Accra, Ghana Report of what it's like to live there - 08/04/17
Personal Experiences from Accra, Ghana
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. I've also lived in Japan and Germany.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
I came from Northern Virginia. I flew from DC to Brussels (7.5 hours) and then from Brussels to Accra (6.5 hours). There was about a three-hour layover between flights.
3. How long have you lived here?
Only a month so far
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
I live in a large five-bedroom house (not detached) on a compound. It's about a 35-minute walk from the embassy. Most embassy housing is closer.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can find almost anything you're looking for here, but be prepared to pay for the name brand items. If you're willing to take your chances on the local or regional products, you can live quite cheaply. If you insist on American or European products, expect them to cost two or three times as much.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
I wish I had brought more cleaning supplies, especially disinfecting wipes (like Clorox wipes). You can find cleaning supplies here, but they are very expensive or of inferior quality.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
The only American restaurants I've seen are KFC and Pizza Hut. I may have seen a Subway and a McDonald's around here, but I'm not sure. There are some nice restaurants in the embassy area that sell Indian, Mediterranean, Chinese, and Thai food. There is also a buffalo wing restaurant nearby.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
This is a tropical location. There are lots of ants, spiders, roaches, mosquitoes, and other bugs. The ants are pretty stubborn.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
You can mail and receive letters and packages at the post office at the embassy. Mail to the US takes 2-3 weeks to arrive, so plan accordingly.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is available and cheap. But your mileage may vary in terms of reliability. I've heard of hired help getting fired for stealing, for example. Be smart when interviewing and think about whether you want a live-in helper or someone to just come to your house twice a week or so. You can hire a nanny, a cook, a gardener, a driver, a housekeeper, or someone who can perform several of these tasks.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is a gym, a pool, and a basketball court on the embassy grounds.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I've used my credit card at the bigger supermarkets and merchants at the shopping malls with no problem. But this is primarily a cash country. I would not take my chances with an ATM unless it's on the embassy grounds.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
English is the official language of Ghana, so I'd imagine it's easy to find an English-language religious service.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English is widely spoken, but it can be hard to understand at times because of their accent. Locals speak Twi, Ewe, Fanti, and Ga. You don't need to know those languages for your survival, but it can really help make a good impression if you can say a few words.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
This is not a city that is friendly towards people with physical disabilities. I haven't seen many handicapped access ramps. Even sidewalks are hard to come by.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
There are lots of taxis here, but they are often in poor mechanical condition with broken seatbelts, no air conditioning, or broken windows. One cab I was in had a broken speedometer. You also have to negotiate the price beforehand. There aren't any trains. I've seen buses, but I would not recommend using them unless you are really adventurous.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Bring something that you wouldn't mind getting dinged or dirty. The roads are not so good in a lot of places with huge potholes and open ditches on the side of the road. There don't seem to be any rules concerning traffic, so drive defensively and expect your car to get dented or scratched.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
There is internet service, but it's not fast and it's not reliable. You can get unlimited 3G service or pay-as-you-go 4G service. The wireless router's signal in my house doesn't cover all the bedrooms.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
No recommendations. I still have my US phone and simply receive texts while I'm connected to my wifi at home. The three main phone companies here seem to be Airtel, MTN, and Vodafone.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
This is not really a pet-friendly country. There are a few stray dogs walking around.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Since there's a hiring freeze, no spouses are working at the embassy unless they were working before the freeze started.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
I have no idea, but I'd imagine there are lots of opportunities.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
A dress shirt and tie for men at the embassy, but a jacket is not necessary. Women can wear a blouse--a business suit is overkill. Every Friday at the embassy we can wear local Ghanaian clothes.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There is some street crime involving people on bikes or motorcycles snatching smartphones or purses from people walking. Just keep your street smarts and you should be fine. Stay away from places where there aren't a lot of people walking around and avoid walking around by yourself at night.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
There's a lot of air pollution and trash on the roads here. Also be advised that you can't drink the tap water. There are open ditches and open sewers too. Take your malaria meds regularly.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The Ghanaians often burn trash and the air can smell like manure depending on the way the wind is blowing. If you have strong allergies, think twice before coming here.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Peanuts (ground nuts) are in a lot of the foods here and the locals don't seem that concerned about food allergens. Keep your Epi-pen handy or just cook at home.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Ghana is near the equator, so it gets dark around the same time all year round--about 6:00 pm. There is also no winter here--maybe the coldest it gets is the upper 60s F (about 20C).
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It's hot and humid or warm and humid almost every day. You don't need a jacket. Maybe you'd want one long-sleeve shirt because of air conditioning, but it's summertime all year round here. If it's cloudy and rainy, it can be pleasantly mild, but never really cool.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Most embassy kids go to Lincoln Community School, but there's also Ghana International School and one other Christian-based school. The embassy provides a shuttle bus for these three schools.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Lincoln seems to have a lot of extracurriculars, including music and sports.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
There are a few Westerners here affiliated with the government. I've seen a few people from the Middle East and a conspicuous Chinese population here.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
I guess people go to the local expat bars or hang out with other embassy personnel.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's probably not a good city for anyone who does not have their own transportation. It can get frustrating walking everywhere. Families should be content with their spacious living quarters and the swimming pools and other families on the housing compounds. Single people will need transportation to go to the restaurants and clubs.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I wouldn't know. But if there is an LGBT scene here, it's very underground.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There is a sizable Muslim minority here, but I haven't noticed any discrimination.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Purchasing fruits and vegetables from the roadside vendors has been a lot of fun.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There's the Accra Mall, the Marina Mall, the marketplaces in Osu, the slave castle, and the embassy-sponsored trips.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
You can buy beautiful wood carvings and fabrics that can be woven into clothing.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It can be quite cheap, but only if you're willing to forego a lot of Western brands and conveniences.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
How polluted it is and how much litter there is on the side of the road.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I would. Ghana is a beautiful country. You need to be smart about what you eat and where you walk, but the Ghanaians are friendly and jovial. I've had a great experience.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expectations that living here is anything like living in the US or any other first-world country. Things are simply different here. Oh, and don't bother with any coats or jackets.
4. But don't forget your:
Mosquito repellent, anti-malarial drugs, first aid kits, and walking shoes!
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Do you have any other comments?
If you're in the Foreign Service, Accra and Dakar are probably the two nicest posts in West Africa. You can have a lot of fun here and save a lot of money. Just remember that this is a country where a lot of people will do anything (and I do mean anything) in order to survive, even if that means lying to make a buck. Great country though.
