Pretoria, South Africa Report of what it's like to live there - 02/28/09
Personal Experiences from Pretoria, South Africa
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This is my fourth overseas posting.
2. How long have you lived here?
3 years, 2006 to 2009.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Posted with the U.S. Embassy.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
There is now a direct flight from Dulles to Johannesburg at about 15 hours. There is also a direct flight from Atlanta, which is a little longer. Flights to and from Europe take about 10 to 12 hours.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
The Embassy is moving people onto compounds with 24-hour guards and will probably get rid of most of the stand alone houses in the housing pool. Unfortunately, the compounds often do not have very big yards, play areas for kids or swimming pools. Some of the compounds have newly built homes and tend to have a number of U.S. Embassy families living on the same compound.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can get most things here that are similar to items for sale in the States, but there are no Cheerios! All kinds of meat (chicken, lamb, beef, pork, ostrich) and especially fruits and veg are available and cheaper than the States. Prices are per kilo, so sometimes people don't realize that they are paying less--for example, US$8 for 2.2 pounds of lamb! Laundry soap is a bit harsh on the clothes. Cleaning products are generally good but bring your own ziploc bags and plastic wrap. There is an adequate supply of shampoos, soaps, toothpaste for sale. Pick N Pay is cheaper than Woolworths, but Woolworths carries a lot of good quality pre-packaged appetizers, pasta salads, and ready made meats and meals that are still cheaper than the States.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Laundry soap, good coffee, Mexican foods (salsa, tortilla chips, black beans, etc.) but you can order most of these through Amazon or Netgrocer.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Everything fast food is available (McDonald's, KFC, Steers, Nandos, pizza places).The cost is about the same or a little cheaper than the States.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Pretoria is free of malaria. Travelers to certain parts of Kwazulu Natal (where Kruger National Park is located) should take anti-malarials.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
The Embassy has a pouch system to get mail. You can send letter sized mail and merchandise received through the pouch for returns. If you must send a box, the South African system will get it there but it will cost you a lot of money and may be pilfered.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Day maids go for about 120 Rand a day (US$12) while live-ins go for anywhere between 1500 and 2000 Rand a month (US$150 to 200).The Embassy folks tend to over pay their maids and any maid you consider hiring will always tell you they want over 2000 Rand a month.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is a Virgin Active Gym that is frequented by Embassy folks.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I've never had a problem with fraud when using a credit card or an ATM, however, there are loads of ATM scams so use the one at the Embassy or inside a bank.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are people of all religious backgrounds here.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
There are several newspapers and satellite TV programming is available. Without satellite (about 80 USD per month plus equipment costs and installation), there are only 4 channels available. Keep in mind you need a PAL TV.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None, English is spoken everywhere. It is nice to pick up some of the local language though as it is appreciated.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
There are wheel chair ramps and elevators in most malls and bigger hotels but there are often spotty sidewalks. You do see disabled people in wheelchairs but they likely only go places where they know are facilities. Some hotels have disabled friendly rooms, especially in Cape Town.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
The Gautrain is not safe and the local taxis (mini buses) are not safe either. There are very few private taxis in Pretoria and if you call, they may come in an hour or not at all.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Driving is on the left so importing a left hand drive vehicle is not advisable and can be dangerous. Plus, now you must ship out any imported left hand drive vehicles on leaving. Buying a car here is expensive but there is no way around it. A 4x4 is not essential but it might make your life easier if you want to do self-drive safari or explore the more rugged areas of South Africa. There are major car dealers (Toyota, BMW, Volvo, Land Rover, etc.) and repair shops in Pretoria.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
There is ADSL available but the cost is high compared to the U.S. as you pick a plan depending on how many gigs you will use a month. There are constant improvements and new start-ups offering better service than the telephone company but ultimately, the telephone company owns all the ADSL lines in the country and it can take upwards of 20 days to get your service hooked up.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Everyone has a cell phone here and it is essential for safety. Most employees get their dependents pre-paid cell phones which run anywhere from US$20 on up. Embassy employees are issued cell phones.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Yes. There are numerous reports of pets being in quarantine for a month or more and the vet check is extensive. We know some people whose pets were not admitted to the country after arriving.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There are vets and kennels here. Some people prefer to ship their own dog food though.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not really but there is a coordinator for this at the Embassy. The wages are very low compared to the States.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Same as a big city in the U.S. Men and women wear suits to work. In non-work settings, it is very casual and similar to dress in the States.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Moderate. During the winter, which is the dry season, there can be a lot of dust. There are a lot of people with allergies here as the flora is totally different from the U.S. and there are flowers and trees everywhere.
2. What immunizations are required each year?
Typical DOS immunizations.
3. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Crime is very real here. There is everything from crimes of opportunity to home invasions that result in murders and rapes. You must always be aware of your surroundings and take precautions on entering and leaving your home or while about town. Homes are equipped with alarm systems linked to local security companies, barred windows, electric fences and safe havens. If you believe you can't function in this type of high crime environment or are especially fearful of becoming a victim of crime, this is not the place for you.
4. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The quality of medical care is much better than in the States. I had surgery here and the doctors gave you quality time and are genuinely concerned. The hospitals are good and the staff is also professional. The price tag for anything medical is much cheaper than the States as well.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The weather here is great!Winter is typically April through mid-October with the weather being dry and cooler (mid 40's at night is the coldest it ever seems to get with daytime highs in the 60's and 70's). Summer is the wet season with sometimes torrential rains in the afternoons but usually very beautiful blue skies and good, warm weather during the day and even warm at night (daytime highs in the 80's and 90's).
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I know that there are special needs kids in the Embassy community but I cannot comment on the quality of education they receive. There are enough Afrikaaners with special needs kids here that I am sure there are teachers and tutors qualified to teach.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
I have a pre-schooler in the Rainbow Montessori. The school has two campuses and several teachers and assistants. There are pre-schools in most neighborhoods.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
There are afterschool programs affiliated with the schools.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge. There are loads of embassies, NGOs, and others associated with business.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There are ample chances to attend a braai. People go out to restaurants, entertain at home, go to the movies. There are many similarities with life in the States.
3. Morale among expats:
A lot of people in the Embassy are discouraged by the crime and so some can't wait to leave. Others try to enjoy their time here and take advantage of the travel opportunities and so morale among those people is higher.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Pretoria is really quite small with only a handful of good restaurants and some dance clubs/bars for singles or couples. If you are looking for entertainment and good restaurants, go to Johannesburg. South Africa offers a lot of travel opportunities (hiking, camping, safari, city touring) that make up for city life in Pretoria.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
There are some gay bars in Pretoria and Jo'burg and you often see openly gay people here, both male and female.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There can't be a bigger issue than race here. If you live in Pretoria, you will see some nasty treatment on the part of the Afrikaners toward the Africans. In return and probably due to Apartheid, there are a lot of Africans who are suspicious of whites. Cape Town is a much more tolerant place where you will see far more interracial couples.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Safaris are a must in South Africa. There are self-drive safari opportunities close to Pretoria. There are markets on the weekends in and around Pretoria and also plenty of malls and movies theaters. There are ample hiking opportunities and a lot of camp grounds. There are zoos and also museums and some art galleries. If you like sports, rugby, cricket and soccer games abound. Braais (BBQs) are a national past time.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Springbok carpaccio and ostrich fillet, Ndebele dolls and beadwork, wood or metal giraffes. Males:a two-toned button down shirt you see the Afrikaners wearing or a Madiba shirt.
9. Can you save money?
Yes and no. If you do not travel, you will save money but you will be a fool for not doing so!
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Definitely!! This two or three years of your life should be an adventure and there's plenty of it in South Africa.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
initial feelings that South Africa is like the States, this is still Africa!
3. But don't forget your:
Sun block, camping gear, good digital camera, and good coffee.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The Covenant, Michener; Anything by J.M. Coetzee
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The Covenant, Michener; Anything by J.M. Coetzee
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Blood Diamond, The Power of One, Tsotsi, Sarafina
7. Do you have any other comments?
There is so much to do here and the country is so diverse that there are endless travel options. The complaints about crime should not overshadow your experience in South Africa.
