Accra, Ghana Report of what it's like to live there - 08/26/24
Personal Experiences from Accra, Ghana
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
20 years in various places, ranging from low to high income countries in Asia, Europe and places in between.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Direct flights to DC and NY, plus several European capitols (Paris, London, etc), so getting here is pretty easy (albeit expensive).
3. What years did you live here?
2023 plus minus.
4. How long have you lived here?
Three year tour.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
There are very few standalone houses, most are row houses on complexes. The amount of interior square footage is good overall but there is very little green space. Only one compound I know of has a communal "yard" where kids can kick a soccer ball or sit under a tree - so expect a ton of concrete. No parks, playgrounds or open grassy areas in Cantonments either, except for the embassy compound. Housing is close to the Embassy but far from the main international school (LCS). Kids are on the bus for 40-60 minutes each direction. Buses are provided.
Maintenance requests can be challenging. In previous posts, we've filed maintenance requests maybe once every 3-6 months. Here we sometimes are filing several within a week, so our house is a revolving door of workers. Most have to deal with pests but we haven't found it to be so bad (cockroaches, mosquitoes, lizards, etc). There was a house fire caused by an AC unit once while its occupant was on vacation.
Another annoyance is noise. The houses are not well insulated, or perhaps it's thinness of windows? We hear the music/bass from nearby restaurants/clubs or the du Bois center pretty much every night, which is frustrating.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Grocery stores are generally expensive and stock is unpredictable. You have to be flexible with your shopping list. There are a couple larger chains but require a drive outside the Cantonments area. Anything western is 2-3x the US price. A small box of cereal for over $10, flour from the UK $7/bag (local stuff can be buggy), raspberries and asparagus, we don't even bother. When we travel outside the country, we always bring back frozen meat and other food items. To be clear, most things exist here, they're just pricey. Some tropical fruits, staple vegetables and eggs are pretty affordable year round. We got to a reasonable food budget by making a lot of things from scratch, less meat, more beans and seafood extremely rarely.
Visiting the local markets (Makola, Nima, etc) is possible, but it's a half day affair in blazing heat and you'll walk 45 minutes trying to find what you need. And then the seller will see you're a foreigner and charge you the same price as the grocery store because you don't know how to bargain.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
I would absolutely max out consumables if you are budget conscious. You need to ship the obvious stuff (chocolate chips, gluten free flour, canned tuna, shampoo, sunscreen) but I wish I would have shipped the non-obvious stuff (cooking oil, all purpose flour, bulk sugar and rice, dish detergent, hand soap, floor cleaner) because the local brands are poor value/quality and imported brands are pricey. I ship a significant amount to DPO and have found many local vendors to fill in the gaps, but it took a while.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Many local restaurant options that are good. We had a lot of stomach bugs in the first six months but they became less frequent after the first year. Dominoes, Burger King and KFC are some of the American chains and there are several good Indian, pizza and other restaurant delivery options. Local food (from street vendors) should be avoided - basic food safety and hygiene is next to non-existent. Many expats allocate their take-out budget for a private cook.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Unusual? Perhaps, but expected. You're in the jungle. Unless you're have a newly built house, expect ants, flies, geckos, mosquitoes, cockroaches, etc. I had an ant infestation both in my kitchen and an upstairs bedroom just today, even with a FT housekeeper.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO like every other post we've been at, with the same issues/concerns. Works fine, and the mail room staff here are very friendly.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Inexpensive and hard working but require a lot of oversight. Definitely hire your staff off the recommendation of another expat and double the amount of working hours you think you'll need. Things happen on Africa time and expect a lot of miscommunication, broken items, burned food, etc. Current rates for a FT staff person runs about $200/month. Babysitting or overtime, around $3-5 USD/hour. It's also standard to provide medical expense reimbursement, maternity leave, a 13th month salary, etc.
3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
Safe enough but absolutely not fun. No sidewalks, open sewage, dust, potholes, pollution and erratic drivers. Haven't used my bike once since we've been here (was an avid bike commuter before). Hiking is possible if you're ready to organize it but you need a guide and it's not close by. There aren't any woods or parks nearby to jog or walk in, that I know of.
4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Many options. Some embassy-led workout groups for adults and kids, a private gym across from the Embassy compound, yoga practitioners, tennis instructors, horseback riding, etc. Very affordable. A private tennis lesson, for example, will run you $10-15 USD. The only negative is the air quality. Dec-Feb you really don't want to be outside, so your options are much more limited. This is definitely not the post for avid runners, running and walking outside is dreadful - maybe bring a treadmill?
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
We go through a lot of cash between buying groceries at roadside stands, paying staff, paying for lessons, etc. I've used local ATMs a couple times but mostly the embassy cashier. Credit cards are accepted at most big restaurants and grocery stores. People do experience credit card fraud at gas stations frequently.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None. English speaking but locals quickly switch to Twi or another language amongst themselves.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Absolutely. I would not recommend for someone with disabilities
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are inexpensive and available via uber and maybe some others. Do not recommend public transport (trotro).
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
One that can handle big potholes and careless drivers. I would never bring a new car, it will definitely get scratched. If it can handle off-roading, even better - you'll find unpaved roads even within city limits. When it rains, the city will flood and roads will be impassable. Nothing too wide, either - you have to share the road with pedestrians, bicyclists, and hawkers who don't have sidewalks to use.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet was set up before we arrived. It isn't high speed but it is adequate for normal things like streaming Netflix, etc. Those that work from home often have to go on hotspot or buy a booster to get enough signal for conference calls.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Local provider and it's fine.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Some telecommute, some work at embassy - normal mix. Pretty big embassy, there are opportunities for EFMs here.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Tons, I imagine.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
As expected.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Compounds are guarded 24/7, razor wire, etc. but embassy houses do get broken into and theft happens pretty often.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Malaria, dengue, mpox are among the current warnings. Yellow fever and a variety of vaccines required before arrival. Many medical conditions require medical evacuation, locally they can only handle the basic stuff. The medical unit at the embassy is very busy and do a lot since local services are minimal.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Very poor air quality during Harmattan season (Dec - Feb), AQI upwards of 180. Otherwise generally muggy, polluted and unpleasant. Lots of burning garbage.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Food allergies should be fine, environmental allergies (asthma, etc) might have a problem.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
It's a stressful place to live, which weighs on people.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot, humid, polluted. During peak harmattan we barely leave the house, for example we pull our kids from sports. This past year there was a playdate in the embassy atrium for little kids over the weekend since no one wanted to be outside.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
It's fine - but we had high expectations for LCS based on other Talesmag reports and have therefore been disappointed. There is a lot of Youtube played for kids in lower elementary, which is weird and unnecessary, and our kids are bored despite repeatedly requesting the teachers challenge them.
The first set of school marks (at least for elementary) are distributed in February, instead of quarterly, leaving little room for tracking progress. Very little is done on paper and sent home. Kids are not monitored very well (we have had issues with bullying and unmonitored internet use), which is in line with the hands-off parenting style and propensity for chaos that seems common here. Communication from school is frenetic - there are multiple platforms to monitor and information is distributed often very late, so it's easy to miss important information. Several families have opted to send their high schoolers to boarding school instead of stay at LCS.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are a few Western style preschools, just do a thorough inspection upon arrival instead of signing up in advance. We regretted our decision to choose Little Explorers, for example. Most expats assume that because they're the most expensive and have the best marketing, they are the best, but we did not have a good experience. Their style of Montessori seems very rigid and does not make for a warm, inclusive environment. In our opinion, the headmaster is severe and we witnessed blatant lying to parents from teachers (e.g. child spends day crying, parents are told they had a great day), perhaps in an effort to uphold this perfect vision.
LCS has a very good pre-primary program (ECC), if you're willing to do the drive. Beanstalk, Owls Nest and Safari are other options. Safari is the only facility with full daycare hours. All the other preschools let out sometime in the early afternoon so if you work, you have to organize aftercare.
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Private tutors are plentiful (music, swim, etc) but organized team sports for elementary schoolers are hard to find. LCS has a wide variety of after school activities but many of them are more like babysitting than real sporting activities, except for the swim team, which seems to be pretty serious.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Expat community is large, people stick together, overall very friendly.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
AEA (American Embassy Association) club compound has a cafe/bar, playground and commissary, so this ends up being the main place where American families hang out. No compounds have playgrounds, so it's where the nannies take the kids to hang out during the week after school. There are events organized by the Community Liaison Office (CLO) or American Embassy Association (AEA) (food trucks, parties, other events) after work and on weekends. Commissary prices are high (a bag of Tostitos for $11) but it's nice to have stuff when you want it.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Good for families who want hired help but kids can't do any sort of socializing on their own (go to a neighboring compound, walk the dog, etc) without supervision. Definitely a sheltered life here. It's also surprisingly hard to get out into nature, which affects our mental health on weekends.
There is no outlet for taking a quick hike in the woods and walking to a coffee shop isn't too pleasant. The beach is close but very polluted and full of hawkers. If you're motivated, you'll make it happen, but know that there's a barrier to entry. I went to one of the more highly reviewed beach resorts several hours away and kept pulling broken glass from the shoreline so that my kids wouldn't step on it.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
We've made friends with locals at every post we've lived at, except here. Supposedly Ghanaians are very friendly but I don't think that kindness is extended to expats (unless you're paying them a salary). If we lived in a village or as a part of the local community we'd eventually be welcomed but our red plates and living in Cantonments puts a target on our backs for scams and theft. The few times I've tried to befriend our kids schoolmates' parents, the relationship fails or is never reciprocated - seems we don't have anything to offer their lavish lifestyle.
Caveat - no direct experience with FSO/FSN interactions.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Based on recent legislation, Ghanaians aren't LGBT friendly but I'm not sure if/how that affects quality of life.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes, locally, but doesn't affect most people.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Come with low expectations and you'll do great. Some interior trips have been fine but as expected, local hotels are either bare bones or way overpriced. Beaches are littered with trash, mosquitoes are plentiful, villages aren't accessible without a guide showing you around and people gawking at you, the local market is interesting but you know you're being charged 10x the local rate, you go to the trail head to hike to a waterfall and have to pay six different people tip money, etc. Travel to neighboring countries is also not easy. You can fly to Europe for the same price as a weekend spent in Lome after considering hotels, visas, clean food and water, etc. Sao Tome is a beautiful island and worthwhile trip but come prepared for challenging road conditions.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Taking a driver and going to places like Cape Coast, Akosombo or pretty much anywhere outside Accra is always interesting. Kempinski has a good spa. There are several restaurants here that we truly enjoy.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
If you can bargain and brave the local art market, or you're willing to pay an expat price then you can get some interesting wood carvings, masks, etc.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Affordable golf, tennis, household help. Seeing the nature and experiencing the local culture/ways of life (even if you're not really welcomed in) is still a very valuable experience. Having cultural and geographical context for understanding the slave trade and colonialism.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
We expected all the nonsense but were surprised it wasn't a money saving post.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Probably not
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Cold weather clothing, new car, bicycle.
4. But don't forget your:
Cash and a zen attitude.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Homegoing
