Accra, Ghana Report of what it's like to live there - 04/18/18
Personal Experiences from Accra, Ghana
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, we've previously served in East Africa.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Virginia, USA. Fly to post via Europe from the Washington, DC, area.
3. How long have you lived here?
8 months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing here is a mix of multi-house compounds and standalones, leaning more toward multi-house compounds. Houses range from 3-4 bedrooms and usually, multiple bathrooms. I've heard complaints from others here that housing isn't big enough "for Africa" but I find our house quite comfortable. All houses are within a 10 minute drive of the Embassy, which is a huge plus.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Availability is inconsistent (for example, you might find something one week and not the other), and groceries/food can vary from affordable to very expensive. For example, pineapples are consistently about 50 cents each, but broccoli is about $20 a head. Certain vegetables are always available, such as carrots, but you might get bored. US-branded products are much more expensive (shredded cheese, etc). Alcohol is widely available and not much more expensive than the US, which was surprising.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
We shipped a lot of items in our consumables which was great. So far I haven't encountered anything I wish we'd shipped and hadn't. Some things I wish I'd purchased in larger quantities that are personal snack preferences (for example, you can't really buy bags of chips here, so I wish I'd brought endless tortilla chips).
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Delivery is super easy and can be done via app from almost every restaurant in the area. There are a few restaurants very popular with expats, such as pizza places, etc. The restaurant scene isn't as varied here as it was at our last post, but there are some good ones. Prices can seem expensive for here, but in reality you can eat at a very nice restaurant in the neighborhood near the Embassy and get lobster pasta for less than $20.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Bugs are common here, although I don't hear often of a lot in houses, and the embassy comes quickly if you notice bugs inside (flies, ants, etc).
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We have DPO and pouch in Accra. Packages tend to arrive more quickly than mail, and mailing packages back to the US can have them arrive Stateside anywhere from 1-4 weeks after shipping. DPO arrival here is usually 7-14 days within ordering.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Bountiful and very inexpensive. We have a nanny/housekeeper and a gardener. Our nanny/housekeeper is a godsend and worked for 2 embassy families before us.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is a small gym on the embassy grounds that isn't official, so it doesn't have bathrooms or a shower. So I only work out after work when I don't mind if I'm sweaty or disgusting. Many people take tennis lessons at the embassy, or partake in bootcamp classes at post. Same with yoga. I know there are some Crossfit style gyms, but I don't know how much they cost. The embassy gym is adequate (6+ treadmills and a few ellipticals/bikes, free weights and some weight machines).
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I generally prefer to operate in a cash economy in Africa. There are ATMs but I would not use them unless it was an emergency. There is an ATM at the embassy that many people use. We have used a credit card for a hotel stay, but nothing else while here. The embassy cashier can cash checks so you have local currency.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I think many religious services are in English, since it is a national language here.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None, although it is nice to try and learn a bit of Twi or Gaa.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes, there are rarely sidewalks and, in fact, there are deep ditches on the side of the road for drainage.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are affordable, but not very well-maintained. RSO recommends negotiating a price before getting in and making sure your window can go up and your door can lock. Tro-tros are multi-person vans that are common with locals, but not particularly safe or recommended.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
I recommend a small SUV or larger (like a CRV and up). A CRV should be fine. Some of the roads have potholes and it's good to have some clearance on your vehicle. That being said, a very large car would have a hard time navigating small parking garages, narrow streets, etc.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
We got internet within days of arrival, set up by the embassy. Unlimited 3G internet is about $50 a month, so that's pretty cheap. We find it pretty reliable, without going out too often at our house. We use it for streaming TV and it works mostly fine.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Mobile phones are easy to buy, as are SIM cards and air time. People here use pay as you go top ups. MTN and Vodafone are both popular.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
The embassy provided us the names of a couple of veterinarians, but we haven't had to use one yet. Lots of embassy folks have pets (cats, dogs, rabbits). Bringing our pet in was relatively easy - GSO had a sheet of exactly what needed to be done. There was no quarantine.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Here in the embassy most non-embassy spouses do not work because there is little work at the embassy. I don't know any who work on the local economy, but I am sure there are some.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Endless opportunities with orphanages, street children, churches, etc.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Work is on the more casual side of business. Public is casual. Formal dress is only required occasionally at fancy events.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Ghana is a critical crime post, but most crime can be mitigated by using personal security protocols and paying attention to your environment. So this would mean driving with your doors locked and windows up, locking your house doors at night (you'd be surprised that people don't!), etc.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Malaria is critical here, so everyone should take anti-malarials. I think there are some medical clinics that the embassy recommends although we have not yet had to use them.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
I'd say it's largely fine, except for during Harmattan in December/January when the air is VERY hazy with sand. Lots of folks end up with stuffy heads/dry throats at the beginning of Harmattan before adjusting. I would imagine those with asthma would find that time of year difficult.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Ground nuts (peanuts) are very popular in food here. If you were to serve in Ghana and have a peanut allergy I would be cautious about eating out and bring an EpiPen at all times.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
None that I know of.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
VERY HOT AND HUMID all year. Period.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are a couple international elementary and secondary schools, of varying quality from what I hear from those who send their children there. The main school, Lincoln, is quite far from the embassy neighborhood and kids are on the bus for a long time.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I have a neurotypical child, so I'm unqualified to speak to this topic although I know there are families here with children with special needs.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are a few really great Montessori schools here for children that are world-class. Those run about $8,000 a year, which is much much cheaper than DC. Most people send their children to Little Explorers or Owls Nest. Nannies are common for needed after care and they are affordable. We have experience with one of these schools and can't say enough good things about it. These schools go through 1st grade too and are close to the embassy.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Lots of children take swim lessons and ballet and tennis. I think there are many sports through Lincoln, but don't know first hand.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
I don't know. There are a good number of Westerners. Their morale depends on how much they rely on the local economy (aka, don't have DPO) and how long they have lived here.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
I wish more people socialized here. There are some restaurants, and I believe people will gather at homes.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I'm not single so I don't know. I think most of the people posted here who find Ghana most comfortable are families with young children.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I would guess it might be difficult since Ghana is a very religious and more conservative place, but I do not know firsthand.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Not that I know. Ghana has issues among Ghanaians with misogyny.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Our child has made excellent friends and really excelled in her school. We've enjoyed some beach trips.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Ghana is very sleepy. You can drive 90 minutes out of town to go to the beach, and that's about it.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Ghana is a great post for colorful and plentiful Ankara/wax fabric. You can have clothes made easily and inexpensively. Baskets are also beautiful here and affordable.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It's warm, housing is close to the embassy, and Ghanaians are very friendly.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
How little there would be to do on the weekends and how expensive/difficult it was to fly out of Ghana to other places of interest, even Europe.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I think so, but would have come in with a greater understanding of the availability of a social life/travel.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter/fall/clothes for moderately chilly weather.
4. But don't forget your:
SUNSCREEN, summer clothes, and all your favorite snacks.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Homegoing is a great novel set in Ghana by Yaa Gyasi. It's truly beautiful.
