Kathmandu, Nepal Report of what it's like to live there - 06/30/24
Personal Experiences from Kathmandu, Nepal
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
My home is in the DC area. Travel to post involves a drive of a few hours to the airport then approximately between 25-30 hours of flight time. It's difficult to get to Nepal from home, so we never went back during our tour.
3. What years did you live here?
2022-2024
4. How long have you lived here?
Two years
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
We live in a standalone home in a residential neighborhood. Most homes (though not ours) are on compounds and are a mix of townhouses, apartments and standard single-family homes. Homes are more spacious than your standard home in the US. Most homes are within two miles of the embassy. Many folks walk, but it is pretty standard to drive and commute times can vary even for this short distance as traffic can be quite bad in the city.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries and household supplies are much cheaper than back home, but (with the exception of chicken and fresh fruits and vegetables) the quality is much lower than what you would find in the US. There are some imported items in standard grocery stores, but it seems even the US brand names are actually Asian versions of those brands and not quite what you would expect. For anything non-perishable where you care about quality, Amazon is relatively quick and dependable.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
I wish we had shipped more paper products (toilet paper, paper towels, napkins), but in fairness we largely adapted to the Nepali versions of things while we awaited our consumables. Many folks ship large quantities of spices, cleaning products and liquor.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There is a food delivery app called Foodmandu that we've used (as do many expats), which is similar to Uber Eats. Time for delivery can vary greatly. Another app, Pathao, was originally for taxis but now also does food delivery. We've found that one good as well.
There are a variety of restaurants in Kathmandu, but most focus on Nepali cuisine. It is not uncommon for a restaurant to open with an interesting menu and then pivot to Nepali cuisine after a few months. It is also not uncommon for restaurants to close within months of opening. We learned not to fall in love with any restaurant as they either had drastic menu changes or closed down completely after we raved about them to friends.
Regarding any Western food offerings, we've found restaurants typically try to recreate Western dishes using local ingredients, but with no apparent knowledge of how the food is supposed to taste. The meals aren't necessarily bad, but don't order spaghetti and meatballs thinking you know what it will taste like. You will not and you will be disappointed. There are some legitimate Western restaurants in the tourist areas but they are very pricey (though they are also less likely to abruptly shut down).
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Sooooo many ants! Literally everywhere in the summer. They are of varying sizes, and some bite. During the monsoons the mosquitos are known to carry dengue, so bring your bug spray.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We are lucky to be able to use DPO. It is quick and reliable. I've heard there is such a thing as local mail, but it sounds like it can take forever and is not particularly reliable. DHL stops are common throughout the city, but I've never had occasion to use them.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is extremely affordable, on the order of $300-$350 per month for full time help. Most expats have a driver and housekeeper. Some also employ a full-time nanny, which I understand may be more expensive, but I can't verify as we don't have children in Nepal.
3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
Nepal is a very safe country from a crime perspective. We've travelled extensively throughout the country and have never felt that we were in danger. Crimes of opportunity, of course, happen. These are typically limited to the tourist areas such as Thamel. Just use common sense, and there shouldn't be any issues.
There are some parks scattered throughout the city, but for hiking or biking the real trick to get out of the city. Shivapuri National Park and Nagarkot (both on the outskirts of Kathmandu) offer wonderful hiking, biking and running opportunities. The trails will not necessarily be as well marked as a typical US park, so it is prudent to bring someone who has done the trails before or hire a guide. Paths also can be very narrow and uneven. Good balance is essential for some of the less travelled paths. Paths can also be washed out by ice melt or blocked by rockslides.
4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The embassy and American Club both have gyms, but the one at the embassy is quite small. The one at the embassy is free for mission employees and the one at the American Club is included with your membership fee. There are also some gyms scattered throughout Kathmandu, but we've never used them.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Cash is used 90% of the time. Some shops in the tourist areas now take credit cards, but we use them rarely and always with trepidation.
6. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I've heard these exist, but have never attended.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
If you plan to stay in tourist and expat areas, you really don't need any. If you want to go off the beaten path, it's good to have at least some basic Nepali (and you really should get out there - it's a beautiful country!) There also seem to be three prices in Nepal: Nepali, expat and tourist. If you go into a store with some Nepali, you're likely to get the expat price (which is considerably cheaper than the tourist price). We've also found a little Nepali very helpful with cab drivers, who have varying levels of English proficiency.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
The country would be very difficult for someone with physical disabilities. Roads, sidewalks and buildings are not designed with the disabled in mind, Streets and sidewalks (when they exist) are often narrow and uneven. Many buildings do not have elevators.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
I've heard the buses are safe, but I wouldn't take them as they are always extremely crowded and, from the number of broken-down buses I have seen, don't seem particularly reliable. Taxis are easy to get in the expat areas, though you have to negotiate the price which can be annoying. In and around Kathmandu you can use Pathao, a ride hailing app, which always has decent prices.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
Asian makes are widely used and I would recommend something with high clearance, particularly if you plan on going outside of the city. If you will be driving around the country, 4-wheel drive is essential to navigate washed-out, steep and/or unpaved dirt roads.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Available and cheap, but not reliable. If you need consistent internet access you should get two providers. Most people who telework have two providers to ensure one is always working. Even for two, your annual cost will be $500 or less for a year.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
If you can, use Google Fi. For local service, NCell is pretty reliable in the city. Rural areas use Nepal Telecom. NCell phones will not work on the Nepal Telecom network and vice versa.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
There are a couple of very good vets that cater to expats and the prices are much lower than in the US. Pet supplies are not widely available in Nepal, particularly for cats, and what is available is lower quality than the US. We use Chewy to get our pet supplies. There is no quarantine on arrival. Do beware of letting pets roam free as there are a lot of street dogs in Nepal and it is a high rabies country.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Most expat spouses work at the Embassy and a handful telework or work in the international school system. I am not aware of anyone that works on the economy, likely because of both the language barrier and low Nepali wages.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Volunteering can be complicated, but I have heard of people volunteering with animal rescue groups.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Nepal is a conservative country. As a woman, I try to have my knees and shoulders covered when out and about. Work dress ranges from business to business casual, depending on the role. Formal dress is not a requirement.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
This is a very safe country. Just use common sense, and you'll be fine. We walk most places and have done so from very early in the morning to very late at night and always felt safer in Nepal than any city in the US.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical standards in Nepal have not caught up with the Western standards There is one hospital used by expats and tourists that is ok, but I wouldn't use it for anything more than basic medical tests. Medical evacuation is required for anything more complicated than, say, stitches.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
I'm not going to sugar coat it, the air quality in the winters is bad and getting worse. Over this past winter I developed a persistent cough that would magically go away anytime I was outside of Nepal. While this is a problem that used to be limited just to the Kathmandu Valley, the pollution is now present in Pokhara and seems to be spreading to other cities as well. This would be a very bad post for anyone with respiratory issues, and respiratory issues may even develop while at Post for people who never had problems before.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Nepalis are not very familiar with allergies and you can never be quite sure what is in the food you order. If someone in our family had an allergy, I would probably stay away from eating out entirely.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
No.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It is warm and humid in the summer and dry and mild in the winters. Outside of the mountain regions, I've never felt the need for a coat (though I'm originally from the Northeast US, so that's a factor). We do not get snow in the valley, and it will typically rain only a few hours a day during the monsoons.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I know of a few international schools in Kathmandu, but do not have children at post so can't speak to them.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
It's in the hundreds and I think morale is typically good. We don't tend to frequent the expat spots, so I can't speak to this in depth.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Hiking and trekking are the most common activities in Nepal and are amazing. We've met many Nepalis and foreign expats through these groups. The American Club has a mix of embassy personnel, personnel from other missions and locals and hosts lots of events and classes.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
As someone here with just my spouse, I'd say it's good for couples if you like nature activities. There are lots of opportunities to get out of the city and see the national parks or go on multi-day hikes and treks. We've also spent some time in Thamel (the tourist hub) checking out bars and restaurants. There are many families at Post and it seems to be family friendly, but I can't speak from experience on that.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
Locals are very friendly, but it can be complicated to make local friends if you work at the US mission. Nepali social relationships can be transactional, and thus local friends may start looking for favors you cannot or should not give. For that reason, we have largely avoided making friends outside of the embassy community.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I am aware of a large LGBT expat community, but would not feel comfortable opining beyond that.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There is significant gender bias that can affect expats women, particularly outside the city. Though it never rises to the level of being unsafe, many women (myself included) have experienced locals unwilling to engage with them directly when their husbands are present or being ignored in favor of males in a group. This is less prevalent in the city, but still occurs. I've also heard of racism being directed to Asians throughout the city. It seems to be worse if you appear to be of South Asian descent and, particularly, appear to be from a "low caste".
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Absolutely the nature! We've enjoyed our time visiting multiple national parks and trekking the different ranges of Nepal. You should take the opportunity to get out and see the diversity of the people, animals and landscapes of Nepal - it's a truly beautiful and diverse country. Would particularly recommend Bardia National Park, the Khopre Ridge and searching for red pandas in Eastern Nepal.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
To see monkeys, skip Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple) because the monkeys are mean and like to steal your boba tea. Go to the Bhandarkal Jungle (Monkey Jungle) instead - it's close-by, has a very diverse monkey population, and because there are fewer tourists you can just watch the monkeys in their natural habitat. Entry is also free.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
If you're into native/cultural arts and furniture, there is plenty to be had in Nepal. You can also get very affordable tailored clothes.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
You can live here very inexpensively, if you choose to.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Nepalis have no sense of time. A two-month project will take six months, a noon lunch will probably happen at 1:30. Flights are not considered delayed until they are delayed more than one hour. As I sit here, a local told me she was coming by my house at eleven, which she then moved to one, and it's now 1:15 with no sign of her. For someone who is punctual, this can be infuriating.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, but I'd leave my watch at home.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expectations on every level.
4. But don't forget your:
Open mindedness. This is a great country and you have a wonderful time once you just accept Nepal for what it is. "Nepal things" will happen, and once you make your peace with that you will have an amazing journey ahead of you.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
14 Peaks, World's Most Dangerous Roads Season 1, Episode 2, and the 1980's movie The Golden Child has about 20 minutes that take place in Nepal that will give you a good introduction to the country and which you will appreciate even more after you live here.
