Jerusalem, Israel Report of what it's like to live there - 10/28/19
Personal Experiences from Jerusalem, Israel
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, we've had other posts in Europe and the Caribbean.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Travel here is relatively easy, usually through Newark or Miami.
3. How long have you lived here?
18 months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Work at the Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is superficially nice: spacious, well laid out, good amenities. The problem is maintenance. Things here aren't built to the same standard you'd expect in other countries and they break all the time. During the 18 months we've spent here, we spent 4 of them without hot water in a house that was heated through a boiler, and a different 4 months without reliable light or electricity. We've had multiple plumbing problems and A/C problems, and while none of these are uncommon for Israelis living in the area either, it seems to take the Embassy's facilities team a really long time to diagnose problems and correct them.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Expensive and very seasonal, but everything is available if you know where to go. There are non-Kosher butchers that sell sausage and pork products including bacon, there are a couple of stores that sell various American products, and at least 2 boutiques that have asian and mexican products. Shopping can be an all-day affair, but you can get what you want.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
More laundry and dish washing detergent, tomatillo green salsa, coffee, a couple of other minor things... but really, everything is available here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Almost everything in metro Jerusalem is closed on Shabbat, with the exception of a couple of restaurants in First Station and the Old City which you will get to know intimately and probably be very tired of by the time your tour is over. On normal days, quite a few restaurants deliver, but there isn't a central delivery platform like GrubHub/UberEats, etc. Most of those places don't have English menus and may not have English speaking staff, so if you don't have Hebrew you may have to go in and take out.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
We've had ants a number of times. We brought powdered borax, which has been a lifesaver.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO and Pouch are good for packages but letter mail seems to take forever (6-8 weeks) which is problematic if you've got business in the states or need to replace a lost credit card. Israeli post is broadly considered unreliable even among locals, and I wouldn't use if for anything more important than a birthday card.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Expensive, especially for full-time. We have a twice a week housecleaner through a service who comes for 4-5 hours and we pay him about US $60 per visit.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The Embassy has a gym at a local hotel that you can use for free, and many apartment buildings have some facilities. Gyms here are about the same cost as in the US, but are closed on Shabbat and often have women's hours and men's hours that you need to work around.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are widely accepted and safe, but more and more businesses and ATMs seem to be having problems taking US ATM cards so having cash as a backup is essential.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
I would strongly recommend at least a FAST course or basic level of Hebrew since that's the local language of most of the places we are housed and visit. You can get by without it and survive, but it puts you very firmly on the margins here. If no one at a business speaks English, you'll have to come back later to do whatever you need to do. Because you can't read the script, shopping and ordering in restaurants is challenging and you sort of guess and hope you're getting what you want. If you look even vaguely Jewish/Israeli people will refuse to speak English to you and sometimes give you worse service because they think you're a new immigrant who is too lazy to learn Hebrew.
Arabic will be helpful at work, in the old city and with cab drivers.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes, most of the city is not accessible, nor are most of the USG buildings in the mission.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
USG employees can't take the busses. The light rail is safe, affordable and often crowded but is a great way to get to the shuk and the old city if you're close to it. Everyone is pretty much reliant on taxis through the GETT app, which works just like Uber. It's pretty reliable and isn't too expensive.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
A small car that you don't mind getting banged up a bit. We get out pretty extensively and have never found a need for our high-clearance four-wheel drive car, and parking anything larger than a golf cart is a pain.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, it's available and can be installed to be working when you arrive.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Use a local provider and make sure it's one that can bill your US Credit card (Golan cannot). Partner is pretty common and allows free calls to the US which is nice.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
If you can get out of here without adopting a street cat, you're made of strong stuff than most of us. Vet services are available and good, we paid about $100 for all the shots and spaying with our girl cat, and $50 for the neutering for our boy cat.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Most expat spouses either telecommute or work in the mission.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Volunteering here is hard because everything seems so political. There are some one-day opportunities for olive picking and grape harvesting and the like, but sustained volunteer activities would be tough.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Formal dress is rarely required, the mission tends to be very business casual internally with suits and ties for high level outside meetings.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Constant security concerns. You'll get to know your "SAFE" and "Red Alert" apps very well, and there's enough stabbings, knifings, etc. at check points and in the old city that it just becomes something else to plan around. Currently the security situation feels relatively stable, and we're allowed to travel into specific parts of the West Bank with relative freedom... but that could change tomorrow without any notice.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is great, both at the Embassy and on the economy.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Pretty good, except for the occasional sand/dust storm coming in from Jordan.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Many, many people here seem to have allergies and a lot of allergy stuff that is OTC in the US seems to be prescription here, so bring your Benedryl and Claritin and the like. This is a GREAT place to be a Vegan or dairy or lactose intolerant, since Kashrut requires everything with dairy to be labeled, and Israelis have a lot of gluten-free everything around. More specific allergies, you'd want to be able to read Hebrew.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
This is a really, really stressful place to live and that can cause or exacerbate mental health issues. Be gentle with yourself, take your R&Rs, and get out of Jerusalem as much as needed -- even Tel Aviv or the North can be a welcome break (women in shorts! food on Shabbat! Mixed seating in synagogues! It all feels very radical after too long in Jerusalem...).
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot in the summers, and while it isn't actually cold in the winters the houses aren't insulated or sealed well so if it's 50 outside, it's likely to feel about 50 in your house. The spring and summer are lovely.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Elementary school is lovely. Middle and on is... problematic.
The USG supported school (JAIS) dropped their high school program and their middle school program is about 15 kids across 4 grades (5th, which is middle school despite 5th graders not being developmentally ready for switching classes, etc., 6th, 7th, and 8th). If your kid gets along with any of those 15 kids, it's a great environment with small classes and nurturing teachers. If your kid doesn't find his tribe, it's a lonely couple of years. JAIS wants to add 9th and 10th grade, but seems to be floundering with their pilot program. I would look very carefully at the curriculum and opportunities available before signing on for that, especially if your kid has specific college ambitions or you're not able to pay full-freight and want them to get scholarships aid since there's no extracurriculars or opportunities to develop beyond the curriculum at JAIS.
The other option is the Anglican School, which is NOT USG-supported which means there are no placed held for Embassy kids. Several of their classes are "Full" at various times, and they may apparently just chose not to admit your kid even if they're on the waiting list. This has been the cause of broken handshakes and curtailments. The Anglican School does not do pre-admittance, so if you have a high school kid there's no assurance that there will be a place for you when you arrive.
Several people in DC will suggest that the American School in Tel Aviv is an option for kids in Jerusalem. These people are deluded. It's a 2-ish hour drive in rush hour to Tel Aviv, and Evan Yehuda, where the school is located, is another 45 minutes north beyond that. The high speed train makes it possible, but your kid would have to leave Jerusalem at 6:07am, and return home at 5:30, without any ability to participate in after school activities or social life. Please don't depend on this as a back-up option without really considering the realities of travel time.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
The Anglican School has had a fairly robust special needs program, if you can get into their school. JAIS has lagged behind, but has now hired the inclusion coordinator for the Anglican School, so we hope that things are improving. They do have a learning support center, which can help with mild special needs and some referrals to OT professionals. There is definitely a push to diagnose needs that the school can provide (at a cost), sometimes without referring to qualified outside professionals. And Israeli culture is a bit conformist, so some parents feel a push to diagnose and treat things that are just kids being normal, if outside cultural norms here.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, lots of options.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Quite a few are available and they're actually inexpensive... but they're almost all in Hebrew. For English-language classes you'll have to look harder and pay more.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Technically, its HUGE. 1/5th of people living in Jerusalem are American Citizens, but the majority of them don't identify as expatriates and have made aliyah (immigrated) to this country and are focused on assimilation.
For people who are expats, it's been a really difficult and challenging couple of years of reduced funding and tough decisions and that shows up in morale in a big way. Many programs have closed, people have had to leave earlier than planned, relationships with local interlocutors have been strained, priorities have shifted. I think the worst has passed, but people are still trying to find the new normal and you'll see and feel that if you come here.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Lots of getting outdoors -- running, climbing, biking, hiking, etc. The cafe and restaurant scene here can be nice.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Singles and couples without kids seem to have the most fun here. Families do well, but the school situation can be challenging.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
A qualified yes. Israel over-all is fairly LGBT-friendly, and while Orthodox Jerusalem is not you're really not going to be interacting with those people anyway. Spouses can be fully accredited, and the mission is very supportive and diverse.
5. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
If you look even vaguely Arab, you're going to have a very different experience here and should be prepared for that. On the other hand, if you look very stereotypically Jewish, you'll have another completely different experience here, and should be prepared for that. I'd also say that if you're Jewish but not Orthodox or conservative you may find living here to be more challenging than you expect.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Constantly, in my opinion, and it's far to complex to get into here. Just know that it's real and it will effect you and your life the entire time you live here.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The people I've met and worked with are definitely a high-light. The locals here, including the local staff, are some of the warmest and most emotionally generous people I've ever known.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The Israeli National Parks are fantastic -- the pass is about $100 per year for a family and gives you free admission. The parks are open on Shabbat and all the holidays and are well maintained and interpreted, a lot like US parks. It's a great way to get out and blow off some steam, throughout the year. (Go to the ones with caves in the high summer, and save Masada and the hiking for the shoulder seasons...)
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are ceramics, olive-wood, religious articles and Palestinian Embroidery are all over the place.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
You will never forget it.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Just how difficult living and working here would be. In other places we've been, we were seen as apart from the conflicts that were happening in the country. Here, it's inescapable and seems to permeate everything that you do -- the clothes you wear, the water you drink, what you chose to do on Thursday night, all are making political statements. Living here is exhausting and vivid and challenging all the time and you need to be prepared for that.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Preconceived notions that you know anything about the conflicts going on here.
4. But don't forget your:
Warm clothes. Seriously, when you're used to 90+, 50 degrees in an unheated house is COLD.
