids back to the States or to boarding school for their last two years. We did that as well.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I would not send any special-needs kids to the International School.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Not sure about the lower grades. The high school has a few, but they are not well organized and mostly cater to the permanent residents. The soccer team is half a team playing on half a field.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
It's a fairly large community.
2. Morale among expats:
Fairly good from all that I have seen.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There is a very busy and active receptions/events social circuit. Several social functions for the various holidays. There seems to always be home parties/get togethers. There is a French, Russian, and Indian cultural centers. The local church is always putting on plays and other activities.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Families with small children, yes; families with teenagers, NO, singles yes, couples OK.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I have never heard of there being any issues.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
I never heard of or saw any issues with race or religion, but I did experience going to the local doctors, and they wouldn't speak directly to me (being a woman), but only to my husband. That being said, they were professional otherwise.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Going on safari, the beach, snorkeling, and Zanzibar & Mafia Island.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Mostly water activities: scuba, snorkeling, sailing, going to the beach. safari, or hiking Mt. Kilimanjaro. There are two theaters, but both take a while to get to through the city traffic and are not close to the housing areas. They are both in malls. Plenty of good restaurants.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Crafts, wood carvings, paintings, Zanzibar chests, Massai items and Tanzanite.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Safaris (although they are extremely expensive) and the beautiful Indian Ocean.
11. Can you save money?
Absolutely NOT. Especially if you must entertain for the job. Just about everything is expensive here. The COLA does NOT reflect the proper cost of living.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, but I'd be better prepared. It is VERY frustrating to first get settled in. There are a lot of challenges but once you get the system down and learn to live with the quirks, all is good.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Rushed attitude. EVERYTHING takes time here and isn't very efficient.
3. But don't forget your:
PATIENCE, PATIENCE, PATIENCE. And all your water gear (except surf boards or body boards, as there are no waves) and sunscreen.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
You are on the beautiful Indian Ocean but DO NOT be deceived by all you read up on before you go. There are NO local beaches on the peninsula (well, only one but we are not allowed to use it). You WILL have to drive at least 30 minutes or take a ferry to get to any beach to enjoy.
