Tashkent, Uzbekistan Report of what it's like to live there - 08/08/18
Personal Experiences from Tashkent, Uzbekistan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC.
3. How long have you lived here?
Two years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Enormous with a pool. Single family homes with enclosed perimeter fence. Embassy houses are spread throughout the city, commute times can be up to 30 min. Non-embassy expats had even larger houses more central in the city.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Local produce extremely affordable in season. Sunflower oil, pasta, boxed milk, chicken, eggs, local bread, and local cheese is always available and generally affordable. Imported goods are extremely expensive if available at all.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
It is a consumables post as of 2018. And there is a commissary for embassy families and other goods can be purchased via Ramstein (through the commissary), so you can get almost anything if you're willing to pay a hefty price. Lots of people shipped alcohol, peanut butter, salsa, and liquids like sauces and vinegar. Most other items can be received through Amazon orders. We brought 50 pounds of frozen cheese (cheddar, swiss, mozzarella, Monterey Jack, Parmesan,) and frozen meats in our luggage and just hoped they didn't lose that bag.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
The country is just starting to develop more restaurant options, including delivery services. To me, all locally prepared food is pretty blah and the same thing.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
We had minor ants a couple of times. There are wasps. Some friends had scorpions (small but not very dangerous).
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Pouch (no DPO). Shipped items take at least 2-3 weeks, minimum. Longer when it gets backed up during holiday seasons.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is readily available. People are coming out of the woodwork when you arrive because Americans pay US$25-30/day when all other nationalities pay US$15/day. Some families had nannies, cooks, housekeepers, gardeners, chauffeurs, and pool cleaners.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are some. I cannot speak to quality or price.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
None. Cash only, mostly local currency, though tourist sites might accept crisp US Dollar or Euro currency in large bills. In 2017, the Uzbek govt liberalized the exchange rate so the previous discrepancy between the "official" rate and the "black market" rate is no longer an issue. This change is positive for diplomats.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Catholic, possibly Protestant, and some "non-sanctioned" services in homes may be available. Religious freedom still seems to be an issue in this country.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Locals speak Uzbek to one another. Russian is widely understood in the city, especially by older Uzbeks (over age 35), locals are very kind and helpful about English, but there will be little true communication. Plenty of Russian language classes available and affordable through the U.S. Embassy language program, Tashkent International School parent classes, or private in-home tutors.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Terrible. No wheelchair access, no level sidewalks. No accommodations for hearing or sight impairment. No good medical care for serious conditions.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Crazy affordable. Metro is cheap and safe if you live nearer to the center of the city. Any car is a taxi for cheap (like, $2 could get you across the city), but you probably won't have a seatbelt, definitely no carseats for children, and traffic is a consistently risky venture.
Uzbek air is an interesting experience. The local trains (to take you to other cities) can be nice if you pay for the express or less nice if you have to go on the economy train.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Lots of cars available from diplomats to diplomats every summer. You can buy a Chevy in country. Lots of potholes on residential roads, so bring something hardy. US Embassy mechanics are amazing and resourceful. Chances of car accidents are pretty high. The bigger you are, the more road respect you are likely to receive.
Little to no risk of burglary.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Better all the time. Limited fiber optic options in some areas. Speed still limited.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Bring an unlocked international cell phone. Local providers available.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No kennel services, so pet owners swap with each other. Veterinarians seem sketchy. Serious restrictions and logistical issues with airlines getting pets in and out, i.e. very expensive.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Local salaries are pitiful. Some had telecommuting jobs or worked at the international school. Native English speakers were begged to tutor English privately. Overall it's tough or impossible for expats to get a job on the local economy because work permits are difficult to come by.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Plenty. Dog shelters, schools, orphanages, but you have to be careful, too, since it doesn't seem like they like to admit there are problems in the country.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
All local school kids wear a uniform of white shirt and black pants or skirt. Suits and ties, skirts and heels are worn in the workplace. Weddings are very formal, dressy, shiny affairs.
It's a Muslim country, so moderate modesty of women is appreciated, like, no cleavage, no short shorts.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Police state, so I felt very safe even as a lone woman walking. Use common sense.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is available through Tashkent International Clinic (doctor and dentist). Anything remotely serious requires evacuation.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality isn't measured or published by the government, but it felt poor, especially in the middle of the city. Usually hazy. It was an exception to see the beautiful mountains.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
No local sensitivity to food allergies of any kind.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Just culture shock.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Very hot, sunny, and dusty in the summer. Some snow in the winter.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Tashkent International School is where all the embassy kids went when we were there. Some parents LOVED it (especially the community feeling) and some parents found its reputation to be inflated. Very strong in liberal arts, but some parents worried about STEM lacking in lower and middle grades. This gets better in high school. After-school activities are many and varied. Social events revolve strongly around the school. Facilities are good for Uzbekistan. New gym recently added and plans for new expanded elementary building and ELC (pre-school). Grounds are vast and quite secure. Truly international student body.
Other options include a British School with lovely facilities (and I believe they are beginning to expand into upper grades like 8 and 9), and a French school.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
While we were there, they were accommodating peanut allergies, speech therapy, and IEPs at least in the lower grades. They really try to meet the learning and emotional needs of all the children, by hiring extra aides or working with teachers to increase the challenge for advanced students. Mostly, the teachers are incredible and the administration is top notch. Definitely contact the school to discuss your options.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Preschools are available at TIS, the British School, and the French school. There are also a couple of local English program preschools (Star Kids International and Twinkle Star) and plenty of Russian ones (Chuda is beloved). Know that Russian and Uzbek language preschools promote the Russian or Uzbek cultures, so not a lot of independent thought or curiosity or exploration. I didn't know any expats with their children in an Uzbek preschool.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Plenty of private lessons available in EVERYTHING: tennis, piano, fencing, swimming, chess, and/or tae kwon do. You just have to find an athletic club or private teacher. Lots of after-school activities available through Tashkent International School for students, and sports too at the older grade levels.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
The expat community is small enough that most people know most people either through work or through the school. There are embassy employees, the UN, UNICEF, the EU, business employees from GM, Korean companies, school teachers, oil companies, and others. I would suggest morale was generally good. Tashkent is affordable and safe, so good for families. It is remote and can be expensive to travel into and out of, and always feels like central Asia, so you can't escape your reality much.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Tashkent Women's International Group (TWIG) available to women expats is an amazing club with many social, cultural, and educational activities.
The Koreans have an incredible community and network, as far as I can tell. You can ingratiate yourself in the TIS school Community as a volunteer or an involved parent and meet other parents and teachers and administrators there. With locals, your neighbors are likely to be friendly and inclusive, especially if your children play in the street with theirs, or you try to speak their language.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I would say couples and families could be very happy here. You can make your own fun, but there are also parks and bowling, public water parks, amusement parks, historical sites, museums. It's probably slightly more difficult for singles.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
It does not seem socially acceptable here. No visible presence, at least.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
The country is primarily Muslim, but not extremist. There does not seem to be true religious freedom. Prejudices against gypsies, but I still saw plenty of people giving gypsy beggars cash. Women who are single or divorced or childless carry a stigma. Local marriages are arranged.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The local people are so kind and helpful and accepting. The goods and services are extremely affordable. I loved the Tashkent International School community for myself and for my children. I loved being a member of Tashkent Women's International Group (TWIG) and the U.S. Embassy community was absolutely incredible. So inclusive, so fun, supportive, interesting, generous, good people in leadership positions, and a good feeling.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Most visitors and tourists prioritize visits to Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva, and the Fergana Valley. There is an old Koran at the Hazrati Imam in Tashkent worth seeing. The Chorsu bazaar is an immersive experience in the sights, smells, styles, products, and culture of the country. I loved seeing any of the ballet or opera productions at the Alisher Navoi theatre, riding the Metro to see the unique station stops, checking out the bizarre Yangiobod bazaar, and visiting all the museums. Also, weekend trips into the mountains for hiking, sledding, skiing, horseback riding, and even a couple of camping trips.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Plenty. A local textile handicraft called Suzani, pottery and ceramics, Atlas and Adras fabrics (cotton and/or silk hand-dyed), hand-tied carpets and rugs, carved wood items, affordable custom-made clothing, local musical instruments, etc.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
So affordable. Very safe. The culture is a really interesting historical blend of Asia, the Middle East, India, and Russia, so it feels like no other place you've lived (unless you've lived in Central Asia before, but it's even more authentic and less modern than some of its neighbors).
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
The air quality can be very poor for prolonged periods during the winter. There really are very limited or very expensive modern international products available in country, so you need to be low maintenance, resourceful, and maintain a grateful mindset. The driving is crazy, but don't let that stop you from doing it, necessarily.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Totally. I was very sad to leave and would do it again. My kids were fine to be there, but fine to leave, too. My husband thought two years was enough and would not care to go back.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
American or European driving skills. Observe drivers and driving for a few weeks or months before you get behind the wheel yourself, and then maintain constant vigilance, be 100% defensive, exercise every precaution and don't expect any sort of normal behaviors from other drivers.
4. But don't forget your:
Sunscreen, sunglasses, camera, walking shoes, peanut butter, salsa, cooking spices, and basic Russian phrases.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Historically, they look to Amir Temur (Tamarlane) and Mirzo Ulugbek (his grandson), as heroes, but lingering post-Soviet buildings and overtones remain, as well as Old Silk Road influences. Of course, tourist books. And Google images of Uzbekistan.
6. Do you have any other comments?
Attitude is everything.
