Hyderabad, India Report of what it's like to live there - 09/20/16
Personal Experiences from Hyderabad, India
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, 5th. We lived in Latin America and Europe.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
It takes about 24 hours to travel from Hyderabad to Washington, D.C. or San Francisco. Connections through Doha, Dubai, London, New Delhi.
3. How long have you lived here?
18 months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Foreign Service.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Most people live in spacious apartments, although there are also a few houses. Apartments are fairly large, located 20-25 minutes from the consulate. Houses are at the half way point between the consulate and the International School - minimum 60 minutes commute but more like 90 minutes during rush hour. Houses are big, but have recurring maintenance issues. None of the houses have adequate yards, and few allow dog walking on premises -- consider this when bringing a dog. Traffic is the worst part about living here, it takes way too long to get anywhere - it takes the fun out of everything.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Shopping is basic and expensive at the 2 stores that cater to expats. "Q-Mart and Nature's Basket" import some products that Americans are used to; the quality of fresh fruits and vegetables can be disappointing. You can never find everything you need in one place. You can order food items from the commissary in New Delhi but you have to wait 2-6 weeks and pay charges for shipping. Alcohol can be bought from the commissary; Kingfisher beer can be bought locally. We supplement a lot with Amazon. Chicken and mutton are available at most supermarkets. You can find some pork bacon at Q-Mart. Beef is available if you can find a Muslim butcher, but it is very tough. Some cured meats such as ham and bologna, as well as fancy cheeses, can be bought at premium prices at the Living Room, which located in the lobby of the Park Hyatt in Banjara Hills. You can find pork, but again, it tastes rather different.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
This is what I shipped and I was very happy I did: coffee, hot sauces, good BBQ sauce, salsa, jasmine rice, flour, pastas, canned tomatoes, tomato paste, canned beans, lots of broth, detergent, dryer sheets, liquid soap, garbage bags, zip lock bags, aluminum foil, saran wrap, vanilla essence, instant yeast, toilet paper, paper towels, lotions and shampoos, hair dye, contacts solution, sunscreen, mosquito repellent, kids toothpaste and mouthwash. Liquids and aerosols cannot be ordered through pouch, so plan ahead. The rest you can order from Amazon in the U.S. Bring heavy duty UPS as the power goes out several times a day.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are very few consistently good restaurants for Westerners. McDonald's, KFC are around, Hard Rock Cafe, Domino's, Pizza Hut, Pappa John's. No beef or pork products are served. Cost is comparable to the U.S - not so much the taste. The large hotels have some decent restaurants - cost is comparable to the US.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes are a huge problem for most of the year and they carry Dengue and other mosquito-borne diseases. Prevention is key. I use repellent on all family members every day.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Mail comes through diplomatic pouch and it takes an average of 3 weeks. Note that when you send packages to the U.S. or receive commissary shipments, you have to pay an additional freight charge - and it is a hassle to return anything. We just don't do it.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Everyone hires a driver, as traffic, road and driving conditions are illogical and dangerous. The traffic rules that are normal to us Westerners do not apply here. People also hire a full time or part time housekeeper/nanny. Costs are US$250 - $300 for each plus overtime pay. Quality is often not great; it takes a while to find the right person.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Many apartment complexes have basic gyms, but they lack a lot. In fact, even the die-hard active people avoid them. The consulate has a decent gym.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
ATMs are plentiful and we use our credit card in stores with no problem.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Technically none, but I find it difficult and frustrating to communicate. Talking about being lost in translation! Far too often we can't communicate with locals or we mis-communicate. Telugu or Hindi are not easy to pick up.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
It is not a good city for people with disabilities. There are no sidewalks in the city, no ramps; you can never walk anywhere without risking your life with local traffic; very sad.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No, trains and buses are unsafe. Uber and Meeru taxi companies are affordable, but language is an issue when giving directions; they sometimes can't find your place, as roads are never marked. Some use the GPS, others don't. It is hit and miss; before you even realize it, you end up in a part of the town you should not be in.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
The bigger, the better: it shelters you from accidents and it simply handles the streets and potholes better. You cannot make it in the city without a car. I cannot stress enough the importance of having a car in a place where distances are large and the city is not walk-able. Import restrictions, right-hand drive, and red tape make purchasing a car challenging - 6-7 weeks; the best bet is to buy from a departing officer and even before coming to Hyderabad. If you buy a new car you should expect to have dings and scratches instantly.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
One of the many disappointing aspects of living here is the internet. Contrary to common belief, Internet in India is not fast, but unreliable and expensive for the speed. It is partly due to the fact that there are millions on people surfing on it at all times, partly due to the lack of infrastructure. We pay about US$40 a month for the fastest speed available in our community and we find ourselves disappointed every day.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
A prepaid rechargeable SIM card from Airtel. Of course, you need a ton of paperwork to get even a SIM card. There is no such thing as "unlimited" here. Data packs are available from 2-13 GB; the most expensive data pack would be about $25 and it lasts for 28 days.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
There are no decent vets. There is one kennel that people use when traveling. No quarantine. Bringing a pet is a cumbersome process. People often drive to Bangalore/Chennai, about an 8 hour drive, so they can fly out with their dog/cat on the same plane. If I recall correctly, there are restrictions to bringing your pet in cabin or excess baggage. Cargo seems to be fine. Check with the shipping department.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not on the local economy. Local salaries are low. Part time EFM jobs at the consulate are available and they go unfilled for months.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
There are lots of NGOs, orphanages, one animal shelter. Plenty to do if you like volunteering.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual at work; conservative Indian ware out in the streets, with long sleeve shirts and long pants for men; saris and kurtas for women. Shorts are uncommon as are skirts or dresses.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
India has had its share of terrorism, but it is not evident. Wherever you go to a public place, you will be frisked for guns or explosives. Women are generally at risk; gender disparity leads to sexual harassment, eve-teasing, rapes and violence. Constant staring from every direction is very annoying. Beggars hassle you. People of African origin are discriminated against. For the first time in my life I feel uncomfortable here.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Yes; everyone gets sick here, some more often than others. Strands of disease here seem to be much stronger than anywhere else we have lived. When you get sick, you are pretty much down for days. Most common illnesses are stomach-related and then there is the flu. A simple cut takes twice as long to heal. Medical care is horrible, and the consulate med unit is no different. With that said, some people elect to have surgeries here because of the low cost.All serious cases are medevac'ed to Singapore or Bangkok.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Quality of air varies from unhealthy to very unhealthy. You can smell the pollution. Some people develop respiratory issues. The smell of India is always in the air i.e. open sewers, burned garbage, body odor, human waste - you name it, it is here.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
It is very dusty here all the time and so everything is the house is always covered in dust, from floors to walls. The air quality is bad, so some develop respiratory problems.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Respiratory issues; depression.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
There is a dry season and a monsoon season. They say that the hot season is May-June, but it is hot as early as March and as late as September. Temperatures easily reach 120+ F, which means that it is unpleasant to be outside. The rest of the months are in the low 90 F's. It rains in the monsoon season, sometimes quite a bit. The city has no drains, so it floods every time there is a bid rain.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
None of the schools in Hyderabad are vetted by the State Department. Basically, there is one choice as far as international education. The International School of Hyderabad is located on the International Crop Research Institute for Semi-Arid Tropics (ICRISAT) campus, outside Hyderabad, which is 60-90 minute commute on the school bus each way. The school offers an IB program. It has been OK for elementary school; we supplement with private tutoring. High school may not be the greatest and gender ratio may come into play. Although far from being a real International School as far as organization and management, it is the best choice for Westerners.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
None.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, several choices.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
None. It is sad. The school offers soccer once a week as ASA and volleyball in MS.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Expat community is small. Some Americans work for large firms in High Tech City. There is a small expat association, called TEA. Overall, morale is affected by the quality of life; everyone has different coping mechanisms and different degrees of depression at different times. At work, morale is not too bad. We all try to support each other the best we can. People do curtail, it is a not an easy posting.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
People sometimes host parties in their homes, or game nights, or go to happy hours, get together for brunches, or hang out at the Park Hyatt and the Westin. There are several decent movie theaters, which show U.S. movies for the first 2 weeks of the release. There are several malls if you are into shopping. There are 2-3 golf courses and one horseback riding club - which we never tried, it is too far away. Some get together to play soccer once a week. That's pretty much it. Most travel for real fun.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Life is Hyderabad is challenging in every way. This is a hardship post and for good reasons. There is nothing to do for entertainment besides going to brunches or malls on weekends. Quality of life is not that great, which is why getting out of the country is a must. I would say this city could be OK for families with babies, or empty-nesters and it is a good option for tandems.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
No. Being gay is a crime in India.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Hyderabad has a religious mix of Hindus, Muslims, and a few Christians. You would think that everyone can live together peacefully. Gender prejudice is huge; so is violence against women and people of African descent.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Saving money, buying furniture and carpets, cheap domestic help. The city is not a tourist spot, there is very little to discover. It is big, dirty, crowded and polluted. The triangle - New Delhi-Agra-Jaipur is of course a neat experience, so are Goa and Kerala.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
No hidden gems. Spending the night at the Taj Falaknuma Palace, a 6 star hotel converted from a palace is the highlight of Hyderabad, at US$300 per night. Social gatherings at people's houses, Sunday brunches and massages at 5-star hotels seem to be common pastimes. There are a couple of golf courses that people use whenever it is not unbearably hot.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Antique furniture, carpets, tapestries, Kashmiri shawls, pashminas, wood carvings, colorful fabrics.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Saving money, buying furniture and carpets, cheap domestic help. The city is not a tourist spot, there is very little to discover. It is big, dirty, crowded and polluted.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Everything is hard to accomplish and takes several tries. Nobody cares about anything. Don't try to understand it. India has been a constant assault to my senses: the pollution, the smell of the city, the rampant poverty, ignorance, the amount of people, the body odor, the traffic, the lack of common courtesies, lack of personal space, the constant staring have make it difficult for me to live here. Add the numerous daily power outages, water outages, maintenance issues, limited entertainment options. Life here grinds you down. If all of the above don't bother you, then you should be fine.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No. Never.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expectations of any kind; your independence and sense of privacy; your winter clothes, bikes, camping gear; your hopes for breathing clean air, walking or biking, or any outdoor time; your hope that your kids would do any interesting after school activities or sports. You will run out of patience, tolerance, and will look forward to the day you leave.
4. But don't forget your:
Meds - Pepto Bismo, Tums, Nyquil - sunscreen, mosquito repellent. Strong VPN, gadgets to boost your router signal, DVDs, AppleTv, Ipods, UPS.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Shantaram.
6. Do you have any other comments?
You need to mentally prepare yourself for this assignment. Think hard and weigh all your options before you decide to move here.
