Tashkent, Uzbekistan Report of what it's like to live there - 09/27/18
Personal Experiences from Tashkent, Uzbekistan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
We moved from the northern Virginia/DC metro area.
3. How long have you lived here?
One year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Spouse of a US diplomat.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is enormous! For a family of 5 (now 6), we were given a 5 bedroom and 3.5 bath stand-alone home, with a pool and lots of outdoor entertaining space. We don't have much green space, but enough for our dogs to do their business. Everyone I have spoken with is always super impressed with the their housing, and some have said it's the best they've seen in the Foreign Service!
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Produce is abundant, and when in season, an delicious! It is advised to clean all produce before consumption; I use a spray bottle with equal parts vinegar/water to clean all of our produce. You can find chicken, beef, and pork. Cheese varieties fluctuate throughout the year, and milk is shelf stable. I have been able to find pasteurized (and unpasteurized) goats milk, as well as a dairy-free milk option! For our family of six, I generally spend between US$30-50 on groceries each week (about 1/4 of what I would spend in the states). There are plenty of snack-like foods, and alternatives that are adequate. Eating out is also extremely affordable, and there are some delicious restaurants, and coffee shops are plentiful! Use your consumables for liquids/cuisine-specific sauces and spices/wines.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
I wish I had brought more wine, haha! More mouthwash, maple syrup, and vinegar. Anything else that I've wanted or needed to replenish, I've been able to get via pouch. I brought plenty of shampoo/conditioner/body washes and peanut butter, and there's a decent Nutella alternative in the stores.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are many different types of cuisine, including a pretty legit Mexican restaurant (probably one of the most expensive places around), and delicious sushi, even in a double landlocked country. There is decent pizza places, western type places (Urban Food is the BEST), and KFC has finally opened!! Express 24 is the delivery app that will bring everything from coffee -> breakfast -> meals -> dessert, right to your door...or wherever you may be! Delivery charges are between $1-2
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
I have had ZERO pest issues, and it has been FABULOUS! That said, one friend finds scorpions in her home, more often than I'd like to say, and another friend has an issue with ants. There are no mosquitos, no fleas, no ticks, no roaches. It's great!
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Send and receive via pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Availability is great and about half speak decent to good English. Affordability is also great; roughly US$25/day for full time. A lot of them will also multitask, doing both housework and babysitting as needed.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The embassy has a small, but effective gym. There are also a few around town that some people use. I don't have much info on them, though.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
This is a total cash economy, and you will have a large stack of bills with you at all times. It is common for men to wear a purse/wallet to carry their cash around. I will add that I NEVER feel uncomfortable carrying large amounts of bills while going about my daily business.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There is an English-language Catholic service on Sundays. There is also a fairly large LDS group, here, and they meet someone's home every Sunday.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You can get by without any knowledge of Russian, although it will be difficult. Many locals under the age of 30 try to learn and speak English, and area willing to help out. Google Translate app is also extremely helpful. I arrived with a pretty good grasp of the alphabet, and that has proved to be very beneficial. Learning some pleasantries (Hello, good bye, please, thank you) and giving an honest effort will go a long way with the locals.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Definitely.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are abundant, and there is a reputable app for hailing a metered cab. There is a fast train to get you to Samarkand or Bukhara for a weekend get away. Tashkent has one of the more ornate and stunning underground metro systems in the world! Google it, it s gorgeous and clean! Photography of the metro stations has recently been approved by the local government.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Bring something that is sturdy, as there are many potholes, and unpaved roads all over the city. Chevy has a stronghold on the market, but international parts are easier to get (Toyota, Mercedes, etc). You could also just purchase a car from someone departing post.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
There are 2 internet service providers that embassy personnel use at home. Evo+ is available in ALL the homes, but has connectivity issues, at times, and limited data during the day. Evenings and weekends are unlimited, though. Sarkor is available to about half the homes (in the Maxim Gorky/Mirzo Ulugbek neighborhood), and has an unlimited plan for about US$100/month. I am able to stream Netflix/Hulu/Amazon TV, while being on the computer, or working on other devices, without interruption. I believe it is in the process of being changed, so that all homes will be able to have Sarkor.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Bring an unlocked phone to put a local sim card into. Beeline is organized through the commissary, and is very affordable.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
There are a couple vets in town and one of them will make house calls. There is no quarantine. It is fairly easy to get large dogs into the country, but is more difficult to get them out. They come in on the Lufthansa Cargo plane, but have to go out of Almaty, because Uzbek Air doesn't have enough space for anything larger than a 500 series kennel, and then there are only 3 spaces, per flight.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
With the EFM hiring freeze lifted, many EFMs found employment at the embassy. Some work at the school.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
I've heard of people volunteering at some preschools, and TIS.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business/business casual at the embassy. Public ranges from traditional garments to western clothing. Women wear shorts and sleeveless shirts, just nothing too short or revealing. If you travel outside of Tashkent, things get much more conservative.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
I feel totally safe in and around Tashkent. As a woman, I frequently walk the streets of the neighborhood, without any concern. I can go to the stores, or the bazaars without an issues. The people are friendly, and love kids. Driving is probably the most dangerous part of living here.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The air quality is terrible, most days. Dust is everywhere, all the time, which can cause some asthmatic and sinus issues. It is also terrible for those who were contacts. Be sure you have plenty of back up pairs, AND a pair of glasses. Wash your produce, and don't drink the tap water. The Med Unit is staffed with an American PA, hired by the state department, a local Dr./pediatrician, a local nurse and EFM receptionists.
Regular checkups/vaccines/tummy aches and such can be treated at the embassy. There is an international clinic that is staffed by a variety of expat physicians, and they have more equipment to provide tests/scans. Anything that would require a procedure or hospitalization would be medically evacuated to London.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
As mentioned above, air quality sucks. I believe purifiers have now been approved to be distributed in all homes; we're just waiting for that to become effective.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Again, air quality can have an effect on asthma and sinus issues. Wash the produce and don't drink the tap water. They aren't super conscious of food allergies, so you just have to be cautious. TIS has specific tables where peanut products can be consumed and the rest of the campus is peanut free. You CAN find gluten-free products, if you look for them. There is a Bob's Red Mill store in town.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
It's probably a good idea to get away every six months, or so. Traffic will grate on your nerves. The CLO does a fantastic job of keeping gatherings on the calendar, and that helps to keep the blues away. Its really a fun place to explore!
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Climate is dry, all year, really. Spring is Mar-May and lovely. Summer is June-August and HOT!! Make friends with someone who has an outdoor pool, if you don't have one. Fall is Sept-Nov and lovely. Winter is Dec-Feb and pretty frigid.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Tashkent International School (TIS) is an IB school that all the embassy kids attend. It is a lovely school, that is steadily improving the way it operates. The biggest frustration is the last minute notification of info/events. My kids (all in elementary school) love their classes/teachers/after school activities. There is a British School and a French school, but they are mostly attended by locals, and staffed by all local teachers. There is also a homeschooling group, if that is something that would better suit your needs.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Accommodations are on a case by case basis. Contact the school to discuss possibilities for your child.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
TIS has a 3yo and a 4yo program, on the same campus as the other grades. There are a couple of local preschools that some embassy kids attend; one is a Russian speaking school, and the other is Russian/English.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Many after school activities are available through TIS, for their students. Cross country, soccer and basketball are all competitive in the high grades. Drama is offered starting in fourth grade, and choir is growing and has an amazing teacher!
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
It's a small-medium community; about 60 direct hires, and their families. Lots of LARGE families (4+ kids) and kids of all ages. Morale is great, and gatherings/dinners/events always have a great turnout.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Meeting for coffee, monthly Happy Hours/Trivia Nights, hosting small (or large) dinners, Monthly CLO EFM coffee mornings. Being active in the TIS PTO is a great way to stay connected. There is also TWIG (Tashkent Womens International Group), which brings together women from all over.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Singles...meh. Couples, sure. Families - absolutely!
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Not in my opinion. It is a very conservative, primarily Muslim country.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
No issues, really. Men are superior, here, but they aren't particularly unkind to women. As mentioned before, I don't feel uncomfortable or unsafe going out by myself.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
It's such a neat place to explore, especially traveling along the Silk Road. Discovering the cultural artistry/textiles. The friendly people, the inexpensive cost of living, the housing...there are a lot of perks to living in Tashkent.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Visiting Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva, Fergana Valley.... going into the Chimgan Mountains for hiking, or sledding in the winter. Visiting the bazaars are always fun, too.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Absolutely shopping post. Rugs/carpets out the wazoo! Gorgeous suzanis and ikat/adrass textiles.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Housing, cost of living, and morale of the community
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I wish I had known to throw out my preconceived notions of a "stan" country. The worst part is probably the complexity of flying in and out of the country... although more and more direct flights are becoming available, to more locations.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely! I probably wouldn't have fought my husband as much about putting at the top of out bid list.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Preconceived notions of living here. Leave behind your urgency of daily living you experience in a metropolitan US city.
4. But don't forget your:
Moisturizer and sense of adventure.
5. Do you have any other comments?
It really is a gem of a place. Don't hesitate to explore this region of the world.
