Mbabane, Swaziland Report of what it's like to live there - 03/10/08
Personal Experiences from Mbabane, Swaziland
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
I've had previous postings in Belize City, Belize and Frankfurt, Germany.
2. How long have you lived here?
Less than a year.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
I work for the U.S. Embassy.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
There are direct flights to Johannesburg from Atlanta and DC. From Johannesburg it's only a 20-minute flight to Manzini and then a 20-minute drive to Mbabane. If you go though Europe the trip becomes 24 hours plus.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Houses are large and comfortable with large, landscaped yards. Many have fireplaces and a few have pools. Nothing in Mbabane is more than 10 minutes from the various embassy buildings and several houses are in easy walking distance of the offices. The ones that aren't make up for it with stunning views.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Everthing is available here, but it is all a little pricey as everything is imported from South Africa.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Nothing, really.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
KFC is the only American fast food but there are a few South African chains here- Nando's, Spur, Steers.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We have pouch, which has been maddening lately. It takes a couple of weeks to get to Pretoria and then another month to get on to Mbabane. Local mail is expensive and not very reliable.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Readily available and inexpensive. We pay our housekeeper outrageously at US$150 a month for full time. Most housekeepers and gardeners get about $100 per month.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are accepted most places and there are ATMs in many locations. All are relatively safe.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes- Anglican, Catholic, Methodist, Lutheran and a lot of African Christian hybrid churches. There is also a very small mosque.
5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
There are two local papers and one local TV channel. All are in English. AFN direct to sailor is available for the cost of the decoder and dish and we also get DSTV from South Africa.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
People love you if you can greet them in SiSwati, but English is spoken by almost everyone.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
It would be doable in Mbabane- this city actually has sidewalks and a few elevators- but not very easy. Outside of Mbabane it would be challenging.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
Right hand side, like the U.S.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
One does need a 4X4 to get into the parks and to a few very rural villages. For everything else, though, any car is fine.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Swaziland still uses dial-up connections with a maximum speed of 128k. The monthly charge is only about US$50, but you pay per minute on the telephone connection. We've heard lots of rumors, though, that wireless internet is coming in the next few months.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Prepaid service is easy and cheap. An unlocked GSM phone works with local SIM cards.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
We use a call back service. The internet is poor here, so services like Vonage and Skype don't work well.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There is a good vet and the local humane society offers boarding. We haven't tried it, but previous embassy people used it regularly.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There is lots of development work here. I've heard that some people have difficulty finding paying work, but everyone I know who has wanted to work outside of the Embassy has found something.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
It is pretty conservative. Men wear suits and ties, women often wear skirts. A woman is not allowed to wear pants in the presence of the king.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Good. Swaziland has little industy and few cars to pollute the air.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Crime is rated as critical and embassy residences have 24-hour guards. There have been a few attempted break-ins since we've been here. That said, though, I feel quite safe in Swaziland, even walking alone (during the day) as a woman. The crime here is mostly opportunistic and in no way compares to that of neighboring South Africa or Mozambique.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The medical care here is very poor and the hospitals here are collapsing under the weight of HIV/AIDS. High quality medical care is just across the border in South Africa, though.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Cool, dry winters with possibility of frost. Moderately warm summers with regular rain showers. Mbabane is in the mountains, so even in the summer it doesn't get too hot.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are no international schools here. There are approved local schools, though, both primary and secondary. The high school offers an IB program but as there are no high school kids at post now I know very little about it. There are two approved elementary schools- Sifundzani and Usutu Forrest School. About half of the embassy kids go to each. Usutu has smaller classes and offers kindergarten, but it is quite a ways out of town. Both primary schools follow the British system and Sifundzani starts at Grade 1. Both offer plenty of extra-curricular activities including computer classes, soccer, tennis, cricket, swimming...The school year is based on the Southern Hemisphere calendar, running January through December and classes are from 7:30 to 12:30.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I would guess the schools are ill-equipped to deal with anything other than very minor special needs.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
We love our daughter's preschool! There are two Montessori schools and a third good preschool as well. They start at 18 months and go through age 6.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
It is small, but growing.
2. Morale among expats:
With the standard few exceptions, morale among expats here is high.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Mostly in home stuff- lots of barbeques and dinners. There is a theatre club that we are hoping to re-energize.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's a great place for couples and families. The country is beautiful, the people are warm and friendly and there is tons to do. I think it would be more difficult for singles and teenagers as most of the entertainment is self-made.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Swazi society is very traditional and homosexuality is definitely frowned upon. However, I've heard that there is a Swazi Gay and Lesbian society so things may be changing.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Swaziland is remarkably without racial prejudices. They've been independent for 40 years and blacks, whites, and Asians have lived peacefully together for generations. There are also few religious problems, perhaps because 98% of the country is Christian/Zionist. As for women- Swazi women were only granted the status of legal adults when the new constitution was implemented in 2006. There are a number of educated, working women in Swaziland, which contrasts dramatically with the fact that they can't access their bank accounts without the husband's permission. Polygamy is still very common and accepted, but things are definitely changing (if ever so slowly).
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Hiking, biking, mountain climbing, horseback riding, wildlife viewing, ATVs, paragliding, white water rafting, fishing, tennis, craft markets. If you are into outdoor activities, Swaziland is the place to be.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Weaving, baskets, bead work, glass, candles.
9. Can you save money?
Yes. Especially if you don't travel to South Africa every weekend.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
In a heartbeat.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Hope of every downloading a podcast.
3. But don't forget your:
Outdoor furniture. The weather here is beautiful.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Wah-Wah.
7. Do you have any other comments?
Swaziland has most of the positives of South Africa, without the crime. The country is stunning and easily accessible. The people are open and friendly. Their complacency in the face of all of Swaziland's challenges can be frustrating, but overall it is a great place to live.
