Pretoria, South Africa Report of what it's like to live there - 08/01/09
Personal Experiences from Pretoria, South Africa
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This is not my first expat experience. Our family has also lived in Paris as diplomats, and I have lived in France, Ecuador and Mexico before marrying.
2. How long have you lived here?
July 2007 to present.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Spouse of State Department employee.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
There are direct flights from several US cities to Johannesburg (the nearest airport). There are also several connecting flights through several European cities.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
We have a lovely old single-family home with a large yard and swimming pool. There are several different neighborhoods where embassy people are housed and they are all nice. The embassy has been trying to bring newcomers into cluster/compound houses for security reasons and will move people in single-family units if they request and there is availability. Architecture is unique here and the older houses have personality. Newer houses have the benefit of modern comforts (heated floors, fancy kitchens,etc), but will have smaller yards and there have been numerous complaints about shoddy building materials. Most commutes are about 15-30 minutes. Pretoria is an easy city to get around in; traffic is never terrible unless you are traveling from Pretoria to Johannesburg or vice versa.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There are many fruit and vegetable markets around town that I use and find great produce at great prices. Grocery stores are modern and the prices are less than what you'd pay in the States. There are a few 'super' stores that sell a bit of everything (like our WalMarts).
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Children's toys -the quality is not great here and prices are too high) and shoes (again, problem with quality vs. price).Electronics and books are much more expensive here than in the States.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
McDonald's and KFC are all around. There are also local fast-food places for pizza, burgers, etc. Many restaurants cater to kids and have indoor/outdoor playgrounds where kids play while parents eat and relax. Pretoria is also coming around with great up-scale restaurants. You can find just about everything and the prices are quite reasonable. We've been very pleased with restaurants here.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Insects? I've been wondering where they are hiding. The houses don't have screens and now I know why - you can leave your windows open all day and you won't have any unwanted visitors. That being said, there is a slight increase in flies and bees in the warmest month. Our house also has its share of grasshoppers, but considering the large yard and abundance of fauna surrounding us, the insects are minimal.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We use the embassy pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
There is an overabundance of 'unskilled' labor looking for housekeeper/gardener work. Be careful - the South African work ethic is not great and there have been many complaints about attitudes, trust, etc. We have had great luck with our housekeeper (we have a live-in) and not such great luck with gardeners. There is always a list of domestic workers with experience among embassy families circulating in the CLO office.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, there are several top-notch gyms. And there are also at least two nature reserves within the city where you can hike or mountain bike any day of the week - and it is safe.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
There are too many local languages to count, but luckily English is one of them and I've yet to meet anyone here that doesn't speak enough of it to at least communicate. Most domestic workers can speak about 4-6 languages; it's pretty impressive actually. I've tried several times to learn one of the many 'black' languages and it's nearly impossible to find classes with enough enrollment. I always thought it would be useful and interesting from a cultural perspective, but not, it's not at all necessary.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Not safe.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
We have a little car for zipping around the city and a larger SUV for those weekend get-aways. Roads here are fantastic and you really don't need an SUV unless you like off-road travel; even so, you could always rent an SUV for that special get-away. This is a great country for road trips, so get something that is comfortable and reliable.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Great vets and kennels. Many, many people have dogs; cats are not as common but they are certainly around. South Africans are proud of their connection with animals and nature, and this not only reflects in their safari and tourism industry, but in their love of pets, too.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Wages are very low, but there are opportunities. The embassy has a SNAP program here.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Fairly casual. Local men commonly wear shorts (very short sometimes!) and sandals. Women tend to put a bit more effort into their looks.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
We find the air quality good here. Most days are quite clear. People can have seasonal allergy problems, though.
2. What immunizations are required each year?
3. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Yes, of course. But I've lived in other places where the security is just as bad or worse and the other quality of life factors can't compare. There are no guarantees anywhere anymore, are there?In South Africa, follow the RSO guidelines, be aware, and don't put yourself out as a target (keep your purse hidden in the car, don't leave your cell phone lying around, etc.).We feel great peace of mind by having dogs at our house.
4. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is outstanding here. I have had better care here in some cases than in the States. We have used several local doctors as well as the emergency room services of our local hospital for weekend pediatric concerns and they are quick, efficient and affordable. Dental and orthodontic work is much cheaper, and this IS the place to come (so they say!) for plastic surgery.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
I doubt there are many places in the world that could beat Pretoria's weather. It's supposed to have the best weather in South Africa and it's certainly the best among anywhere I've ever lived/traveled. Almost year-round sunny days with afternoon temps in the 60s-80s. Summers can get hot, but with low humidity, it doesn't feel so bad. Winter mornings and evenings are chilly but we've rarely needed more than an extra sweater and scarf. The winters are VERY dry and you'll want a good moisturizer and lip balm.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I have two kids at the Pretoria branch of the American International School and this has got to be the best school in the world! The atmosphere at the school is warm and nurturing and even though it seems like they are only having fun, the kids are really learning! The teachers and staff know each kid individually and they make every child feel special. You'd have a hard time finding anyone with something negative to say about this school. I'd keep my kids here forever if I could.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
My elementary school children do have special needs and I know from first-hand experience that they are in a phenomenal place. The school administrators have been very creative and intuitive and worked with me to put together a support system and program that is better than anything I could get in the States. If you have special needs elementary age children, I would highly recommend you look into the Pretoria branch of AISJ; coming here was one of the best choices we made for our children. I do not have any information on special needs accommodations for older children at the main AISJ campus or the other international schools in Pretoria. There are also several schools and resources for more severe special needs. I've found the knowledge and expertise of therapists to be as good as in the States in most cases.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
I have had my youngest in two of the local preschools here and both have been fantastic. There are many to chose from - you have several 'international' preschools were many of the diplomats send their children, and, because English is the most common spoken language, you also have the option of neighborhood schools. My daughter is in a neighborhood school that is top-notch and it's been a great way for us to feel more connected with South Africans.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
There is a huge sports culture here - rugby is the main sport (not big in the U.S.), but you can find everything else, too. There are great opportunities for kids and adults to challenge themselves with bike races, 5K runs, open dam swims, etc.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large; South Africa is a huge hub for all of Africa for many embassies, so there are lots of diplomats here. Plus, there are many NGOs working on AIDS and other regional issues.
2. Morale among expats:
It really depends. Our circle of friends are extremely positive and we know we've found a gem of a place to be posted. Others, though, are scared off by threat of crime.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
The main activity are backyard bbq's (called braiis).With young kids, we have lots of social events revolving around birthday parties, swimming invitations, etc. This is also a great place for adults to socialize over a game of golf, tennis, or anything sports-related.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Singles may have the hardest time of any group here, particularly single women, because of the security concerns. This has been a paradise for our family with young children - there is so much to do with the kids and the weather makes it easy to be outside all day.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I really can't say. I imagine it would be OK in Pretoria, but Johannesburg is definitely more liberal and open-minded.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Well, you wouldn't want to consider a posting in South Africa unless you know something about apartheid and South African history in general. It's only been about 15 years since apartheid ended and changing attitudes doesn't happen overnight. There isn't just a black/white issue either - there are issues between white British descendants and white Dutch (Afrikaaner) descendants and there are numerous black tribes that come into conflict with one another. Add to that some recent flare-ups of xenophobia attacks in the townships where South African blacks are attacking black immigrants from neighboring countries, and yes, you definitely have racial and other tensions. But overall, the people are trying to find one 'South African' identity, and the 2010 World Cup is really bringing the nation together.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Safaris, diamond mines, archeological sites, mountain biking and hiking, great zoos, beaches...too many things to mention. You can't possibly get bored here. The real problem is narrowing down your choices to do/see everything during your tour.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Lots of 'African' crafts - some are from South Africa, others are imported from other African countries.
9. Can you save money?
If you do, you're missing out. South Africa really knows how to pull off tourism; don't miss out!
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely. This will probably always be one of our favorite posts.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Heavy winter clothes and your idea that this is hard-core Africa. You will be confused and think you are in Europe half the time. You can chose how much you want to surround yourself in the diplomatic, Westernized lifestyle or how far into the bush or rural life you want to go.
3. But don't forget your:
Open mind, sense of adventure, sunscreen!
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The Covenant by James Michener. The Power of One (Bryce Courtenay).
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The Covenant by James Michener. The Power of One (Bryce Courtenay).
7. Do you have any other comments?
Pretoria has had some difficulty filling positions at post because of some negative comments and opinions. We personally feel this is a fantastic posting. You have the standard of living that is equal to the US or Europe with the benefits of developing country living, such as large housing and domestic help. Plus good weather and English speakers all around.... the plusses have far outweighed the minuses for us.
