Baku, Azerbaijan Report of what it's like to live there - 12/19/24
Personal Experiences from Baku, Azerbaijan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. I have also lived in Okinawa, Japan; Lilongwe, Malawi; Lagos, Nigeria; Ankara, Turkey; and Kolkata, India.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Our home is in Houston, Texas There are no direct flights, however, there are one stop flights going through either Frankfurt or Houston. It's usually about five or so hours to either hub then around a 12 hour flight to Houston.
The challenge getting into or out of Azerbaijan is that nearly all of the international flights arrive and depart in the middle of the night between 2:00 am and 4:00 am. This makes short weekend trips to Europe a challenge as you lose a day flying in the middle of the night.
3. What years did you live here?
2023 - 2026.
4. How long have you lived here?
Just of a year at this point. We have another two to go.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
There is a mix of housing options:
Royal Park is a gated suburban style housing cluster approximately 30 to 60 mins away from the embassy depending on traffic. It's made up of both diplomatic personnel, oil and gas expats, and wealthy Azerbaijanis and surrounds the TISA International School. The benefit to Royal Park is that there are a ton of families and kids for social activities and you don't feel like you're in the Embassy fish bowl.
Izmir villas is about halfway between Royal Park and the Embassy. These are also single family homes but the community consists of only around 10 residences. There are a lot restaurants and stores within walking distance and the commute is much shorter but you're much less likely to find kids of similar ages if that's a concern.
We also have a number of high rise apartments near the JW Marriott and Hilton hotels. These are within walking distance of the Embassy and have a ton of nightlife options. This is definitely the way to go if you don't have kids.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can find just about anything that you're looking for although availability might not be year round and you might need to shop a bit for it. I'm from Texas and I like my meat but I have not been able to find a butcher that can cut a brisket yet. That being said I have found good steaks. Look for the "Milli" brand in the boxes. They're not always there but when I see them I stock up and put them in the freezer. If there's something you can't find, usually you can find it in the Port of Baku grocery store which is a high end grocery with niche items, but you'll pay for them.
Local items and produce are much cheaper than in the US. Specialty and imported items will be higher. If you cook yourself you will save money on groceries here.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Tex-Mex things. I've learned to make my own salsa and tortillas. Lavash and pita bread are not the same. Maple syrup is a must bring.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Local restaurants are good but Azerbaijani food tends to be greasy and heavy. It's not something you can do every day. There are a number of good restaurants. Russian and Turkish restaurants as well as Asian Fusion are popular. Just about every place delivers through "Wolt" or "Bolt Food" apps.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Not really, this is not a tropical environment.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We use DPO. It has to come through Tblisi and takes about three weeks for things to get here.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is readily available. We have a maid/nanny which we pay 600 manat a month. Most expats pay 50 to 100% more than that since they require English language skills. People that have been working for the international community for a long time have bloated their salaries well above the local rates. If you have some Russian or Azerbaijani language skills or are willing to use google translate you can find someone on the local economy for a more reasonable price.
3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
This is one of the safest cities I've ever lived in. The government is watching everything that everyone is doing. Crime is very minimal.
For those living in apartments, many people jog along the waterfront. There are a few people that cycle from Royal Park early in the morning on the weekends but traffic is dangerous here and I wouldn't recommend it.
4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are a number of gyms in the city but it is seen as a upper class activity and they are pricey. Most do not open before 9 a.m. which makes it hard to workout before work. Embassy employees have access to the gym at the Landmark hotel which has decent facilities, a lap pool and opens at 6:30 am.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are widely accepted. Sometimes people have trouble getting the physical card to work, however, apple pay seems to always go through. Visa seems to be the most widely accepted. I haven't found any place that takes American Express.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Anything that you could learn would be helpful. Locals open up a lot more if you try to speak a bit of Azerbaijani. You can get by with Google translate and Bolt for taxis.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
It would be challenging. They do not design sidewalks and buildings with disabilities in mind here. The Embassy itself does not have any accessible areas except in the consular visitor section.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
They're safe. You can go from one end of the city to the other for about five manat by taxi so that is what most people use.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
I don't recommend electric. There are a few charging stations in the city. They were put in for the COP 29 environmental conference, however, I doubt they will be maintained and will not likely last very long. This is an oil country. Take a vehicle that you don't mind getting dinged up a little. Traffic is chaotic. I would describe it as a mix between Indian traffic and Turkish.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
High-speed internet is available and sponsors usually set it up prior to your arrival.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
I keep my US T-mobile number for things I need in the US. It's slow but it works out here. Other than that I use my work number. Azercell is a provider that others use and they don't seem to have issues with it.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
There are vets and kennel services available. We don't have any pets so I have not looked into it. Items for larger dogs are very hard to find.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Dress code is business casual or suit and tie depending on your section.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
None, this is a very safe city.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care here is terrible. It is very common for doctors to bribe their way through medical school and they are all suspect. Everyone I know who has had issues with the medical care provided here even by the doctors that the Embassy recommends. Get anything done before coming and plan on seeing someone while on R&R.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
After my last tour in India I don't think the air quality is bad at all. It's definitely worse than the US but the worst days here are probably equal to our best in Kolkata.
4. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
It gets cold and windy in the winter but most people like it because they head up to Shahdag for skiing.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It's a fairly moderate climate. Hot in the summer but not overly so and cold in the winter. In Baku itself it doesn't get much below freezing but the wind is something else. Bring a heavy coat.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The two main schools that everyone go to are TISA, which is located inside Royal Park and BIS. People seem to be happy with both schools and their choice depends upon their housing location. BIS preschool is a bit cheaper than TISA.
With both schools I have heard that the math level is a bit behind the Washington DC metro area. And a few folks have complained after leaving that they needed to get a tutor to bring their kids up to speed.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Preschool is available at both TISA and BIS. Most people hire a nanny for daycare.
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
There are a number of sports and activities available through the schools. Quality is limited as the school doesn't let them use any school equipment and they are usually run by parent volunteers. If you have Azerbaijani or Russian language your options open up a little in the city.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
There is a large expat community and morale is generally pretty high. Many of the oil expats stay here for five or more years at a time.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There are lot of events held throughout the year. From Embassy national days to formula one to winter balls. There is a never ending list of things to do.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's great for families due to the good schools and large community. I know a few single men who have dated here and gotten married. Single women have a harder time as Azerbaijani culture is more geared toward traditional roles than the west.
4. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Attending Formula 1 was a lot of fun. Skiing up in Shahdag and the tea farms down in Lenkeran. There are things here, you just need to look for them.
5. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Many people buy rugs here but most of the handicrafts are actually imported from Turkey.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Take things as they come and accept it for what it is. It's a little bit of Europe, it's a little bit of Turkey, it's a little bit of Russia.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes
