Johannesburg, South Africa Report of what it's like to live there - 04/10/17
Personal Experiences from Johannesburg, South Africa
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Two other cities in Africa, three in Latin America.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
It's 17-18 hours by plane to Atlanta (direct) or Washington, DC (plane stops for an hour in Dakar).
3. How long have you lived here?
8 months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Work at the US consulate.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
We have a large house in a gated housing complex, about 2 km from the Consulate. If there's no traffic, the commute is less than 10 minutes. Coming home in the afternoon it often takes almost 30 minutes.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can get everything in South Africa! We do ship in special products for baking, like baking chocolate and brown sugar, because we prefer US products for that, as well as some favorites for the kids, but generally you can get whatever you need here.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
More of my favorite brand of US peanut butter, since you can't ship peanut butter in the pouch. But it's not a crisis - there are a variety of peanut butter options here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
The restaurant scene in Joburg is large and thriving. There are great options for all kinds of food, and it's all delicious. You can get Chinese, fast food, pizza, etc, by delivery, and Uber Eats has recently started up (although I haven't used it).
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
The lizards in our house seem to keep the occasional bug population down!
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Haven't used the local post office, as we use the pouch via the consulate. Courier mail (e.g. DHL) is also available.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Most people have at least a part time housekeeper. Household help is available and pretty inexpensive - live-in, full time housekeeper is probably R4,000-5,000. Nannies and gardeners are also available.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Full access to Virgin Active gym is about R500/month, so not expensive. There are lots of options and gyms are in good locations.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards and ATMs are both widely available. South African vendors will bring the credit card machine to you to swipe to help prevent fraud. We try to only use ATMs in very safe locations due to theft/scams at ATMs being very common.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I'm not sure, but I suspect that the full range of services is available in Christian, Jewish, and Muslim faiths, maybe others, too.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English is widely spoken, no need for another language. Local and foreign language tutors are available.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Not too much trouble - there are generally accommodations.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
The Gautrain is safe, other public transportation is not recommended. We use Uber a lot throughout South Africa, and it's safe and convenient.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
You must have right-hand drive, and there are strict import requirements. It's easiest to buy a car here, and there's a thriving used car market outside of the expatriate community, so you're sure to find what you want. You don't need a 4x4, although many people have one for their adventures in southern Africa.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Broadband is readily available, and while more expensive than in the US, it's not ridiculous. They are just installing fiber - I understand the transition to fiber can be painful, but it works well once installed. Go for a non-Telkom provider to get better prices and good service. If you're with the Consulate, ask for an internet dongle on arrival and/or get a 4G modem from Cell C and load it up so you have internet right away - otherwise you'll find yourself waiting a week or two to get set up at home.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
We use Vodacom for local service. We initially wanted a contract, but the documentation with the company was so painful that we ended up getting pay as you go, and it's fine. Sometimes the online payment doesn't work well (site issues), so we pay at our local grocery store to reload. It's worked out way cheaper than a contract and service is good.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
We don't have a pet, but vets seems to be quite good. There are no quarantine requirements, but South Africa requires animals to be flown in as cargo, which can be a hassle - and costly.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Most spouses who work do so in the consulate. Working on the local economy is not easy, I understand, due to regulations and permits.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
There are volunteer opportunities available with a lot of NGOs: schools, hospitals, etc.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Standard business dress (coat/tie for men, variety of business options for women) is common at work. Many people do a business casual Friday. This is a big, cosmopolitan city, so there are occasions for formal dress and nice going out clothes. Also bring clothes for hiking and adventuring!
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Crime is a concern. Walking around town is generally not recommended, and robberies/carjacking are relatively common. House alarms are a must as burglary is also a regular problem.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
This is a medical evacuation destination, as medical care is excellent. Many expat women have babies locally, people have minor or emergency surgery, get follow-up care, etc. The only health concern is some altitude (about 5-6000 ft) and very dry air.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality is like in any large US city - some pollution due to traffic, very dry air, can be dusty in spring (September-November).
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
No particular concerns. Allergens are clearly labeled in local food products.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Sunny all year round. Winters have cold nights but generally mild days. Summers can be hot but not humid. Even during rainy season (November-March), it's not generally humid, as rain often passes quickly.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are American and French schools used by consulate staff - no personal experience with either.
2. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
There are lots of activities available - sports, dance, art, language, theater, etc. All of these available on the local economy, not through schools, which may have other offerings.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large - Joburg has a ton of expats for business, international development, diplomats, etc. Morale is typically good, as it's a great place to live.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
South Africans are very friendly. We socialize with other expats, with our neighbors, with friends met thrugh the kids' activities, via adult sports activities, etc. Follow your interests and you'll easily find friends.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Good for everyone - the social scene is large and varied, and there is a lot to do here.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes, LGBT is not an issue here, and LGBT rights are well protected.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Race in general is still a major factor in South African society, still dealing with the unfortunate legacy of apartheid. I know expat people of color who have experienced racism on a daily basis - being ignored by service staff, etc.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Travel! There is so much to see and do in southern Africa, and Johannesburg is the best jumping off point. Safaris, beach trips, hiking, 4x4 driving, etc - it's all here.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Don't forget about Lesotho! You can snow ski there in winter, and the hiking in the Drakensberg is spectacular. The drive to Semonkong is long, but the Maletsunyane Falls and the hiking in that area is worth it. And the whole country is VERY different from South Africa, despite the proximity.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Yes - lots of jewelry and arts of all kinds are readily available here to buy.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Joburg has it all - proximity to more rural adventure while living in a large city that has everything you could possibly need. The beach is only 6 hours away by car or a short flight, safari is less than 2 hours away, a full service spa is right up the road....
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Without a doubt!
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Dehumidifier, heavy winter clothes.
3. But don't forget your:
Sunhat and sunblock, sense of adventure, road map for travel, slippers for cold floors in the winter.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
"Born a Crime" by Trevor Noah.
