Surabaya, Indonesia Report of what it's like to live there - 11/03/18
Personal Experiences from Surabaya, Indonesia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Major cities in Europe and East Asia.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
There are no great routes from Washington, DC, to Surabaya. The main hubs connecting to Surabaya are Singapore, Hong Kong, Tokyo, and Kuala Lumpur. Total travel time from DC to Surabaya is between 24-30 hours and usually requires at least one lengthy connection and one or two short ones. For personal travel there are more plentiful and less expensive flights from Bali, a 45 minute flight from Surabaya.
3. How long have you lived here?
More than a year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
The U.S. Consulate offers two housing options, apartments in a high-rise luxury apartment building, and townhouses in a gated community shared with other expats and Indonesians. Both have advantages.
The apartments are large, have a nice view, and are located on a compound with a good swimming pool, gymnasium, and sauna, all of which are free to use by residents. There is also a large sward with a small playground. There are two good restaurants on-site, and several malls, grocery stores, and other restaurants are located within walking distance (should you want to do such a crazy thing) or a short taxi drive. Depending on traffic the commute to the Consulate is usually 15-30 minutes.
The townhouses are larger than the apartments, have tiny private yards, and are located next to the school attended by Consulate children. Townhouses have better amenities than the apartments including dishwashers, extra freezer(s), and capacious servants quarters. When school is not in session residents are able to use the school pool, track, etc. Restaurants and shopping are further away than in the apartments. One advantage of the townhouses is that they are located a short walk from the Consulate. By car it takes less than two minutes to get to work. Many residents use the Consulate gym which is well equipped, though not as nice at the one in the Apartments.
Where you get assigned is mostly a function of availability, but in general families with school age children are assigned to the townhouses while singles, couples, and families with young children are assigned to the apartments.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
The prices of staples like rice, eggs, and cooking oil are regulated by the government and are very inexpensive. The price of fruits and vegetables runs the gamut from very inexpensive (at local wet markets) to prices comparable to what you would find in the United States in higher-end supermarkets. Beef is very expensive and generally frozen. Most international supermarkets carry inexpensive pork products but selection is very limited and quality is less than you would find in the United States. Fresh seafood is excellent and inexpensive. Alcohol is heavily taxed, not for sale during Ramadan, and with the exception of the local beer (a Heineken clone), very difficult to find.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
More white wine.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are a handful of high-end Western restaurants in Surabaya, and that number is growing. Mid-range options are plentiful, as are a number of American Fast Food joints. Indonesian food is spicy and delicious, and available at all price points from street-peddler to clothe napkin. Thanks to large expat communities there are several good Japanese and Korean restaurants. Good Chinese restaurants are plentiful.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Nothing serious. Rats, small lizards, and the odd pterodactyl-like cockroach will occasionally make it into the home.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
It usually takes two-three weeks for letter and package mail to travel from the United States to the consulate. All mail is sent via pouch or Diplomatic Post to the Embassy in Jakarta before being routed to Surabaya. Mail is delivered to the consulate one-two times per week, and vice versa. Package mail often arrives in lamentable condition.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is inexpensive and often of excellent quality. The monthly minimum wage (which most domestic staff are paid) is about US$230 as of this writing. Many consulate families employ drivers, nannies, and housekeepers.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is an adequate gym at the consulate. The gym in the apartment complex is pretty good, and free to residents, but nothing compared to a members-only gyms in the United States. There are some private gyms.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are widely accepted in the parts of Surabaya expats usually frequent. Outside Surabaya, Bali, and a couple other big cities in the district cash is king. The largest bank notes is worth about six and a half bucks, so get used to carrying a fat roll of guap with you when you go on vacation.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are English-language Catholic and Protestant services in Surabaya. I would not be surprised if there are English-language Islamic services as well.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Very few people speak English. Local tutors, including live online programs of a high quality, are easily available and inexpensive.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Very much. Sidewalks and public transportation are nearly non-existent, as are wheelchair ramps and the like. It is possible to walk to local stores but it is an unpleasant experience that requires dodging traffic.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Bluebird taxis are magnificent. Invariably clean, punctual, and nine times out of ten chauffeured by a guy who actually knows where he is going. Rates are cheap. From the apartments to the consulate is about three bucks. Crosstown from the consulate to the airport about $12.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Any car is fine in principle, but Indonesia is a right-side drive country and there are a lot of regulations restricting the age and make of cars that may be imported. A lot of people successfully bid only to find out they can't bring their car. In general the best move is to buy a car locally, or rely on local taxis.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet is expensive and of middling quality. It can take a few days to several weeks to install depending on what provider you choose.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Most people use a local prepaid service.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Getting an animal into the country is possible, but is expensive (US$1000-$3000 per animal) and emotionally draining. Contact the Community Liaison Office (CLO) for details.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There is no bilateral work agreement between the United States and Indonesia, so EFMs are limited to jobs at the Consulate. Currently there are about three full-time positions, and three part-time positions.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
If I'm not mistaken Indonesian law does not allow EFMs to volunteer. Check with the CLO for details.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Formal dress is required maybe three times a year, however on those occasions local formal (a long sleeve batik-shirt of special fabric) is perfectly acceptable and worn by most people. Consulate attire is casual by department standards, and many American employees opt to wear the local equivalent of business casual (a short sleeve batik shirt or equivalent blouse). Surabaya is more culturally conservative than Jakarta, and East Java is the heartland of Indonesia's traditionalist variety of Islam. Outside of Bali and a few other tourist areas it is advisable to dress modestly.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
In May of 2018 there were several terrorist attacks in Surabaya, followed by police activity with additional suspected terrorists. These attacks truly seemed to shock the nation. Surabaya and East Java are, with good reason, considered among the safest and most tolerant places in Indonesia. Petty crime may be a problem, but I am unaware of any recent crimes committed against consulate families. We feel very safe here and frequently walk around our neighborhood and some of the surrounding barrios. Aside from two remote parts of Indonesia rarely visited by tourists, there are no travel restrictions for employees and EFMs.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
You may get food poisoning. You will get diarrhea, not infrequently. Nasty colds are frequent. Malaria and other mosquito-born diseases are not high risk in Surabaya but are elsewhere in Indonesia. Check with MED for the latest on Zika. Dentistry is limited, and decent medical care is extremely limited. Almost everything, including broken bones, are medically evacuated to Singapore. There is a local-hire general practitioner at post, and the embassy Medical Officer usually visits post a few times a year. Mental health type doctors occasionally visit as well.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality is moderate, and much better than places like Jakarta, Manila, Beijing, etc. Especially during the rainy season skies are often blue and you can have a good view of the volcanoes looming in the distance.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
A lot of Indonesian cuisine incorporates peanuts and shrimp-paste. Bottled water is provided by the consulate.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Surabaya is hot by Indonesian standards. Temps are between 85-100 degrees Fahrenheit all year long. It's slightly cooler during the rainy season.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are several options. All consulate families currently use the Surabaya Intercultural School. Most seem happy with it.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Contact the CLO.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Some limited options, which are adequate.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Very few American citizens outside the consulate, and aside from a sizable Korean, Japanese, and Chinese community, very few expats of any kind. Japan, China, Australia, and Taiwan all maintain consulates in Surabaya.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
No organized clubs that I am aware of, though the CLO does a good job of organizing regular social events and get togethers. Consulate families frequently host social events.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
This is a very family-friendly post. Singles who are interested in night-life may find it trying. There are few bars and clubs. The local culture tends to insularity, and making friendships can be difficult.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
It would depend on the expat. Surveys I've seen indicate that a large majority of Indonesians strongly disapprove of homosexuality, and that this disapproval largely transcends religious and ethnic lines. The national parliament periodically proposes a law that would criminalize sex outside of marriage, something that gay rights advocates fear could give an official imprimatur to increased harassment of the LGBT community. None of this would likely affect anyone assigned to the consulate, but it should give you an idea of the local milieu. That being said, most of the persecution of Indonesian LGBT people that you read about in the international papers takes place in Aceh, far from Surabaya's Consular district and culturally a different universe. In Surabaya, as elsewhere in Indonesia, there are organizations working to support the rights of LGBT Indonesians.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Surabaya and the surrounding province of East Java are famously tolerant. Foreigners should be aware that Indonesia officially recognizes six religions; Islam (Sunni), Catholicism, Protestantism, Hinduism, Buddhism, and Confucianism. Indonesian citizens are required to declare a religion which is printed on their identification cards. As a diplomat you won't have your religion printed on your diplomatic id, but people will frequently ask your religion as a conversation starter or ice breaker. Atheism seems to be strongly frowned upon and, strictly speaking, not legally possible.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Indonesia, and especially Java, are home to some of the world's most highly developed cultures. Indonesians are constitutionally obligated to celebrate that diversity, and it is on display everywhere you go. Traveling through the Consular district is like visiting different countries when it comes to food, art, religion, dance, and history. If you like spicy food, Indonesian is a culinary wonderland, especially when it comes to seafood. People are very friendly and tolerant, and are always thrilled to meet a foreigner who speaks Indonesian.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Short flights to world-class beaches are the major attraction. However there are also some very interesting hill-stations and other attraction just a few hours drive from Surabaya.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are, especially if weaving and batik are your thing.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It's not Jakarta.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
We had served in large East Asian cities before, and most of our surprises were pleasant (comparatively light traffic, green space, etc.). Someone who has never served in a large East Asian city should prepare themselves for traffic, pollution, and cheek to jowl humanity.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter wardrobe.
4. But don't forget your:
Modest, cotton, or summer attire.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Pramoedya Ananta Tour, considered by some to be Indonesia's greatest author, wrote an epic tetralogy set in Surabaya from the late nineteenth into the early twentieth century. It is a great introduction to Javanese culture. The tetralogy is known as "The Baru Quartet" and the first book is titled "This Earth of Mankind."
6. Do you have any other comments?
Don't be spooked by the recent terror attacks and the religious conservatism of East Java. In terms of safety, we feel quite safe, and would venture to say most of our colleagues agree. Most people who can extend at post, do. One of the joys of serving in Surabaya is the exposure to Indonesia's traditionalist (a technical term) type of Islam, which culturally differs in many important respects from the modernist/reformist (more technical terms) type of Islam more familiar to Americans whose primary exposure to Islam has been through the Middle-East.
