Abuja, Nigeria Report of what it's like to live there - 08/21/14
Personal Experiences from Abuja, Nigeria
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
4th and final posting after Kinshasa, Lima, and Montevideo.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Southwestern U.S. Flights through Paris or Frankfurt and through various U.S. airports. We always figure on at least 24 hours travel if all things go well.
3. How long have you lived here?
A disclaimer first - I usually do a post report prior to leaving post, but am submitting this one after 4 months of living here. From what I have seen and learned, I don't expect many things to change by the time we leave. If they change enough to warrant a new report, I will submit one on departure.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Trailing spouse of Embassy employee.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Everything is on a compound. Because of several issues (security, access, landlord issues) 10 compounds have been closed and a new compound, named Route 66 with 66 units on compound - 3 bed apartment, 4-5 bed townhouses - has been opened. Some of the existing units are quite nice, considering they are not of the best construction or location. New compound - Route 66 is located next door to the American International School, has stand-alone servants quarters, basketball and tennis courts, weight room, two swimming pools (one large and one small), a cafe open on weekends for pizza, burger, drinks. But, Route 66 is a work in progress, lots of minor and some major issues need to be addressed and fixed. General thought is that at the end of the lease, all the problems will be fixed and the landlord will have a great place to rent out. Commute times vary from 5 minutes to 20 minutes when there is traffic. No one walks.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Yes and pricey. Pretty much anything you want can be found here. There are several stores in the city. But, you will pay for it. This is the reason for the allowances given to the Mission employees.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Would have doubled the amount of stuff we shipped as our consumable allowance.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
No fast foods. A Johnny Rockets has opened up and is getting some business. But, it is very expensive. But, everything is expensive compared to the States.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Ants, termites, skeeters.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Pouch and it is slow and restrictive.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Readily and afforded. Many people will share domestic help. But, as always - check out the help, ask around, get references.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, but don't know what the costs would be.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Don't! This is Nigeria, home of the 419 scams.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes. Nigeria is English speaking. The Holy See has weekly services.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Nigeria is an English speaking country. But, there are several local languages and knowing some of them will help.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes they would. For all the claims of Abuja being a modern city, it is not. It would be a difficult place to get around. It can be done, but not with ease.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Nope - don't!
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Bring all your own parts, a car you don't mind getting beat up, something to handle the crap roads here. A 4WD is not necessary, but something with clearance and the ability to take a beating is nice. Traffic is awful, drivers are among the worst I have seen. Be prepared for some very aggressive driving! No respect for traffic laws, no common sense, no effective police presence(other than to collect a bribe), accidents are common-place, roads in terrible condition. When it rains - WATCH OUT! Every car that doesn't have working windshield wipers will pull under an overpass to wait out the storm. Or just to the side of the road. In doing so, the number of them there will stop or really hinder the flow of traffic.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes and costly. Several providers and not one of them is any better than the other. Ask around and see what works best for your living area.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Buy a cheap unlocked phone and buy a local SIM card. Most folks have two phones, one each with a different carrier. So when one serve is out, you have another one to use. Employees will get a phone and a radio issued by Mission.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Don't know really. Usually the only people I see with pets are the expats, and not many of them. Bear in mind, that there is not a lot of open space where pets are accepted. Housing compounds have very little or no yards. You may very well be living in an apartment.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
As in any third world location, there are several NGO that will happily take your time, money and efforts. Some people work in the local church, local school to teach English.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business professional at work and respectful in public.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
See above - this is a high threat post. All USG housing are located in a compound with 24/7 security, panic rooms, alarm systems, local Police outside the gates, rapid response forces, roving patrols. Anyone who can afford it, lives in a secure compound or area. This ought to be a clue - if the Chief of Police has a SWAT team sitting outside his gate 24/7, with armored vehicles - that ought to tell you something. Anyone of importance, either ego-driven or status, travels in convey with armed security.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Ebola, malaria, etc. Medical care is available at the Embassy.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Fair - lots of locals burning something, a lot of vehicles in poor condition spewing smoke - etc. When there is a wind or storm, the air gets moved around. Have been warned by many about the dry time of the year and the dust problems. See reports that have bee already posted.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Warm to hot /rainy and hot/dry.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
American International School is one I am aware and have heard mixed reviews.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Same as above. There seems to be quite a few of them. Can't speak to cost.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Quite large. If they are not here as part of the diplomatic community, they are here for the oil business. Moral varies - depends on the person and the situation. Most are here because it is a good opportunity for something. Money, job, career etc. Some are counting the days until the next trip for vacation somewhere else. Or counting the days until they leave for good.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Entering at home, BBQ, dinners out. One golf course in the city and it gets a lot of use.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
All. Everyone has their niche. Singles can have quite the night life, if they choose. Families tend to get together often.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Nigeria is a country of 50% Muslim and 50% Christian. I know several gay/lesbian expats, but they are very discreet about it.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes, Read up on Boko Haram. Even amongst themselves, there is a big divide between the 'have's' and the 'have-not's'. There is a lot of tribal/feudal prejudices.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Abuja is not a tourism location, there really anything here worth going out of the way for. If you live here, you will try out the local stuff. But, to travel here for it - not likely.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are some local stuff - carvings, local artists for paintings.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
None. Abuja is a new city, built to be the capital city of Nigeria. The process started some time ago and will be years before it is complete. You can't travel outside the city without Embassy RSO permission and you will travel in convoy with local Police in the vehicle. Nigeria is a high threat post, anyone posted here has to attend the FACT thru FSI. Given the current situation with Boko Haram and ebola, there are several State Department issued travel warning. On top of that, there are not a lot of places to go for any reason. Some people will fly to Lagos for a weekend, just to see something different. Travel is expensive, not a lot of local art/crafts - so you can save money. If you don't spend it all on comfort shopping online.
10. Can you save money?
Yes, not much else to do. Unless you travel a lot.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Nothing really, being our second African posting - we were pretty prepared for it.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No. But, this will be the last posting and for all it, it will be a good career end posting for the Employee. Lots of people here because they were directed to (first posting), want to get the 'goody' points for the next bid, some are addicted to the danger pay, or living a life supported by a house full of help.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Most of your winter stuff, ideas of this being "Out of Africa", desire to travel the countryside or wander the city streets exploring.
4. But don't forget your:
Driving skills, ability to not go postal, tons of patience.
5. Do you have any other comments?
As said earlier, I will re-visit this when departing post and make edits.
