Tbilisi, Georgia Report of what it's like to live there - 03/27/25
Personal Experiences from Tbilisi, Georgia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Three oversea tours in East Asia and one tour in Central Asia, Bishkek.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Arlington, VA. It takes eight hours to fly from DC to Munich, followed by a close to ten hour layover in Munich, and then four hours from Munich to Tbilisi. The entire journey takes about 22 hours. Many flights leave Tbilisi International Airport around 6 a.m., so getting up at 3 a.m. for most international flights is not pleasant
3. How long have you lived here?
Since August 2024.
4. What years did you live here?
08/2024 - 06/2027.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing in Tbilisi is generally divided into three main categories: apartments downtown, compound living near the embassy, and standalone homes near the embassy.
City Apartments:
• Description: City apartments are typically large but often have unusual layouts and limited storage space. They offer easy access to restaurants, shops, parks, and various activities. Apartments are spread out, with some located in the city center and others a 10-15 minute drive away. Be specific in your housing survey.
• Pros: Well-constructed with modern appliances and amenities, these apartments provide a vibrant urban lifestyle with plenty of nearby conveniences and green spaces, including large parks.
• Cons: City living comes with significant noise from street traffic. The commute to the Embassy can be long and stressful, taking 15-20 minutes if you leave before 7:30 am, and 30-45 minutes after 8 am, with evening commutes ranging from 45 to 90 minutes. Public transportation is not viable, so driving or using ride-hailing services like Bolt is necessary. Biking is not recommended. Driving in Tbilisi is hazardous due to aggressive and reckless driving.
Compound Living Near the Embassy:
• Description: The compound offers small villas for singles and childless couples (two-bedroom townhouses) and larger villas (3-4 bedroom houses) for families. It is a gated community with amenities such as a gym and pool, and is connected to QSI, making it convenient for school-age children.
• Pros: Close to the embassy, making the commute short. Families appreciate the safe environment for children and proximity to the international school. Larger villas offer great views and decent-sized yards, though not all have large yards. Housing on the lower street usually lacks city views.
• Cons: Homes are very close together, providing little privacy. The compound is isolated, making it difficult to walk anywhere, and the small villas are the smallest in the housing pool.
Standalone Homes Near the Embassy:
• Description: Standalone homes vary in quality, with some being very nice and others somewhat outdated. These homes typically have decent-sized yards, though some are paved.
• Pros: More privacy and space compared to the compound. The short commute to the embassy is a significant advantage. Tbilisi Mall is in the Digomi area.
• Cons: The neighborhood can have issues with stray dogs, which sometimes chase pets and act aggressively towards people. The quality of the homes can be inconsistent. Families with small children find it hard to walk around the neighborhood.
We live in a gated community (Zurgovani) where most housing belongs to the U.S. Embassy. Our 3-bedroom home has a decent-sized kitchen, living room, dining space, and backyard. We are very happy with our house. Most embassy-owned houses with 3 or 4 bedrooms on the upper level come with a garage, while those on the lower level do not, limiting storage space.
A big advantage is the QSI school being connected to the compound, making it easier for kids to go to school and attend after-school activities. However, there are no restaurants or stores within walking distance. For EFMs in Zurgovani and Digomi, social isolation is a real challenge. Driving in Tbilisi is extremely challenging and stressful due to reckless and aggressive drivers, so many EFMs who usually drive in the U.S. choose not to drive here, exacerbating social isolation.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Availability:
• Supermarkets and Grocery Stores: Tbilisi has a wide range of supermarkets and grocery stores, including both local chains and international brands. Popular supermarkets include Carrefour, Goodwill, and Spar, which offer a variety of products ranging from fresh produce to household essentials.
• Local Markets: In addition to supermarkets, there are several local markets (bazaars) where you can find fresh fruits, vegetables, meats, and dairy products. These markets often provide a more authentic shopping experience and can be a great place to find locally sourced items. One notable bazaar is the "Deserter Bazaar" in downtown, which offers great produce. However, it is unrealistic to shop there during the week due to traffic, so I usually go there once a month, and it is at least a half-day event.
• Specialty Stores: There are also specialty stores that cater to specific dietary needs, such as organic food stores and international food shops that stock products from various countries.
Cost:
Comparison to the U.S. and Europe:
Overall, the cost of locally produced groceries and household supplies in Tbilisi is lower compared to the U.S. This includes items like fresh fruits, vegetables, and meats. Higher Cost for Imported Goods: Imported goods, including certain packaged foods, specialty items, and international brands, tend to be more expensive in Tbilisi than in the U.S. This is due to import taxes and shipping costs. The cost of living has gone up significantly after the Ukraine war, with a huge influx of Russians. Even though many Russians have already left, the cost hasn't gone down at all.
The post Cost of Living Adjustment (COLA) influx is between 0 to 5%.
- A good way to check grocery costs and availability is to download food delivery apps such as "Wolt", “Glovo” and "Bolt Food." Many big grocery stores deliver fresh produce.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Suggested Items for CNS shipments
- Beverages K-Cups (none here), low sugar juice boxes, cocktail mixers, sports/electrolyte drinks snacks (for U.S. brands), crackers, cookies, chips/tortilla chips, granola bars, fruit snacks, popcorn, and lunchbox treats.
- Canned/jar goods: pumpkin, cranberry sauce, soup, beans, veggies (green beans), peanut butter, stock (only bullion available here), green chilies/ fire-roasted tomatoes
- Specialty foods: spices (e.g., cayenne, cumin, garlic powder), curry paste, tahini, coconut aminos, and organic items.
- Sauces (for U.S. brands): BBQ sauce, hot sauce, pasta sauce, cooking sauces, salsa, pancake/maple syrup, salad dressings, Miracle whip, low-fat mayo, and specialty vinegars.
- Baking needs: brown sugar, powdered sugar, vanilla extract, baking powder, frosting, baking mixes, pancake mix, non-bleached all purpose flour, bread flour, chocolate chips, and pecans.
- Dry foods, US breakfast cereals, brown rice, black beans, boxed mac n’ cheese, specialty rice mixes, sushi/jasmine rice (only plain long-grain rice available here)Pet food and treats
- Children’s items - children’s medicines, baby formula, baby food (options are limited),finger foods such as Goldfish, Cheerios.
- Toiletries (for US brands) - makeup, facial care products, dry shampoo, OTC medicines, contact solution
- Cleaning and Laundry - dryer sheets, trash bags (to fit any trash cans you bring),heavy duty lawn trash bags, Lysol-type wipes, Tide Pods, Ziploc bags, aluminum foil(good quality), spray starch, Febreze, Oxi Clean, ant traps, US brand paper towels, US brand toilet paper, Kleenex consumables
Note, all flour sold locally are bleached
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
You can find all different kinds of cuisines in Tbilisi. However, we have a hard time finding good Asian restaurants. What is available in Tbilisi is passable. There are many wonderful Georgian restaurants in the city. Food delivery options are great. One thing to keep in mind is that food in Georgia is very salty. Most delivered food is VERY salty. It took a while to get used to it. Additionally, the cost for restaurants has gone up in Tbilisi, so dining out can be more expensive than two years ago.
Wolt:
o Description: Wolt is a popular food delivery app in Tbilisi that offers a wide selection of restaurants, including local eateries and international chains. The app is user-friendly and provides real-time tracking of orders.
o Features: Wolt offers various cuisine options, including Georgian, Italian, Asian, and more. It also provides grocery delivery from select stores.
o Availability: Wolt operates throughout Tbilisi and is known for its reliable service and timely deliveries.
Bolt Food:
o Description: Bolt Food is another widely used food delivery service in Tbilisi. It is part of the Bolt ride-hailing platform and offers a diverse range of restaurant options.
o Features: The app provides access to numerous restaurants, covering different cuisines and price ranges. Bolt Food also offers promotions and discounts regularly.
o Availability: Bolt Food is available across Tbilisi and is appreciated for its efficient delivery service.
Glovo:
o Description: Glovo is a versatile delivery service that not only delivers food from restaurants but also offers grocery delivery, courier services, and more.
o Features: Glovo allows users to order from a variety of restaurants and stores, including pharmacies and supermarkets. The app is known for its wide range of delivery options.
o Availability: Glovo operates in Tbilisi and is popular for its convenience and broad service offerings.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
The houses close to the mountain occasionally has scorpions. but GSO stays on top of it.
Daily Life:
1. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Nannies:
Please note that some nannies perform housekeeping and cooking duties as well. Generally, nannies that provide additional services (cooking, house keeping, etc.) garner higher wages.
Average Georgian Lari (GEL)/hour, Lowest, Highest
21.62 GEL 18 GEL 30 GEL
Please note that the value of the GEL has increased significantly over the past two years.
2022 Average GEL/hour 2023 Average GEL/hour 2024 Average GEL/hour
15.4 GEL 17.3 GEL 21.62 GEL
Housekeepers:
The average housekeeper’s salary fluctuates slightly depending on the duration and frequency of their visits.
Average GEL/hour Lowest Highest
18.75 GEL 16 GEL 25 GEL
Please note that the value of the GEL has increased significantly.
2022 Average GEL/hour 2023 Average GEL/hour 2024 Average GEL/hour
14.8 GEL 17.1 GEL 18.75 GEL
Drivers
Full time driver average rate: 1,350 GEL/month
Pet Caretakers
Daily walks: 20 - 30 GEL
Nightly Rate: 35 - 60 GEL
2. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
It really depends on which part of town you live in. For the Zurgovani and Digomi areas, it is not always safe to walk, run, or bike due to cars and stray dogs. However, there are areas you can drive to that are safe for biking. There are also many wonderful hiking spots near Tbilisi. Joining an expat hiking and biking group is a great way to discover all the good places for exercising.
Popular Areas:
Vake Park: A large park that is popular for walking, running, and outdoor workouts. It has well-maintained paths and is generally safe.
Mtatsminda Park: Located on Mtatsminda Mountain, this park offers scenic trails for hiking and running. It is a popular spot for both locals and expatriates.
Lisi Lake: A favorite spot for jogging, walking, and outdoor fitness activities, with a well-maintained path around the lake.
Rike Park: Situated along the Mtkvari River, Rike Park features walking paths and open spaces for exercise, with beautiful views of the city.
Bike riding is possible in certain areas of Tbilisi, but the city's infrastructure is not fully developed for cycling. Dedicated bike lanes are limited, and traffic can be challenging.
In general, city apartments offer easy access to green space. Zurgovani and Digomi housing offers limited access for outdoor exercising. However, we have biking group, hiking and basketball group in our community and folks usually organize regular activities during the weekend.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Tbilisi has a variety of gyms and fitness centers catering to different needs and preferences. These range from basic gyms with essential equipment to high-end fitness centers offering a wide array of services.
-World Class Tbilisi: A premium fitness center offering state-of-the-art equipment, group classes, personal training, and wellness services.
-Snap Fitness: An international chain with modern facilities, 24/7 access, and a variety of fitness programs.
-Gldani Fitness Center: A more affordable option with essential gym equipment and group classes.
-Yoga and Pilates Studios: There are several studios in Tbilisi offering yoga, Pilates, and other wellness classes.
-Yoga Cave: Offers a range of yoga classes for different skill levels.
-Pilates Tbilisi: Specializes in Pilates classes and personalized training sessions.
For those interested in martial arts, boxing, or other combat sports, there are specialized gyms available.
Tbilisi Fight Club: Offers training in boxing, kickboxing, and mixed martial arts.
Georgian Martial Arts Academy: Provides classes in various martial arts disciplines.
Swimming Pools and Sports Complexes: Some facilities offer swimming pools, tennis courts, and other sports amenities.
Olympic Swimming Pool: A well-maintained facility with a large swimming pool and additional sports amenities.
Tbilisi Sports Palace: Offers various sports facilities, including basketball courts and a swimming pool.
Cost:
Membership Fees: The cost of gym memberships in Tbilisi can vary widely depending on the type of facility and the services offered.
High-End Gyms: Premium fitness centers like World Class Tbilisi can be more expensive, with monthly memberships ranging from $70 to $150 or more.
Mid-Range Gyms: Mid-range gyms and fitness centers typically charge between $30 and $70 per month.
Budget Gyms: More affordable options, such as local gyms, may have membership fees ranging from $15 to $30 per month.
Class Fees: Yoga, Pilates, and martial arts studios may charge per class or offer package deals. Prices can range from $5 to $15 per class, with discounts for purchasing multiple sessions.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are widely accepted and safe to use in Georgia. ATMs are common and safe to use as well.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
English-language religious services in Tbilisi are available locally. Check with local expat community on FB is a great way to find this information.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
While many people in Tbilisi, especially in the younger generation and in the service industry, speak some English, having a basic understanding of Georgian can significantly enhance your daily living experience. Knowing common phrases and greetings can help with simple interactions in markets, shops, and public transportation.
For more in-depth interactions, such as dealing with local authorities, medical services, or navigating less touristy areas, a better grasp of Georgian or Russian (which is also widely spoken) can be very helpful. There are numerous language schools and private tutors in Tbilisi that offer Georgian language classes. These classes range from beginner to advanced levels and can be tailored to your specific needs. Websites like ExpatHub and local Facebook groups often have recommendations for language schools and tutors.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Tbilisi's infrastructure can present challenges for individuals with physical disabilities. Many buildings, including residential and commercial properties, may lack proper accessibility features such as ramps, elevators, and wide doorways.
Public transportation options, such as buses and the metro, are not always fully accessible. While some newer buses have ramps, the majority of the public transportation system may not be equipped to accommodate individuals with mobility issues.
Sidewalks in Tbilisi can be uneven, narrow, and often obstructed by parked cars or other obstacles, making navigation difficult for those using wheelchairs or other mobility aids.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Local buses, metro, trains and taxis are generally safe and very affordable. We are recommending people to use Bolts for taxis.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
A 4-wheel drive SUV is probably the best option if you plan to do road trips often. For day-to-day city driving, a regular sedan is likely the best option. Many people from our community use Gotrip for some of the out-of-town trips. It is convenient, safe, and affordable. I would advise not takings cars with low clearance to Tbilisi.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
In summary, high-speed home internet access is readily available in Tbilisi, with several ISPs offering reliable and fast connections. The installation process typically takes a few days to a week, so it is advisable to contact the provider promptly upon arrival or even before arriving to ensure a smooth setup.
For my community, the commissary will help to install the internet, but it is advised to reach out to GSO to check the status of the internet. If there isn't much gap from when the previous family moved out, it might be better to pay for the gap month rather than reinstall the internet, which could take a long time.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Local cell phone provider is very affordable and reliable. I pay 14gel every month for 60 minute of call, 100SMS, and 3000MB of data. But I do keep my U.S. phone, I use Tello services. cost me 6 USD a month to keep my U.S number and be able to use it for two step verification for varies apps.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Tbilisi has several qualified veterinarians and veterinary clinics that provide a range of services, including routine check-ups, vaccinations, emergency care, and specialized treatments.
Some well-regarded veterinary clinics in Tbilisi include:
Vetex Clinic: Known for its experienced staff and comprehensive services.
VetLife Clinic: Offers a wide range of veterinary services and has a good reputation among expatriates.
Pet House Clinic: Provides quality care and has English-speaking veterinarians.
Kennel Services:
Availability: Good kennel services are available in Tbilisi, offering boarding and daycare options for pets. These facilities typically provide safe and comfortable environments for pets while their owners are away.
Popular Kennels: Some recommended kennels include:
Happy Paws: Known for its attentive care and clean facilities.
Pet Hotel Tbilisi: Offers various boarding options and has positive reviews from pet owners.
Quarantine Requirements:
Animals do not need to be quarantined upon entry to Georgia. However, it is essential to check the most current regulations before traveling, as requirements can change.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
For U.S. Embassy families, please email the Community Liaison Office (CLO) for the FAMER.
Expatriate spouses/partners in Tbilisi find employment in a variety of sectors, including international organizations, education, hospitality, and telecommuting roles. Both full-time and part-time opportunities are available, with salary scales varying based on the industry and job role. But in general, salary could be lower than the U.S.
Local salary is low. 800usd a month is consider a very good salary in Georgia.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Tbilisi offers a wide range of volunteer opportunities across various sectors, including social services, education, environmental conservation, and community development. By engaging with local NGOs, community groups, and educational programs, volunteers can make a positive difference in the community.
Non-Governmental Organizations (NGOs):
Caritas Georgia: This organization focuses on social services, healthcare, and education for vulnerable populations. Volunteers can assist with various programs, including working with children, the elderly, and people with disabilities.
Red Cross Georgia: The Red Cross offers opportunities for volunteers to engage in disaster response, health education, and community support programs.
UNICEF Georgia: Volunteers can support initiatives aimed at improving the lives of children and families through education, health, and protection programs.
Community and Social Services:
Tbilisi Animal Shelter: Volunteers can help care for animals, assist with adoption events, and support the shelter's operations.
Food Bank Georgia: This organization provides food assistance to those in need. Volunteers can help with food collection, packaging, and distribution.
Habitat for Humanity Georgia: Volunteers can participate in building and renovating homes for low-income families, contributing to community development and housing stability.
Educational and Cultural Programs:
American Corner Tbilisi: This cultural center offers various programs and events to promote American culture and education. Volunteers can assist with organizing events, language exchange programs, and educational workshops.
Teach English: There are opportunities to volunteer as an English teacher or tutor in local schools, community centers, and language institutes. This can help improve language skills and provide valuable educational support to students.
Environmental and Conservation Efforts:
CENN (Caucasus Environmental NGO Network): Volunteers can engage in environmental conservation projects, awareness campaigns, and community outreach programs focused on sustainability and environmental protection.
Green Alternative: This organization works on environmental advocacy and sustainable development. Volunteers can participate in research, advocacy, and community education initiatives.
Expatriate and Community Groups:
International Women's Association Georgia (IWAG): This group offers various volunteer opportunities, including charity events, community service projects, and support for local initiatives.
Rotary Club Tbilisi: Rotary Club members engage in various community service projects, including health, education, and social services. Volunteers can join and contribute to these efforts.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
The typical dress code at work in Tbilisi ranges from business formal to business casual, depending on the industry and workplace. In public places, casual and smart casual attire are common, with an emphasis on modesty and cultural sensitivity in certain settings. Formal dress may be required for important events and meetings.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
General Safety:
Overall Safety: Tbilisi is generally considered a safe city for expatriates and visitors. Violent crime is relatively rare, and the city has a low crime rate compared to many other major cities. However, like any urban area, it is important to remain vigilant and take common-sense precautions.
Common Security Concerns:
Traffic and Road Safety: Traffic in Tbilisi can be chaotic, with aggressive driving and frequent disregard for traffic rules. Pedestrians should exercise caution when crossing streets, and drivers should be prepared for unpredictable road conditions and behavior.
Petty Crime: Petty crimes such as pickpocketing, bag snatching, and theft can occur, particularly in crowded areas, tourist spots, and public transportation. It is advisable to keep an eye on your belongings, avoid displaying valuable items, and be cautious in busy areas.
Scams: Be aware of potential scams targeting tourists and expatriates. These can include overcharging by taxi drivers, fake tour guides, and fraudulent offers. It is best to use reputable services and verify the credentials of service providers.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Health Concerns and Quality of Medical Care in Tbilisi
Health Concerns:
Air Quality: One of the primary health concerns in Tbilisi is air quality, particularly during the winter months. Increased use of heating systems and temperature inversions can lead to higher levels of pollution, which can exacerbate respiratory conditions such as asthma and bronchitis.
Water Quality: Tap water in Tbilisi is generally considered safe for drinking, but some expatriates prefer to use filtered or bottled water to avoid any potential issues.
Food Safety: While food safety standards in Tbilisi are improving, it is still advisable to be cautious with street food and ensure that food from restaurants and markets is properly cooked and handled.
Infectious Diseases: There are no major endemic infectious diseases in Tbilisi, but it is always a good idea to stay up to date with routine vaccinations and consult with a healthcare provider about any additional vaccinations that may be recommended.
Quality of Medical Care:
Healthcare Facilities: Tbilisi has a mix of public and private healthcare facilities. While some private hospitals and clinics offer high-quality care with modern equipment and English-speaking staff, public hospitals may have limited resources and longer wait times. Quality of service, hidden and miss. Dental care is very affordable, however, quality of services is not consistent.
Recommended Facilities: Some of the well-regarded private hospitals and clinics in Tbilisi include:
New Hospitals: Known for its modern facilities and comprehensive medical services.
MediClubGeorgia: Offers a range of medical services with English-speaking staff and is popular among expatriates.
American Medical Center: Provides high-quality care with a focus on serving the expatriate community.
Any complicate dsurgery or medical condition requires medevac for our embassy.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
General Air Quality:
• Overview: The air quality in Tbilisi can vary significantly throughout the year. While there are periods of relatively good air quality, there are also times when pollution levels can be concerning.
• Pollutants: Common pollutants in Tbilisi include particulate matter (PM2.5 and PM10), nitrogen dioxide (NO2), sulfur dioxide (SO2), and carbon monoxide (CO). These pollutants primarily come from vehicle emissions, industrial activities, and residential heating.
Seasonal Air Quality Issues:
• Winter months: Air quality tends to be worse during the winter months (November to February). This is due to increased use of heating systems, which often rely on burning wood or coal, and temperature inversions that trap pollutants close to the ground.
• Summer months: During the summer, air quality can also be affected by vehicle emissions and industrial activities. However, the levels of particulate matter are generally lower compared to the winter months.
• Spring and fall: Air quality during the spring and fall is typically better than in the winter but can still be impacted by traffic and industrial emissions.
Impact on Health:
• Respiratory issues: Poor air quality, especially high levels of particulate matter, can exacerbate respiratory conditions such as asthma, bronchitis, and other chronic respiratory diseases.
• Cardiovascular health: Long-term exposure to air pollution can also have adverse effects on cardiovascular health, increasing the risk of heart attacks and strokes.
• Vulnerable populations: Children, the elderly, and individuals with pre-existing health conditions are particularly vulnerable to the effects of poor air quality.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
People with environmental or food allergies in Tbilisi need to be aware of potential triggers such as poor air quality and high pollen levels, as well as the challenges of dining out and grocery shopping.
- Pollen levels can be high during the spring and summer months, which can trigger seasonal allergies.
- Finding allergen-free products may be challenging, but there are options available in supermarkets and specialty stores.
Connecting with the expatriate community and local resources can provide additional support and valuable information.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Yes. Isolation is a common theme here. Stress cause by traffic and driving is also big here.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Tbilisi experiences a humid subtropical climate with hot, dry summers and relatively cold, damp winters. Spring and autumn offer mild and pleasant weather, making them ideal seasons for outdoor activities.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
QSI International School of Tbilisi:
o Curriculum: American-based curriculum with an emphasis on mastery learning.
o Programs: Offers education from preschool through secondary school, including Advanced Placement (AP) courses. Tuition for Preschool for 2025-2026 :
- For half day 4200USD per school year,
- For full day 6200USD per school year, 8:30 a.m. – 4 p.m.
- Bus cost is 1600USD
o Facilities: Modern facilities with well-equipped classrooms, science labs, sports fields, and arts programs.
o Remark: QSI community is very tight. Most children in QSI throughout the grades are very nice and kind. Most Embassy children go to QSI, and it is state sponsored school. My children are having a great time at school. I would say the quality of main course education is on part with the U.S., however, music, art, science projects and sports programs are not as robust as many international schools in Asia. Extra curriculum is also limited.
British International School of Tbilisi (BIST):
o Curriculum: British curriculum (Not IB program), including the National Curriculum of England and the International General Certificate of Secondary Education (IGCSE).
o Programs: Provides education from early years to secondary school, with a focus on holistic development. For Preschool for 7300 foundation 1, 8500 for foundation 2,
o Facilities: State-of-the-art facilities, including science labs, sports facilities, and performing arts spaces.
o Remark: Some of the embassy families send their children to BIST. The campus is beautiful, and it is located right next to Lisi Lake. The music, art, and science programs seem more robust than those at other international schools. The commute from BIST to downtown is usually not too bad, around 30 to 45 minutes. However, the commute to Zurgovani and Digomi can take anywhere from 40 to 90 minutes.
New School International School of Georgia: (we don't have any embassy children in this school)
o Curriculum: International Baccalaureate (IB) programs, including the Primary Years Programme (PYP), Middle Years Programme (MYP), and Diploma Programme (DP).
o Programs: Offers education from early childhood to high school, with a strong emphasis on inquiry-based learning.
o Facilities: Modern campus with extensive resources for academics, sports, and the arts.
European School: (We don't have any children in this school)
o Curriculum: Offers both the IB program and the Georgian National Curriculum, providing a bilingual education option.
o Programs: Education from kindergarten to high school, with a focus on academic excellence and cultural awareness.
o Facilities: Well-equipped facilities, including science and computer labs, sports facilities, and arts programs.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Education for special-needs kids is very limited here. Please reach out to the CLO and specific school about the special-needs information.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are English daycares available at post. QSI offers great prices for preschool children compared with the U.S. Most international schools offer after-school activities free of charge, and most of them finish by 4 pm.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
• Community size: The size of the expatriate community has seen fluctuations, particularly influenced by geopolitical events and economic opportunities. The influx of expatriates can vary, but overall, Tbilisi remains a popular destination for those working in international roles.
Overall Morale:
• Mixed feelings: The overall morale among expatriates in Tbilisi is mixed. While some expatriates appreciate the unique cultural experiences and the opportunity to live in a historically rich city, others find certain aspects challenging.
Positive Aspects:
o Cultural experience: Many expatriates enjoy the rich cultural heritage, historical sites, and the vibrant local traditions of Tbilisi.
o Community support: The expatriate community tends to be close-knit, providing support and camaraderie through social events, clubs, and online forums.
o Cost of living: Compared to many Western cities, the cost of living in Tbilisi is relatively affordable, which can be a positive factor for expatriates.
Challenges:
o Driving conditions: One of the most commonly cited challenges is the hazardous driving conditions in Tbilisi, with aggressive and reckless driving being prevalent.
o Quality of services: Some expatriates express concerns about the quality of services, including healthcare and customer service.
o Air quality: Air quality, particularly in the winter, can be a concern due to pollution.
o Stray dogs: The presence of stray dogs in certain neighborhoods can be an issue for some expatriates.
o Social isolation: For those living in more isolated areas or compounds, social isolation can be a challenge, especially for singles or childless couples.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
• Cultural Events and Festivals: Tbilisi hosts numerous cultural events and festivals throughout the year, such as the Tbilisi International Film Festival, Tbilisoba (a city-wide celebration), and various music and art festivals. These events provide excellent opportunities to meet both locals and expatriates.
• Dining and Cafes: Tbilisi has a vibrant dining scene with many restaurants, cafes, and wine bars. Socializing over meals and drinks is a common way to connect with others. Popular areas include Rustaveli Avenue, Vake, and the Old Town.
• Outdoor Activities: The city's parks, such as Vake Park and Mtatsminda Park, are popular spots for socializing. Hiking and outdoor excursions to nearby natural attractions like Lisi Lake and the Caucasus Mountains are also great ways to meet people.
• Language Exchange Groups: Participating in language exchange meetups can help expatriates improve their Georgian or Russian language skills while meeting locals. Platforms like Meetup.com often list such events.
Groups and Clubs:
• International Women's Association Georgia (IWAG):
o Description: This group offers social events, charity activities, and networking opportunities for women. It is a great way to connect with other expatriates and get involved in the community.
o Why Join: Provides a supportive network and opportunities to engage in meaningful activities.
• Tbilisi Expat Club:
o Description: A social club that organizes regular events, including dinners, cultural outings, and networking gatherings. It is open to all expatriates and provides a platform to meet new people.
o Why Join: Offers a variety of social events and a chance to build a diverse network.
• Hash House Harriers:
o Description: An international running and social club with a chapter in Tbilisi. They organize weekly runs and social events, combining fitness with fun and camaraderie.
o Why Join: Great for those who enjoy running and want to meet like-minded individuals.
• Sports and Fitness Clubs:
o Description: Joining sports clubs, gyms, or fitness classes can be a good way to socialize. Options include yoga studios, martial arts clubs, and team sports leagues.
o Why Join: Promotes a healthy lifestyle and offers opportunities to meet people with similar interests.
• Volunteer Organizations:
o Description: Getting involved with local NGOs or volunteer groups, such as Caritas Georgia or the Red Cross Georgia, can provide meaningful ways to connect with both locals and expatriates while contributing to the community.
3. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
General Environment:
• Cultural Context: Tbilisi, like much of Georgia, is a city with traditional and conservative values. While there is a growing awareness and some progress in terms of LGBT rights, societal acceptance can still be limited. Public displays of affection between same-sex couples may attract unwanted attention or negative reactions.
• Legal Protections: Georgia has made some strides in legal protections for LGBT individuals. Anti-discrimination laws exist, and same-sex sexual activity is legal. However, these legal protections may not always translate into societal acceptance or safety.
Community and Support:
• LGBT Organizations: There are several organizations in Tbilisi that support the LGBT community, such as the Women's Initiatives Supporting Group (WISG) and Equality Movement. These organizations provide resources, advocacy, and safe spaces for LGBT individuals.
• Expatriate Community: The expatriate community in Tbilisi can be a source of support and solidarity for LGBT individuals. Connecting with other expatriates through social media groups and community events can help build a supportive network.
Social Scene:
• LGBT-Friendly Venues: There are a few LGBT-friendly venues and events in Tbilisi, including bars, clubs, and social gatherings. These spaces can provide a sense of community and safety for LGBT expatriates.
• Pride Events: Tbilisi has seen attempts to hold Pride events, but these have faced significant opposition and security challenges. Participation in such events should be approached with caution and awareness of potential risks.
Safety Considerations:
• Discretion: LGBT expatriates may need to exercise discretion in certain situations to avoid negative reactions or potential harassment. Being mindful of the local cultural context and choosing safe spaces for socializing can help mitigate risks.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
Making friends with locals in Tbilisi is generally possible and can be a rewarding experience. While Georgians are known for their hospitality, being mindful of language barriers and cultural nuances can enhance your ability to connect with locals. It is important to be aware of potential prejudices and approach interactions with sensitivity and respect. Engaging in community activities and showing genuine interest in Georgian culture can help build positive relationships. Usually CLO organizes a very useful Georgian Culture Seminar in the Fall.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
While Tbilisi is generally tolerant, there can be instances of prejudice or discrimination based on ethnicity, race, religion, or gender. Being culturally sensitive, engaging with local communities, and building support networks can help mitigate potential issues and foster positive relationships. Progress in gender equality is evident, but traditional roles and stereotypes may still pose challenges. Supporting advocacy efforts can contribute to ongoing improvements in these areas.
6. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Handicrafts
Traditional Georgian Textiles
o Description: Georgian textiles, including handwoven rugs, carpets, and kilims, are popular items. These textiles often feature intricate patterns and vibrant colors, reflecting the rich cultural heritage of the region.
o Where to buy: You can find these items in local markets, such as the Dry Bridge Market, and specialty shops around the city.
Embroidery and Needlework
o Description: Traditional Georgian embroidery and needlework are known for their detailed designs and craftsmanship. Items such as tablecloths, napkins, and clothing with intricate embroidery make for unique souvenirs.
o Where to Buy: These can be found in craft shops and markets throughout Tbilisi.
Artwork
Georgian Paintings and Prints
o Description: Georgian artists produce a wide range of paintings and prints, often inspired by the country's landscapes, history, and culture. Contemporary and traditional art pieces are available.
o Where to Buy: Art galleries, such as the National Gallery and private galleries in the Sololaki and Vera districts, offer a variety of artworks. The Dry Bridge Market is also a good place to find affordable art.
Ceramics and Pottery
o Description: Georgian ceramics and pottery are known for their unique designs and functionality. Items such as plates, bowls, and decorative pieces are popular.
o Where to Buy: Local pottery shops and markets, including the Dry Bridge Market, are great places to find these items.
Antiques
Antique Jewelry:
o Description: Antique Georgian jewelry, often made with silver and featuring traditional designs, is highly sought after. Pieces may include rings, necklaces, and bracelets.
o Where to buy: Antique shops and the Dry Bridge Market are good places to search for these unique items.
Vintage Soviet Memorabilia:
o Description: Tbilisi has a variety of vintage Soviet-era memorabilia, including badges, medals, posters, and household items. These items offer a glimpse into the country's history during the Soviet period.
o Where to buy: The Dry Bridge Market is a popular spot for finding Soviet memorabilia.
Other Items:
Georgian Wine:
o Description: Georgia is famous for its wine, with a winemaking tradition that dates back thousands of years. Popular varieties include Saperavi (red) and Rkatsiteli (white).
o Where to buy: Wine shops, such as Vinotheca and Wine Gallery, as well as local wineries and markets, offer a wide selection of Georgian wines.
• Chacha (Georgian Brandy):
o Description: Chacha is a traditional Georgian brandy made from grape pomace. It is a strong spirit and a popular souvenir.
o Where to buy: Available in liquor stores, markets, and directly from local producers.
• Enamel Jewelry (Minankari):
o Description: Minankari is a traditional Georgian enamel art used to create beautiful jewelry pieces, such as pendants, earrings, and brooches.
o Where to buy: Jewelry shops and craft markets in Tbilisi offer a variety of Minankari items.
Recommendations
• Dry Bridge Market: This open-air market is a must-visit for those interested in antiques, artwork, and handicrafts. It offers a wide range of items, from vintage jewelry to traditional textiles.
• Local shops and galleries: Exploring local shops and galleries in districts like Sololaki, Vera, and Old Town can lead to discovering unique and high-quality items.
• Engage with artisans: Engaging with local artisans and learning about their craft can enhance the experience and provide a deeper appreciation for the items you purchase.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Understanding the driving conditions, air quality issues, social dynamics, cultural nuances, rising costs, local sentiment, quality of services, language barriers, and the importance of the expatriate community can help better prepare for life in Tbilisi.
Driving Conditions:
• Hazardous Driving: I wish I had known more about the hazardous driving conditions in Tbilisi. The aggressive and reckless driving, combined with underdeveloped road infrastructure, makes driving very stressful and prone to accidents. Taking the driving seminar organized by the CLO and Motor Pool is essential for understanding local driving habits and safety measures.
Air Quality:
• Seasonal Pollution: The air quality in Tbilisi can be quite poor, especially during the winter months due to increased use of heating systems and temperature inversions. Monitoring air quality and taking protective measures, such as using air purifiers and limiting outdoor activities on high pollution days, is important for maintaining health.
Social Isolation:
• Community Dynamics: Social isolation can be a real challenge, particularly for EFMs living in areas like Zurgovani and Digomi. The lack of nearby amenities and the difficulty of driving can make it hard to socialize and engage with the community. Joining local clubs, groups, and online forums can help mitigate this isolation.
Cultural Adjustments:
• Soviet mentality: The remnants of the Soviet mentality are still present in Tbilisi. This can manifest in various ways, such as local contractors and service providers undermining women and not taking female EFMs’ words as seriously as their male spouses. Being prepared for these cultural nuances can help manage expectations and interactions.
Cost of Living:
• Rising Costs: The cost of living has increased significantly after the Ukraine war, with a huge influx of Russians. Rent has increased by over 300%, and while groceries and household supplies are generally cheaper than in the U.S., imported goods can be more expensive. Understanding these financial dynamics can help with budgeting and financial planning.
Local Sentiment:
• Changing Attitudes: There has been a shift in local sentiment towards Americans. While we were initially told that locals love Americans, some community members have noticed a rise in anti-American sentiment. This could be due to various factors, including the current political situation and general frustrations with customer service.
Healthcare and Services:
• Quality of Services: The quality of healthcare and other services can vary. It is important to research and identify reliable healthcare providers and service professionals before moving. Having a list of recommended doctors, clinics, and emergency contacts can be very helpful.
Language Barrier:
• Language Skills: While many people in Tbilisi, especially in the younger generation and in the service industry, speak some English, having a basic understanding of Georgian or Russian can significantly enhance daily living experiences. Knowing common phrases and greetings can help with simple interactions in markets, shops, and public transportation.
Expatriate Community:
• Support Networks: The expatriate community in Tbilisi is relatively small but diverse. Engaging with this community through social events, clubs, and online forums can provide valuable support and camaraderie. Building a strong network can greatly enhance the overall experience of living in Tbilisi.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
It is hard for me to answer at this point. While there are many factors that annoy me, I do love living in Zurgovani. People in the community are wonderful, and it is important to find your own group and make an effort to get out and do things together. My children are overall happy with their school. I love my job. It definitely beats living in the DC area. Would I choose some Asia posts over Tbilisi? The answer is yes.
3. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Recommended Books:
1. "Ali and Nino" by Kurban Said:
o Description: This classic novel is set in the early 20th century and tells the love story of a Muslim Azerbaijani boy and a Christian Georgian girl. It provides a rich cultural and historical backdrop of the Caucasus region, including Tbilisi.
o Why Read It: The book offers insights into the diverse cultural and religious landscape of Tbilisi and the broader region.
2. "The Caucasus: An Introduction" by Thomas de Waal:
o Description: This book provides a comprehensive overview of the history, politics, and culture of the Caucasus region, including Georgia and its capital, Tbilisi.
o Why Read It: It is an excellent resource for understanding the complex history and current affairs of the region.
3. "Georgia: In the Mountains of Poetry" by Peter Nasmyth:
o Description: This travelogue and cultural history book explores the beauty, history, and traditions of Georgia, with a focus on Tbilisi.
o Why Read It: The book offers a deep dive into Georgian culture and the unique charm of Tbilisi.
4. "The Eighth Life (for Brilka)" by Nino Haratischvili:
o Description: This epic novel spans several generations of a Georgian family, providing a vivid portrayal of life in Georgia, including Tbilisi, throughout the 20th century.
o Why Read It: It offers a rich narrative that captures the historical and cultural essence of Tbilisi.
Recommended Movies:
1. "Tangerines" (2013):
o Description: This film is set during the Georgian-Abkhazian conflict in the early 1990s and tells the story of an Estonian man who stays behind to harvest his tangerine crop and ends up caring for two wounded soldiers from opposing sides.
o Why Watch It: The movie provides a poignant look at the impact of conflict in the region and offers a glimpse into Georgian culture and landscapes.
2. "My Happy Family" (2017):
o Description: This drama follows a middle-aged woman who decides to leave her family and live on her own, exploring themes of independence and societal expectations in contemporary Tbilisi.
o Why Watch It: The film offers a modern perspective on life in Tbilisi and the challenges faced by individuals within Georgian society.
3. "The Other Bank" (2009):
o Description: This film tells the story of a young boy who embarks on a journey to find his father amidst the backdrop of the Georgian-Abkhazian conflict.
o Why Watch It: The movie provides a touching narrative and a look at the human impact of regional conflicts, with scenes set in Tbilisi.
4. "Repentance" (1984):
o Description: Directed by Georgian filmmaker Tengiz Abuladze, this film is a powerful allegory about totalitarianism and the legacy of Stalinism in Georgia.
o Why Watch It: The film is a significant work in Georgian cinema and offers historical and cultural insights into the country's past.
These books and movies provide valuable perspectives on the history, culture, and contemporary life in Tbilisi, Georgia, and are highly recommended for those interested in learning more about the city and its people.
4. Do you have any other comments?
What I have heard from many departing families is that Tbilisi has changed a lot in the past two years, and it is stressful living here. If you do decide to bid on this post, make sure to be proactive and join various groups and activities. Otherwise, life could get difficult.
