Hyderabad, India Report of what it's like to live there - 03/16/15
Personal Experiences from Hyderabad, India
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, I've lived in some Asian and European cities for a bit too.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Florida, technically. I haven't done the connection, but I imagine it's near 20 hours. Best flight would probably be with Emirates or British Airways, but both have two connections, at the least.
3. How long have you lived here?
Been living here about 9.5 months now.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
I work at the U.S. Consulate.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
They are moving more people out towards where the new Consulate is going to be, so people are kind of spread out. Some people are out in Banjara Hills, an older, more established place, about 20-25 minutes from the now-Consulate. Some people are out in Hi-Tech city with a lot more expats and all the new, shiny things, but it's about a 40-45 minute commute to the now-Consulate, with it being probably a 10-15 minute commute to the new Consulate. Some are in-between. All the houses - even the apartments for singles - are huge and spacious with multiple guest bedrooms.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You need to work around what you can't find, or bring a lot in your HHE. It depends on if you want Western name brand or go with an off, maybe different tasting Indian brand as to cost. You can find Doritos, but it will be US$10/bag. Or eat Indian biscuits for US$2/bag. You can find some vegetables, but not a lot of greens/salads/kale or the like. Household supplies are fine and easy - pretty cheap too. You can also order from the commissary. All alcohol should come from the commissary in Delhi. Salad items, lemons, and cheeses you'll have to get through the Park Hyatt, which will be a bit more expensive.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
More peanut butter M&Ms and chips. Other than that, haven't run into needing much of anything. Probably just more liquid-like items. I brought a lot of stuff with me though.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Cheap and cheap. Fast food: KFC, Dominos, Pizza Hut, Subway, Papa John's, and McDonald's. They will deliver to your house in about 30 minutes. The Pizza is better than the States, I find. The cafeteria in the Consulate is super cheap and delicious. We go for a buffet on Friday at the local Chiron Fort Club Palace and it's about US$5 for a full buffet. Sunday brunch at Olive will be US$30 for all you can eat and sangria. Park Hyatt will be US$50 for all you can eat gourmet and mimosas. Cost range for every level, but even a nice dinner will only be about US$15-$30/person. There are American chains like Hard Rock and Chilis, but not quite the same.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Just lots of mosquitoes. Lots of them. I haven't used much repellent and been bitten a lot and have been lucky thus far. But come rainy season, you needs lots and lots of repellent wearing it and in the house.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Through the Consulate pouch. I sent something by DHL once to Germany and it was really expensive.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Very, very inexpensive. I have a driver and a housekeeper (daily and 3 times/week) for about US$250/month. I didn't think I'd get a housekeeper at first, but it's really, really nice and easily affordable.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Almost every housing compound has a free gym that's pretty good. The Consulate also has a gym that is good. You can get a membership to Gold's Gym, but it's really expensive. Yoga and Pilates, even for a class by yourself, is much cheaper than in the States.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
ATMs are everywhere, but they just might not work at times. Credit cards can be used in most grocery stores, hotels, and higher-end stores. Carry cash, as it's easier.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
All types. Catholic, Christian, probably Hindu and Muslim as well, though those may be harder to find outside the local language.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Not really much of any - especially if your driver speaks English. Most things are in English and most places have English menus/speak English.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Hmmm...probably. Most places have elevators, but they are tiny. There are no sidewalks, and smaller restaurants/stores will not have a wheelchair ramp.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
I've heard a lot of people taking 1st class A/C trains having a fine experience. Taxis and tuktuks are fine, same with uber. I have not - and will not - try the buses. Affordable: yes to all.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
I would just buy one here. They're cheap and more suited to the roads here.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yup! And really really cheap! It'll drop at times, but it's reliable and they'll come fix stuff right away.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
I just use the Consulate provided phone. I would say buy one here, as they are generally substantially cheaper than the U.S.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
I'm not sure. Yes, the pet care is pretty good. We have a local vet most people use - and while they can be harsh/crass in customer service sometimes - they are clean, efficient, and helpful for the most part; and moreover, they're 24/7. Most people at post have animals or get animals here.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Most of the expats I know work at the MNCs and are transferred here from the U.S. - so I'm not sure about local economy.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Tons. India has a vibrant civil society, and you can find any cause you want here to help out with.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
More conservative than Delhi/Mumbai. You will see women in full hijab and burka. Then you will see women in saris. There aren't very many people wearing Western-style clothing outside of the younger people in the malls. Best to wear the very comfortable salwar kamez or kurta and leggings if you're a lady. Men can get away with slacks and a t-shirt/button up.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There was a terrorist attack in 2013, but nothing since then. I think some people are waiting for Hindu-Muslim violence to break out, since there are a lot of Muslims here - but nothing thus far, and I'm not sure I actually anticipate that happening.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
I think medical care is hit or miss. There are some really good, really cheap procedures. But there are horror-stories of inadequate sanitation standards. Just be really careful on which hospital you go to, and make sure you watch them clean/sterilize the instruments.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
I would say it's good in the summer, moderate in the fall, and moderate/unhealthy in the winter. Honestly, it's probably 10x better than Delhi in the winter. There were only a few days where you would look out and tell that it was smoggy. The rest of the day: blue, clear skies.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Be careful. Probably a lot of dust pollutants from the smog. Hard to get around a gluten allergy, I would imagine too. Peanut allergies might be difficult too.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The rainy season last year wasn't very rainy. Occasional thunderstorms outside of the rainy seasons. Hot, hot, in the summer: but it's a dry heat, at least. Somewhat humid in the rainy season. Very, very nice - nearly perfection - in the winter.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
I know that people seem to like the preschool - but I don't know anything more than that.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
I think it's pretty good in Hi-Tech city, from what I've heard. At the Consulate, morale ebbs and flows with the visa applicant workload. The size is pretty small, but growing as more and more companies come to Hyderabad to set up shop.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Honestly, most people either hang out at the hotels (Park Hyatt, Westin) or entertain in their homes. Not a big club/bar scene in Hyderabad, though there are a few. There are some good restaurants open fairly late that have open-patios that are nice. Most people entertain at their homes, which is really nice and easy clean-up when you have a housekeeper!
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes, good for all types. Couples can explore. Single life is harder, but most of the couples and families are still welcoming and we travel/hang out more as a group than anything. A lot of whole Consulate get togethers, which are really nice. Families have easy childcare with good daycare and housekeeping help. I would not expect to date here. Most people in their 20s are already married.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I wouldn't think so. Most of India isn't - and especially conservative, Muslim leaning Hyderabad.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
As with most of India, women are ignored when there's a male present. Waiters will talk to the male specifically, and expect him to order. Just ignore it and order for yourself and stand up for yourself as a woman. I haven't seen religious prejudices: it's a very mixed city since the Nizam's first ruled in the 1700/1800s. Indians tend to favor lighter colored people - I did see an African-American coworker at the airport get pulled into extra security that I imagine is racial in tone (as I didn't get pulled and I was right next to them). I wouldn't go out at night as a woman alone, but would be fine most other times of the day in most places.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Traveling, honestly. Both in India and outside of it. It's REALLY cheap to get to the Maldives and Andaman Islands from here - some places that only the super wealthy can ever go to. Take advantage of that. There's so many places in India to see, with all kinds of things for whatever you like. I really liked Pondicherry, and I'm really looking forward to going to the Maldives in April, going on a tiger safari in May, and hiking the Himalayas next March.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There's the standard tourist fare in Hyderabad which are good: Chowmallah Palace, Taj Falaknuma, Charminar, etc. Some good Western-style eateries, which is nice. KBR Park is a good stroll in the evening or weekend. Definitely go to Taj Falaknuma. There are also some good weekend trips to Warangal and Bidar.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Bidri-ware is the most common, and is local to the region. Very beautiful gifts. Also, textiles (quilts, scarves, bags, clothes) and dishes/china.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Compared to the rest of India: the weather, for certain. Hyderabad was just ranked highest in India for standard of living. There are some days that are smoggy, but there are almost always blue skies and very little rain (even during the monsoon season). It doesn't get very humid either, so even when it's hot, it's not bad.
Specific to India: It's pretty cheap - even with having a housekeeper and driver, you can still save a lot of money. And it's REALLY easy to travel. Hyderabad isn't a hub itself, but there are flights all the time to Doha, Dubai, or Abu Dhabi that'll connect you to pretty much anywhere in the world. Not only that, but it's really easy to get to any of the other major cities in India through Hyderabad, any time of the day. Really, really easy jumping off point from travel. So, I could probably save more money if I didn't travel so much! But there's so much to see!
10. Can you save money?
Oh yeah! Tons! Even if you splurge and travel a lot, it's easy to save.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I'm not sure - haven't been too surprised by much, honestly.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yeah, it's not too bad.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothes - unless you plan to travel, but keep them stored most of the year!
4. But don't forget your:
Low expectations - honestly, it sounds bad, but it's not. India can be rough, but it can be a lot of fun and it's not that bad. Just, when you want to ask yourself "Why," ask "why not" and be surprised when they have something on the menu!
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/014200412X/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=014200412X&linkCode=as2&tag=thesunspousunder&linkId=NGUV4WZA3QOFIELL
