Accra, Ghana Report of what it's like to live there - 04/06/17
Personal Experiences from Accra, Ghana
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, I have lived in three other African countries.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
San Antonio, which is a long long way away. Maybe a 24-hour trip?
3. How long have you lived here?
Two years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Mostly compound living, mostly around 2000 sq ft, not at all generous for African standards but probably enough for a family. Most compounds are 6-10 houses and most have a pool. There are some stand-alones too, which can be larger but which are mostly crumbling and decaying. Diplomatic housing is all very close to the Embassy, within a 15-minute walk or 5-minute drive.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are expensive, cheese is super expensive, fresh milk doesn't exist, UHT milk is what you have to drink. Imported fruit and veg is extremely expensive and local fruit and veg is limited to about 10 different things, which are available all time and mostly revolves around the squash family of vegetables. There are no seasons here so it is the same stuff all year long. Anything imported is expensive, and it is highly unlikely that a Westerner will want to eat Ghanaian food daily (unless you have a taste for white processed carbs).
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Bring as many groceries as you can! TetraPak soups, sauces of all sorts, couscous, tomato sauce, pesto sauce, cereal, peanut butter, laundry detergent, if you eat it or use it in the house, bring it. You will save a fortune. A lot of this stuff is found locally but is really pricey, and often an inferior brand. Pack fresh cheese in your suit case and freeze it.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
All types of food is available in Accra and all deliver. There aren't really American chain fast food restaurants, but you can get all other types.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Embassy DPO and pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Cheap and bountiful, although quite clueless for the most part. Be prepared to state the obvious over and over. People have housekeepers, drivers and nannies, although I have yet to meet a Ghanaian who really seems to love the kids she looks after.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is a small gym at the Embassy and a few others scattered around that are pretty nasty and very expensive. Accra is not a great place to be if you like to keep fit.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Nope, wouldn't touch that in West Africa. Keep credit cards in your safe, locked away until you leave the country.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English is the official language, but Ghanaians love it if you even say one word of Twi to them.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes, it would be awful. There are no accommodations for anyone with disabilities and locals view disabilities as a weakness.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are cheap, safe and bountiful, but hot and you really need to be able to direct the driver where you are going unless it is to a major landmark. Thankfully, armed with a data plan on your phone and Google maps this should not be a problem!
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
As big and monstrous an SUV as you can find. Potholes and sewage ditches are on every road and any other car will have problems.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
There are a few choices for internet available. All are hit and miss and not that fast. They will cut you off for no reason, and never refund your money so beware.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
There are a few choices, Vodafone and MTN seem to be the most popular and are very cheap, pay as you go. Data is also extremely inexpensive.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Don't know, but very much doubt it. Ghanaians are generally terrified of dogs and will happily beat them. Animals have no rights in Ghana.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are some jobs available at the Embassy. Most people who want a job find one. Locally there is not much unless you want to volunteer at the numerous places needing help.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Thousands, you name it, you can do it!
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business or business casual.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
No, Accra is super safe.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Malaria, yellow fever, HIV and AIDS, and if you need any kind of surgery you better get ready to jump on a plane. Pretty much any kind of medical condition will call for a medical evacuation.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Dood when no one is burning trash, which is rare. December-January is dusty season and the Sahara sands blow in and cover everything.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Bring your own epi pen and Allegra? Peanuts are in all the local food so if you have a peanut allergy don't eat local.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Extremely hot and very very humid all year long (about 100 degrees every day, maybe cooling to 95 at night), December to January it is slightly less humid. Make no mistake, every single day is hot and sweaty.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Lincoln is the best one available, I would rate it as barely OK, they tend to have all their student shows in the evening at 6pm in the open air gym at prime mosquito time, so it really loses any cool points from me for that. Many of the teachers are local Ghanaians, with about 50% American or Western teachers. In my experience, the school's communication with parents is terrible.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
They have the standard services, it is not too bad if your kid has a run of the mill issue i.e.: dyslexic, ADHD etc, but anything more serious and they probably can't help.
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Lincoln has a plethora of after school activities, your child will certainly find something to suit them. Soccer is huge here.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
It is pretty large. There is a large diplomatic community plus a large gold mining community, oil and gas and textiles. Generally most expats make the best of it. You do find the odd person who loves Ghana.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Make your own fun. Compound parties, grab some friends and head to the beach, dinner parties, there are night clubs and restaurants to visit too.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It is horrible for expat singles: there are very few of them. Couples and families seem to have more options.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
No, that is illegal and they publicly flog gay people.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Not really, other than hating Nigerians.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Trips out to the west of Ghana to visit Stilt Villages and beach trips. Ghana is ill-equipped for tourists, especially tourists who would like access to air conditioning or a comfortable bed. If you are into camping in hot weather, Ghana travel and tourism will be much easier for you.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Makkola Market (if you don't mind haggling and getting sweaty). One of the many beach bars for a beer at sunset, Cape Coast slave forts, local markets, fantasy coffin makers.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Not really a great shopping post, but there is fabulous African wax print fabric for cheap, fake and genuine antiques, local arts and crafts, beads.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
You don't need to waste time sitting in the steam room, just take a walk outside.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Just how hot and humid it would be every day. How every conversation with a local will likely end up with an argument. That is exhausting.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Hell no!
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expectations that:
anything will happen on time
that you can get your grocery shopping for the week done in 8 hours
that you will be able to enjoy traveling to cool places in West Africa easily
you won't sweat through your clothes within five minutes of being outside
4. But don't forget your:
REI sweat-wicking clothing, sunglasses, sunscreen, and DEET bug spray.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
"An African City" is fun to watch on youtube.
