Mbabane, Swaziland Report of what it's like to live there - 05/03/10
Personal Experiences from Mbabane, Swaziland
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
2nd tour with State Department, 3rd expat experience overall, first in Africa.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
From DC to Mbabane takes 20+ hours. There are some DC, Atlanta, or NY to Johannesburg direct flights that take about 16 hours.
3. How long have you lived here?
One year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Foreign Service tour.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Single-family homes. The commute during the school year takes about 15 minutes. During school vacation it takes about 10 minutes. Houses have a suburban feel, and they generally have decent yards. A few have pools.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Items are brought in from South Africa. I thought I would have to travel to S.A. frequently to round out my grocery list, but I've been able to find most things in Mbabane. Of course, that was before the country decided to stop bringing in soy milk... (that used to be my go-to example of how you could get just about everything. Now I'm learning how to eat cereal dry).
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Chocolate chips. Baby wipes (expensive here). Camping equipment (you can get it in S.A., though).
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Swaziland has some nice restaurant offerings that span the range from cheap to moderately expensive. KFC is popular as a fast-food restaurant.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Well, you do get ants around, but they are not a huge problem.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
The embassy has a pouch - it takes about 2-3 weeks to receive packages.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Great availability. Cost is between 120-320 USD per month.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are some Curves, and the U.S. Embassy has a small gym in one of its satellite offices.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
If you are with the U.S. Embassy, you can cash checks for local currency. ATMs are available at the main tourist hotels in the valley and at some of the shopping centers. I'd exercise caution, but they're probably fine.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes. Most Christian denominations. A few Mosques.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
International papers are a bit expensive. People read the two local dailies. South African newspapers are available.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English is a national language, so you can more than get by with it. Nevertheless, siSwati is still commonly used, and learning some, as always, will bring great dividends.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
The town and country are not set up for someone with physical disabilities.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Local transportation is affordable, but check with whatever organization you are coming with regarding whether you should be using them. Crime could be an issue.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
I recommend a 4x4 so you can easily drive within game parks and to rural parts of the country (or Mozambique). The roads between most attractions around Mbabane are quite nice, and any car would do.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
"High-speed" internet is available, but your speed certainly can vary throughout the day. Still, it's enough to do video skype calls 90% of the time. Cost is between 70 and 250 USD a month, depending on your plan.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
This is rated as a critical crime post. While that may be true, it feels much safer than the surrounding countries. I feel quite safe walking around town. At night, though, I wouldn't walk around if I were a women (not looking to be sexist; during the day, everyone walks everywhere, as soon as evening comes, the only people walking around the streets are men. Most people are already home or at restaurants, or at the few clubs, or at the hotels in the valley (two have casinos).
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Excellent. People do like to burn the fields, so it can occasionally get smokey. But for the most part the air is clean and clear.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
My non-scientific estimates: in Mbabane it averages from 60-95 in summer and 50-80 in winter. There is a rainy season that usually entails some rain during the day, but not all day, every day. I find the climate to be absolutely wonderful.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
For high-school-age kids, there are some fantastic schools. Elementary schools are fine. Haven't heard many complaints.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Not sure. I'd do my research and check with each school.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Plenty of preschools around, although they sometimes fill up, so try to get a spot early. You can hire nannies as well.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
I don't have school-age children, but soccer, golf, ballet, and swimming are all available.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Small. The only diplomatic missions are Taiwan, Moz., S.A., and U.S. - EU has an office. Development workers are here from a variety of countries. South Africans, some business people, and Peace Corps Volunteers make up the rest.
2. Morale among expats:
Pretty good. It is a small country with a small-town feel, so people know each other's business. You are living in the country with the highest prevalence of HIV/AIDS in the world, and the impact that the loss of life has on the community can take its toll.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It can be a great tour for families and couples, and okay for singles, depending on what you are looking for. Cosmopolitan it is not.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
There is a small gay/lesbian community, but Swaziland's is still grappling with homosexuality, and if you were public with your orientation, it would certainly draw (likely negative) attention.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Regarding gender and race, there are vast differences in how those characteristics are treated between rural and urban, traditional and progressive, tourism-focused and private Swaziland. I feel quite comfortable as an expat, but this is the first time I've lived someplace where being white is the my predominant characteristic. I don't think Swaziland is exceptional in this, however. For good or ill, Swaziland retains a great deal of traditional society elements, and Swazi women are affected by the "ill" parts. As an expat, or within the "urban" areas, I don't think you feel these effects (although you can read about abuse issues in the newspaper every day), unless you work in an educational, social service, or health care environment where you serve the local community.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Mlilwane, Malalotja, and Hlane game reserves, shopping at Ngwenya Glass, Swazi Candles, and Gone Rural; hiking Sibebe rock, enjoying pony rides for my kids at farms, eating at Sommerfields, and regional travel southern Africa.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Although in a country this small you begin to run out of new things to do, regional travel is quite accessible.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Swazi candles, Tintsaba crafts, woven placemats, Ngwenya glass articles.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The weather in Swaziland is fantastic. In the high or middleveld it is similar to Southern California, if you add rain. If you like game reserves, hiking, and really nice crafts, you'll enjoy yourself. It is 4 hours to Pretoria or Johannesburg for all the amenities you can't find in-country, and beaches in Mozambique or South Africa are a 3- to 5-hour drive.
11. Can you save money?
Yes.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Certainly. The country offers some unique benefits and challenges. I view it as a country feeling its way towards a modern future, trying to figure out which traditional elements it must discard, and which it wants to maintain. Although it is a middle-income country (and you can see that wealth compared to other African countries), 70% live in poverty, and HIV/AIDS is devastating the people. It is an absolute monarchy, and that fact and accompanying traditional system pervades life here.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
3. But don't forget your:
outdoor enthusiast attitude.
