Kathmandu, Nepal Report of what it's like to live there - 08/28/19
Personal Experiences from Kathmandu, Nepal
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
I have been with the Foreign Service for 6 years and the military before that. I have lived in various posts in Africa, the Middle East, Asia, Americas, and Europe.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
DC. It takes about 2 days, 51 hrs. The flight is grueling and extremely expensive, about $2,000. Actually, it's expensive to fly anywhere from Kathmandu.
3. How long have you lived here?
2 Years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
I am an FSO
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing ranges from big 5-bedroom houses with huge yards to townhouses, to apartments. It seems kind of random who gets what based on availability. There's a shortage of housing so we know a few people who were in a hotel for awhile when they first arrived. Most of the housing is within a 10-minute walk to the Embassy, but there are plenty of houses that are much farther than that. I knew someone who drove 1 hour each way to work. The traffic is horrendous so don't be fooled if some place is only a mile away from the Embassy, it might take you an hour to get there!
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
I was surprised at this one. Nepal is supposed to be a very cheap country, but the availability and quality of local food is terrible. Never eat the mangoes from India! They put some chemical on them that makes people sick. Also there is no regulation on what companies put in their packaged food, so you might be eating all kinds of chemicals and not be aware of it until you feel terrible. If you have any kind of allergy, just stick to meat, veggies, fruits and things off Amazon.
You can eat really cheap here if you want to eat Dal Bhatt (lentils and rice) every day, but if you want to eat an American diet, you'll be spending way more than you would in the US. For example, butter is $6/ half pound, beef is around $21/ pound, and cheese is $20-30/ pound. We bought a turkey from the commissary for thanksgiving and it was $100! Also, the only place you can find berries is in the commissary and they're $10/bag.
The availability of anything is highly seasonal and subject to change on a moments notice. When we first got here, the boarder with India was closed and you could hardly get anything. Even now you may want to make dinner on night, but only be able to find a few sad carrots, tomatoes, and onions in the store.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Everything. I had no idea that simple things like good flour, baking soda, and spices would be extremely hard to find. We ended up using all of our consumables allowance and purchase dry goods from Amazon monthly. Think ahead about entertaining, holidays, and birthdays, and ship everything to post. I shipped vanilla, sprinkles, cranberry sauce, cookie cutters, pumpkin, and a bunch of spices. You can find some things here if you really try, but the quality is lacking, they are expensive, and it's just plain easier to order it.
Also, if you have kids bring everything they like! Cereal, snacks, toys, books, baby wipes, diapers etc....
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are a few decent restaurants and there's Foodmandu delivery service. We don't eat out much because it's expensive if you want a good meal and 75% of the time ,one of us gets sick. Sanitation, or lack thereof is a huge problem in Nepal. People simply don't understand the concept of washing and the dangers of contaminating toilet water with food. I was totally blown away and I've lived in some rough places!
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
There are mosquitoes in monsoon. Med will tell you there's no Dengue in Kathmandu but I got it last year and never left the valley. Also, you can't eat any leafy greens (herbs, lettuce, chard, etc...) in monsoon because of an awful parasite that is not killed by washing. There are some cockroaches in some of the houses, a huge pigeon problem! I have dubbed our friend's place "the pigeon palace" because you can't even see the facade anymore because of all the pigeon poop.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO. If you use the Nepal mail, they will probably hold your mail for ransom (no joke) or it will go "missing". We've even had some things stolen out of the DPO, but it's pretty rare. DPO can take awhile though, at least 3 weeks, but we've had things take 4 months.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is extremely cheap, $200-300/month. Most Embassy folks employ a housekeeper, driver, gardener, and nanny if you have kids. I have found that the reliability and workk ethic is extremely lacking here. We went through 3 housekeepers before we found a good one. Sadly stealing is a very common practice here and we fired 2 people for stealing. It's also common to have house help do some strange things like use the same rag for the bathrooms as the kitchen, not listen when you ask them to do something, buy peanuts when they know your kid had a peanut allergy, etc... That said, if you do find someone good, it's wonderful. Make sure you have a contract that includes a 3-month trial period!
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Phora, the American club has a small but decent gym with treadmills and weights. At the Embassy there's a cardio room, and the Marine house has a weight room. There are no local facilities.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I don't recommend using cards because of the skimming. We use cash everywhere. There is an ATM at the American Club and the Embassy, and those are the only ones I use.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There is one English-speaking church in Patan but it's a 50-minute drive. No Jewish services anymore.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
If you're in the Kathmandu valley, some very basic Nepali is helpful but not necessary. Outside of the valley some Nepali is helpful especially if you are trekking.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes! I can't imagine living here with any kind of disability.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No. RSO says not to use the buses, rickshaws, or tuk tuks as there is a lot of theft and groping. Taxis are ok, but they're tiny! No seat belts, and they will try and overcharge you. Always establish the price before you get in and ask someone who's been here awhile what the prices should be. They'll try and play hardball, so just walk away and go to the next one.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Don't bring it! You will get dinged. It's extremely hard to bring a car to post, and it's a right hand drive country. Buy a car here.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
The internet is ok. We can stream maybe 60% of the time. The speeds they advertise are wildly inaccurate. Expect there to be problems with service. Either they won't set it up right, it will only service one room (bring wifi extenders), or it will be so slow you can't use it. Out internet was set up in a week, but it took another 3 months of fighting with Subisu (the company the Embassy recommends), to get it to actually work.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Everyone uses Ncell. I pay $10/month. It's ok, but if you have any problem with the service, it will be terrible trying to fix it.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No quarantined. The vets are ok. Just be aware that because of disease and sanitation issues, your pet may get sick or have skin issues if they go outside.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Most spouses work at the Embassy. Some telecommute, and other's have found jobs are NGO's. Local salaries are really low, $500/month or lower.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
I knew someone who volunteered but then the government made it illegal to do so. It's actually a lot harder than you would expect to donate your time here. There's a huge problem with fake non-profits. Most opportunities are European and American kids who pay to volunteer and live at the facility.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
The Embassy is business to business-casual depending on where you work. In public is modest (no shorts or tank tops) and extremely casual. Pajamas seem to be acceptable public attire. Only formal wear at the Marine Ball, but bring your dress or tux with you! Don't expect to find a skilled tailor here.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There have been some bombings (usually 5-6 per year), usually by the communist group. Women can be groped on the street or grabbed, this is not super common, but it does happen. Don't walk alone at night and steer clear of groups of young men. It's a decently safe post.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Everything other than a cold or parasite requires a medevac. Med is ok for most normal things but don't expect them to do much of anything. People have curtailed because of this. Many, many people develop skin issues because of the poor quality of our water, which is annoying if you're an adult, and extremely concerning if you're a child. People also have hormonal problems and lung problems because of the terrible air pollution.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The air here is ok in monsoon, but any other time, it's about the same or worse than New Deli, or Bejing back in the early 2000s. I underestimated how bad it could be. In the dry season, you can only see 100 feet ahead of you sometimes. Bring and wear a good mask, don't exercise outside, limit walking, and do your research! I would not have brought my kids here if I had known.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Don't come. Or resign yourself to never going out to eat. Nepali's don't understand allergies at all. I thought it would be ok if I explained my son's allergy in Nepali and had a card in Nepali, nope!
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Depression from the poor air quality. Previous poor morale is slowly changing due to new people coming in.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It's a temperate climate, and never gets below 30F or above 92F. The summers (June through August) are wet, and the rest of the time it's dry.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I've heard the Lincon School is excellent, but no personal experience.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are preschools and they are decent. The Montessori school is good. There are a ton of kids here and there's a play group (or several) for every age. Lot's of opportunities for social interaction.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
It's a mid-sized post. There are some expats here, but not many. Embassy morale is not great; Kathmandu is a hard place to live and work. There are some Embassy events. I was expecting more excursion type events like they do at other posts, but so far there have been few. This is definitely a house-centric, and make your own fun kind of place. If you want to do something, ask around, you may find someone who knows where to find it.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Mostly just get-togethers in our house. Card nights, BBQs etc...
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
There are some good things for singles. Nepali men always seem to want a date. For couples it's ok if you make some good friends; for families it's great except for the health issues.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes. Nepalis are becoming more excepting of the LGBT community. We had our first Pride Parade this year! You may face discrimination outside the valley where attitudes are more conservative.
5. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
It's fairly easy to make friends with locals if you really try. Everyone wants something it seems, (money, visas, etc...) so that really is wearing me down. If you are a black or white American you will get starred at a lot! Nepali's are very friendly.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Gender inequality is huge. I had to get used to men completely ignoring me and only speaking to my husband or the other men in the group. Don't shake the hand of the opposite gender unless they offer first. When I went to activate my cell phone, they asked where my husband was!
Among Nepali's, there are prejudices against those of a lower caste, and people are sometimes killed over marrying into the wrong caste. Also against the Tibetians, Tamang, and other tribes.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
We went to Pokara, and Chitiwan, and took the Everest flight. All amazing and totally worth it! Just stay in the nicest place you can afford, ask for a mattress topper, and whatever you do, don't drive, fly. Driving through the mountains is seriously a suicide attempt.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Buy veggies at Le Serpa market, visit the burning grounds, get out of the valley as often as possible. There's also some nice hotels that are BnB's close by: Chandra Ban resort and Nagakoit.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Yes and no. It's hard to find good quality items, and when you do, they are very expensive. I have bought some carvings, thangkas, tibetian furniture, and silver jewlery.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
If you like trekking, and have have the money to do it ($2000 for a 1-2 week trek), it's completely worth it and amazing. Just expect to really rough it, and eat Dal Bhatt mostly.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
How horribly dirty it is, how expensive trekking is, how bad the air is, people will steal and swindle you every chance they can, and how you should bring absolutely everything you will need.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Need to get things done, perfection, and cleanliness
4. But don't forget your:
Patience! hard stomach, sense of humor.
5. Do you have any other comments?
If you have a great sense of humor and adventure, you can make the most of this post. Throw all of your expectations to the wind. Even though some people enjoy their time here, I have never met anyone who wasn't super excited to leave.
