Kathmandu, Nepal Report of what it's like to live there - 05/19/14
Personal Experiences from Kathmandu, Nepal
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Cambridge, Budapest, Taipei, Tashkent, Hanoi.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington DC. Shortest flight is probably through Doha -- 4 hours to Doha, usually a layover of 6-8 hours, then 13 hours to DC.
3. How long have you lived here?
20 months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
U.S. embassy housing is mostly fairly large houses within 5km of the Embassy. Some are beautiful, some are a bit odd, par for the course for a third world country. Most other expats live in Patan or that side of town where the views are better and the air quality is slightly less bad.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Vegetables and fruits are good and available in season. Some are imported from China or India and so available off season but expensive. Dry goods are available at a few supermarkets (Saleways is one example) and about the same prices as U.S. Household supplies are mostly cheap Chinese or Indian .
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
High quality cooking oil, balsamic vinegar, a 3-year supply of liquid toiletries (you can get, but not your brand necessarily if you're picky about that), green chiles, green enchilada sauce and other Mexican food.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
KFC, Baskin Robbins and maybe one other. Don't come if you can't live without Starbucks or McDonald's. There are cheap good options for Indian or Nepali food for a few dollars a meal, all the way to relatively expensive European fare at Chez Caroline, and organic vegetarian food in Thamel.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitos are an issue during the monsoon.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Diplomatic Pouch. DPO is coming soon.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Very available and cheap, about US$100-170/month for a full time nanny, US$70-100 for full time gardener, US$150 for a driver.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes. The U.S. Embassy has a small gym, the American Club likewise. There are small private gyms in the city, including one that offers kick boxing for women. I think a couple of the larger hotels have gyms that have memberships as well. There are also several good yoga studios catering to expats.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Stick to 'safe' ATMs at the Embassy or American Club. If you don't have access to those, use Standard Chartered or another international bank, not the local banks.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
I get by fine with only a Namaste and danya bat (thank you). People do appreciate the effort and try hard to understand if you learn some Nepali though.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. I wouldn't advise coming.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are fine and cheap. Embassy recommends not to use buses and tuk tuks, which look crowded and unsafe anyway.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Bring a 4WD that you don't mind beating up. Some of the roads have recently been paved but quality is not high and potholes and sinkholes are common. Our road in an upscale neighborhood is currently being 'improved' and is a sea of mud when it rains and as bad as a jeep trail in the U.S. when dry.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Up to 4 MB - at least that's what advertised. Really, you get about 2.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Embassy provides phones for employees and spouses. Otherwise phones are easily available via NCell or other dealers. Service is dirt cheap and you can get your phone unlocked easily.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No. There are at least two good vets. No kennels that I know of.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
It's tough to get a job once you get here in the NGO world -- get one before you come if you can. The U.S. Embassy has 2 EPAP positions and several other EFM positions.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Many.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Current Ambassador wants DC-style dress. In public, for Westerners this is a very casual city, almost anything goes as long as it is modest e.g. shorts and tank tops are not appropriate, and neither are exercise tights when trekking, although many tourists seem to have a blind spot for this. Women here wear mostly saris or salwar and kemiz, although younger women increasingly favor jeans -- almost always with a long shirt that covers the behind though. There are a couple of big formal events every year, so bring a tux and a floor-length dress.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There are no streetlights, so it is very dark at night. Bring a good supply of small flashlights you can put in your bag. Even so, street crime doesn't seem to be a huge problem. In Thamel, keep your hands on your bag.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Major health issue is the air. There is good medical care for routine issues but anything remotely serious requires a medevac to Bangkok or Singapore.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Bad. A lot of people have trouble with it. That said, I don't find it as bad as the previous reviewer, and have not had a problem with upper respiratory issues except when my neighbors burn trash, and that's temporary. Neither has my husband or either of my kids. However, it is ranked the second worst in South Asia. I think it is mostly particulates of PM10 or larger, not the really deadly PM2.5 stuff that you find in New Delhi or Beijing, but that's just my theory, there is no air quality monitoring working in the city, so it's hard to say. I've seen pictures of Beijing and New Delhi that were far worse than anything you get here.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Climate is beautiful 9 months out of the year. The other 3 months are the monsoon, when it is hot, humid and muddy, with showers every day. Otherwise it is between 40 and 85F, sunny, clear to partly cloudy most days.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Most American expats send their kids to Lincoln School (lsnepal.com), which is a great option, although small (c. 260 kids preK through 12). There is also a French School and a British School.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Lincoln School has limited support for special-needs kids, admitted on a case-by-case basis.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, many. My son goes to Bina's Keti Keti Bari, a nice English-language medium 'Montessori' school. But there are other options too numerous to name here, especially if you want to go 'local.'
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes. LS has a great sports program and participates in SAISA tournaments and punches far above its weight for a small school.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large, diverse and interesting. Morale is high except for those who come expecting something else.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Have people over for dinner, go out for meals, hang out at the American Club (mostly families).
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I can only speak for families. There is not a lot to do for kids in Kathmandu outside of school unless they like rock climbing and mountain biking. Or trekking -- we've taken our 11-year old daughter on a number of treks up to 9 days and she loves it. LS has good after school options and a great sports program.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Can't really speak to this. I've never seen any gay PDA but also never heard of any targeted attacks. I'm sure there is a low profile community. It is common to see men holding hands in public but that does not mean they are gay.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
This is a traditional South Asian society, and women are second class citizens in general. There are serious problems with violence against women in domestic settings as well as economic discrimination.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Trekking and riding horses in upper Mustang, one of the more remote areas and on the edge of the Tibetan plateau.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Eating out is a good past-time in the city. Otherwise, outdoor activities are where it's at -- mountain biking, climbing and trekking primarily.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Tibetan carpets and other Buddhist items, felted and handmade paper crafts, Newari carved wood items.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Incredibly vibrant, interesting culture infused with a mix of Hindu and Buddhist traditions. Unbelievably nice and friendly people. Amazing outdoors activities, namely hiking and trekking in the stunning Himalayas.
10. Can you save money?
Yes, unless you spend it all trekking.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
How little the government is capable of doing.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Fear of dirt, high heel shoes, snow boots (it does not snow in Kathmandu!).
4. But don't forget your:
Trekking gear, camera, sense of humor.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Lonely Planet Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya (Travel Guide)
The Trekking Peaks of Nepal
Islands in the Snow: Climbing Nepal's trekking peaks (Footsteps on the Mountain travel diaries)
The Snow Leopard (Penguin Classics)
Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mt. Everest Disaster
6. Do you have any other comments?
Come! It's our favorite post so far. We love it, and hope you do too!
