Surabaya, Indonesia Report of what it's like to live there - 10/10/10
Personal Experiences from Surabaya, Indonesia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
yes
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC. Because of Fly America, up to 40 hours including one overnight layover
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.s. Embassy - FSO
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is excellent. A new Consulate is currently under construction in a high-income suburb, so housing stock is slowly shifting closer to where the new Consulate will be. Housing is divided between huge serviced apartments in a beautiful luxury high-rise(includes cable TV, a swimming pool, and membership in an on-site health club; internet service is available for an additional fee), and nice large homes with a small yard.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Everything can be found with a little searching, but anything imported will be at least double the price that you would pay in the States. Buy your wine and hard liquor from the Embassy, as imported liquor is outrageously expensive. Beer is more reasonable, as it is domestically produced.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Large size shoes and clothing can be a problem, though you can always have your clothing made locally very inexpensively. Grated parmesan/romano cheese is impossible to find. Everything else is available, though as noted earlier at double the price or more if imported.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Most Indonesians eat at street side warungs (semi-permanent vendors) or 'kaki lima' carts that are pushed around the city. You can have a filling meal for less than one dollar! Or, go to the malls for restaurants with most meals ranging between $5 and $10 dollars, including well-known western chains. There are a few high-end restaurants, but they don't even come close to justifying their cost.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Forget it. With the exception of Papaya, a small supermarket chain that specializes in imported products, you are on your own. The average Indonesian earns less than $2 per day--most are happy just to have enough to eat, let alone the specialized options we westerners take for granted.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Dengue fever is ever-present even in the city at a low level. Mosquitoes are more of an issue during the rainy season, but are quite manageable in the city.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Consulate mail takes 2-4 weeks to arrive from the US.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Domestic help is available for $100-$150/month. Many will hire a driver and a domestic helper. A driver is strongly recommended if you have a car--the traffic is as bad as anything you can possibly imagine, with no concept of enforcement, safety, or even lane controls.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Those that live in the luxury apartments have membership to a gym and a pool. The new Consulate may have facilities. There are private clubs available, especially in high-end neighborhoods and the modern malls.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Debit cards can be used at the few modern malls that exist, but credit cards are useless. Debit cards can be used at local ATMs, which charge a relatively hefty transaction fee. The best option is to use cash, which Amcit employees can purchase from the Consulate cashier.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Jakarta Post has an English edition newspaper. Cable TV includes several English language stations, and cost is around $50/month.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Bahasa Indonesia is the official language and everybody can speak it, although on the street the locals also speak a local dialect of Javanese. English is present, especially in the business community, and at least in the larger cities you can always find people that speak at least some English.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Sidewalks, if they exist at all, are in extremely poor condition and often have large holes opening up to the storm sewers underneath. There are no accommodations for handicapped people overall.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Bluebird taxi is clean, modern, uses GPS technology, and very reasonable. Other taxis are slightly less expensive, but if you use a meter taxi you can traverse the entire city for less than $10. Local buses and bemos (color-coded vans with bench seating) are less than 50 cents, but be prepared for the crowded, hot, etc. but a great way to interact with locals. Again, except for the occasional crime of opportunity (pickpocket) they are safe. The inter-city trains have an Executive Class which provides air-conditioned cars, large comfortable seats, and fares are cheap.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
The best option is buy a domestic vehicle from a departing expat. Imported vehicles (cars and motorcycles) have a high luxury tax. Don't bother shipping a vehicle from the US; local vehicles are right hand drive; shipped vehicles will sit in customs for at least 8 months and parts will be expensive. Sedans are fine for most travel--roads are not great but they are ok. Plan on getting lots of dings and scratches. Many buy small SUV's which are better when the roads flood. I purchased a domestically made motorcycle, which was fine for city use and great for navigating the massive traffic jams.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Speedy Internet is widely available, but unfortunately isn't very speedy. Except during peak evening hours, it is usually good enough to Skype.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Buy an unlocked phone locally, then pick up a SIM card (50 cents or so). Depending on which SIM card you buy, you can call back to the US for less than a 5 cents (!!!) per minute.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No quarantine, but be prepared to pay up to $3000 in entry fees to the Indonesian government for each dog, plus the normal fees for shipping a pet. Most expats use the company Groovy Pets
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Pet care is minimal here. Surabaya is predominantly Muslim, so dogs are only popular with expats and the Indonesian-Chinese communities
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Definitely not, unless you are already involved with an international corporation. Some become English teachers, but the pay is pretty low.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Batik, an ornate local motif used especially for shirts, coupled with black dress slacks is considered formal wear. Suits are also acceptable, though the batik is much more comfortable in a tropical climate. Slacks and dress shirt is standard wear at the Consulate.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Indonesia has terrorist concerns, and the Indonesian government aggressively pursues terrorist cells. That being said, the country overall is quite safe. Violent person on person crime is virtually non-existent, but as with any large city pick-pockets can be an issue.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
For serious medical problems people go to Singapore or Bangkok. Indonesian health care is OK for routine needs in the larger cities, but almost non-existent elsewhere. You can find modern dental care in Surabaya.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality in the city can be bad, but not as bad as the capital city of Jakarta. It is generally better during the rainy season, and air quality in the countryside is OK once you are away from heavily populated areas
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
There are three seasons in Surabaya, generally regarded as the hottest city in Indonesia: hot dry season roughly from May until end of August, really hot (95-100 every day) from September until beginning of rainy season and end of October/early November, and rainy season from November through April. It rarely rains all day during the rainy season; instead there are torrential downpours that last a couple hours and occasionally cause flooding. El Nino years lengthen dry season and La Nina years lengthen wet season.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There is an excellent international school close to the new Consulate.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Expant community is relatively small, and most of what is in Surabaya is business-related. More often than not I would be the only caucasian in a large mall.
2. Morale among expats:
Generally excellent. Those that do best dive into the local culture and community.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There are a few expat nightclubs, and the international hotels have entertainment. There are a handful of small nightclubs catering to locals, but be advised that as is often the case in Asia, even the high-end ones are firetraps with few exits.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
If you need a large expat community to be happy, you will be miserable here. If you're willing to engage with the locals, there are lots of cultural/social options.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
There is an active 'under the radar' gay community, a local support group, internet social groups, and the occasional 'gay-friendly' event at one of the (very few) commercial night clubs. Public affection, gay or non-gay, is frowned upon and will result in uncomfortable stares from the locals. Note: an international gay group attempted to have a conference at a 4-star Surabaya hotel, which ended up being disrupted and cancelled when local conservative religious groups intervened (after the local police protection was paid off and disappeared).
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Within Indonesian society, there is a lot of tension just under the surface directed almost exclusively towards fellow Indonesians. There is a cultural distrust of Chinese and Chinese-Indonesians, who are perceived as wealthy and exploitative of native Indonesians. The various Indonesian cultures and religions generally tolerate each other, though there are occasional mob situations resulting in violence. The Indonesian culture overall regards people with darker skin to be relatively poor, uneducated, and likely to be manual laborers--this is manifested by Indonesians that work outdoors completely covering their body even in the hottest weather, and the abundance of skin care products/soaps, etc that are openly advertised as having skin lightening agents.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
travel to remote unpolluted/unspoiled parts of the country; fishing with locals; riding my motorcycle to a semi-dormant volcano; people genuinely friendly; visiting Borobudor, one of the seven wonders of the world; wonderfully spicy hot food (warning: Indonesians have a love affair with fried foods); ability to travel absolutely anyplace in the country and feel perfectly safe
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There are a couple modern malls that have an abundance of restaurants, stores, and movie theaters which show both local and western films. Travel by train, plane, or automobile to volcanoes, beautiful beaches, cultural sites dating back hundreds of years. The city of Surabaya itself is definitely NOT a tourist destination, but it is the gateway to the eastern half of this amazing country.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Batik, and lots of it. Each area of the country has its own style. Tailored clothing is cheap. Teak furniture is a fraction of the cost. For something different, purchase carved stone statues locally (note--all those souvenirs in Bali were made elsewhere and available locally at a fraction of the cost).
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
You can save a lot of money; domestic help inexpensive; Surabaya is gateway to all of eastern Indonesia via air--domestic flights can be very inexpensive
11. Can you save money?
Yes. Even taking a taxi to work and buying lunch, I rarely spent more than $20/day. Travel is cheap (fly to Bali ROUND TRIP on a local airline for $60), and local fare is inexpensive.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely. Indonesia is an amazing country, and each culture is unique.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothes, aggressive behaviors, expectations of timeliness
3. But don't forget your:
patience, sense of adventure, sunscreen
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Buy the Lonely Planet guide to Indonesia, which I have found to be useful all over the country. Purchase the Tuttle Indonesian/English dictionary.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Not much out there about Surabaya. Check out the art film 'Cowboys in Paradise'to get an idea about what Bali is really about. Get some history and watch 'The Year of Living Dangerously'.
6. Do you have any other comments?
Avoid food poisoning:1--Avoid western foods--the locals don't know how to cook it (beef ALWAYS undercooked) and tell when something is going bad. 2--NEVER drink tap water; only drink bottled water. Make sure if you get a drink with ice cubes you know where they came from.3--If you eat at one of the street side vendors, bring your own plate/bowl, or eat where the food is set on a banana leaf. The roadside stands do not have running water, and only rinse their dishes in a bucket of dirty water. 3--It's usually not the local foot that makes you sick, but rather it is the plate it is served on.
